EVOIV

whatisname: How much was the heat wrap? Did you find it worthwhile in keeping your engine bay cooler?

Oh another thing, does anyone know where to get heat wrap material from? I might be thinking of heat wrapping my exhaust manifold and dump pipe come summer. Because my car's engine bay gets quite hot in the 35+ degree heat!

Lowering the compression will bring detonation higher in the rev range and thus you should be able to wind up the boost more without detonating in your car's rev range. But lowering the compression is also going to make off boost performance worse. So there's a tradeoff, like most things. Steve, has the power curve been fixed up now so that power increases in a nice smooth fashion? Will be good to see the results at 1.5bar when the turbo is most efficient. When are you getting the head gasket done? You going to do cams too?

Also, nice work on getting that much power out of the GT3037S. That definitely is a bunch, and it seems that you have little lag too...great results!! I hope to get just as good results with my next car, hopefully GT3037S equipped too

Steve: I have a question for you and any body who has tuned their cars. Why is it that sometimes when you look at a power curve the curve is not perfectly smooth. I'm not having a go at your dyno chart, I'm just wondering can it be made smoother? Is this due to the tuner's ability? Maybe the ECU? Or what? Does anyone know? I've seen some power curves smoother than others, just wondering that's all.

You really only need a 100mm thick intercooler if you're aiming for real big horsepower...like 600hp+. Any lower than that, and a 76mm intercooler will be more than fine. Yes, you do need cooling to the engine bay too, so you might need to replace with a better thinner thermo fan type. Also, is your intercooler a bar & plate, or tube & fin? Bar & Plate intercoolers are usually thicker.

Hmm...I've never heard of the 3037 PRO S...I've only heard of the 3037 and 3037S. And I'm pretty sure both these turbos don't fit on the stock manifold as they both use GT30 outlet flanges. What's the difference between the PRO? Ahh...wait a sec, I think the PRO is the newer version...right? I think it's basically the same as the 3037S except it has an internal wastegate. Yeah???

I would go a large front mounted intercooler. If you've got the money, go for a TRUST twin core...you won't need a triple core unless you're chasing 700hp+. With such a thick intercooler, you may need to use a thinner thermo fan...and a more efficient one to keep your engine bay temps down. Would be interesting to see how the RB25 goes in the s14. Sounds good! Let me know if there are any major hassles in fitting the engine, as I might be thinking of doing this later too. Even better still, why not go the RB26 in the s14? How much will the engine transplant cost? Cos if you're short of $$$ it may be better off modifying the SR20 to reach 500hp...because it's just as equally capable. But then I think the s14 didn't come with the SR20 over there, is that right?

Anyway, more to the point of this thread...yes 500hp should be quite achievable. But it will cost you lots of $$$ as said earlier. A GTR can make similar power, with lesser mods. I've read that a GTR can even dip into the 11s without replacing the turbos or ECU. You will need more boost, exhaust, cams...etc. But no major mods like a larger turbo or whatever. I would go the GTR, depending upon how much you can get it over there in the US. Nonetheless, the RB25 is a very responsive engine to mods. But the RB26 is still King!!!

You can pull out the fuse on a GTR and hurrah...RWD, no ATTESSA system. You can probably drift with that, but the problem then lies that a GTR is substantially heavier than a GTS-T due to the ATTESSA system, which even though can be disconnected, is heavier than the GTS-T drivetrain. But then I've heard that this can only be done on the R32 GTRs??? Would be nice to have a little in cabin switch to switch from RWD to AWD (ATTESSA).

Pretty amazing huh? Yeah when I had my car dynoed the manifold started to glow red (stainless steel). It was polished but ended up turning a gold colour after glowing red. Quite normal so I think you have nothing to worry about.

If you don't like the sound of the 044 mounted externally, I can agree with you here, I believe you can mount them intank and they are a lot quieter? I never did it, but mine was externally mounted and it is very annoying and loud especially in the summer. Intank should be a lot better.

Hello, Well it's time for another service for my EVO4 and I was wondering what brand/type (viscosity) of engine and gearbox oil do you use? I've used Mobil1, Shell Helix and the last engine oil I used was Motul. I know it's not too good to keep changing oils, so maybe I should stick to one? But which one? Also, what gearbox oil do you guys use? Cheers.

