Finny

Backfiring is usually from restarted timing. loosen the screws on your crank angle sensor and turn it full clock wise if it pings wind it back a tad. Also check that your igniter is earthing properly, my car was running retarded timing even with CAS turned fully clock wise until I ran a separate earth wire too my igniter.

I wish my car did 25L per 100km. Last time I drove my RB30DET powered R33 it cost me $50 (32L) to drive 60Km. Most of that was highway driving and with a light foot.

Ok here is an update: I hate replaced the AFM, the ignighter, the spark plugs, checked the coil packs I still have no idea why the car is spluttering and running so rough. It even splutters on idle now Kinda important as I have no car to get to work. I have brought a new set of injectors (800cc) to see if that fixes it.

Hi all, I put a Botch 023 fuel pump in my car about a week ago. When we first drove the car afterwoods it went like a dream. After it recieved a fair flogging the car refused to run any more. After a while the car cooled down and it would start again but was having a big winge under load. it would splutter and carry on. I checked that the fuel pump was working fine and its holding pressure well so the pump is working fine. Since then I have replaced the Crank angle sensor and the AFM with a Q45. It is still doing it after that but it wont do it until you have driven it for about a minute until it warms up. Basiclly it revs until about 2000rpm on a flat. from about 1500rpm onwards in drops power drematicly until at about 2000rpm were it just compleatly cuts out. if you put your foot flat to the floor it will back fire once it stops cutting. Up hills is imposible it just wont do it at all. it seems like a ignition problem to me as the fuel seems to be getting in there hence why it burns all that unburt fuel that it has been dumping in while while cutting. It blow massive flames when it cuts. Any ideas? I have changed the air fuel ratios but it seems to make no difference.

Thats correct because the volume is more dense. Thing is AFMs run out of boost so they read the air at atmospheric pressure and not once it has been compressed. I will have to look into getting a RB26 PFC to run on my RB30/25 as I think that will be a good option.

Yeah but I would most likely go something crazy as far as MAP goes, I have heard you can get 7 bar map sensors. I want to run around 30-35PSI once management is sorted.

Thats exactly what I thought happens. Boost levels fluctuate and if I am maxing my AFM at 5000rpm.... I really don't want to map from 5000-7000rpm with only 1 dimensional tuning being that 5000-7000rpm is were I make all my power and were the cams are in their efficiency. I was thinking I might just run a 50/50 AFM bypass so that I can at least get a semi decent tune just with my SAFC so I have some more time to get my management sorted. I also assume I could just get my hands on 2x stock Rb25 AFMs or 2 Q45s and a PowerFC with read from both? I assume PowerFC is able to do that. Also how hard is it to get an RB26 PowerFC to run in a RB25 as I don't have VVT, can have twin AFMs etc. It's just really hard to find an RB25 PowerFC these days.

Well this is my interpretation, I am probably wrong tho. Say 1000cfm of air maxes the AFM. And you are pushing 1100cfm of air. The ECU would see 1000cfm of air so there for running the car leaner and leaner as it pushed more air. I know you can just richern the mixture from when it hits the AFM max upward so that it still has correct mixtures but that is hell dodgy because you arn't going to have the exact same amount of air every time. I am sure you will tell me that I am wrong

I meant removing the spring from the wastegate so its always open. SAFC tells me AFM is at 100% when I hit about 5000rpm. I do realize that the SAFC reads 100% AFM a little bit before the AFM actually maxes but still it is at about 40% AFM at 4500rpm at 5000rpm cams start to come into efficiency and it skyrockets to 100%. I do have a fair amount of head work, very free flowing exhaust etc. it does flow a lot of air. Engine is also over 3L. Autronic; I have heard good things but haven't really looked into them. I think I will have to do some studying.

Most tuners here say PowerFC because its easy and won't really touch any thing else. Thing is these guys could probably count how many PowerFCs they have tuned on their hands. I have heard there is a decent tuner in Launceston (200km away from me in Hobart) and he is really good at tuning Microtechs as I have heard. But I can rent out a dyno and I wouldn't mind attempting to tune say a microtech or an e-manage on dyno. I would probably go a PowerFC is they wern't so hard to get hold of and people want like $1600 for them and really there are a lot better management systems for $1600.

Hi all, I have been researching ECU options for the last 6 months and I still find my self back at square one with no real options. I have an RB30DET forged internals, high end cams, big turbo, 800cc injectors, big fuel pump etc. etc. I disconected my actuator so in high revs I am seeing about 3psi. I have a STOCK ECU with only a SAFC to adjust fuel mixtures so that I can sneek the car about untill I get complete A/M management. My cams seem to make all their power between 5,000 - 7,000rpm but at 5500rpm on 3psi of boost I am maxing my Air Flow Meter..... After thinking about this I thought well a Q45 AFM can still be maxed out with out too much effort so I would really like to go a MAFless tune. I have been studying these two options at the moment, One being a Microtech LTX12 and an E-manage ultimate. These both can run with a pressure sensor but ofcourse E-manage untimate is a piggy back system but also this is a street car so weighing up the power possibilities of the Microtech and the drivability of the E-Manage and I am just stuck there. PowerFCs are way too old for my liking, every one has them and they can't run a pressure sensor, they are also way too expensive for what they are. eg. $1600 for an RB25. The other thing that is really opealing about the E-manage Ultimate is I will be able to slap my car on dyno and tune it my self with a laptop. I will also most likley be able to do this with the Microtech aswell, I have had a play around with the software. I live in Tasmania and the tuners here are well.... hopeless I dont trust that they will strap the car down correctly let alone tune an ECU. The tuners that I have talked to here don't even understand what an RB30DET is. I feel like the only thing they can tune is a dirty old V8 carby. So I am just wondering what you guys recommend, I basiclly need an ECU that will give me decent drivability because this car is mainly a daily driver, be able to manage a fair decent ammount of power and also be fairly easilly tuned. It's a big ask but I hope I end up with something good. Also with the E-Manage, I understand that you can plug the MAP sensor into one of the extra imputs but I have not been able to find a loom+MAP sensor to suit it. If I was going to follow down that path I would want the MAP sensor and loom with it but I can't find anyone that sells them. Also I am not running VVT at all so that might give me some more options.

