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Finny

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Everything posted by Finny

  1. Ok so that means Z32 AFM for me but the problem is, I have an SAFC but not a PFC, I assume you can get a Z32 to work with a SAFC but wont that just translate the Z32 signal into a stock AFM signal then feed it to the ECU meaning the limit will still exist due to voltage range??? I don't really understand it that well. But I assume I need a Z32 AFM and a PFC... so I am looking at about $3000 to fix this one problem :'( I might as well add some more money to that and get an RB26DETT half cut and do away with the RB25DET :S
  2. Also a friend of mine has an R34GTT and that made 172RWKW on dyno with very little mods and his SAFCII was displaying 98% air flow at the highest which he thought was a little worrying. When I first got my car with stock side mount ect. I could get it up to about 96% when pulling it hard up a hill in 3rd at around 12psi but now I have FMIC and a few other things the car is easilly hitting 100% AFM in 1st gear let alone 3rd. I really thing the only way I can resulve this is with a PowerFC... which is anoying because its going to cost me heaps to get it tune up as I live in Tas. Thing is I can't understand why I need a PowerFC when all I have is stock turbo, FMIC, free flowing 3" exhaust from turbo, pod and thats basiclly it I would assume that stock ECU would easily handle thoes mods. Coil packs seem fine and spark plugs are iridiums gapped at 0.8mm.
  3. Ok I have researched this for AGES because I was having some boost cut issues. Ok I installed an SAFCII and while installing it I notised that the previous owner was a fool and installed a turbo smart fuel cut defender on it which was actually making the ECU go spastic. I removed this and there was no more boost cut, I could run 16psi through it stock ECU and it didn't have a care in the world. It did R&R (Rich and Retard) some times but my experience with R&R was that it only made you lose a little bit of power and it wasn't really that notisable but if I ran 14psi it had more power than at 16psi due to R&R. I also installed an R32 Actuator and I actually prefer my stock actuator. I have a boost controller but when that isn't connected the car hits about 4.5psi quickly then really struggles to get to 10psi which it hits at abotu 5500rpm. With the stock actuator the car hit 7psi really fast and held that all the way. With my boost controller hocked up the wastegate still opens earler than the stock R33 actuator so my boost builds quicker with the stock one over the R32 actuator. Also my car boost creaps hard with R33 stock actuator and does the same thing with R32 actuator but just a little less I assume this is because I am getting less power with the R32 actuator due to less boost over the rev range. I have a single muffler 3" system with no restriction, I have a one piece dump pipe so no issues with the wastegate not opening fully, I think I will resolve this by putting a new turbo on it with a bigger internal gate.
  4. Hi all, I am having a few issues with my R33. When I plant my foot and rev it to about 5000rpm the car will pop flames like its running REALLY rich and as it continues to rev to 7000rpm the pops happen more and more. so basicly you know when you back down a gear in a car with a big exhaust and it burbles and pops flames well mine does that but more vigourisly while I am driving it hard. I leaned it out heaps in the high revs on my SAFC and that seemed to clear it up a little bit but the car started to ping due to being too lean so I had to richen it back up again. I also notised that my SAFC was displaying 100% air flow at around 5500rpm and onwards... but I didn't think I would be maxing out my air flow meter with the small ammount of mods that I have, any one know what the stock air flow meter is good for? I am assuming that what is happening is the AFM is reading 100% air flow and the ECU is going ohh crap dump fuel but I just don't understand how I could be maxing the AFM.. I have heard that they are good for atleast 250RWKW and my car is definatly not making that much power but I am running stock ECU with SAFCII. Any ideas???
  5. Have a guess what it was I installed my SAFCII and found a bloody fuel cut defender that the idiot previous owner had installed. both that and the boost controller was brought from autobarn so I assume the guys at autobarn where like you need a FCD if you are going to get a boost controller otherwise your car will fuel cut... idiots.. Any way removed it and the car is perfect runs fine now.
  6. There are heaps of threads out there on fitting KKR480s to R33s so please do a search. It will bolt strait up with some modification, I havn't tried so probably better off reading the threads.