Sounds good Steve. Is the "quiet car" so as not to attract unwanted attention? Eg red and blue lights. That's probably a wise thing. I find it very discouraging if cops are out there and defecting a lot of people. All your hard work has to be ripped off. What a pain! Hope it doesn't happen to anyone, but I'm sure many people here have already had the unpleasant experience.

You are damn lucky to get DEFI link gauges! They are quite pricey aren't they? Is it true that when you start up the car the gauges calibrate and the pointer on the gauges moves right through the range? Example: If you have a boost gauge from 0bar to 2bar, when you start the car the "pointer" moves from 0 bar to 2 bar and then moves back down to 0bar? Nice

OK cool, thanks for that. Can I ask how much you paid for it? Is it ceramic coated?

Yes, I too like boost gauges cos they move Everyone wants to see something working and it's actually doing something. I think boost gauges are important (to me anyway) because I have the Profec B boost controller (no boost display). I have low and high boost and sometimes I like to see what the max boost is set at. I sometimes adjust the low and high settings too, so I don't want to set it too high and blow something. I think boost gauges are useful.

What I would like to do with my next car is have the wastegate pipe exit off to the side of the car, just like Top Secret's Supra. Then you would be able to see flames Most of the wastegate pipes just dump to the ground, and are underneath the car so you can't see the flames, just hear the bark. I guess the wastegate pipe is just like an exhaust without a muffler. The sound probably depends upon the specs of the turbo? I don't think it's affected by the wastegate, because after all it just acts like a valve. Good choice on the manifold GTS-t VSPEC, hope everything goes well. Should be interesting to see the results. Just a question, when peope custom make manifolds, how do they decide the shape? Do they equal tune/length the pipes of the manifold? Or do they just make it up? I thought equal tuning would be important - to have a constant pressure througout?

Because the manifold keep cracking I bought that second hand and if you've ever seen the walls of the manifold (HKS, stainless steel) it is extremely thin. Only 1-2mm!! It kept on cracking due to the weight of the wastegate (50mm) which is very heavy for such a thin manifold. So I would suggest anyone out there who is bolting an external wastegate to a manifold to make sure it can hold it. Maybe even get a mild steel manifold to save costs and make it thicker and more durable. Also, I am hoping to sell the car soon and I want to keep the turbo and wastegate for my next car

I actually like the fsshhh of my BOV. At one stage the car was making so many noises: Exhaust, external fuel pump, BOV, turbo whistle and open wastegate. Just like an orchestra But now that my car has had its stock turbo put back on, it's a lot quieter and I can hear the BOV - which is a nice change What BOVs do people have? I have the BLITZ one and I think it sounds sweet. I was going to go for the HKS one but I thought it was a bit too high pitched for me. Does anyone have the GReddy/TRUST one? How's that?

The only problem with having a larger turbo with open wastegate is that you hardly ever hear the BOV anymore. That's what happened to me. When the turbo spooled up it was quite a loud high pitched whistle, then the wastegate would open and that's all you heard. The exhaust also became a lot louder on idle. I don't find these noises annoying, but what is annoying is having an external fuel pump. They are so noisey, and a constant buzzing which gets annoying after a short while. In summer it seems to work harder and get louder. Much better intank.

If I had a black and white car, preferably an AE86 I'd have "PANDA" or maybe "DIRIFT"

I have a boost gauge and oil temp. The exhaust temps are also useful, but very pricey. Same with the AFR gauges. I would go for oil temp and boost. Could also go oil pressure? Or why not get the MoTeC M800 with console?

Yeah, nothing beats the sound of a barking wastegate. Even if cops are around, just make sure you don't thrash the car to full boost. Or, just raise the boost to 2bar and you'll hardly ever hear the open wastegate

Hmm...a 1.12 housing is going to be crazy lag I would rather go for the larger T51 HKS turbo instead of the GT3037S with 1.12A/R. I think it looks nicer He using a stroker kit? 2.2L? Well, there is the white JUN s15 in Perth that's supposed to be a circuit car. And that runs a T88. Too big if you ask me