BANGN

would someone mind if I came to their house and trialed my ignitor pack in their R32 GTST? or if I could borrow one with the coilpack loom to try in my car? My car is missing flat out on cyl's and trying to narrow down the problem I have done the following - Replaced the AFM Pulled the coils and plugs and blown them and cleaned out the plug holes. long story short I have washed down the engine bay and trying to workout whats gone cactus.

I have allways wondered but never asked the question, every other forum I have been on there has been a Members rides showcase of peoples cars, how come there is no such thing here? I personally would love to see the individual work the members here put in, lots of great cars but no showcase for them care to shed some light on why?

good compression will not tell you if an engine isnt burning oil, it just tells you that you have good compression. Pull the plugs and have a look at the colour if one way valve on the intake manifold is blocked the turbo will just circulate the oil into the combustion chamber, if thats the case for the amount of oil you are using the intercooler will be full of oil i rekn

^^ go and have a look lol good to see its worth doing, I know what I am getting next

these days you shouldnt let someone drive the car unless they have cash... i f**king hate tyre kickers, especially those african dudes who try and beat you down to a stupid price

I am glad ther are people out there who still respect him and his memory, too many people making his memory out to be a joke.. RIP MJ, your music will go on forever.. you rocked my world

yeh well iv heard of the crappy D2 D4 shit.. Im not using the suspension for motorsport tho

I can get some K Sport Coilovers for not a bad price for my 32 GTST anyone heard of em? any good?

your fooling yourself if you think you can get a good one for 8K ^^ you'l get one but it will need love..

thanks for the help guys.. well i was able to move the wastegate flap up and down on the shaft so that straight away kinda says its not pulling back against the flap i wacked a large flat head screwdriver between the compressor housing outlet and the rod to the flap and bent it til it was pulling on it tight.. problem solved cheers

have just put a 45v1 turbo on my RB20 with a new steel bell mouth dump pipe i can hear a rattle through the dump pipe at idle, is it possible for the waste gate flap to make this noise? when i purchased this turbo with no pressure from the actuator i could still spin the wheel even though it was closed, do you think this is where my rattle is coming from? spools up fine, just when you wrap the throttle, you get like a rattle wind down. anyone had this problem/ suggestions how to fix or force the waste gate flap to close further

some turbos spin at idle, ball bearing types would be easier than normal but all comes down to exhaust wheel getting enough gas to spin and engine creating enough vacume to drag the wheel around if turbo is large then prob wont spin at idle unless its got sufficent gas to turn it

yeh well i didnt do that did I, that was after a nice drive lol.. il give it shit and do it properlly ay

I have a RB20DET right I have had the 4V3 in the past which usually offers great top end but so much lag.. the original 16V turbo offers great off the line power but lacks a bit up top the turbo I just purchased which is a 45V1 and as far as I can tell the Exhaust wheel is the same size as the 16V turbo however the compressor wheel looks to be the same size as the 45V3 item... which is larger than the 16v what could I expect from this? same lag as the 16V but the same power output as the 45V3 but minus that extra lag? or am I going to find its even more savage off the line with the same top end as the 16V.. just curious that I havnt done the wrong thing and got a gay turbo.. want something capable of 240rwhp once its tuned up at 1 bar

car has a brand new 040 pump, has new oxy sensor and i have cleaned the AFM, car was running bulk rich before I replaced the oxy sensor.. AFR was around 12 on last dyno, il be doing another one just to be safe on the AFR's

dont use any additive, only 95 pump fuel

they are NGK PFR6A-11 for my R32 GTST RB20DET - running 14psi they are gapped at .8 was just concerned as the turbo I replaced looked like this which is a 16V RB20 turbo which made some pretty shit noises under boost do the plugs look ok? i wasnt sure if they looked lean or not, they are slighly sooty around the outside of the thread and its a tan colour at the end even accross cylinders, car runs and performs fine but yeh just wanted a second opinion

thanks mate muchly appreciated, now hopefully I can align it in the right spot kudos

iv seen some 32's go for 6K, i purchased my last R32 GTST Auto for 6500 from NSW but by the time i freighted it, cleaned it up alot, converted it to manual, put rego on it, it owed me about 9K.....if you purchase one ex east you will pick one up cheap.. auto's are allways cheaper, manuals you pay a bit more for usually. most 32's under 8K are usualyl pretty rough tho.. if your buying a 32 under 10K be prepared to throw some dollars at it for maintanence

my pride and joy

red/darkred depending on age/heat ect..

I have a 45V3 with the OP6 rear housing with ceramic exhaust wheel and steel compressor wheel, I only just fitted it from a S/H purchase and found it has a high pitch spool bearing noise, was wondering who in perth (apart from turbotech) rebuilds turbo's and whats the going rate usually?

I purchased a 45V3 (RB25 turbo) to suit my RB20 the other day but the exhaust and compressor housings had been rotated in a different spot.. I have rotated the exhaust housing to the correct position no problem, however Im not certain where the compressor housing is ment to position exactly, I tried some guess work but now its all bolted on the pipe that go's into the intake manifold fouls on it. could someone please take a picture of there turbo so I can get an idea where I need to position it and also with the actuator on as that will help also

yeh its got up and down play as well as side to side LOL not terrible but not good im changing the turbo today anyway but was a bit worried when i saw what i saw i can afford to run 95 atm, its relativly stock but I know once i put the nistune on it I will need to go 98, my last 32 used to ping on anything but 98

95 Fuel, coolants been fine, its been chirping on boost tho