  7. Hi all, For sale KKR480, used for about 200km (Unfinished turbo conversion project). This is in the same condition as it was when I pulled it out of the box. $500 o.n.o, I paid $900 6x 370cc Injectors same as what are used in the VT Supercharged commodores Brand spanking never used. $250 o.n.o, I paid $530 Update: I am in Hobart, Tas. Turbo comes with a braided oil sender which I used on a VS V6 so its 75cm long and comes with a bunch of fittings so I am sure you could get it to fit to a skyline but I am not sure what end fitting would be required. It also comes with the oil return piece so you can just clamp a high temp silicon hose for the drain. But From what I have read skyline oil piping will bolt strait up.
  8. Hi guys, I have been getting over boost issues lately and I assumed it was leaking vacume hose to the actuator but I replaced all the hoses and removed my boost controller so it should run 5-7psi and it is still over boosting. The actuator doesn't seem to be leaking and the wastegate moves freely when I diconnect the actuator. The car hits 5psi and holds that untill about 4000rpm then it peaks all the way to 18psi. Any one have any ideas? car mods listed bellow...
  9. Metal bars Police being police I doubt that its lower than legal.
  10. Its at bob jane at the moment and they said they can't get them off and know no way of how to either. Called a couple of lock smiths and they said the same thing.
  11. I brought an Import R33 GTST and took it in to get new tyres and the bloody thing has locking nuts on it which I didn't realise. Does any one know any way of removing them?
  12. Hi all, My mates Red R31 was stolen last night its a series 3 lowered on stogies. Its turbo but has no BOV and runs low boost so you may only hear a slight turbo spooling whistle noise as it goes past. If you have seen this car about please reply. It was stolen from montrose, neer glenorchy.
  13. I dare say install it your self or if you dont know what a soldering iron is ask a mate who does. Then get it tuned, it doesn't take long at all and I have seen good results. My mate paid $100 for his R34 GTT to be tuned with SAFC and thats in Tasmania FFS where everthing is 100x more expensive when it comes to tuning. He had stock every thing exept full 3" exhaust and dump. He went from 158RWKW to 171RWKW! Well worth the $100. Also the guy who said 1% less on all rev range.. thats not gonna make any difference really. you would be going from say 12.8:1 to 12.7:1 Air fuel mixture. When I get off my arse and wire my SAFC2 in I will be making up a basic tune before I get to dyno because I have a lot of experience with SAFCs and I know my car is getting too rich in top end from 6000-7000rpm so I will lean it a tad there and lean it a little before boost to help spool. But this will only be temp for about a week till I get into dyno.
  14. Yes I think this is an Air flow cut... maybe because it doesn't have fuel maps to handle that much air flow or somfin and spazzes out and cuts or it may just be an air flow cut set on the ecu. When I get off my arse and wire in my SAFC I will ne able to better diagnose this as I will be able to see at what % of air flow it cuts at etc.
  15. HAHAHA yes my tyres arn't that crash hot i have new ones but just need to get them fitted... My suspention is all good, fairly stiff coil overs but still soft enough for a comfy ride. This car was insane for "stock". It does have a full 3" exhaust including dump etc. and I am running 10psi but I have only had this car for about 3 weeks and you never know what has been done to these cars in Japan before they get here, could have a high flow or something. Its probably from the 4.39:1 diff gears that make it feel like it has heaps of power and obviously more torque for each gear. 1st does neerly 50km/h when it hits rev limiter I can just take off wait till 1st gets to 5000rpm drop it into 2nd and the car will step right out and in a strait line.. I LOVE IT! Also I think I know what the issues is. This morning I notisted the car was running rich and blowing smoke in boost so I assume its leaking so giving the AFM an incorect reading and making it run rich. This intercooler was off my crazy turbo VS commodore :S so obviously no rags etc where in it.
  16. I Totally agree.. This is not a result of richening and retarding. If that where to happend the car would richern and splutter and blow smoke atleast before it was too rich to fire. This fully cuts the injectors like no fuel what so ever instantly cut. No engine noise nothing for a whole second. I have an autometer guage!!! This is a boost/airflow cut I am not sure if its triggered by the air flow meter reaching a certain ammount of air flow or the pressure sensor. I assume its the air flow sensor because early in the morning when its cold it cuts earlier like before 10psi and when its all warmed up and warm intercooler I can get about 11psi. This is definatly not R&R I have experienced R&R when I had to put lower octane fuel in my car and all it did was lowered my power by a notisable ammount for a minute or so after the car stoped pinging but nothing like the cut I am getting. I will have to get my digital camera out and record this cut effect.
