IDO 11S R32

I would aim for a mid to low 11s pass, if you get any better then thats a bonus, dont get your hopes up for a 10 sec pass, The Dutton GTR has 400awkw and has great suspension, tyres and gearbox has been done. He ran a best time of 10.2, but thats everything done and that is a race car.

It will beat a stock GTR, it depands on what power and mods have been done to the GTR, you cant just say a 300rwkw GTST will beat a gtr, do you think it will beat a 400awkw GTR, no! Anyway my mate has an R33 GTST with about 310rwkw, his best time so far has been an 11.8 at WSID, that was on slicks. SO you should expect to be in the low 12s to high 11s, whic is an awesome time.

I dont know if anyone remembers but I am suposed to be racing my mates TT Supa at the end of the year, looks like he is pulling out though, last time I spoke to him he said he was looking at buying an R34 GTR. I said, "So you've woken up to yourself and gonna get a real car." He didn't like that and insisted that his Supra would kill my GTR, I say, bring it to the track then and lets race! I dont think he will, I embarresed him last time, running a 12.8 @ 106mph, he ran a 13.7 @ 101mph or something like that, and that was with slicks, I was running shitty cheap faulkens!! With my car in full street trim. When I'm done I will be going to the track (with or without him) and will let you guys know when I do.

If thats the case then I will leave the pump for now, as with the cams, yes GTS4WD, you are exactly right, a good broad powerband will be alot better on the street then a short burst of massive power up top. But from what I have been told the turbos I have choosen, 2860R-5 are a good all round turbo, which depending on who you talk to are on par/better/worse then the HKS25/30. Which was the origional turbos I wanted, CRD advised that the 2860-5 are a better turbo. Right now I have the R34 Turbos which are T25's ball bearing turbos, they are quite good and make excellent power down low with a really good midrange, but they die up top, now I have driven my mates r33 GTR with stock turbos, T28's and you can feel the difference. The R33 is a little more laggy, but when they come on they pull much stronger. Now i am told that the 2860R-5 are only a little more laggy then stock T28 Turbos but come on much harder. I could still go for the 2860R-7 which is slightly smaller, should flow about 300awkw but with same lag as stock turbos or slightly less. I dont want to touch the head just yet as the finances dont allow. I have spent quite abit of money on bolt on parts, I want to fit it all and see how it goes, If I am not happy or want to take it further then I can look at other avenues like doing the head. But at this stage I dont want to push more then 350awkw as CRD have stated that I shouldnt push it past this with the stock head and sump as it can cause problems, so in reality a power target of between 320-350awkw is what I will be aiming for, so I could use the -7 for this power level but I dont want to have to change the turbos again down the track if I want to take it to the next level which will be 400awkw. Obviously to achive this the motor will have to come out and be checked properly with all the right parts being added. But as most people have said at that power level it will be really expensive as I will also have to consider suspension/tyres/brakes/gearbox/diffs/driveshafts etc... So I am taking it one step at a time, this being the 1st step..

Blitz, why is it not ok to run 14psi on an 89 model as aposed to other models???

It should be safe, depending on the condition of your turbos. No one can say when its going to break, its mechanical, but common sence says 14psi is safe for stock turbos. My mate has an R33 GTR, stock turbos, just fitted apexi pod filters, cam gears and power FC, is also running apexi AVCr boost controler. Now he runs 21psi through stock turbos, has been for the last 6-7 years that he has owned the car. I took the car down to CRD for him to have the cam gears fitted and tuned, Jim almost fell out of the car when he saw what boost he was running, with stock turbos, I said, "Well thats what he always runs." which is true, car made 260awkw at 21psi. Jim turned it down to a safer 19psi and the car made 250awkw, now this is still well above what recomended and regarded as safe for stock turbos, but like I said he has been running this ammount of boost since he bought the car about 6-7 years ago and the car still runs perfect. Car is an R33 V spec. Its quick, people say it will break, but it hasnt yet and he flogs the shit out of it. So its like I said, its mechanical you just dont know when it will break, you just have to be prepared to fix it when it does, but the amswer to your question is: You are running the highest recomended boost level for your turbos.

Thanks for that, great thread, so can you confirm what your final specs are? I take it the car is not back together yet? Let me know what power figure you get. If you check out ignition latest dvd there is a story on an R32 GTR with the same mods as what we are doing, only difference is it has an extended sump and baffle kit, as well as restrictor plate in the head. These are only for reliability though and dont do anything for outright power. He made 400awkw, and with a good suspension and tyre package he ran a 10.2 q/m. He races this car in tarmack rallies with numerous wins. Awsome car, I couldnt believe the spec sheet when it was comming up on the screen, exactly what we are doing. and with the 2860R-5 turbos. Its the Dutton R32 GTR. Check it out if you get a chance.

You can actually fit 6x9 with some minor mods, I went for a pair of clarion 6x9 as they have excellent clarity and are not too bassy, they sound awsome, just needed some spacers which also needed to be modified,but they fit behind the door trim and sound great for a total cost of about $180.

