MOUTH

Well I have had both split and bellmouth on various cars; evo6-bellmouth (246kw@ all 4) rvr hsg-split / bellmouth (186kw @all 4) jzx100-bellmouth rb20 skyline-bellmouth chrysler lancer (rwd)- 1.8l with an rx7 turbo split Every dump I have had has made huge amounts of difference, the rvr I had, went from stock, then had a bellmouth and then I changed to a split (because the bellmouth was cheap and cracked) honestly there wasn't any noticeble differences between the two, but in comparison to a standard dump pipe......completely different car. In my experience all the turbo cars I have had, when you change from a stock dump it, makes so much difference to how the turbo spools/inceased flow/psi etc.

I am keen, but am going to nz from the 19/12 through to new years. Maybe make up a thread with a poll? and sell me your wheels? <IMG class=bbc_emoticon alt= src="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/whistling.gif">

Thanks SR....also, a mate of mine (after taking mine for a spin) has bought another blue m35 RS from nagoya motors....I am sure he will pop on here soon and come to the next cruise

I think my front radar grill would look funny with no badge at all, the infiniti badge still makes people say wtf is that

I agree black is nicer, Redicorp/pvp imports/sinergy motorsport in adelaide can comply m35's, they are on the raws list for m35s...i thought, god knows about 2005 axis model though http://raws.infrastructure.gov.au/rawswebpublic/rawpubmain.asp

Dont wanna spend $57 on badges...

Got my car buffed, roof and bonnet lightly sanded, and removed badges......photos dont show how good the paint really looks...... Also jasevr4, sell me your wheels then?

Rob from sinergy motorsports (adl) drive car [2005 axis/chocolate interior/v36 brakes] Thought it was pretty cool and I'd take some pics (havent seen a series 2 axis) .....don't know about the eyelids<BR><BR>

there only low res, pm me your email I'll send the pic of your car if you want

Slippy: Tint didn't cost me anything (mates rates), complete windscreens on main north road, 35% as i want to keep it legalish (my privacy glass has tint on it aswell [not legal]). Tell them I I told you to come in and they'll do you a deal. Daleo: The swaybar links ("rod stabelizer and connecting stabelizer" is what it says on my invoice) were replaced under warranty with no part numbers on the invoice (from japan they took 2 weeks). My mate works in parts for nissan and he got me the part numbers though...... RH= 54618-aq300 LH= 54668-aq300 both ex japan 10-15 days

Great day, nice to meet you all, next time more stags!.........few quick pics that i took

replaced both front swaybar links, and bushes, and tinted my front windows

me too please

Yeah I know I still need new wheels and to put my other front struts in.......

didnt fix it actually it stuffed up again tonight ....

I now have to go to mannum on saturday and maybe staying the night. So will hopefully come and meet up with all of you once I know where and when the cruise is going......

Cleaned the grill and sensor and hey presto it works again.......thanks heaps Yeah 110kmh sucks but eventually I'll get larger rolling diameter wheels and tires to make it actually 110kmh or higher

yeah I just ziptied them too, dont have a clue about the boost sensor though, I am just running evrything stock (no boost controller etc)

So crisis is over, took of the engine cover to find this.........thank F*%K.....put pipe back on, cleared code drove around the block, idle is sweet and no check engine light .....please delete thread mods

So I cleaned my cruise control radar on the weekend and now my cruise works perfectly again. Let my car idle for 5 minutes after a big drive when i got home, . Go to turn it off and the check engine light is on, I thought it would just be the brake pedal sensor, took for a spin with the brake pedal switch "off" and it still didn't clear. So this morning I checked the codes and I get 0235 and 0171 0235 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction 0171 System too Lean (Bank 1) Anyway I am pretty Stoked , thinking maybe boost solenoid is caput? anyone else ever had a fauly like this? Please help if you can Also at idle I get a very little miss I can hear and just see on the tacho, so going to do plugs etc aswell...............

I agree and while your at it you may as well get these http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page19.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/x198204873&thumb=http://f4.auctions.c.yimg.jp/f46batchimg.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/9/5/0/5/rsrdirect-thumb-1318071188807049.jpg&title=1av%20M35

not my scene but, was looking on IM and found these http://www.importmon...20M35%20LED%204 ^^^kit and..... http://www.importmon...9.jpg&title=M35 ....and the "better" ones vvv http://www.importmon...title=M35%20LED

I just have a switch in the top of my glove box, once every 2 or so full tanks I get the check engine light on. Open the glove box, flick the switch, and a couple of brake applications and the light goes off in under a minute.

When I did this mod, I can easily tell the difference with the stall test (my car is stock), with my switch off you stall it up, it slowly revs, it only gets to a certain rev and the wheels slowly spin, with the switch on it revs up a lot quicker and spins the wheels ALOT more wit higher revs. I dont stall it up to that extent at all really, but out of corners in the hills it is very noticeable also.

Sorry didn't even think about the digital-analog (480etc)......... 99.9% sure I cant change it to ntsc