Brezza

"RB26GTR" plates expire in Aug-13 $200

Price Drop on GTR!

Price Drop! $24,999

actually looking at an S4 Quattro got a 4.2L V8

depends on how much i've got to spend am leaning towards something Euro, Audi or BMW kinda am a little over the modified car scene, spent far too much money over the years.

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-skyline-1989-13295819

Still for Sale!! $25,999 ono

anyone got STD height STD R32 GTR coilovers i can borrow? mine have lowered springs in them

does anyone have STD height STD R32 GTR coilovers? need to borrow to get the car off defect.

it'll probably be easier to take the speakers out and just put in a parcel shelf and the hooks and go through like that. i'd rather just go through on PULP and have my injectors tuned for PULP, they do not stand out and the rail looks stock. if you look hard enough you might see the twin lines running to one before it goes to the rail. but there isnt anything wrong with having 2 pumps is there? its just extra fuel, if you've still got std injectors and ecu, you can have as many pumps as you want and it wont change mixtures. the injectors if they get noticed i will just say they are replacements because the old ones were leaking. you can buy std replacements of the ones i have. and my ecu is a nistune. so its the std casing and insides with a different board i think? pretty un noticable. would anyone have a rear parcel shelf from their R32 GTR that i could borrow? maybe someone that has stipped their car?

do you need child restraints in the rear parcel shelf of the car? i took mine out and fitted some speaker mounts for my 6x9's they're bolted in. also can you take the car through on e85? do they start the car up and test for noise etc? i got done for my exhaust noise. i'm thinking of tuning it back on PULP just because it idles better and starts easier.

Some of these are with the old exhaust and the std intercooler. the ARC one looks slightly better.

1989 R32 Skyline GTR Number Plate ‘RB26GTR’ 360rwkw @ 20psi on E85 Price $27,999 Location: SA I have owned this car for almost 5 years, bought it virtually stock with an exhaust on it. I have either upgraded almost everything in that time. The only part that still remains since the day I bought it is the front pipe, and even that has been modified. Lots of money and love has gone into this car over the years, I have a folder full of receipts for it. I have only listed the performance mods below; it has also been maintained to a high level. The time has come now to sell the car and buy something a little more family friendly. If you are looking for a well maintained R32 GTR that you can confidently take to a track day and have fun and drive home in it afterwards then this is probably the car for you. My main goal for the past few years was to build a car that was capable of sustaining a day of driving on the weekend and still be reliable enough to drive to work on Monday. I have only done 3 track days in it, and it has performed great. It is still 2.6L which is why I have the number plate. The car is also fully capable of running E85 as the fuel system has been upgraded and tuned to suit. The car drives well, and is a day in day out 350+rwkw car. For those that have ridden in this car can attest that it really is a great fast car. So for a 350+rwkw car on E85 that is reliable the price is $27,999. This is a fair asking price given the work that has been done to it and money spent on maintenance all up totalling over $35k Engine Rebuild RB26 – Built by Shaun @ Boostworx in May 2009 CP Forged Pistons Tomei Metal Head Gasket Gates Racing Timing Belt New R33 GTR Crank New Std Oil Pump New Water Pump ACL Race Bearings – Main & Conrod Reconditioned Head Tomei Sump Baffle Tomei oil restrictor Mines Rocker Cover Baffles Gates Racing Timing Belt Nismo Engine & Gearbox Mounts – Fitted June 2011 Just Jap Autech Style Catch Can – Fitted Nov 2012 Performance Garrett 2860-5 turbos – Fitted April 2009 Tomei Poncams Type B (260 degree, 9.15 lift) – Fitted March 2012 1000cc injectors – Fitted Feb 2011 Custom twin walbro intank fuel pump – (similar to Powertune Setup) – Fitted Feb 2011 Custom twin fuel lines to std fuel rail – Fitted Feb 2011 ARC 70mm Intercooler – Fitted May 2011 Nismo AFM’s – Fitted Nov 2010 K&N Air Filter Nistune ECU – Fitted Nov 2010 Turbosmart E-Boost Street – Fitted Nov 2010 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs – Fitted Nov 2010 Silicone Intercooler Hose Kit – Fitted Nov 2010 Exhaust Mines 65mm dump pipes 2.75in – 4in front pipe 4in AM Performance cat back exhaust – Fitted Dec 2011 Wheels , Tyres & Brakes Nismo LM GT2 – 9.5in wide +15 offset Federal RSR 235/40 R17 – Fitted April 2012 (barely worn) R34 GTR Brembo all round – Fitted Oct 2010 Braided Brake Lines Slotted Rotors QFM HPX Brake Pads all round Suspension Tein Super Street Coilovers – Jap Spec – Fitted Dec 2008 Hicas Lockbar Rear Subframe Whiteline Pineapples Whiteline Rear Adjustable Sway Bar – Fitted Dec 2008 Super Pro – Adjustable – Rear Upper Control Arm Bushes – Fitted Aug 2010 Super Pro – Adjustable – Front Upper Control Arm Bushes – Fitted Aug 2010 Super Pro – Adjustable – Rear Lower Control Arm Bushes – Fitted May 2011 Super Pro Crossmember Bushes – Fitted Jun 2011 Other Jim Berry ‘Montyzilla’ Clutch - 9.5in clutch plate, 1.8tonne pressure plate Clutch engages great, very soft pedal. Was installed Dec 2010 still going strong C’s Short Shifter Oil Cooler Kit Autogauge – Oil Temp Autogauge – Water Temp Auto Gauge – Oil Pressure Stereo Alpine head unit – MP3 compatible JBL 5 channel AMP JBL 12in sub JBL 6 x 9 JBL 6in splits

