IDO 11S R32

Yes its personal choice, I like the look of the R32, which is why I bought one, but being older you will probably tend to have more niggleing problems with them, and its the little things that give you the s$#ts when they go wrong, the R33 is probably the better choice as it is newer but it really comes down to personal choice. Goodluck!

Some pics as promised

MAyby R Rated but 100% TRUE! the only thing you missed was that the Skyline is marginally better because it doesnt talk back!

Hi, the car is comming along fine, Its been back on the road for a little while now and everything seems to be working well, only problem is that the rear HICAS rack has started leaking so im thinking about replaceing it with a lock bar and getting rid of the HICAS al together. As for performance the car goes good with boost comming on early and heaps of mid range torque. But I havent had it tuned yet. I have all the parts to complete it but just need some time and I have to make sure I have the money to tune it before I finish. This left to go are: I have to fit the injectors, boost controler and Power FC. Once this is done I can get it tuned and it will be finished. Fitting of the parts isnt too much of a problem as I can do it myself but the tune will cost me about 1K, and I am spending all my money on my Karts at the moment, as the karting season is about to begin. It will be finished soon though, in terms of presentation it is pretty much complete and looks really good, Ill post some photos soon, Ive even had a few comments on the street, the other day I had some guy drive along beside me taking photos of the car! Then he gave me the thumbs up. Its been a long and tiring process but Im nearly there. I have een driving it nearly every day and it hasnt missed a beat so far, and it not even tuned. I am looking forward to feeling the end result when I burry the right foot though. The best thing about driving it untuned is that Im not thrashing it so Im getting almost good fuel economy . Anyway will post pics soon, and look forward to going on a SAU cruise when Im done. Keep in touch

WRXHOON is probably on the money, dont know about needing a new block though. Although if you want 100% reliability you probably should consider an N1 block or somthing similar. I have just about finished building mine and I have spent somewhere in the regin of 10k, and my motor already had forged internals. I am aiming for the same power figure as you. I have chosen a set of garret 2860R-5, I got these from CRD for $2500 I have a set of Trust cam gears, trust oil cooler, trust bar and plate intercooler, trust hard pipe kit, trust type R plumb back BOV, sard 720cc inj, nismo fuel pressure reg, apexi power fc dejetro, (using this cause mine has had a single throttlebody conversion), blitz duel solinoid boost controller. I have the car together now and it drives ok, (havnt fitted computer or boost controler or inj yet) so car in not tuned for this set up. But from what I can feel the turbos are really responsive and continue to make boost well into the upper end of the rev range. I will have it finished and tuned by mid jan so will let you know how it goes. I didnt pull mine apart and as far as I know it is still running a stock oil and water pump. ANyway good luck with your build!

Its been a while since I have posted, the car is still off the road but I'm getting there, I'm also getting sick of catching the train to work because I have no bloody car!. Its been hard work But I am finally getting it together, I have fitted the turbos, exhaust, coolers and BOV, and it took alot of work with the grinder to get the cooler in! Now I just have to tighten up the manifolds and fit all the top piping and it should be right to start. I finally got my Power FC from Nungen, but I wont install it until I get the money together to get it tuned, samed with the 700cc injectors and boost controller. I should have it on the road on Sunday. Will let you know how it goes!

Have you tried justjap, they can get genuine stuff, try and steer clear of aftermarket badges, I bought two for my GTR and they were extreemly poor quality and faded after less then a month on the car. The genuine stuff might be expensive but you get what you pay for and they look 10 times better.

YEah, but you dont have to shoot the mesanger, I was just stating what I read, it could be buls%$t, I dont know. It was in the december issue of Motor mag.

In the current issue of motor magazine it states quote "3.8 litre twin turbo V6, featuring exotic materials such as plasma sprayed bores (requiring a tear down service program each 12 months!)" end quote. What does this mean? I dont know but if someone could shed some light on the situation it would be nice to know, sounds expensive though!

For the 1st problem I would first cheak all the fuses before going to an auto elect, if it is a fuse blown then change it, if it blows again take it to an auto elect. For the 2nd problem, sounds like the latch has moved, check the position of the latch which is on the car not the boot lid, there should be a bolt holding it in place, you can loosen the bolt and adjust the hook. The boot should close easily, this problem you can fix yourself. Goodluck

Hi all, the build has come to a hault for a while now, the car has been sitting in pieces while I decide what to do. I have been thinking about the oil problems associated with the RB26 motor, now assuming mine has stock oil pump and crank and being a 89 model and the fact that my bank account is low I am weighing up my options. To go the whole hog will cost upwards of $5k which I cannot afford right now. But what are your opinions on this setup, I am thinking about fitting a Tomei sump baffle kit, Jun crank collar, N1 oil pump, Tomei metal head gasket with restrictor plates fitted, while the head is off I will obviously send it away for a service and have the oil return galleries drilled. Now I have the N1 pump and can get the other parts from nengun for about $750 delivered. I am fitting a Trust oil cooler but will still be running the standard sump, with this fitted I would run the motor harder and be aiming for higher HP level but what are your opinions on reliability with this sort of setup? Also can anyone give me a rough price on what to expect to service the head and drill out the oil return galleries? Anyone know who can fit the Jun crank collar and can it be done with the crank fitted, I will have the motor out of the car if I do this as it will have to come out to do the sump baffle anway. I was going to leave this and address it later but it has been dragging on so I am thinking that while the car is off the road I might do the job properly, it will take me abit longer to finish as I will be spending money before I get it!!!! Bloddy car is sending me broke! I live in Sydney so need someone in Sydney to fit the collar.

Same here, still waiting for the switch, paid for it a month ago and still havent recieved anything!