Spoted "EVL-033" crossing the bowen bridge about an hour or so ago. Was ussing it as a speedo as I forgot to hock up my speedo when putting my new engine in. Was basking in the all mighty raw of my insane RB30DET

I had GTR style side skirts but I just broke one in half.... I can spray them thats fine but if you have some black ones that would make live a lot easier. New or 2nd hand I don't care but they have to go to Hobart, Tasmania. I have a Nismo 400R front bar so I would like some to match that if possible.

true, my cams also make idle nice and lumpy I understand what you say with minimum injector time but it wont idle on stock AFR even though you would think the RX7s would put out more petrol than the stock ones. thing is when I run +50% on the SAFC it idles much better. I am at work so its hard to tell until I get home but I think it may have a bad earth meaning the injectors aren't opening fully or something like that. They are all pulsing, not getting any black carbon smoke out the back so I doubt its running rich. I will get after market management later on, its just that I wasn't planning to have my engine blow up and then spend BIG $s on my new one... so I am kinda broke for a bit.

Trust some one from the R31 club to make a meaningful post. Yeah I couldn't get the car to start at all. multimeter on the gray wire and nothing. A friend of mine had to hock up a 12v wire to his gray injector wire when he put an RB30DE in his R31 so he said maybe you have to do the same?? doesn't really make any sense. There is no fuse or any thing that governs the injectors? Ok here are my calculations. 550cc injectors -33% = 368.5cc so if I run -33% on my SAFC is should run stock AFR. But... at -33% it wont start at all. at 0% it will start but hates me. at +50% it starts and I can drive it but it misses a bit and carries on. so +50% on a 550cc injector is 825cc... how the hell is it running at that. obviously it isn't actually getting that much fuel that is what I am trying to sort out. I might take it to an auto electrician.

the rail is top feed... you still make no sence. I will go and get the car dyno tuned but there is no point me dyno tune it if there is somefin f**ked with it. I dont care about swapping injectors or ECU or anything because I know I can get the car running nicely with thoes injectors and a SAFC... I have seen it done before. I just want to know why I have to run double petrol in it, then bigger injectors and its still too lean. It makes no sence. Its like sticking 1000CC injectors in an R33 and then have it running too lean with stock ecu. The car should be too rich to start.

Injectors came with the engine.

Factory ECU is fine to get the car running so I can get it to dyno. My mates 13 second RB30DE (non turbo) runs stock ecu with obviously larger injectors. Thing is, if I need to run 150% petrol just to get it to run then there is something seriously wrong. I am running larger injectors and richening it 50%.... so there for it should be running like 7:1 AFR and it shouldn't be igniting.

I would go a Garret BB, on a second choice I would go a KKR... probably because I have had a few of them and they have been very good to me. Currently have a KKR560 and with my new engine if I don't get 300RWKW I will cry. Engine = heavily modded RB30DET.

Hi all, Just finished getting my freshly build RB30DET in my R33. It has 550cc RX7 injectors. problem is, to get it to run at all I have to set my SAFC II to +50%..... shouldn't that be running RICH AS HELL!! I calculated that I need -33% to get stock fuel ratios so why wont it idle with out +50%. I was thinking that maybe I have wired the injectors up wrong, I made my own plugs up temp until I can get a hold of some proper injector plugs. So at the moment the injector power it closest to the back of the car and injector signal is towards the front of the car. This is how the stock RB25DET has it, are RX7 injectors the same. I checked the impedence on the injectors and they are high impedence like the RB25DET ones. Also for some bezzar reason I had no voltage on my gray injector power wire.... I just hocked it up to ignition but why would that have happend?

Thanks guys, The seller arranged transport through Toll. $180 Now I just have to wait for it to turn up.

Who did you go through floody, Also I need to get a crate or pallet or something for the engine, I heard that when Toll sent my mates RB30DET they charged like $100 to build a crate around it? Also I don't have an ABN number so I can't get a Toll account otherwise I would go through them, so any suggestions were you dont need an account?

Friend of mine got an RB30DET inc. gearbox from Sydney for $300 + $100 for a crate through Toll. I got quoted $140 from melb.

Hi guys, Just brought a new engine from Tuncurry, New South Wales. I need to ship it and was just wondering if any one knows of a good currier to send it with and rough esstimate on price.

I am after an RB30DET. It needs to be shipped to Tasmania, Hobart. I dropped a piston on my old RB25DE+T so I have R33 S1 loom, ECU ect. So even if its missing parts I may have them already as my block and head is dead but all other parts are fine. I also have Turbo and exhaust manifold etc. so that isn't required. I am also after a set of injectors to handle 300RWKW so around 550cc and to fit an RB25DET fuel rail or if you have a set of injectors and a fuel rail to suit that would be good also.