Finny

Sorry if this has already been sujested. I use to get HUGE boost spikes over around 4000rpm. I changed turbos and wastegates 3 times and still had the same issues. Had a thread on here to see if any one had any ideas. It ended up being the igniter wasn't earthed properly which inturn gave me very retarted timing. If the timing is retarted the fuel/air will still be conbusting when the exhaust valve opens which spools the turbo up like crazy. My wategate isn't as big as yours and I am running a heavily modified RB30DET and if my timing is too retarted I get the same issue. Try advancing your base timing to see if that helps or advancing it up top where you get the boost spiking on your ECU. Also make sure your igniter has a good earth, mine was screwed into the stock plastic cover but I had to run an extra earth wire to get it to work properly. I can also retard my timing and see 30psi of boost with the wastegate perm open. advance the timing back to 15degrese or so and its fixed.

19 year old can't afford an R34 GTR? Why not? I am 20 years old. I own a heavilly modified R33 GTS-T and have been looking into getting an R34 GTR Vspec II. I earn $51,000 a year and I live in Tasmania so the same position in the mainland would be fetching around $75,000 as Tasmanian wages are gerenally lower. I obviously don't have the money to buy an R34 GTR upfront but with my income and my very low cost of living a Bank would be glad to lend me the money to buy one. I could probably save up $10,000 fairly quickly for a deposit if I didn't already owe $18,000 from my R33 When my brother was 21 years old he was on $96,000 a year in Western Australia.

Hi all, I am after a Microtech LT12s Either with the universal plug so I can make my own loom converter or an RB25 loom convertor.

Hi all, I am about to order a Microtech LT-12s for my RB30/25DET powered R33. I am just trying to get a few things clear before I order it. I have been told by some people that the Microtech's have an inbuilt map sensor? if true how many bar is the map sensor and what .psi is it good for? So if it doesn't come with one am I able to order a map sensor from microtech to suit? Do I need a wideband 02 sensor? Now obviously they will load a base tune on to it but my engine is fairly different to stock, I have an R32 RB25DE non-vvt head and an RB30 block. the block has forged internals with lower compression than stock and the head has head work and cams etc. I have 870cc Siemens Deka injectors. Will the base tune would I be able to drive 200km safely to a Dyno shop to get it dynod. I live in Tasmania so there is only 1 dyno shop that I will actually trust to tune my car and hes 200km away. Can't wait to see figures from this engine

Yeah, all depends on how much money you have to spend but yes a bosch 023 will do the trick but if you can pay double then you can get a nice brand name one with a good filter on the back of it and a new cradle and you can also tell all your mates how awesome you are. I also heard that you can run a bosch 044 with a hose coming off it with the sock/filter thing on the end of the hose and put that in your tank. Not sure if this is true but might be worth looking into.

Dude.... I walked into a dyno shop which had 2x R33s out the front in so I assumed yeah they might know something. I was like yeah I have an RB30DET, 40 thou oversize, big cams, forged internals, lots of head work, big injectors, big turbo blah blah blah... Then he was like umm... why are you running a VL engine in your car..... I was like omfg I hate people who say that.. its an RB30 block with an RB25 head. he looked very confused and then said well $1500 for a tune. leave it with us for a few weeks and we will see what we can do. A guy owns a performance shop here, I buy a lot of stuff off him and hes from QLD. He said that all of the tuners here he wouldn't even trust them to do a power run and that he is getting a tuner down from QLD to tune his car for him and hes going to hire a dyno for him to use. I am going to get him to tune his car for me when he comes down.

YES.... you can lower spool by retarding the timing down low. This is because the petrol is still igniting when the exhaust valve opens so you get hotter more expanded air comming out the exhaust which helps with spool. But obviously lowers the low end power a bit... depends on what you want really. I lowered the spool on my old KKR480 by 1000RPM by doing this, but ofcourse its not really good for the turbo as it will run hotter for that brief moment that its in low revs. Also when I did it on my car I set it so that it would only do it if you had over 80% throttle so when daily driving it had good timing. Go and retard your timing right back as far as possible, I bet the turbo will kick in really quick and probably get it really hot and most likley over boost past what the wastegate is set to. But obviously the car will run like shit....

looks like your SAFC is dead.... if you hock the RED and BLACK wire up (12v and ground) the screen should turn on with the back light for the turny knob. I can't remember if SAFCs have a yellow wire for battery or not but if they do that will need to be hocked up as well. You don't need any sensors to be hocked up for the screen to come on. Try looking at it in some good light to see if you can see the screen, it may just have a blown back light in this case it will just be VERY dim. either way the unit will need to be replaced.

