CDA

i got my splitfires put in recently, and the mechanic sed the same thing "its a pain in the arse with NA" and went on to explain the same thing scott just sed so i got charged a little extra - but ppl seem to think i shouldnt have :S - but im rather happy they showed me the coils after they removed everything, it seemed hilariously painful to do

yeh lol manual is fun, but u'll be shitting urself when ur stuck in heavy peak hour traffik for hours. plus i must say i like the look of an R34 over an R33 lol if i ever get a manual, i'd want it to be turbochargeD such as the 200SX S15 SPEC-R :D:D

you say it starts struggling 10mins into the drive... do you get the "check engine" light? if there was something truly wrong with the exhaust im sure the "Exhaust" symbol would light up

of course you can get better looking ones, but the price will also get better |^|

man, i have apparently the slowest combo out there - N/A R34 25GT FOUR DOOR AUTO - BUT, i still dont see why people think its slow... get an exhaust on, and get SPLITFIRES , and it will go hella fast enuff believe me. the autos do come with tiptronic too... :| i do 0-100 between 7-8 seconds.. it might be good to look into an R34 NA with 4WD system, coz dat will help a lot with the takeoff hahaha

free bump, thats a hella cheap price for them wheels, i'd be at ur door tomorrow if u lived in sydney

lol wow thanks but u didn hav to go thru the trouble, i think thats a little too much to be spending on a N/A SEDAN lol i mean how bad could the ones i mentioned really be.... honestly....

oh god why did u have to be in melbourne

Well with lifetime structural warranty im not too fussed about the quality... but if i could get volks for a grand id be more than willing, but it seems Tempe Tyres dont stock volk's... plus im in sydney so i guess i cant ask u for somewhere that might sell em lol

damn man why is it just ONE tyre! anyone would be interested if u had at LEAST two lol

My tyres have come of age and are losing tread, so I figured I might get some cheap replacements. So I was browsing, and came across these: http://www.tempetyres.com.au/products_clos...mp;part_no=1235 What do you reckon? Pictures of my R34 pearl white sedan are available in my profile page to help you visualise lol. If NOT these... what style DO you think i should get?

haha yeh i understand, but they didnt go extravagantly overboard with the price so i was ok with it

lol yeh they had almost my whole engine bay removed lol

OH MY GOD LOL I got the dudes at CRD to run a diagnostics check on my ECU, and they found that it was indeed an ignition problem. They said it was either the coil packs or something called the "crank angle sensor". I couldn't be happier, I can actually FEEL the difference with the splitfires, the whole car just seems so much more vigorous!!!! lol! ONE PROBLEM HOWEVER: they quoted me 495 + 95 labour for the splitfires, but they assumed that the RB25DE was in a similar configuration to the RB25DET, it turns out though that the N/A engine has TWO THROTTLE BODIES - WTFWTFWTF WHO KNEW THIS - compared to the Turbo which has only one, and this made the whole process twice as long, they took two hours to do it instead of 1, and had to charge me extra for the labour, and coz i got them to run the diagnostics check as well, it totalled to something around $730!!! - But I tell ya what, its SOO worth it. SplitFire Coil Packs SF-DIS-008 = $495 2 Hours labour + diagnostics check and ECU reset = $235 damn, not only R34 owners, but EVERYONE should buy a set of these. p.s. i felt so ridiculous rocking up there with a 4-door N/A skyline, when all the other cars you see there are r32/33 GTR's and 200sx s15's fark....

Croydon racing developments have em for $495 and they charge $95 for installation... I'm just REALLY WORRIED becoz its a lot of money to be spending and... what if it doesn't solve the problem...

it's difficult to sell a gt-t coupe that isn't manual...

just double checking with you guys, before i get some splitfires, its the SF-DIS-008 model right? for R34 n/a sedans with rb25de? also, where can buy them in SYDNEY (ive seen nengun.com sell it for around 500 dollars... but they don't do installation... anyone noe how much it mite cost to install?... and where?) THANKS

OK, So I drove mine last night and no issue for the first 2 drives. But after 15min on my last drive, it came up. This time the symbol came up when I gave it gas after stopping at a red light... and then I let go of the accelerator, it sounded shit for 2 seconds, then I gave it gas again and then it sounded fine... but the symbol remained Bloody annoying

im taking mine out for a drive today lol, hope it doesn't break down somewhere, and since the problem is sporadic, i'll let you's know if i get it tonite or not

lol i get the same problem!!! i thought it was my catalytic converter coz everytime i got the symbol, my car shudders, and the exhaust sounds hideous for a while before it gets back to normal. also, i hear a rattling/tinny sound which i believe has somethin to do with some part of the exhaust (cat). gonna take it to mechanic on monday and i'll let you all know what i find out lol.

ahh race_snooze u gave me an idea. u say afm... i have a pod filter installed with no heat shield or support (its just like... hanging there), i wonder if that could be it. ...unlikely... i reckon its the coil packs, it seems that if the coil pack/packs are bad there will be a loss of fire to one or more cylinders, which could cause drag on the engine and cause that "shudder" I sometimes get. apparently it can shut down some engines completely :S. T187 do me a favour and get your coil packs checked, then tell me if that's the problem lol i'm a bit strapped for cash atm, is it just me or do camry's and accord's not get these kinda problems? lol

I just read on autorepair.about.com that: Timing belts are used in two types of engines designated "interference" and "non-interference". If the timing belt breaks on a non-interference design, there is enough clearance between the pistons and valves to prevent damaging contact. An interference design does not have sufficient clearance between those parts and engine damage would result from a broken timing belt. This list notes whether engine damage would result if the belt should break. For vehicles not listed, I recommend replacement at 60,000-mile intervals. Breakage is not the only reason to replace your timing belt. Looseness and wear will allow the timing belt to slip and change valve timing resulting in very poor performance, a no-start condition, or engine damage. Does anyone know if the RB25DE is a "non-interference" or "interference" engine...

Just recently I got my car serviced and every now n then when i'm idling at lights... the car suddenly shakes and feels like it drops. It's very slight but noticeable... don't know if i'm just being paranoid, but does anyone know why that happens? Is it coz of new oil? Another problem I sometimes get is when im doing say 30km/h and want to crawl a bit faster and SLIGHTLY press down on the accelerator and hold it, i get a fluttering sound like "pht ft pht ft..." then when i press down a bit more the normal engine sound kicks in and it goes just fine... i someone reassure me! Thanks

sorry i created new post but heres the link for anyone interested http://www.news.com.au/dailytelegraph/stor...5007132,00.html

http://www.news.com.au/dailytelegraph/stor...5007132,00.html also on page 11 of Sunday Telegraph why oh why do drunk fools on p's drive skylines...