Brezza

I'm pretty happy with the twin pumps i have in tank. i managed to get them mounted in the stock cradle. after a heap of fiddling with the wiring they're running good now. it turned out to be a bad connection clip in the fuel tank lid. removed it and ran an earth wire straight to the pumps and its fine now. still a little low on power. 353rwkw on 24psi but hopefully with either poncams or a bigger cat back exhaust i can stretch some more out of it. the exhaust is a little restrictive after the front pipe, front pipe is twin 70mm going into at least a 90 or 100mm collector and necking down to 80mm exit. then the decat has a 76mm flange so there is a fair restriction there.

No problems, happy to help. Wasn't you, you and the other newbie in the 33 were pretty good. cheers for moving out the way guys and making it easier to pass you. i was talking about another 34 with hazzard lights on.

was a great day managed a best of 1m26.3s, pretty happy with that. 1 second off my previous best. and considering nothing changed on the car since last track day, appart from more worn tyres. the safety car was annoying though! it was frustrating to keep boiling the coolant, ah well at least i got a few hot laps before the beeps started

i can help you change pads if you want, i've got a decent enough bleeder that i'll have with me. just need a car jack, pliers, screwdriver and something to undo the bleed valve if you want to bleed fluid? you can change the pads without bleeding. should onl'y take 5mins per wheel. i've changed out my pads so many times now, piece of piss

my GTR is ready to go! track pads are in, oil is changed. al that needs doing is boot trim removed to make room for fuel cans. are many of you guys going to be crusing down together? i'm guessing the usual muster point at caltex?

Hey, is anyone going to be using that strange E85 stuff on the day? I was wondering if anyone is going down in a ute or towing a trailer and has some space for 3 x jerry cans? they're the tall ones and dont fit in my 32R boot. if anyone can help, PM me? cheers,

sorry to hear! hey mate, if you've got any parts that you need to sell for a good price to help fund this build let me know. also if you're after 350kw and want the car looking std under the hood, i'm happy to let you know what i've done on my GTR. just PM me

this is a worry, theifs are stealing things they can use to steal other things!! i know when i get my trailer i'll be leaving it chained to the big a$$ tree in my yard.

i've bought a after marktet oil pressure gauge and now i never look at the stock gauge! the std gauge can read over 8 and the after market one will be at 40psi. the aftermarket one usually will be around 90-100psi at idle when startup once the water temp comes up to temp on the std gauge, which will only be 50 degrees on the aftermarket gauge i have for water temp. oil pressure will be around 60-70psi when the oil is up to temp, somewhere between 50-70 degrees, on idle the pressure is between 25-30psi this is completely normal according to the manual. the only thing is oil pressure gets up to 120psi when the oil isnt hot and i'm boosting. (oil will be under 50 degrees) if anyone is after true readings get aftermarket water & oil temp gauges, and an oil pressure gauge. even the std water temp gauge is whack! the std gauge sits in the middle when its only at 40 degrees, and will remain in the middle even when water temp gets to 90 degrees! that's a huge variance. basically if you see the std water temp gauge go over halfway, you've probably warped the head!

the poncams wouldnt be too much of a hindrance on your setup. but in all honesty you'd probably be better off with std cams and some cam gears for those turbo's you'd get better response and the turbo's would probably max out before the std cams would. i'd offer to buy the poncams off you at a good price ! but you've got a R34 GTR and i have a R32 GTR, i dont think the cam's are interchangable. i think the R32&33 ones are the same and the R34 has a different CAS?

white smoke in the morning is usually just condensation. black smoke is usually because its running a little rich, might puff out on WOT if you've been pretty soft on the pedal for a while? blue smoke is the worst, that's usually oil. my GTR puffs a little bit of blue smoke out the exhaust after a power run. the tuner said its probably just the turbo seals. should be fine though, because its not too bad. i've had smoke puff out from under the bonnet a couple times in traffic? popped the bonnet, and couldnt see where it came from so i just left it. must've been from the turbo, or some oil that leaked onto a hot manifold and burnt off? i did have a kinked breather hose from the catch can to the valve in the plennum, so it could've been some oil condensation being sucked through the turbo and burnt through the engine? who know's, i've fixed the kink now and it hasnt happened again.

i can vouch for this one! but its only because my R32 GTR injectors were leaking really badly. whenever i drove it all you could smell was fuel!

do not bother with changing your intercooler. i went from a R34 GTR cooler (60mm thick) to an ARC (70mm thick) cooler. and there was absolutely no difference! this was the only change i made to the car, and the car still pulled 360rwkw on 24psi boost on E85. i have -5's so they are a little bigger than the -9's i think? there were no significant signs that the intake temps were too high or it was restricting flow too much. i thought by changing it, i would've been able to hit my power goal of 500hp but it looks like i might have to try a set of poncams. also, i wouldnt bother with poncams for anything up to 350kw, my std head pulled 369rwkw and this was without adj cam gears. with the poncams, you will lose response for very minimal gain if at all for anything under 350kw.