Dude 023 is the 044 internal.... You wont find any thing under 044 internal. They are called an 023. Search for BOSCH 023 in ebay there is one on there at the moment. I paid $180 for mine plus postage but that was when no one really used them as every one goes by what people say on forums and every one said 040 intank or 044 external. Now there is a fair demand for them price has gone up. 023s are exactly the same as 044 but they are an intank version. Also MAKE SURE YOU TANK IS CLEAN and you have a good fuel filter. I clogged mine up with crap due to dirty tank and had to clean it out, made the pump go really load and not push the pressure, was fine after I cleaned it tho. I ended up getting a piece of mesh (like you would use in your front bumper) folding it over in a half circle like thing and hose clamping that to the bottom of them pump, I then covered that in petrol filter like material, stocking may do but I am not sure if the petrol would eat away at it? That helped a lot but this was only as my fuel filter had never been replaced and I had a dirty tank. Bosch 040 would also have this problem, its only because they have a not very fine metal mesh filter on the bottom and fine dirt etc can get in.

my daily driver is out of action so I use it to sneak to work etc. Microtech isn't far away.

A quick run on dyno wouldn't have shown that as dynos don't have fuel pressure readouts. I had to remove the fuel gauge off my fuel pressure regulator as it filled up with petrol and leaked :S. Used a mates Mallpassi to test fuel pressure. Also dyno guys here are stupid and wouldn't have worked it out any way. Now I have to fix it all over again because the 023 keeps sucking up stuff off the tank and clogging its self so I have to pull the pump out and clean it ever 10km.... wish they had a better filter on the back of them.

Hi all, I have posted about 6 threads about this in the last year or so and still havn't resolved it. When I first got my car it ran perfect. no cutting nothing. First mod was FMIC, KKR480 turbo, SAFC II, 10psi. All done these in one hit. Ever since then it has been ecu cutting at high revs. Now I know every thing about R&R and what it does and it IS NOT Rich and Retard. I am tanking like hitting a rev limiter. Ignition compleatly cuts for a second or so. I ended up just thinking it was the ECU cutting due to too much airflow recorded on AFM. Ok thoes first mods were about a year ago. My car is now compleatly different, new engine, RB31DET forged internals, cams, head work, KKR560, Q45 AFM, Bosch 023 fuel pump etc. etc. Now I have got the actuator on my turbo disconnected because I am still running the engine in so I am getting about 2-3psi max. I am still running stock ECU with SAFC II to deal with fuel until I get my microtec LTX12s later on. I also have a set of 870cc Siemen Deka low impedence injectors to go in but I have to wait for microtec for that. With my current setup I am still getting this "cut" at like 4500rpm onwards with only 2-3psi of boost. A friend of mine was in it the other day and he was like wtf was that cutting bs... and I was like yeah ECU is cutting due to too much air flow and hes like umm bull shit I have been in a 210RWKW R33 with stock ecu and stock AFM and that had no problems at all..... I am now really confused.. I mean at 5000rpm in my car with 2psi I am going to be making what 120RWKW or somefin. So I was just wondering if any one had ANY ideas.... I may have to record my car doing this and put it up on youtube as most people dont understand what I am talking about. its like a COMPEATE cut of all power for like a second or so. I have had my car Rich and Retard and you basiclly just loose power due to it being rich and retarted timing but you can still continue reving the car it just doesn't love it. Where as what I am getting there is a compleate cut like the car goes from making heaps of noise at 5000rpm to compleatly silent and the tacho just dropping until it stops cutting. Also it doesn't cut unless I am flooring it. like I can rev it all the way out to rev limiter if I give it say 60% throttle. I am going to borrow my mates RB25DET ecu and see if that makes any difference.

The bosch 023 is that strong that it was sucking the bottom of the fuel tank up and blocking the pump off. On idle it wasn't doing it so when I checked fuel pressure I thought it was fine. Ripped the 023 out and placed it in so it couldn't suck up the bottom of the tank and its fine now.

I highly recommend the KKR560 for that, 300RWKW is pretty much what they are good for. They are VERY easy to install, bolts strait up to the stock manifold, just need a dump pipe made up. mine cost me $100 its just V clamp or you can buy one to suit. Otomoto sell the dump pipes for $150, turbo is $999. They also bolt up to stock oil lines. They are not as laggy as most people say, mine kicks in at 2800rpm but I have an RB31DET, expect about 4000rpm spool. Probably be able to reduce that with some tuning. This is an RB25DET, dyno from otomoto's site. As you can see 22psi at 4500rpm.

