GTScotT

lol and your reason for wanting the low mount? If you want the T67 power, then get the T67 power lol. Here is the packaging constraint version: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD06S-25G-T3-V-Band-/290581425241?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a800ac59 Buy it now?

We are yet to test the SL2 but it definitely looks promising. It wont be no 10 second turbo, like the T67, but it will make for a formidable street car. The Idea behind the SL2 is to have a SUB 300kw car with AS MUCH midrange power with the widest band as possible. First decide what you want, then pick the parts to do it.

My point exactly. The owner has commented that they said they could try adjust the cam gears but this is the best they could do. The owner has queried the issue and soon we will see if it was a lack of commitment to the job that let him down. Short of not knowing how, all the above mentioned issues are something the shop should have tried to track down for the customer, not knowing how is something they should omit to the customer if it is the case. Agreed, yet I am not slagging them. I am merely saying we will see if it was a lack of commitment or not. So, we will see.

Here's hoping it comes back a monster! Perhaps a definitive answer on AVO's business ethics while were at it. We can see if they really were just too lazy to do better for the customer.

Man if you are going to do that just ditch the T04S thing and put that $150 towards the $750 killer replacement. In the end if you are still not impressed with your above mentioned option, your next most economical option is to swap in a proper GT30 CHRA... $_$... Just get the SL2 with me.. We can tandem click buy it now! I'm ready to buy lol

Remember turbine flow changes the dynamic ability of a turbo. The garrett housings from GT30 to GT35 are actually the same item, just ground out to fit the bigger wheel. Now think why does a little 3076 struggle to make power and have overheating problems etc with the .63 yet a 35R isnt that bad with it? 35Rs will do a neat 330 with the .63, I see it often on toymods with people running 1JZ's. I think staying with the known working item is best mate. We know 44mm works with big flow and tight housings, and the price is said to be right for a TIAL 44mm, just go that unless you want to be super stinge and go 70 buck JJR 38mm lol. And hey I wouldnt argue for trying...

The Hypergear ATR43 SS-1 is the closest true cut cost comparison. It will set you back half as much and wont disappoint on results either. By no means am I saying it is as good, better or worse. I am saying it is about as close as you will get to 'similar' performance without spending the said dollar value. Please find the hypergear thread and read up on the said item. There were a few revisions, currently he sells an SS-1 and an SS-2. The SS-1 you will see a real world 240+ (tests have seen 262 AFAIK with users not under 240) and the SS-2 has seen over 300kw (320 AFAIK) with users reporting very good throttle feel and response. Obviously the SS-2 will exhibit more lag than the SS-1 but on the sponsors test car it has shown to be pretty reasonable (better than a 3076). A few things extra to note, uses factory exhaust positioning (great for saving LOTS of money), can be made to be VERY STEALTHY, low failure rate (to which warranty has never been skipped or avoided) and excellent customer service. Read the thread.

For which set turbo? Sorry to be a pain as I think specifics are important. From what I know and believe power is directly related to flow, so an SR making 440ps from an 8cm housing should be equal for the same turbo doing it on an RB. The displacement changes at what RPM intervals it can do it at and can be what makes it nose dive over in the top RPM. A good comparo for me is the GTRS, where it makes similar power from RB to SR (as it is the same turbo) but with the said difference in character. The problem I see when comparing motors is the motors own efficiency at the said RPM when it will max out the turbo. It may just not have the flow in itself to let the turbo shine, and may cause it to nose dive even harder. The reason I picked on the above is because SR's do a lot more than 240kw on an 8cm rear, and people here are obviously exceeding 280kw with a 10cm. Even Roy has 260 with an 8cm. The difference is obviously the turbine flow, thus my question to which specific turbo you refer.

Do you work for full race? If so pass on my feedback regarding sponsor based results to get the things selling.