I've got a pair of stainless manifolds for an RB26, these replace the stock manifolds and have bolt positions for the std heat shields. these are low mount twin manifolds. bought them with intention to fit but now i'm deciding to sell the car. $400.00

the fuel rail is stock and is painted black, the injectors are even more boring looking than std

does anyone have any std GTR injectors that i could borrow? my car got defected and i'm running 1000cc injectors and E85, am just wondering whether i'd need to change the injectors out and get it through on a PULP std tune or whether i'd be able to leave the bigger ones in and leave the car on E85? all the fuel lines are stock or at least look std. its all done with propper tubing.

midrange has improved with the cams. i picked up some second hand manifolds for $200 the pair. so a fairly good price considering what they are new. these ones were off a car and there are no signs of them being welded again from cracks. the guy who had them before went from twins to a single so he didnt need the manifolds anymore. i'm not going to bother changing the springs now that i've already changed the cams. its not really worth the extra labour $$$, looking back i probably should've changed springs. but to do it now the labour bill would be too much and to maybe gain a couple KW's. i dont know if i can be bothered. its turning into a p1ssing contest when you're trying to extract more than 350kw from a GTR. you spend more and more money for limited return on more power. and to only say to someone that mine is more powerful. most of the power i have in the car can only really be appreciated at high speeds and on the street you can't do it. i do respect those opinions from people who have built cars and know what they're talking about, but i'm getting a little tired of everyone regurgitating what someone else says. i hear advice from so many people with less power than me on how to make more out of my car, all they are doing most of the time is spitting up what others have told them. anyone who has actually driven a 350kw+ car on the street will tell you the same thing, its a lot of power for a street car. i'll probably update this thread with results after i make changes to the exhaust, but once that's done i will have done every bolt on i can and maybe it'll make more power? as far as cams go though, the poncams are great. there is a slight difference to low rpm driving (taking off at the lights) but in the midrange they really come alive and do not drop off at high rpm. for anyone looking at pushing a little more out of their GTR when their std cams arent cutting it. the poncams are a great compromise for the street & power.