I have tested the Q45 AFM on my car and it works fine with both SAFC II and the SAFC Neo. Just set hotwire type, in 2 out 4. Works a dream, love my Q45.

Thats an RB20 for ya Re-tune, retard the timing down low. My mates R32 GTS4 RB20 spools at like 4000rpm and thats dead stock.

Don't you mean the bosch 023.... I have one... they are MAD!!! You have to be careful when installing them because they can suck to the bottom of the tank and then obviously not pump any petrol. Make sure you cover the positive lead on the pump well aswell, mine was earthing out on the tank.

YOU CAN'T LOAD UP MY CAR BECAUSE IT SPLUTTERS ITS FACE OFF WITH ANY ACCELLERATION!! its not going to tell them any thing. I have dyno tuned cars before.... the car bearly idles.... any load and it doesn't fire at all. I can stick it on dyno pull the clutch out and the car would stall. The car runs like it has 2psi of petrol pressure but I have checked that and it has 42psi of petrol. I don't trust the dyno tuners here any way, last dyno I watched the idiots used the dyno brakes and put a VZ-SS into the dyno fan because it jumped off the rollers and they didn't strap it down.

I disagree... Stock RB25DET against a heavilly modified RB30DET with cams etc. there is going to be a difference in air flow at idle. Also the car is idling a tad higher, engine is very tight and new still, needs a fair big of air to keep it turning over. Longer stroke etc. the engine is doing a fair ammount more. Dyno is not going to tell me any thing.... It wont even get one run on dyno as you can't rev it... they will just be like umm we can't dyno run this car cuz you can even give it any throttle. Whats it going to tell me.... AFR while idling... thats going to help heaps. I have an exhaust leak as my dump pipe isn't real tight because the exhaust and dump was make for an RB25DET which sits 1.5 inches lower than my current engine. I took my car to a local performance shop (one with a dyno) and they said yeah theres your prooblem you have an exhaust leak there... WTF!! IDIOTS!!! what the hell is an exhaust leak going to do. I can run my car with out an 02 sensor as its only used for open loop when highway driving and I still have the same problem when my 02 sensor is disconnected.

Yeah I was thinking about it but knowing my luck there would be a cop around the next corner. I got booked the other day doing 94km/h in a 80km/h zone... apparently tachos arn't that good to guess your speedo off. I will have to hock it up one day :S but it soo far out any way being that I have 4.11:1 diff gears and 18" rims. I havn't dynoed it yet as I am waiting to finish the engine off, Microtech LTX12s is yet to go in and a bunch of other things, I am aiming for a solid 300RWKW tune for street use and a slightly higher reving 350RWKW or so for drags. I should make that easily, engines good for 400RWKW with a big enough turbo.

My mates R31 was manual and he said the syncos loved it. Went strait in with out a problem. Its not going to do as much as you think it is as the engine isn't making any power. Clutch would slip or wheels would light up before it did any damage. Clutch dropping a car with lots of grip from rev limiter would be worse.

Disconnect the vacuum hose from your wastegate actuator.

My mate did the exact same thing in his R31 which runs a NA RB30DE. He ran 14.0 I think.... maybe a tad faster The car has like 12:1 compression. He said he shifted at like 7000rpm and the car just ripped up to like 9500rpm before he pushed the clutch back in. It did nothing to his car that he can tell and its been about 4 months or so since and hasn't noticed any thing.

Backfiring is usually from restarted timing. loosen the screws on your crank angle sensor and turn it full clock wise if it pings wind it back a tad. Also check that your igniter is earthing properly, my car was running retarded timing even with CAS turned fully clock wise until I ran a separate earth wire too my igniter.

Yes is seems just like an air leak in my intercooler piping but I have checked all my piping and there is no air leak. AFM is reading steady readings 2.8% air during idle which is about right for my air hungry engine. Stock engine use to be 1.7% I think. Tune is fine.... if I increase or decrease AFR it makes no difference.. to the spluttering any way. cars idle at 14.7:1 and I can't even free rev the car over 4000rpm because it splutters too much. If I richern my mixtures up to 20% it makes no notisable difference while free reving and if I lean it heaps it makes no difference either. If I adjust my fuel pressure... makes no difference. I am running out of things to replace.... I am going to replace my intercooler and I am getting a Microtech LTX12s soon so I will see if that will make any difference. I am also going to replace the intake manifold with a greedy one and a 90mm billet throttle body. It sucks because I leave in Tasmania so I can't take it to a macanic because there is no gregory's for RB30DETs so they can't read it to find out whats wrong.