Slim Mat

The valve seats should be ok, especially if you are trying to save a few quid. You did say that this head is just for the mean time. Not sure about those guides though, I wouldn't trust them. Better off at least getting them checked by someone who knows. The other thing is, if you get some flash ones now, you can always reuse them in the new head build up in the future. Best bet would be to shop around online and do some research on the guide you want, or ask local workshops what they use and get quotes off them.

They should just fix it for you. They would have had to pull the gearbox out to do the job and if the clutch wasn't aligned properly the gbox input shaft wouldn't have gone back in easily. They did the job, they should fix it. More likely to be a detent issue. Just don't go in there with a full head of steam, workshops hate when know-it-all customers come in and demand shit. It could be a few different things.

Cheers Mark If we could get some spring rate figures that would be really helpful blukie.

Does anyone one know what these Superstreets are like to ride on: hard or soft etc? I have a set of Teins at the moment(non adjustable) and they are way to hard, would these be similar?

I reckon you could get that You can usually do it on standard engine

Sick, nice work guys Like your thinking - already have wicked engine lined up for next year, no time restraints, we'll get there!

Hey MRDeanos, I reckon you could probably do it. It would easily mount in the same position in the centre of the dash tower. You would just have to move something like a cd player or the A/C controls to fit them in. The wiring might be a little tricky, but I think it would be just like wiring up a cd player, you would need to find a good ign "ON" power wire to tap into(make sure it's not running something too important and that it is 12V), a good earth point, then it would just be a matter of tracking down all the signal wires from the sensors, oil temp, MAP sensor(boost) and charge rate and hooking them up to the right gauges. Shouldn't matter which model you get the gauges out of either. I don't know what the gts-t's have in the dash tower, but I imagine if they don't have gauges already, then there is probably a coin holder or tray there instead, might be able to move that.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t170167.html Have a read there Dan. I was wondering about something similar.

Stage 2 camshafts will definitely help make more power for the same amount of boost. Not entirely sure what it will do for the driveability or response though. Should make more of the torque in the mid to higher rpm band, may reduce torque at low revs, so you will have to rev it more to take off, won't cruise as easily.

Hi Dave, I suppose it really depends on how much power you want to make. Most people would probably agree that the standard cam shafts in the RB26 will flow enough to allow for 500hp, good example at www.xspeed.com. Especially if you are running 20psi. Some people are getting that sort of power with less boost, because the turbos flow more. have to go for now, might add some shit later

Hi Zilla, What's wrong with yours? How many do you need?

Hi James Try this link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=170167&hl= I asked a similar question myself Pretty sure you will need to remap the ecu or install an aftermarket jobbie and map that.

Agreed, pretty sure only the diameters have to be the same. I am running 265/35R18's at the moment, not sure about rim dimensions. The rear rims do have a different offset to my fronts, they appear more dished(stick out further) and I am not having any issues.

Start with checking the fuses, replace any that are blown

Hi all, Alright here is the problem: vehicle R32 GT-R Occasionally the HICAS light blinks on for a second or two and the steering becomes hard only while the light is on, steering goes back to normal and light goes off. Recently this has been occuring more with some instances of the light staying on consistently and blinking off for a fraction of a second, while at the same time a "knock knock knock" can be heard. The steering will pulsate with the same frequency as the knock, which is particularly noticable while turning as the steering wheel rocks back and forth. Conditions: Hot or cold running - P/S fluid hot or cold Recently, under acceleration Recently, when turning the headlights on to low or high beam When turning-in When going over a bump, only occasionally/hard bumps Recently even while idling doing nothing Any speeds Observations: P/S fluid is between the add and full marks, recently topped up, does not appear or smell burnt P/S pump belt is tight with no wear marks from slipping, can not hear squealling Can feel the knock when holding on to a hose from HICAS valve body which runs to the P/S fluid cooler lines in front of the radiator Tyres are 265's Really need some help on this as it is becoming dangerous. No one around here knows about these systems(HICAS), but I do suspect something more common.

Try Nengun Performance www.nengun.com Make sure that you order early enough though since they are based in Japan and they need to send it to you. Goodluck

If it is running the rear defogger it would have a large fuse. Essentially the defogger is just a big resistor that heats up to heat the window which will draw a lot of current.

IGN just means that that function only operates when the key is "ON". It's on the ignition circuit

Hi everyone, Looking for an Apexi Power FC to suit R32 GT-R. Require hand controller, manuals box etc would be good. Preferrably near new condition, will definately look at second hand though.

Check the run out on the disks first If the CV's are worn you should be able to rock the wheel back and forth with out the driveshaft rotating. However if it were the case that they were loading up as you put it, wouldn't it vibrate under acceleration aswell? What sort of vibration is it? Back and forth pulse or sideways vibe? Shake? Hold on to the gear stick when applying the brakes, if it shakes with the same rythum it could be rear brake related. Or if it's front you should feel it through the steering wheel. If it were a driveshaft it would vibrate all the time, not just under braking and you probably wouldn't be able to get to 160. I still think something in the brakes.

LoL Lance, Nah, don't want to spend more than that this year. That's just a start. Get the most out the standard engine. I really would like some turbos and such.........but you know how it goes. Esperance is pretty good at the moment, got quite a few blokes coming out of the woodwork now that I have got THE GT-R, starting to get them all together and go out for power cruises. Few more skyliners and other modified vehiculars. As for the topic: Power FC for the win. So many other people are using it and have such good results, plus you can't beat the plug in ability and the support for it out there, heaps of workshops will be able to tune it. The adjustable pulleys are good for fine tuning the engine - ever heard of freak engines that just go! This should help get closer to that. Also good for adjusting your rev range properties on more modified cars. Best results will probably be obtained when you tune the cams and PFC together at the same time to suit each other.

Freaky wierd man I am doing the same thing: Power FC and Adj Cam pulleys.............on an R32 GT-R no time to say more, will add later.

When you fitted the Just Jap G4 kit, did it include the brake disks? When disks get warped they will cause a shudder through the car under braking. It's probably not very bad since you can only notice it at high speeds.

How much do you want for the Adjustable pullies?

I think higher is ok.