i got some manifolds to go on, and am also saving for some new dump & front pipes. going to go for a split dump front pipe. 2.5in off ex wheel and 1.5in for wastegate. it's split for at least 40cm then merges back to a 3in twin to the 4in cat back. hopefully it'll sound good. it might have a little more grunt? never know. the current setup on there is a 2.5in dump pipe and 2.75in front pipe. i think, havent taken it off to measure. springs will be too expensive to do since i already paid for the cams to be put in. in all seriousness, the car has enough power for the street. i'm running federal RSR's and am still spinning tyres on hills runs. there is plenty of power under foot. i'm mainly thinking about changing the exhaust note a little with manifolds and dumps

results from changing from 3in turbo back (365rwkw @ 24psi) to a 4in turbo back (372rwkw @ 24psi). there was a problem with holding that boost and the tuner fiddled with the positioning of the actuator arms to try and fix it. the boost was wavy at 24psi. after the cams it pulled 360rwkw @ 20psi and when pushed to 24psi the boost would be wavy and not gain much more power. so i've just left it at 20psi. my view on the cams is that they're great! car still drives nicely and it pulls hard to redline! +1 for type b poncams if you're shooting above 350rwkw, they will fatten midrange and make the car sound better too!

byt gain, do you mean sensitivity setting or the gate pressure setting? on my boost controller there are 3 things that you set for each boost level. Set Point, Gate Pressure & Sensitivity my car has the problem of oscilating boost at 24psi. but at 20psi it is fine. we tried turning sensitivity right down and it still doesnt help. the only thing i noticed were different were the gate pressure settings, for each settings were that the gate pressure is different on one it is 0.8 (24psi setting) and the other is 0.5 (20psi setting) i think these measurements are in BAR so 0.8 would be 11.6psi and 0.5 would be 7.25 the actuator is a 14 or 15psi actuator. here is my dyno graph. Dyno Results - (360rwkw) @ 20psi (Power vs Boost).pdf Boost Controller Instructions.docx

i think the 2.8L and twin 3inch exhausts from turbo would make a fair difference. i dont think i'd get close to that power on a 2.6L even with a 3in from the turbo back.

Dyno Graphs! Dyno Results - (360rwkw) @ 20psi (Power vs Boost).pdf Dyno Results - (360rwkw) @ 20psi (Power vs AFR).pdf

i'm not ruling springs out, but i think you might be onto something here? the cams are still pretty mild. 260 degree 9.15lift they're a drop in, no relieving the head and no requirement for aftermarket springs. that's not to say that the std ones arent tired. but they should be up to the task. again the case might be that the exhaust is not up to the task, or manifolds are not flowing enough? or possibly turbo's are going outside of their efficiency? from my understanding the main difference between -7's, -5's and -10's are the exaust housing? so in theory they can flow much more? so that got me thinking it might be more likely that the exhaust manifold or the dump pipe (mainly dump pipe - i think its a 65mm max, could be 60mm) these things might be choking the engine from breathing more? I'm getting the dyno graphs emailed from the tuner and i'll put them up when they come. also, does anyone know how hard it is to change the manifolds and dump pipes? i've got the manual for the GTR and have read through the steps to removing the turbo's and in theory it doesnt sound too hard. but when you add in the limited working space and possibly tight nuts then its so much harder.

I gotta say that the type b's and -5's are a great match when you're pumping some air through those turbo's i'd definitely reccomend putting those cams on a rb26 when you've got those turbo's and are wanting to shoot for 350kw because the gains are to be had everywhere! the low end response isnt really effected much at all. it actually makes more grunt lower in the rev range, and when on boost the car pulls hard right to redline! definitely a damn good street cam, and it can sound a little lumpy on idle if you want it to be. having 360kw at the wheels all day everyday is a pretty good feeling. i wouldnt mind changing the exhaust (dump & manifolds) if it was an easy enough job to do myself. but to pay someone a whole day's work isnt really worth it if its not going to net any gains. i do wonder how the car would sound with 3in exhaust off the turbo's to a 4in cat back? i'm still working on getting a graph from the tuner.