A mate of mine has a Power FC boost controller, it came with a Power FC that he bought but he already has an Apexi AVC-R so he would probably wont use it. Now this is from an R33 GTR, let me know if you are interested and please make sure it fits your PFC first, we are in Sydney but can post, I will ask him what he wants for if you are interested or you can make an offer and I will tell him.

Hi, still waiting for the switch? paid nearly three weeks ago and still waiting?

I stated that the car is running an N1 pump, also numerous people from this site have also stated they are running N1 oil pumps and making good power with no problems, I have read some threads from this site and others, and from what people have said the N1 pumps generally only break if you bounce the engine off the rev limiter constantly. I am only stating what I have read, like I said I am no expert and dont claim to be!

Im no expert, but I can tell you what I know from what I have seen and read. We all know that a stock RB26 bottom end is good for 600hp and an N1 motor is better again with the stronger block, better pistons etc.. Now if it has stock N1 oil and water pump I think they would be good enough as long as you do the sump extension and baffle kit etc etc.. Just look at the last edition of ignition at the Duton R32 GTR, over 400awkw with an N1 oil pump, people will tell you that N1 oil pumps are sh#t but that is a race car that gets flogged every time it goes out and its running an N1 oil pump with no problems. All your bolt on parts should fit as I believe they are essentially the same motor. I would just check that the mounting points are the same and make sure it will bolt up to your gearbox, however im sure if it doesnt there would be an adaptor plate available, you wouldnt be the 1st person to do this. As for diferences in the motor, Im not sure, I know the crank is different but you would leave the 34 crank in as is is better then the 32 item, everything else in the motor should be N1 gear which unless is badly worn or broken shouldnt be changed. But again either take it to someone or get someone you know who is a good mechanic to look at it before installing it. You will probably want to change bearings and re-ring it as it would basicly be a fresh engine then, if you get the head off make sure you fit a good quality metal head gasket so you can push more boost safely. But Just think about this, if you are going to do a full build, pistons, rods, etc.. you might want to look at buying an N1 block from here, your head will bolt straight on and will probably be cheaper then buying a complete motor and binning all the internals. Anyway Ive probably just confused you, at the end of the day ots your decision, you have to decide what you want and then go for it. Good luck

Yeah Ill try not to. Just bought a new genuine GTR badge for the rear, looks TOPS, when I bought the car I replaced the origional badge with an aftermarket one but it looked shit, the red was really off colour, this one cost $95 but looks great!!!! Now if I can only get the engine back together so I can drive the thing!!

Just out of curiosity what is the N1 engine worth, and where are you getting it from in Japan?

I know that they come standard with the Garrett 2860R-7, with a boost controler and power FC you should be able to get about 300awkw from the stock motor. You will however need bigger injectors to achieve this and at that power level I dont know how the reliability will be in terms of you oil feed situation. As with all RB motors, you could run the risk of spinning a bearing, I believe all the oil galleries and sump are as standard. Personally I think it will be fine if you are using it just for the street but most people will tell you to fix the problem properly before installing the engine. However keep in mind that this will probably lead to a full engine rebuild which will cost $$$$$. I think the best solution will be to just add a high volume sump and baffle kit before installing the engine, you can get away with this for about $1500 and it will improve reliability. But you really should speak with a good engine builder, one who is experienced with the GTR and get advice from them, make sure you know what you want from the engine before installing it and build it appropriatly. If you have to buy turbos, I would go for the Garrett 2860R-5. If your local to Sydney call Croyden Racing. Speak with them, they know the GTR like the back of there hands, they will put you in the right direction. Personally I think the N1 engine is an awsome platform for a build. Sort the oil problem out and a good set of turbos will make an awsome motor which should make big HP. Goodluck

Finally got the two broken studs out of the head, also removed the radiator today and sent it away to be flushed and cleaned properly. Ive bought all new hoses and gaskets, Im replacing all the studs with high tensile units including nuts. Some time this week I will be transfering all lines and dump pipes over to the new turbos, then they will be going on. Once this is done it will be a masive weight off my shoulders as this is prabably the biggest part of the job, next I will install the oil cooler and intercooler, and should be able to fire it up then! Still will be a couple of solid days work to get it there. Wish me luck, and that I dont run into any more problems!!!!

P.S: Got one of the broken studs out of the head today, now just one more to go!!, this ones being difficult though. Will try again tomorrow armed with some more tools! Once I have this out I will give the engine bay a clean and it will be ready to be put back together. Im hoping to get it back on the road in the next month.

Yes, but unfortunantly I dont have the stock BOV, when I bought the car it had been fitted with this Blitz to atmosphere BOV, however I have just purchased a brand new Trust Type R plumb back BOV with 2in connections. This will be easy to fit on my car with no modifications required, it is fully adjustable and should be suitable for any aplication I care to throw at it.

Turbos out!!! and thank bloody god for that, actually only took 2 hours with the help of a mate, found that not only was there a exhaust leak from the manifold (caused by two studs braking) but the rear turbo had blown out the gasket on the dump pipe. Anyway will be replacing all the studs (after I get the two broken ones out ) and also replacing all the gaskets and banjo bolt washers, will then transfer all the parts onto the new turbos and then fitting them. Now I have a quick question. The car currently is running a Blitz to atmosphere BOV, I want to replace this to a plumb back BOV, so whats a good BOV that will connect to the return piping? Will post pics soon

Just picked up two brand new Garrett 2860R-5's today, should have the turbos off tomorrow and will be fitting everything this weekend. Fingers crossed! I need my car, its been SH#T driving my misses commo everywhere!

Hi, also wondering if you recieved the money I put in your account on the 23rd October and if you have posted the switch?