DR 32R

There's a billet gear N1 pump, for sale on the forums. Seeing you have spun a bearing, any oil system/control mods planned?I'm running a nismo pump, oil restrictors and bigger sump on my 25/26.

Yet to hear from Bob grant as to whether he can build a tough enough Jatco. know where one is Chris!

Short block bits coming together soon. sorry just quick blackberry pics.

Seeing if I can improve this thread with some pics. The GTS4. Low res low focus phone pics at this stage, bear with me.

Does he mean twin pumps? Then LOL. If he means he wants you to get a NITTO tomei, JUN greddy or nismo instead of your N1, he may be appropriately cautious. Every time a Read an RB oil control thread there are differences of opinion, but nearly every established builder runs restrictors with a high flow pump.I believe the neo is a solid head that doesn't need that much oil.

Take it to someone with a shop full of RBs, and a driveway full of RB powered vehicles. Who drives an RB powered vehicle. Bring him a holden 253 or falcon 6.I consider someone who does a lot of VL turbos the 'minimum standard".What is the volume of your sump? if it is large 8-9 L ?May compensate for the lack of oil restriction. If your billet gears are reimax (are you sure they are?) they may well NOT empty a special sump. It seems more like the Nitto, Tomei, Jun pumps that are more super high pressure and flow. Perhaps the need for some/all of the possible "oil control" mods are exaggerated. A link stating N1 is not all that high flowing... http://webbersrbguid...nical&Itemid=22

No hater of VLs. KEAS and MV automatics know these boxes well. I have a strong recommendation to Bob Grant Automatics. Where was yours built?Most of my quotes aimed at 350kw have been large.

Very impressive work! Well done

I think the bonnet shuts real easy on rb25.

Mind listing a part number,consider copycating if this works.

Nice looking rb22, I'll be interested in how it gos.

Now I'll swap my manley rods for your eagles!

Welcome to gts4 ownership! I like them and am biased. I think the front diff and transfer case are fine removing the fuse. Why? You've now got posts from 3 different gts4, to stagea rb25 engine up graders. If you stay with the rb20, there is a sticky on turbos and upgrades in "forced induction performance".

If it's a cheap priced Jun, I'll take it. It may well outlast the rest of the RB engine.

I think he's right!

Another satisfied 6 boost customer.

If you have 500hp and use it, oil starvation is a real issue. Go for a better sump.

I'd consider using it. The billet Gears are strong. Might be better than a new N1. Inspect carefully.

I got Manley rods, new in box because they were cheaper at the time than Eagles. If you have Eagles new why not spend the money on something else? The engine life may depend more on machining, assembly balance, then eagle vs Manley, and the oil system, do you have a billet gear oil pump yet?

Like your wheel choice.

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-project-cars/41614-baddest-gts-4-ever-always-updating.html Thread showing rb26 in gts4

rb25 cheap make the kw, still be responsive.

Sounds like you ought to try the hks3037 then.

If you picked a sensible power figure above a stock GTR, I'm sure I would get there more cheaply starting with a gts4, than buying a gtr and upgrading it. Similar to the post above.You already have a GTR chassis with an unflared body. Consider the nz gts4 below.

Looking at the rb25 sticky, the hks 3037 is making 280-300kw, is that acceptable? A built rb26 is probably better than the rb25s in the sticky thread. There are established good response, better power twin low mounts, set ups well described. I like the simplicity of a single setup.