Finny

I am up for it, Will have to get some one to drive my car for me. Sifn't have a licence.

I am stuck at this stage... need a PFC.. but they are so rare for RB25s unless you want to pay $1600. which is what people who pay $900 from Japan before they where discontinued expect you to pay.

Sold to Zebra

I also have some assorted oil fittings, including a braided 750mm long oil feed if required.

Item:Turbo from R33 + High Flowed + RB20 and RB25 actuators Age:Stock... Condition:excellent Price:Up for offers To Fit:RB25, RB20.. T3 flange Location:Hobart, Tasmania Contact:[email protected] Comments: This turbo was high flowed by previous owner so I am not sure exactly what was done but it has different wheels ect. Rear is still ceramic though, think it may be a VG30 rear wheel. Also turbo has no shaft play. best photage I have of this turbo is on one of my YouTube clips. I have the stock RB25 actuator and also have an RB20 actuator for the stiffer spring to stop exhaust pressure from opening the wastegate early. Both actuators are in working order. Basicly I will take the highest offer, will also prefer to sell to some one in Hobart but can post else where at buyers expence. IF SOME ONE IS ABLE TO PICK THIS UP FROM TRANMERE THEY CAN HAVE IT FOR $350

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the turbo it has no shaft play, Was high flowed by previous owner in Aus not sure when but it was imported 3 years ago so I assume not too long ago. I have had the car for 4 months

Also, guys what do you think my old turbo is worth. High flowed R33 turbo. A friend of mine wants to buy it but I am not too sure what a reasonable price is. I know a friend of mine sold a high flow VL turbo for $300 but yeah. What do you think it is worth?

Yeah I will get close to 300RWKW with that turbo with the right supporting mods. Didn't some one on the club get like 313RWKW with a KKR480.... Cams, well tuned, PowerFC etc. Any way, I would be very happy with 250RWKW.. well for a month at least. I have 4.4:1 diff gears... so you can imaging what 250RWKW would be like with those gears. I will go to a Garret GT35/40 eventually, I just had the KKR480 sitting around, I had it for sale for $400 and no one wanted it so I thought I would use it and its only done about 500km of work.

The song is interupt this program can't remember the auther. will check when I get home from work.

:S Mine is from JustJap its marked as a JJR480 but I thought they where just rebadged KKR480s... they look identical. Maybe I am wrong. It has only got oil holes. ummm that sucks... I should have got one from otomoto KKR 480 = Yes I can see the water holes on that one JJR480 = Ohh well looks like I will be going to a Garret GT35/40 later on down the track then.

Internally gated. V-clamp dump.

Yeah I would get a boost controller if I was you, adjusting that actuator rod would be a nightmare. I didn't think you could get 1.2-1.3 bar out of the stock actuator as my commodore running stock actuator on the KKR480 only saw 12psi tops. Does it over boost at all in high revs? I am hoping I dont need to get the wastegate cut out so it flows more. Ummm the enzed bit makes no sence... KKR480s are oil only.. I just blocked off my water lines. The stock oil lines seemed to bolt up perfectly.

Dan you are a knob head go blow a goat. You wouldn't know what boost was if it hit you in the face.

Yeah it has got a GMC or some Aus turbo reco company bandged on it. I dont think its GMC but that just comes in to mind, its some 3 letter name. Yeah KKR480s aren't that big, this one came off my VS commodore V6 and that spooled it at 2800rpm for 12psi. Its around 3000rpm, well you feel the boost kick in hard as then look at revs and its doing around 3000rpm. will have to have a closer look. Its definarly a KKR480 I brought it new. Any way stock turbo isn't big enough because I want 300RWKW. Also I did lean the living daylights out of it early on to help turbo spool. Well not that lean like 13.7:1 Air Fuel Mixture.

Responce is good, full boost 18psi at 3000rpm.

umm I doubt it... it definatly has the R33 stock front... maybe VG30 rear but the front is stock otherwise the stock piping wouldn't bolt up. The guy I brought the car off had no idea what had been done to it.

Installed this a while back. The installation was REALLY easy, alot easier than what I have read on here. Basicly you had to grind off one nut hole off the exhaust manifold where the heat sheld screws to and every thing else just bolts up. Stock oil lines hocked up perfect and I just blocked off the water lines. I didn't need to bend the actuator rod like some people have said. Here are the results.

Sorry guys I am keeping the skyline... Check it out

I am not to fussed about selling it as I do really really like this car but I don't see the point of it sitting here for 9 months doing nothing.. Also a mate drove it the othernight.... at 80km/h a cat jumped out in front of it and snapped the front bar pritty much clean in half... ARG!!! fibreglass sucks.. ohh well the cat is dead atleast. So I go to get a new front bar for it and get it sprayed up. No damage what so ever to the front bar except there is a bit of cat fur on it I am considering doing an engine overhaul, new turbo, PFC etc. if I was to keep the car. Let me get a new bar ready etc then I will post back with photos and you can come and see it.

Thats bezzar I have seen people run 250+ RWKW off stock injectors, as he said get a fuel pressure regulator and wind some more pressure in there and get a re-tune as more pressure will prolly make it run rich.