If your willing to be clever, you can get a "T518Z" from kando for 700 bucks. TD05H-18G in an SR20 bolt on form (internal gate) which is the trust style item. As mentioned above, strong results on SR's. I dont think you would need a 10cm housing for the said unit, however the clever part is what you will do about it being T2 based. See if that dudes RB20 with bolt on adapter works out and that will tell you if this combo will also work. That would meet and exceed what you are describing above. However, be it myself I would probably look to work with what ive got.. If its an RB20 turbo you should be able to go to a R33 2IU rear housing for a MINOR increase in AR. Pick up a dud housing and have HG grind it out to the right size for you. Thats likely to be what I would do, that or an OP6 rear housing with your existing working unit.

Im running a 1JZ and cost is a major factor for me, so GTRS is not so much of an option. Believe me I savor internal gate like nothing else but my options are not to my liking. On the GTRS note, I could just get its T2 footprint counterpart but miss out on the port shroud option. Plus I believe the 20G is more power with better response than 3071. As for whats under SL2 20G, that could be a great number of things.. That could be a TD06-20G (minor downsize in ex wheel flow), or a TD06 based turbo with an 18G compressor (similar in physical size yet smaller in trim) or you could even look to a TD05H 18G or 16G.. TD05H-16G is whats factory on an evo and has been known to do 230kw at all 4 (2L 4cyl AWD) all day long. The MHI range of turbos delivers.

Youtube shows 1JZs doing 400ps (300ish rwkw) and standing up strong from 3500. That is the said turbo ala Rolls. I cannot wait to buy one for my JZ, but am SOOOOOO tempted to go T67. I was actually planning to create a poll thread for myself (I am willing to click but it now tonight) but maybe we can just discuss it in here? Can I get a show of +1 for 20G or T67? EDIT: I should also mention I am MR SUPER RESPONSE incarnate, however am also needing to school some people who may only be game to drag.

I cannot give specifics, yet a friend with an R34 GTR seemed to get very mediocre results from them.. As do the evo community. Personally I would stick to the known road with this car, RB26 has been done to death.

At the moment I think most people are basing their opinion on the HP rating. The B frame options all meet and exceed the said garrett items on paper, yet the largest of the B has proved itself equal to a 35R for now. I think these turbos are still at the pioneer stage where everyone would rather buy a cheap OR proven item than risk one of these. This would be a good time for BW or Fullrace to step in and do some application based tests. The single turbo GTR that they have could be swapped out for anything B frame plus and retuned to show the realistic potential for each unit, very much hypergear style. I am days away from my proposed purchase date and could still be swayed, if there were more results. I just dont have the cash to be the said pioneer myself.

You are talking about a very small component to create back EMF, however I don't see the harm in using a diode either. Your concern should be load on the EBC should you be planning to run it on the same circuit. Normally running a relay to control it would alleviate any concern. Ive used standard relays to fix alarms that detect EMF for arming when using a turbo timer. Are you concerned about WG creep?

Hypergear has the price and customer service to back his product. There is more than enough results on this site to justify your decision for one if you wanted.. The GCG is simply overpriced IMHO. If you want punch, stick to 250kw. If you do decide to go a HG turbo get one of his SS items, the SS-2 could do 270kw (he has had it to over 300) yet it does cost more (till a lot less than a GCG). The SS-1 should get you atleast 240kw fairly easily and I think has topped 265. Its two things, one is the forum users name on here... The other is a nickname for the 2860RS turbo. In short, the GT2860RS was custom made to suit a drift car that had the name 'Disco Potato'. The outcome was so great that the turbo went into full production and carried the name of the car it was made for, Disco Potato. They are a pretty cool turbo for a small 4 pot, not that special though lol. Best result I've had from one was on a CA18 (car whooped ass), worst was on an SR20 (car did not whoop ass). Best result I've seen from a disco was on a friends SR S13, which got pwn'd by my fairly standard Evo 4 (TD05H 16G 9cm for reference). Hope that answers any real disco potato question you might have lol.