  17. Sounds like FUN! I am up for that.
  18. I am seeing less power over the entire rev range... Like even after its spooled and I have 10psi showing up on my boost guage it still doesn't seem to accelerate as quick as before. Doesn't make much sence you would think 10psi would mean 10psi.. meaning same power but should be more because its 10psi of colder air so more oxygen. I will have to test the cooler for leacks it was SOO hard to get the cooler to pipe up as I got a piping kit.. and well it didn't just pipe up I had to modify it a fair bit and it was a real bastard to get the cooler to join up.. any way thats what you get for buying from ebay.
  19. I have seen MANY threads on this forum about this but I am still disagreeing with what I read. I see alot of people saying I hit boost cut at ~12psi etc. and the reply is that its R&R (richern and retard) from pinging or missfire or something because of too much boost and not infact a boost cut. I beg to differ... I think that it is an air flow cut from hitting a certain amount of air flow or falling off the fuel maps. I have my *air flow cut* down to an exact art. I know the exact ammount of boost it requires to hit it. Its at about 10.5psi with my fmic and I can adjust my boost controller one setting less and it stops... now no one can say that a difference of about 0.3psi will stop pinging or missfire which will cause R&R to set in. I previously thought my air flow cut was R&R but then today I was driving with a friend of mine who has an RB30/RB25 Hybrid and he said its definatly not R&R and actually pointed out when my car was hitting R&R which resulted in a slight loss of power but not a cut as such. The cut I get is very drematic its like a complete cut of injectors for about a whole second and then its fine untill it hits that exact ammount of air flow again then it cuts for a whole second. Just like a rev limiter which runs off fuel cut in commodores etc. exept the cut is much longer. I would really like some one to clear this up because I am not going to take R&R as an answer this is a definate cut not a result of the car richening and retarding. The tacho drops rapidly with a compleate cut of all power then after about a second every thing is restored to normal. Also is there a way of removing this with out a replacement ECU, I am thinking of putting GTR injectors in and tuning my SAFC to suit which would then allow more airflow before the cut because the SAFC would be tricking the ecu and telling it that its getting less air flow than it really is.
  20. I am reading boost from my intake manifold. I can't run any more than 10psi because I hit boost cut at 10.5psi with smic I could run 12psi before boost cut but i assume thats because 10psi of colder air is probably the same amount of air compared to 12psi of warmer air.
  21. Hi guys... I have a fairly stock R33 GTST basicly just has exhaust and boost controller. I installed a 600x300x76 FMIC over the weekend and notised a fairly big drop in power. I was running 10psi before FMIC and 10psi after FMIC. Before FMIC in a strait line in first no mater what if your foot was to the floor and above 4000rpm the back tyres would light up like nothing else. Then if you shifted fast into 2nd the back end would step out and fishy tale hapily. (I have 2x 265s on the rear) Now I get no wheel spin in 1st and can't get it to loose traction at all when smashing it into 2nd Is this just because it lags more with FMIC..? I have my AFM before turbo should I move it closer to the TB?
  22. Hi all, Yesterday my power stearing belt snaped so I brought a new one and replaced it. While I replaced that I also installed a FMIC. Started the car and my speedo no longer works.... I did have to cut a whole next to the water container and to do that I had to remove a little bracket whick looks like it has the speedo wires hocked to it. All the wires look fine and are intack so I was wondering if any one had any sujestions.
  23. Ben, did you get photage of my car on the way to swansea? If you have it I will get you to upload it to my web server.
  24. I had a KKR480 on my VS V6 commodore and it went rather hard and hit full boost (12psi) at about 2800rpm. Since then I have returned the VS to NA and sold of parts etc. But I still have the KKR480 sittig in my garage and it was on the commodore for only 1 month or so and got about 1000km of use. I was wondering what is required in fitting this to my RB25DET and how long will this take to spool, The big old donk V6 seemed to spool it quickly but what about an RB25. I am assuming I will need to go to a top mount T3 flange exhaust manifold and custom oil and water lines and different dump pipe.
  25. Hi all, I have 2x 265/35R18 on the back of my R33 but they are pritty low on tread so I need 2 new ones. any 1 know any good places to buy these and if so how much and what brands etc are good. 265s are prefered but could also go 245,255 and tire wall 40 would be ok as well. Also I am in Hobart. Cheers.
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