GTS_Retro

I can recommend Tonsley Crash Repair on South Rd StMarys, they are happy to track down hard to find import stuff to do the job properly. They found 1st series Hr31 tailights from japan for my job

yellow pages! just phone around for quotes, easy.

I bought the same one, find you have to flick thru most pages to find what you need, sometimes i miss it and have to look thru a few times.lol got it for $40 from memory. has a maroon s2 r31 on the front. i wouldnt mind having a look at the 25 one, i need spec on head for when i pull it apart. i could scan the pages you need and PDF them if you want to do a swap?

Any idea on what kw it made?

Well my initial plan was to go turbo i have the 25mani and turbo. but i just wanted the simplicity of NA. I thought 160kw more guts from down low and throttle responce would still make some fun in the 31. Im still open to beeing talked into turbo.. So what ecu would people reccomend to use as i have just read that the 33 can not be retuned,, is that correct?

cheers buddy, thinking now that i might go two tone. bottom half black to match wheels. also inhance the old school look.

Gonna run standard R33 ECU and on 98RON petrol. Im using; RB25DET head, RB30e Block, RB30e Pistons. This should give an approx CR of 8.3-1 Just not sure on head gasket, will prob use a RB30 I will have the block shaved to Xmm to increase CR. My question is how many Xmm to shave to increase CR to a good level for NA. taking into account pump fuel and standard ECU?

Old pic. only change is ride height and front spoiler.

What would a more realistic CR for a NA be? I was thinking of leaving the VVL head functional. I reasearched the 26 ITB set up it would be definatly the top choice, however i would like to get the engine together then look at more development in the future. for now sticking with a custom plenum and single TB.

Just a quick intro on my ride http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hr31-Gts-t228525.html I have been reading thru this section and partly thru the (167pages of the r33 rb25-30) thread for a few weeks, I have been inspired to do something different with my car. At home in the garage I have a R33 S2 RB25DET and a R31 S3 Rb30E I want to build a 25-30 NA, to plonk into the HR31. I need some recommendations on building a high compression NA hybrid. What I plan for the block so far, full strip down clean etc. hone, new big end bearings main bearings, if in good condition re use rods, new bolts etc. but unsure weather to use rb30 pistons, balance crank. Basically give the block a freshen up. Need some advise on combination of OEM pistons to use with head gasket to get a high CR (9:1 or close?) for throttle response, head shaved etc. There seems to be so much wealth of knowledge and experience here any help or tips is much appreciated.

The story so far… I currently own an 86 Hr31 coupe, sporting a RB20DET NICS. Purchased back in 05. The poor old NICS is a solid reliable runner, I couldn’t fault this engine. Reliability was a major factor for me and I found this engine was great, Serviced myself. I stood steadfast that it would be maintained un modified. I loved the car for what it was, even choked by the tiny turbo. Now that my daily driver is a mighty corolla, the Skyline is enjoying retirement and some needed surgery. The surgery; Turf the old and in with the hybrid Rb25/30, Ok so this is what I have so far 1 x Rb25DET out of a S2 R33 1996 1 X Rb30e out of a S3 R31 1990 What I had envisioned was to run the Rb25-30 NA. What I want is more torque, throttle response and a soundtrack from the NA out the back! Reasons for not going turbo, $$$$$$ and unusable power for a car that doesn’t hit the track, drift or drag.

There would be some serios number crunching to determine runner lenght then, if they are tuned specificaly to head setup. Definatly a job for profesionals. Ive seen the video mentioned white 32 in japan. girl tuner, she used http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/2000_inst.html ITB's adapted to her RB24de. runner lenght looked really short in the video, might be because of the adaption she made, however from memory it only liked revs above 5000 from memory.

I have oftern though about doing something alike, but 25/30 with ITB. Just wondering how do you calculate runner length? is it base on throttle diamiter.

Hi all, its time to rebuild my rack, the dust boots are full of fluid. I am having the rack professional rebuilt. However I have heard the R31 rack has an inherent leaking problem, have the rack rebuilt and in no time it springs a leak. Apparently the rack can be modified so this dose not happen again. Anyone able to tell me what is modified so i can have the same changes made to my rack. cheers

nice bonet, 2 pac on the bonnet locks black. they are the only feature letting ito down. 2 pac its a lot more resistant to wear.

I am after old school datsun skyline C210/2110 in SA, Please let me know of any for sale or if you have one dieing in a back yard? cheers

give it a full rub back and do a full undercoat. more preperation now will help, it would suck to spend time and money and have a shit finish!

i found some paint in plastic bottles from cheap as chips "discount store" its for painting fake lead light windows. i used it on my rear number plate light so it glows green. i havnt had any problem with it heating up and catching on fire. check local craft stores

not to hard to remove the ripples from a bad mould. , however some suppliers of aero parts say you are purchasing original items however they are copies hence the ripples from remoulding a product. Like the stuff used to see here in adelaide in shop windows, practically see thru.

Give the original paint a sand back nothing too agressive, Primer then you will be able to see any dents or ripples from poor moulding or thin Gell coat. Also the 1k prime will fill small hairline cracks and sanding marks, use a light weight plastic bog that wont take much work with the paper to shape. Ive found that using a really hard bog ive been working my guts out trying to shape it and in the process ive sanded away the sourounding FB, making it worse. but if you are fixing just small pin holes or air bubble in the gell coat there is a red putty in a tube called cool glaze, dont need to mix it. knife it on let it dry and rubs back reall easly. but if your not using bog to fix old marks etc. still definatly primer first. think about spaying say a silver metallic over an old yellow bar, yellow tint thru the silver and once installed the bar will look different in changing light.

painted and fat offset wheels it will look good. if you want to sell em PM me. =)

Generally there will be hairline crackes in the clear from the bar flexing on curbs/removal etc. depends on the condition of the bar

Im not a professional but i have sprayed a few parts and what not in the past. If the bar currently has good paint and clear coat you could use a 800 wet/dry paper the remove the clear coat or at least create a surface for the primer to grab. Anything courser will leave marks from sanding. After sanding clean of the dust and oil from hands etc. with prep sol, spray it with a 1k primer "high Fill" that should fill small cracks and sanding marks. Lightly rub any inconsistency back with a dry yellow paper "240 three cut" very light sand all over so it dosnt leave more marks. Clean with prep sol spray again with 1k primer, you should now have a flawless finish, if you have messed up any of the last coat of primer repeat sanding with the 240. Now it should be ready for you colour coat. Let the colour coat "flash off" dry for about 10 minutes in between coats, depending on colour it might take 4 coats. Once you have a solid colour coat, let it fully harden over night, then sand with 800 wet paper to remove and texture from spraying and dust, clean with prep sol and spray final coat of colour. Let it dry fully before the clear coats especially if it’s a metallic colour. Clean with prep sol; Now lay down some clear coats ie 3, again once you are happy let it full dry. Give it a wet sand with 800, clean with prep sol and spray the final clear coat. This should leave you with one hell of a good final finish; the trick is during any of the process if your not happy with something do it again. Hope it helps

ive seen this dude before he gets in all types of fights on the net about his cordia. I do know most of his arguments are with kids on msn agruing about imaginary cars and fantasy mods..lol

i have heard rumors that police can defect on the grounds of "suspicion of modification", so even if you have a stock turbo on a high mount manifold it might get undue attention from the boys in blue. and the car will have to be inspected, and who knows the list of changes they will give you!