The boys at CRD said the cams would not make much difference at top end, would just help the midrange and bring the turbos on boost earlier. It does have a set of adjustable cam gears (Trust). My mate who is helping me put the motor together, (mechanic) said if I do the cams then should also do the oil pump at the same time, he believes he should be able to do the oil pump without removing the engine. But now I would like to conform this. Does the engine need to come out to do the oil pump? If the engine comes out then I will also to the sump extension, but then this starts to get real expensive, and Im not cashed up for this just yet. Anyway will do some more research and see how I go.

Well from I have learnt the 2860-5 are good for 400awkw, so I am hoping with a soft tune and not too many revs it should comfortably make somewhere between 330awkw and 360awkw. I will speak too the boys at CRD when it is being tuned,but will tell them to keep the rev limit to 8500rpm, or even 8000rpm. The way it is now, it revs to 9000rpm but its pointless as it stops making decent power after about 6. It now makes 235awkw, but no rev limiter which is why it has seen 9000rpm, it has caught me off guard a couple of times when I have smashed it in 1st, I would prefer to keep the revs a little lower as I am after reliability, I will be driving the car every day.

I thought the N1 was a direct replacement? I was hoping not to have to pull the motor out. I have the whole front of the car off. Am changing to the PFC because the EMS is an old piece of S$%T, it can only be tuned with the hand controler and cant control ignition. It is spliced into the stock ecu and I believe it only acts as a piggy back controling fuel only. So a PFC will be the easiest most reliable option, or so I have been told. I am mainly going off the advice from Jim at CRD. I told him a power figure I wanted, he told me what I needed to do to get there. If it is too difficult I will leave the oil pump and cams for now. I am not sure what oil pump is in it, It may already have an aftermarket pump as the motor was done before I purchased the car, Like I said it has forged internals, so if the builder was done then they should have done the pump anyway.

Thanks for all the comments guys, but can anyone help with some info on how to get the turbos off this thing, How the hell do you get to the bolts where the manifold bolts to the head???? cant get to the lower bolts, and getting the oil lines off?? Thats another story. Yes I will definatly be making up some sware words. Im on holidays at the moment so will be hitting it hard. I will post some pics of the progress tomorrow. Had an easy day today, but tomorrow??? This will probably be me. I am estimating the total build cost to be 35k including the price of the car, This is what I am trying to stick to. I want to see what I can build for 35k. bought the car for 18k, oil cooler $900, Splitfire coil packs, $600, intercooler $1300, hard pipe kit $600, Turbos, $2450, power fc DeJetro $1250, APexi intake kit $500, oil catch can $220, inj $600, fuel press reg $125. I have already done the brakes, $500 (Pads and machine disks), Depending on finances will also do cams? but this requires alot more work so I havnt decided yet? already bought a N1 oil pump as well, so might do cams and oil pump at the same time. Cams $900, oil pump got for $250. SO I'm still well within budget, but also spent $600 on stereo, and want to do a custom leather interior witch I have been quoted $2700. Wish me luck!!

Hi guys and girls my build has begun. Today I started the build and any assistance on how to do some things would be greatly appriciated. I was going to leave this for a while but it developed a massive exhaust leak so I started early. Today I stripped the whole front of the car down as I will be building this at home. Car: R32 GTR forged internals, stock head. I just bought a Trust bar and plate cooler, Trust oil cooler and relocation kit, cam gears, 700cc sard injectors, nismo fuel pressure reg, Trust hard pipe kit, Blitz blow off valve. Car already has HKS dump pipes and full Trust exhaust with a EMS ecu, however I will also be changing this to a power FC DeJetro, this is because the car is currently running a single throtle body with map sensors. I will also be purchasing an Apexi DeJetro induction kit. The turbos I was going to run are the Garrett 2860R-5, I have these on order at CRD. The car will be tuned bu the boys at CRD and I will post up the results when all is completed, aiming for 350awkw. Now if anyone can give some suggestions on how to easily remove the turbos??? Some of the bolts are HELL to get to. I have also found that my exhaust leak was caused bu two of the manafold studs breaking? any idea how to remove these from the head? I have removed the intercooler and all piping. If anyone has cheap turbo gaskets which will fit my application, also after manifold gasket for exhaust, and water lines to turbos as mine are quite worn. Can still be used but will replace if I can find some good ones. And so it begins