Based on disco's reply, if it is a 2530 then it will suit the GTRS rebuild. The rear housing should need no machining. In theory you could buy a GTRS CHRA and front cover and bolt it together with your rear housing. ZOOM ZOOM. Also, I agree with the above that the 2835 would have the broadest power band available for an unopened RB25. GL

Need more info on said mac valve. You will probably find there wont be many people with hands on experience, but with enough detail those of us with good electronics knowledge may be able to somewhat answer/provide insight.

When you say x-force turbo back, surely you do not mean an x-force turbo back.... X-force do not make a GT30 specific dump pipe, nor would they make one thats GT30/skyline specific. If your dump pipe is an X-force item, then you have a factory shaped dump... And that means we know what rear housing you have also... Please confirm your dump pipe and take photos of its exit from the turbo please.. Please confirm who supplied the turbo for you too.

Has Trent agreed to look at the thing for $100? Start there..

Pretty much a waste, and it sounds like you are looking at the wrong supplier for that line of turbo anyway. Make sure you are looking at Kando Dynamic and not some other ebay crap. The RB20 will need some work to exceed the 20G's potential.. The T67 is a LOT more turbo and will need a lot more to drive it. Really it is only the compressor thats different.. But you get that.

Cheltenham is Vic isnt it? Dont you have the flagship ECU for SAU's flagship tuner? Get your ass down to Status and tell AVO where to stick it. I have never used status but this forum shows nothing but good rep and someone punting a BIG market on poor business ethics. In lamens terms he is too well known on such a large scale to not do right by you, it would cost him too much business to get bad feedback on this forum. Also, Hypergear may be able to sort you a better actuator for cheaper than a garrett HD item if yours falls through.

Sucked in what way? Please elaborate as me and Arthur are both considering venturing down the TD06SL2 20G 10cm road with our 2.5s Also, Lith, NS.com has quite a few upper 200 SL2 powered SR20s noting minimal modifications. Roy has seen 260 out of his camed example RB20 and seems to be searching HARD for more. There is also very limited example of 20g comps doing more than that on RB25s on this forum. Youtube exhibits Jap 20g SR's and 1JZ's at 400ps on hub dynos. I will note that the said SR's dont plot any worse than 300kw RB25. Anyway, this isnt SR20forum.com so forget I mentioned it and no hard feelings about my fabled SR you will probably never see

Be it myself I would rebuild the blown HKS turbo. The housings would be a sweet thing to have... I would redo it as a 2871 52t. Send it to hypergear and tell him the specs you want. IMHO do not let him upsell you a bigger CHRA as the HKS housings are awesome and the HKS GTRS (2871 52t) is an awesome turbo for an RB25. GL

You made a fairly big investment in the GTX turbo, while I am not a believer I am also not one to tell you to lose money. Keep it if you believe you do want more power (and will have the money to get it) down the track. Decide what you really want.. I think in the end you bought into an overpriced T67... Somewhat laggier than a 3076 but capable of more robust figures (we hope). The T67 is proving itself more and more often for an over 300 turbo and costs under a thousand dollars delivered.. How can you argue. The downside is the external gate business and the fact it has an enormous comp housing. If you seriously have a change of heart I think you should simply sell your CHRA (core and comp cover) and swap out for your said replacement. Be it myself I have seen enough proof (2 alone on this website) to indicate the 52 trim 3076 makes the 3071 near obsolete. I still believe the 3071 with a .63 internal gate housing will be a good thing all round, yet think the 52t 3076 will be better. Ideally I would run the 52t 3076 with the Kando 10cm cock-up housing and a 44mm WG (tial MVR 44 etc), but welcome to 6boob land and lots of cash. The words have been said, if you had nobody to tell you otherwise you probably would never have thought a down thought about it, I know I wouldnt. Maybe just leave it alone and tune in that 300rpm your talking about (could get more with a simple cam gear mod) and enjoy the process of penile extension while informing the masses of your GTX taaarrrbbo.