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INASNT: What car do you have? Guessing a Skyline R33? I think a 0.87 housing would be perfect for the RB25...not too laggy, and a heap of top end power.

Yes, I had always thought that the A/R affected the rated horsepower. The GT3037S is rated at 480PS (56T), so I am guessing that is with the largest A/R which I believe is 1.12? Considering this, I would expect my turbo to be rated around 400PS, which seems quite reasonable giving the power it produced. Both turbos are off my car and I have the stock one back on. Don't worry, I am going to get the turbo sent to Sydney very soon. So when that happens, and hopefully if/when it's repaired...I'll let you know asap

I still don't understand why the A/R does not affect the "rated horsepower"? I thought the larger A/R would have a bigger rated horsepower? RS500: Have you decided which turbo to go for? I still have not yet repaired my other GT3037S. Been pretty lazy lately...

I am not sure...I know that a larger A/R turbo can flow more, but when does this actually come into play? Does this mean that a larger A/R turbo has more potential...eg when at 2bar?

$80 for a heat shield seems nice The turbine housing is 0.73. That dyno graph was run on 1.2bar boost. Nope, no detonation...it was tuned by Shaun from MORPOWA who now works for RPM. He said he could put in more fuel, but I'm not sure why they didn't. He said that that AFR was near optimum, but I always thought it should be around 12.8? I had a 044 pump with stock injectors. Not sure what duty cycle was, but I'm sure there was more than enough juice there. I wasn't aware that Trent's car made so much power. I haven't spoken to him in ages, but at last years AutoSalon I remember him making around 230kW@wheels on 1.2bar? Maybe more. I heard that the engine blew up and they are now going to use an HKS GT28 series turbo, less laggy.

Yeah, I always wondered how manufacturers "rated" their turbos. Does anyone know? I also get confused as to how a GT3037S 56T turbo can be rated at 480PS, regardless of the turbine housing A/R used? I know the A/R makes a difference in lag, and I would expect the top end power to be higher with a larger A/R? Same goes for all other turbos. Confusing. I guess power also depends upon other things, like tuning and what others mods you may have.

I am talking about the one in the city. I know a few of the people behind the counter there, but not Brett. I don't think the Mawson Lakes UNISA gym pass can be used in the one in town because my friend has membership at Mawson Lakes and he has to pay whenever he goes to the one in town. The one in town is pretty small, but has enough range of free weights to keep you amused. If you want to go for classes, I'd go somewhere else seeing that they only have 3-4 classes/week. They may have more when the warmer weather comes round, but not entirely sure. The gym is usually pretty packed, especially on mondays.

Steve: Is that the smallest turbine housing? 0.61A/R? I have the 0.73A/R. Yours is the 56T trim right? rob77: Your TD06 would be a much larger than the GT3037S seeing that you have the 20G and the turbine housing of Steve's is 0.61A/R. Hence lower in rated horsepower, but a lot more responsive. It would be interesting to compare your TD06 to a GT3037S with a 1.12A/R turbine housing...both are comparable in size. I think the results would be very similar.

Nice R34. What other Skylines do you have? I'd go for a nice set of AVS Model 5 rims, or R34GTR rims, or VOLK TE-37s in bronze. Actually, probably the TE-37s in white as it'll look better with the purple body colour.

Nice dyno graph Steve. The graph does look very linear, which probably means that the turbo isn't considered "big" for the RB25. Also means that it should be very responsive I have attached my dyno graph for comparisons sake, same turbo but on a 2L and you can see that it's definitely a lot peaker than yours. Hence laggier. Off boost it really felt much more sluggish than the stock turbo. Glad you got good results. Your aim for 300rwkw should be quite achievable.

EnricoPalazzo: Who do you know?

I think the pricing is roughly the same. I think UNISA students it's a bit under $100, other uni students probably $140 and for others (like me) costs me $170/year. You should try find a gym where you can buy sessions. Like 30 visits for $XXX. That way it saves a bit of money, and you can go whenever you like. Not worth paying for a year if you only go once/week. Well, it's not bad actually as it's damn cheap anyway.

Tuning can be a very costly thing. I got my car tuned by Shaun when he was working at MORPOWA. Did a great job. He now works at RPM. I am not sure how much Tim is working anymore. I think only a few days/week at most. I've heard lots of good things from Tilbrooks too.