I actually have the bathursts from that era, I have been recording the races since 91 and have every Bathurst, In that era the GTR's had SH#T brakes and were quite heavy, and had not much development, I think you could build an R32 GTR that would give a current V8SC a run for its money round any track, but as has already been said these cars ran on two different sets of rules so if you were going to race them what rules would you be using??? If you watch the 1990 bathurst where a Walkinshaw won against the GTR you will see that across the top of the mountain the Walky smashed the GTR, but down the straights the GTR smashed everything in its path, in its time it had unrivaled acceleration. As they developed the car the brakes got better as did the car and it was unbeatable, but remember back then the V8s were only producing about 450-500hp. And im sure that if you bought a GTR in 1990 and told someone that you were going to build a street car with 400awkw and it would be a daily driver and a 2.6l 6, they would tell you that your full of shit! where as with todays tecnology this is achieved with ease and people will say so your keeping it tame then. Remember the 1st horsepower heros at summernats, not that long ago, the car that won made something like 400rwhp, and people thought that was amazing, today we are seeing 4 digit numbers, so what I am trying to say is the tecnology is different today so unless someone actually does this we will never know. P.S: If anyone gets a chance hire or buy the 1990 Bathurst 1000, its an awesome watch, they call the GTR a computer on wheels, amazed by its technology, they cant stop raving about it. Two years later they were cursing it, if anyone remembers in the last season of group A racing CAMS slapped 200kg on the GTR in an attempt to slow it down and it still dominated, it was well ahead of its time thats for sure. Thats my 2cents!

Blind elk, you are a legend!!!!. I have found the problem to my 4wd nightmare. It was the throtle position sensor. This is how it all went wrong. Now my car has had a single throtle body conversion done, why I dont know, but it has been done. On the single throtle body there is no TPS, so when blind elk said to check the TPS I counldnt as there was none. What I forgot that just prior to this problem occurring and in fact the day I installed the TSC I decided to clean up the engine bay. The standard throtle body linkage was still in place with the TPS connected, I dosconnected it and drove the car, it went fine, so I removed the whole linkages. Then the problems started. I didnt even think about this, until today I was in my garage thinking about what the hell could be wrong with it, when I saw the linkage sitting on my bench with the TPS attached and thought, hang on!!!!!! I connected it up and whala, it all works perfect. I reinstalled the linkages and connected the TPS and it all works fine now! And so ends my weeks of hell, however no a massive exhaust leak from the manifolds has emerged, will this ever end!! At least I have planned on changing the turbos to N1 2860R-5, I have ordered them but am still waiting for them to arrive. I will check other forums but there is one on installing turbos right? and can it be done at home or will I need a hoist?

you interested in a bike, (Hayabusa)?

So with this switch you can change from 2WD to 4WD without turning the car off?, On an R32 GTR that is, if so put me down for one on the next batch and send me your account details. Thanks

Hi might ne interested in the rear seat if blk180 takes the fronts, could you post up some pics and let me know what you want for the rear seat only? Thanks

Will these fit an R32 GTR and what mods will need to be done?

Hi just looking to be put in the right direction, just bought a SBC I-colour and am going to install it this weekend, just want to know where can I find a set of english instalation instructions and a wiring loom diagram for an R32 GTR 1989. Im going to google search it after I get my kids to bed later on tonight but if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be greatly appriciated. Thanks.

All the guys that are struggling, I feel for you, I am in the same boat, just bought my R32 GTR about 2 months ago, suposed to have forged internals, strengthened crank, H beam rods, r34 ball bearing turbos. Car was running abit rough when I bought it, cast me $1500 to get it going right, was suposed to make about 270-280kw, made 225awkw. Changed the cat to a high flow unit (another $500) back to the dyno, made 235awkw, then ran it at WSID 12.8@106mph. which I thought was ok for a 1st run. Then about a week later, pipe from turbo to intercooler split, ordered Trust cooler piping kit $600, in the meantime I am also looking at upgrading for more power so have ordered new Garrett 28/60R-5 turbos, $2500, and trust intercooler $1300, now I am having a problem with the 4WD ATTESSA system which is constantly locking up, no one can work out what is wrong with it???? and yesterday it was quite hot and I noticed that after driving for about 2 hours the turbos started makeing a funny noise and were struggling to make boost, I was told by a mechanic that it had a exhaust leak between the manafold and the turbos, so hopefully it is only a leak or else I will really have to push for these new turbos. It seems like there is always something going wrong with the car, at least I can say it has never stopped, it has just been a number of niggling problems that annoy the shit out of you!! But like what some of the other guys have said "Thats the price for owning a true supercar" Look at it this way you are getting Ferrari performance, and a Ferrari costs about 30k a year just for servicing, or so I've heard. I drive my GTR every day and enjoy every minute of it but it does get annoying when things constantly go wrong, but with new turbos, boost controller, piping kit, oil cooler, cams, power fc, etc... hopefully I'll have a strong reliable performance car. Good luck to me and all my fellow GTR owners, I think they shoud have spelt GTR like this $$$.

Yes I checked the connections, they are all fine. I even disconnected the unit from the car but it still had the same problem? Took the car to CRD today they dont know what is wrong with it, it is now booked in for next tuesday so they can go over the car and see if they can find the problem. Will let everyone know what it was when we have it sorted.

Can anyone also give some advice on how to bleed the ATTESSA system? Can I do it at home?

If the center clutch pack is stuffed, how do I fix this? What sort of money am I looking at, and where should I take it to get it fixed? I live in Western Sydney near WSID. How sure can you be that its the clutch packs?

NO, but did check the fluid level, it is slightly overfull. I recently changed diff and gearbox oils, first I thought I had blown the diff, or it was on the way out at least, but it makes no noise, very little diff slap and works perfectly when in 2wd mode.????