I put an RB20DET actuator on it because they are a 10PSI actuator so the spring is stronger. this means that the exhaust pressure can't push the wastegate open so it boosts quicker. I have the RB25DET actuator still and it works fine. I am not sure about the duty cycle as the SAFC doesn't display this but I would assume it would be around 70% as 370cc x 6 injectors should be good for around 240-250RWKW and if I am making about 180-200RWKW then that would be around 70% so there would be a fair bit of head room there. These are only estimates though but I can say this the amount of oxygen is proportional to the amount of power, obviously cold air is more dense so more oxygen so more power. My mates R34 GTT AUTO pulled 172RWKW and his car hits about 96% AirFlow at that and he has a side mount intercooler so going from this my car is hitting 100% AirFlow at about 6000rpm and continues to pull hard to 7000rpm and I have a FMIC so colder air. I would assume that mine is making around 190ISH RWKW from this info.. Altough consumptions mean nothing so I can't really say how much power it has all I can say is its very very satisfying to drive especially when VVTI kicks in at 5000rpm ALSO this car has a 4.39:1 diff gears so its a little shorter geared than your average manual.

Hi All, I am selling my GTST as I have lost my licence for 9 months for dragging off a VN-SS in town :S (first offence) Its still on JDS from when I brought it :S http://www.jds-auto-imports.com/car_displa...;pagetype=STOCK Since I brought it from JDS I have done these things: Front bumper was damaged so I replaced with a 400R bumper <looks NICE!!! Front Mount Intercooler SAFCII Exidy Sports Organic clutch from Slide (Clutch died 2 days after I brought the car) Tires where bawled on the back so I put a set of Potenzas on there (75% tread) RB20DET actuator nice new stearing wheel fixed fuel cutting issues This car goes very hard... I havn't had a chance to put it on dyno but with my SAFC tune(Yes its safe I checked Air fuel mixtures) this thing is maxing the AFM without even trying. (Maxing AFM just means that the AFM is reading max air, so any air that comes in above the 100% reading makes it run leaner but I tuned SAFC to richen it up when the AFM maxes under full throttle to fix this) I would recommend a Z32/Q45 AFM though to get the full potentual out of this car. I would assume 200RWKW because thats around what the AFM maxes at. $14000 ono.

This is soo easy to fix... Do an AFM bypass then get your PFC tuned to suit. You will get double the range out of your AFM for free exept for the cost of a quick retune. Basicly get a Y connector like you said but just dont have an AFM on one of them... so only 50% of air or so is messured and dyno will fix up the timing and Air Fuel mixtures to handle it.

Ok set SAFC to be input Z32/Q45 then output R32 stock (I think its 4). That will get the AFM to work with your SAFC but 1 BIG problem... Doing this gives you absolutly no advantage... because your SAFC is converting it to the stock AFM signal and theoreticly say the Z32 handles twice as much air the SAFC will convert the signal from 50% to 100% so as far as the ECU is concerned the AFM is the same as stock. So Yes you can run a Z32/Q45 AFM but with no benefit. I wouldn't be going and buying a new AFM this is what I would do. 50% AFM bypass so there for exactly 50% of the air is going through the bypass and not being read by the AFM. eg. messure up the stock AFM and have the same size pipe maybe a tad smaller due to the internals giving restriction and bypass the AFM with it. Now put your Injectors in and then calculate what you need to do to your SAFC to make it work. I will try and explain this but I dont garentee you will understand it Now with a stock setup the AFM reads 100% of the air and the Injectors put out 100% of the petrol the ECU tells it to put out. With a 50% AFM bypass the ECU is telling the injectors to put in 50% of what is actually needed but 550cc injectors are 48% bigger. So ECU is now putting in 74% of petrol needed .5+(.5*.48) So you now go to your SAFC and set entire rev range to +26% to make the ECU tell the injectors to inject the correct ammount of petol and woulah your AFM can handle twice as much air so theoreticly twice as much power. If you are planning to do any thing like this make sure you run it on a dyno so you know if your Air/Fuel mixtures are safe. That would pritty much be the cheapest way and also the dodgiest way but by the looks of your avatar you like dodgy.... I brought one of thoes Turbo's basicly for a laugh and after 3 days of 10psi boosting the turbo had that much shaft play that the compressor wheel and exhaust wheel were hitting the housing... Also oil seals shot out of it in the matter of hours. We had fun smashing the remains of that turbo

I know this but what I want to know is say (I dont know the voltage ranges so this is an estimate) stock AFM goes from 0v-5v and 5v is say 500cfm of air now if a Z32 AFM was say 0-5v as well but 5v was 1000cfm then what would happen is if you have a Z32 with a SAFC then when you hit 500zfm the Z32 AFM may only read say 3v but the SAFC converts that to the old AFM singnal so it spits out 5v to the ECU so there for there would be absolutly no difference in cfm limit. I am just wondering if I am correct in saying this. ALSO... AFM bypass, I have known about this for ages but this will also not fix my problem..... ok I give my self a 50% AFM bypass so that 50% of air is going into the AFM and 50% is bypassing... I set my SAFC to add 50% to the AFM reading. AFM gets to 50% air flow SAFC blows it to 100% air flow and you hit max air flow, You may be able to remove the limit on the AFM but the ECU will still be seeing 100% Air Flow and I doubt that it will have maps for above what the AFM can read so uselss. Only was I can make this work is by doing this, Getting for example 740cc injectors then doing a 50% AFM bypass and then I wouldn't even need to use my SAFC because the Injectors are pushing 50% more petrol but the AFM is reading 50% less air than its really gettings so that works out perfect. But I think this would screw up your timing etc. I know some one who has done the AFM bypass as he has a Twin TB NA RB30DE and the AFM only reads on one TB, he also has neerly double sized injectors to match and some SAFC tuning to get it perfect and he only sees around 40% AirFlow even though he is making around 170RWKW.