Brezza

you should be alright with the std 32 GTR brakes with some "track" pads, not semi track/street ones. here is the link that i got my Hawk HT-10's through, they were awesome! never faded and only got better with more abuse. http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ they only list the pads for the GTR's with brembo's, but if you've got the sumitomo brakes i think if you search for Nissan and find the 300zx ones it should fit the sumitomo's. they use the same caliper in the 300zx dont they? they're priced better than anywhere i could find in AUS. but hey Matty, if you've got a ute and you're willing to take fuel. could you take 80L of E85 for me?

I'm in + timer!

Mine is a R32 GTR i'm using the stock airbox and still with the stock snorkel that goes under the headlight and into the front bumper. i've taken that resonator thing out behind the front bar and infront of the wheel. the tuner tested whether any gains were to be had from opening the airbox and the car still made the same power. so the R32 GTR airbox isnt very restrictive IMO

i recomend getting any decent panel filter for your stock air box. I've got a K&N in mine and i'm pushing 350+rwkw there isnt really any need for a pod, the extra surface area you get with a pod is negated by the fact that you're sucking in more hot air vs slightly less air but cooler. so in reality they're going to give almost identical results. i've had foam pods in the car before, the turbo spooled slightly earlier but power dropped off because the pod was just sucking in a lot of hot air. plus when i compare what gets caught in the panel filter vs the foam one, i'd choose the panel one anyday. it does the job of actually filtering what goes into the engine. foam ones catch nothing. you're better off running some panty hoes over your AFM if you've got a foam filter.

i'd be checking the earth, and making sure it is fine all the way to the pump. i had a dodgy earth connection on my fuel pump through the tank lid and it wouldn't supply enough power to the twin in tank pumps i've got.

It made 318 @ 21.5psi and that was on the same dyno

turbo's -5's exhaust 3in full system incl 3in decat nismo AFM's std airbox K&N air filter 1000cc injectors Nistune ECU twin walbro in tank fuel pumps ARC 70mm intercooler silicone I/C piping std cams (recond when engine rebuilt) forged bottom end Mines dump pipes std manifolds that's pretty much it

sorry double post

Hi guys, I just had my car run on a dyno on the weekend, it pulled 353rwkw @ 24.5psi the AFR's were dead flat on 11:1 boost held strong to redline, only droping maybe 1.5-2psi from peak. question is, is 11:1 AFR too rich for E85? i dont think there is much advance timing in the tune, maybe 3-5 degrees over PULP

seems like i might go for the 19psi actuator next? hopefully that will let the car crack 500rwhp!

shouldn't i just be able to have the wastegates tightened to hold more boost? i think they're adjustable, they have a threaded rod which looks like you can tighten of loosen to adjust when the wastegate cracks open.

I've got 14psi actuators from memory? i remember when i had them fitted to the std motor the tuner had to just run wastegate tension because when they were plumbed in boost would hit 18psi. i've got an Turbosmart E-Boost Street, so it should be able to control boost well enough. might just need some fiddling with the settings to control the wastegates better?

^ that's exactly what i was going to point out. its the higher boost that is making more power, and all the E85 is doing is alowing more boost to be run without detonation. I think my GTR could make near that if it were able to hold 25psi boost, but it seems to peak at 25 then trail off to 20psi Anyway's, will see what it does on the dyno this weekend

turbo's on mine are -5's I'm thinking maybe an exhaust leak is contributing to the boost not holding at 24psi. because after a hard few goes at WOT on high boost i can hear a high pitched whistle coming from the engine anytime the turbo's spool. i'm also getting very small amounts of blue smoke out the back of the muffler when i back off the throttle, some have suggested maybe turbo seals?