Just a question, why would you want to keep the AFM if it restricts air flow, even slightly - being 80mm? Also, I know that the Japanese Power FC can come with a map sensor. Do you know if it's possible to get that? Or, you can do what AutoBarn's 180 did (before). Which was use the AFM after the intercooler, don't know how well it worked...but the car made great power. That way you could use a full 100mm pipe from airfilter to turbo. I think the mildsteel manifold was a good choice as I've heard that stainless ones are more prone to cracking, just like mine did What's next on the mod list? Will be good to see what results your car makes. I'm sure it will make a bucket load. But do you find that the car is substantially laggier than normal? My car was a slug off boost. Felt slower on the road, unless I really pushed it on boost.

Hiep: Why don't you go back to the UNISA gym in town you slacker!! But The Lodge does sound interesting, as there are always heaps of cars there when I drive past it on the way home everyday from work.

Hi Steve, nice car!! Very nice pipework. Is that all mild steel with black coating? That's not stainless steel? Otherwise I thought you would have gone for the shiny piping? Are you going to get rid of the 80mm AFM and replace with a MAP sensor? I guess that depends upon what ECU you are running? I particularly like the heat shield around the exhaust housing. Was that custom made? If so, how much?

Nah, I like the squareness of the R34 GTRs. Says a statement like "I don't need to be aerodynamic to whoop your ass" But on the other hand I like the sleekness of the s15s, rx7 series 6+ and Supras. All these sleek cars look a lot better without spoilers. Spoilers just ruin the car, but suit other cars.

Yep for sure! The R32 GTR looks better than the R33. Looks a lot tougher!! And cheaper and lighter But the R33 does grow on you with it's bulkiness. But I think the R32 would be better to drive being smaller and probably more nimble on the streets. The R33 in my opinion is a little too big, just like those Whale Sized Commodores you see out there. Still, the R34 is the best!! Can't beat it.

Well, luckily for me I'm not the tallest of guys Japanese in general are quite small. I feel for the bigger guys who have problems fitting in the small bucket racing seats. Some of them are really small!! Still, I think the 180 is better than the R33. I guess each to their own.

Yes, the GTR is King...but if I had a choice between an SR20 180 and an R33 it would be the 180. Why? Because it's lighter and similar mods will give similar increases in power. Also, 180s can look damn good if they have a nice bodykit and all. But I do agree that they look crap standard, but then who here has a standard car? 180s are also cheaper, and when combined with the late model round lights and s15 front...nice!!! I do agree that the interior is also crap, but with the money saved on the cheaper 180 just replace the two front seats with BRIDE seats (around $1000 each 2nd hand), and rip out the back seats to make the car even lighter. No one sits at the back anyway, cos they can't! Although that still leaves the dash which is very outdated.

I'd go for the TEINS as the HKS ones probably aren't that much different. Both are japanese coilovers and are gonna be rock hard! Why not go for another brand? Like a European brand like Bilstein or Ohlins? Japanese roads are a lot smoother than the ones we have here in OZ. But, you're paying for the name I guess.

Street car? Wow! I am guessing you usually drive off boost, unless you thrash the car around? Not sure what T88 it is, but it's been in many mags. I'm sure you've seen/read it. I think it has a 2.2L stroker kit too. Can I ask why Garrett? Not HKS? I guess Garrett is a lot cheaper than HKS and TRUST. Never thought about a smaller turbo? I mean, I thought a GT30 would be good enough on a SR20. Unless you are chasing insane power like 600hp+? Is that what you're chasing??? How much boost are you running and what's your power output?

Yeah, more power = more fuel...but that's only because you want the AFR to be constant (optimum) and with more power, there is an increase in air flow...hence you need more fuel to keep the AFR at a good level. Batman specials??? What sized dump you going for? 3.0"? 3.5"? I think mine is now 3.0", but used to be 3.5" when I had the larger turbo on. Ahh heck! Why not go for the 4.5"

Sheesh! That is a big turbo!! Almost like that white JUN s15 in Perth with the T88 on it. Which makes me wonder, why didn't you go all the way with a T88? I would have with that sized turbo I think lag monster is an understatement Anyway, should be fun. Do you use it on the street, or as a strict drag car? When does the car come on boost? I am guessing it starts to make boost around 4500rpm? 5000rpm?

$2300 for a 800hp is pretty good going! What turbo is it? And what engine? Either way, it seems like it will be laggy as hell...but then again, hit as hard as a bag of bricks.