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Spotted my car, all clean and tidy ready to be sold, I have a buyer coming this weekend!

Have an auto electrician look at the imobiliser, sounds like it cut in and won't turn off.

Price drop to $12,000. I'm running out of rego on this car and I'm not using it anymore.

I only have what's listed in the first post, why are you asking for parts I'm not selling?

I have no idea why you think I have that for sale, it's not listed in my first post.

I'm just curious, I've had this problem occur with my old 040 and was wondering if it might have been caused by something else? I've replaced the pump, but I just wanted to make sure it won't happen again and wreck another pump. Has anyone had a similar experience or know enough about the RB25DET's fuel system to know what part failure might cause the pump to make this noise?

are you sure they have individual fuses? it sounds like a dodgy fuse problem if they're going at the same time. otherwise maybe your light stalk on the steering column has a short / broken connection.

your plugs may be loose. I had the same problem in mine and replaced the plug, it's fine now.

interested in the brake calipers and rotors, how many K's had the car done before the accident? also are they still available?

Rear boot kits X4 39741-05U28 Front right outer and Front left outer 39241-50A92 (supplement BY18E-61209) Front right inner 39741-02A90 Front left inner 39741-05U85 This is for a Series 1 RS-Four

definately fresh air vent actuator, mine went when i bought my car. very easy to remove, then you just leave it open. i haven't bothered to fix it, it works for what i need it for now.

i just sold my sad old VL for $400, damnit... I should have kept it now.

An old housemate of mine did exactly that with his Exa and fixed it. when using the pen, it's advisable to use 2 strips of tape to make a thing line along the demister wire so you don't end up with a big fat silver line on your rear window.

That's unfortunate. it might be something much more simple than that, I've done 215,000km on my engine and it hasn't missed a beat. I replaced the big end bearing seal at 200,000km though, which may have helped. Have you checked the TPS, CAS or Knock sensor? always start with the cheapest item that could make those symptoms then work your way up.

R34 for Stagea, R33 won't fit. get genuine or a good brand set, i put generic pedders ones in and they didn't last 10,000km

I did manual conversion, and i will never do it again. I've had a bad run with dodgy gearboxes, but aside from that, there's no value in buying an auto just to convert it, you're better off getting a manual one already.

damn, i wish i had known that a while back. i'm doing a lot of country driving through roo country and a bar like that would be very handy. too bad i'm selling the car now.

the pump is on the drivers side about halfway back in the tank

that bull bar is awesome, did you make it yourself? i've always wanted to get one on my car but i didn't think they existed.

why do you have a spare stagea tailgate?

that commercial pretty much answers it, and that's how it is pronounced.

hehe, I sure have. I've been towed from Sydney to Bathurst, and now from Coolah to Bathurst. I'm glad I have Premium membership, that's all I can say. I've bought a new car already so I can properly attempt to sell the Stagea, so I can just fix this in my own time now.

PM sent

The japanese translation from Hirigana is 'Sutejia' which is broken up to be pronounced 'su-te(tay)-ji-a' so i've always said it 'Stage-ee-ah'. and I've had my stagea longer than most people on the forum, so i trump most.

yeah, problem with that is i bought the thing about 2 years ago and never fitted it until now. it sucks, but what can you do. I don't think it was directly the dirty fuel, more the dirty filter clogged up wearing out the pump bearings.