these are great! i did one last year and found it really good! worth the money! if it wasnt so close to the nov trackday and i had a little more notice i would be doing this!

i had my cooler changed from std r34 GTR (60mm) to a 70mm ARC core and it made no difference at 350kw the only real diference was that it would pull 350 for three consecutive runs, so it took a little longer for heatsoak to set it. but as far as power difference there was none. a bigger/better cooler will only come into play when repeating runs on a dyno because it might stay cooler for longer? just letting you know my experiences.

after all these thefts i've stopped parking the GTR out the front of my house. i've taken it to the mrs parents house to put it in their garage and behind some bolted gates. i heard about the car being stolen from hove which is down the road from me and they didnt even have to start it. they just towed it away. i was so paranoid over the weekend, i thought i heard some people talking out the front of the house with a toolbox so i grabbed the maglite and went to the window to check but nobody was there. if they were they would've gotten a maglite across the cheek. i'll only be leaving the car out the front once i get the 2m gate out the front and some flood lights.

i'm running yellow jackets and have done so for 2 or so years at 350kw done 2 trackdays and it sees the hills about once a week. never had issues with them, i had to gap the plugs down to .7 because of missfire, but at .7 they work fine. so IMO the yellowjackets are fine. and BTW i'm in Adelaide so the temp here in summer does get into the 40's, so under bonnet temps would be quite high. plus, i run the coilpack cover on the rb26, so the coils get no extra cooling with the cover off.

Hey Guys, i didnt see my name on the list at the front. i've just paid the full amount plus $50 for the time, could i please be added to the list if i havent been already?

I'd advise getting an oil cooler. They definitely help keep temps stable. i've been using my Autobahn oil cooler kit, and it works no problems! i havent had any issues with leaking or over heating. people will tell you many different things like you need a thermostat because otherwise your oil is running too cool. i dont have a thermostat and my oil temps are fine, obviously you dont go blasting the car when its cold! but if the temps are around the 50 degree mark its usually fine. plus i assume when my temp sensor at the relocated oil filter is reading 40-50 degrees, the temp of the oil inside the engine is probably a little hotter than that? Like Krishy said his $200 cooler is doing fine, so is my $400 cooler & relocator setup. so its your call how much you wanna spend, but i definitely wouldnt risk not running one at the track. your car will be pushed so much harder than it ever would on the road.

i bought some WORK billet nuts, they were expensive. but with the Nismo rim's i've got they're the only ones that fit in the small holes. i also use a thin wall impact socket, and i even have to take off the plastic outside to fit the socket in the hole. the ones that came with the rims were in pretty bad condition, almost rounded off so i was due for some new ones.

Anyone keen for helping pulling down a brush fence and creeper vine this weekend? Beer & BBQ supplied PM me

Light Wheel Alignment they take really good care of the car there, i've gone in with the settings i've wanted and they did their best to get them. they couldnt get exactly what i wanted, but i've only got adjustable offset bushes and there is only so much an offset bush will adjust. the rear end of the car, they got the alignment easy. they even told me what parts i'll need to get the alignment settings i want, and told me the pro's and cons. also they picked up i had some worn diff bushes, and they even adjusted my power steering rack because it wasnt sitting right. definitely take your car there if you're looking for a wheel alignment that will maximise you're handling with your adjustable suspension parts. they know what works and what doesnt. and will be able to tell you at what point you'll just be wearing tyres for no benefit.

Light Wheel Alignment they do a good job! based in the city

My to do List: change brake pads (Hawk HT-10's) Buy Helmet Oil Change Might need new tires by then, i've got R1R's they're awesome tyres. very grippy, and pretty reasonable wear (just need to get pressures right otherwise they wear unevenly) I'll probably go for the Federal RSR's next just for a comparison, i'm not sold on the KU36 because they're a-symetrical and i don't want to have to trow tyres out because of camber wear. i think one paper RSR's are probably closer to R1R's wear and grip so it'll be interesting to see how they compare. other than those small things i'm looking at lowering times by driving better, hopefully wipe a few seconds off my previous times. ideally this track day i'd like to go sub 1m25s

^spot on so does that mean you'll be out there? there are plenty of guys out on the track in GTS-t's that don't run mega large brakes. and they do fine. and i doubt you'll be hitting 200km/hr down the back straight and need to pull up in less than 100m for the hairpin on you're first outing. the GTR isnt a 2 tonne + landcruiser or a XR6 boat. you will be able to stop with the std brakes. just make sure you get track spec pads and good fluid.