I've got my GTR on E85 and i had changed injectors, added another fuel pump and retune. seriously, there is no point running E85 for "safety" its costly to change injectors etc for little gains if your motor, turbo, AFM's or other gear are going to limit you to power you could easily achieve on PULP i had my GTR running 21psi on PULP and getting 350rwkw, then went to E85, upped the boost to 24psi and got 370rwkw. the boost wont hold until redline it drops off to 20 or so PSI so that's why there is no huge gain in the top end. but midrange is crazy! and thats where most driving is done. torque difference is great. then again, on my setup i was nearing the limit of PULP with the parts i had. if i had to do it again i probably wouldnt bother. the limited station and less ecconomy means with a spirited hills run i have a 20L jerry can in the boot just to make sure i don't run out of fuel. for what you've listed, get your turbo, and injectors fitted and tuned on PULP and enjoy for a while and save up for E85 if you feel the need.

i'm probably going to either try some KU36's or 595 RSR's next time i need tyres. for me, my car doesnt see much driving, but when it does i want it to grip well. last thing i want is something that will just spin if i put the foot down. for some reason spinning wheels doesnt get me hard like it does other people. if i drove daily and needed the tyres to last, then i'd go for something harder compound and maybe not as much grip. now i got a house and the missus can see the bank account, i've gotta spend wisely on the GTR i'm probably leaning to the RSR's because for the price from option 1 garage, i can rotate them better since my car does get a bit of camber wear on the inside. and i think KU36's wont last and i'll have one side bald with heaps of tread on the outer side

Hall Towbars they fitted the missus WRX with a tow bar, didnt take them that long either

Am glad i bothered to get the engine mounts replaced with Nismo ones. one of the engine mounts was busted, which explains why i could feel the engine and gearbox move under WOT. Looking forward to picking the car up and hopefully it'll survive a while before having to get something else fixed!

my ARC front mout is a little off centre. but it doesnt bother me. you can just notice it on the end tanks, but the core still gets good flow. it might be common with the ARC mounting points? BTW i don't have a twin entry one

I love going for hills run during work hours on a day off. there is nobody around. but i wouldnt be too keen to go today with this wet weather. starting to miss driving the GTR, havent driven it in 3 weeks. its getting the engine mounts changed and the fusable link replaced. the fusable link is really starting to annoy me, it keeps slowly burning out. when i last drive it, the wire was hot to touch. i think its because the link is pretty old and stuffed, hopefully it'll be able to put some charge into the battery soon!

yeah, i've recently had the intercooler changed as well as the clamps. and its only after this that the whistle appeared. its more than likely a clamp that is leaking a slight amount when under pressure. i'm probably due to change the vac lines though. the car is 20+ years old and the hoses would more than likely be the same ones that came on the car brand new. when i had my idle control valve blocked off the car boosted higher. so leads me to believe that the lines are pretty old and maybe some new ones might help hold boost to redline

yeah, i've got the same issue. the car runs fine but i do hear a slight whistle when on boost after some very heavy throttle. but the car stil goes fine. i'm pushing some pretty decent boost though. 24psi

I've just used the turbosmart E boost street and my Nistune if i had to do it again though i would go the VIPEC which does away with the AFM's and can control boost itself. i'm happy with the Nistune, it does the job well and is great value for money. but still you need AFM's because they max out around the 300rwkw mark on GTR's and if you want to push boost its always a good idea to go for the EBC but if you want to upgrade slowly over time, the nistune is great

agreed! if you don't look like someone who has stolen the car it helps. dont dress like this tossa! have a propper haircut and leave your Collingwood supporter gear at home!

yeah it was only a 15kw gain. but i had to add an extra 2psi the midrange torque is insane! but then again its expected when running 24psi of boost. spending all the money on fuel system isnt worth it if the power is achievable on PULP. someone mentioned having it as knock protection and still keeing smaller turbo for response. its a pretty big expense for knock protection, although united E85 is slighty cheaper than Pump Fuel you do use more. i went from using maybe 16L per 100kms to using no less than 21L per 100kms and this is on a low boost of 18psi and not much throttle, if i go high boost and am really heavy on the pedal it'll easily drink 25L for 60-70kms of driving at the track day i used about 90L of fuel for not even 170kms, i was averaging a jerry can every 2 x 15min sessions