**RB2530**

I know that in recent years the car manufacturers have started to use cold start tuning that is really rich with retarded ignition so that the CAT gets up to temperature quicker...Makes a lot of sense...Using more fossil fuel with aim of reducing emmisions a token amount

Well not quite...I am not using Screamer as an adjective such as in 'screamer pipe'; I am using it as a pronoun 'Screamer Pipe'...So in this case it is not really an oxymoron in the true sense....I used to be good at English...Now I are excillent!!! :laughing-smiley-014:

Yep spot on...I didn't bother with a CAT because it would run way to cold and actually pose a significant restriction because it is cold....It would cool exhaust gas very quickly and in turn the gas viscosity would increase...So it wouldn't work and also pose extra restriction...I have insulated the tube leading up to the muffler to try and keep it warmer..Ideally I would have run the WG along and welded to the main dump pipe but just not enough room... I wasn't attempting to keep it legal anyway...Just not as detectable....It does reduce emisions...Noise emisions though...

One extra thing I have just remembered is indexing the spark plugs...What you do is make sure that the spark plug is installed so that it faces the inlet side of the engine...ie the spark is not shielded by the ground electrode...Its really easy to do...all you do is put the spark plug in a plug socket with a non-ratchet handle and orientate the spark plug in line with the handle. Then tension the plug such that the handle faces the inlet side of the engine.. occasionally you amy need to grind the start of the thread a small amount so that the tension picks up at the right angle... How good this works??? I dont really know? Has anyone else heard of this before??? Guilt-toy maybe something we could try one day if you haven't already...

Yeah I can't think of anything that could easily be done to fix the ignition and give you best of both worlds apart from more power!! I had seen that HKS were doing some sort of ignition amplifier which would probably give the coil pack a bigger punch to produce a stronger spark... I knew that the old school V8 boys always used pretty high powered ignition mods...If you have ever seen a top alchohol or top fuel engine up close the ignition systems are huge...

Dyno charts have been posted in RB30 Hybrid Upgrades Dyno Results thread

I have decided to stick with stock ECU to see what it is capable of before going to aftermarket...Now if you look at the Nissan Consult data you will see I am right on the limit of the ECU and injectors. Engine is RB25DET head with VCT connected. Head is stock RB30 Bottom end with 8.3:1 CP pistons and REV rods. Turbo is Garret GT3076R on HKS cast low mount manifold. 0.82 exhaust housing Intake HKS POD Trust 600x300x76 F. IC Exhaust is 3.5" turbo to CAT and 3" for the rest. Wastegate is HKS 60mm with 2 1/4" screamer pipe with muffler fitted (yes with its own muffler) Detail is posted in other threads Engine management is stock. Read my other posts for more detail on how I deal with airflow cut... NOTE that the ignition was breaking down due to too much plug gap (gap set at 1mm)...You can see this in Dyno charts. Power_and_AFR.pdf Power_and_boost.pdf data_scan_277rwkW_run.pdf

No just used Nissan bearings and an N1 oil pump...I always use 100% synthetic oil such as Motul 8100 excess...5W-40...I change it every 4-5000km religously....

Yes mate happy to help out where I can....If I was you I would look at a bigger exhaust...at least 3.5" up to the cat...I also heat wrap up to the CAT...The reason for this is it does keep the exhaust gas temp higher...The higher the better...The Cat is the biggest restriction and if you temps are high, the gas viscosity is lower so the Cat is less restrictive...You can wrap the whole system but with a Mild steel system you will f%^k it up in no time due to rust...I speak from experience here... And then there is the screamer pipe...I cant recommend this enough...One of the best mods I have done... We should have a chat about doin this on your car...I dont have a lot of spare time at the moment because of work but that may change soon..we could maybe work something out...all in the name of horsepower

Yeah I used REV rods...Pistons are CP with 8.3-1 comp .... BTW Not sure if you took much notice of my CAS but its pretty radically advanced. I have milled out the slots and made up an aluminium washer to hold it tight..Because I have lower comp ratio, very free flowing exhaust (lower cyl head temperature), and lower intake temps I can go for more ignition advance...probably nothing new here for you...Also because the exhaust cam is at 4deg retard you also have to advance the CAS just to counter act retard angle on the camshaft.. I have been told before that it is not all that important where the CAS is adjusted too because the Nissan ECU can correct for it...I am 100% certain this is not the case....Because I cant change any maps, I change the base timing by moving the CAS...So it is not 15deg base...Probably more like 20-25deg btdc at idle...I basically set it by feel...I advance and advance and listen for the old faithfull rattle and then back the CAS a degree or 2.. I try and pick a warm day to do it...Of course by this stage the ECU has detected the knock and has R&R'd...You just need to drive the car around lightly for a while and it will come back... Once again this is not as good as a fully tunable ECU but it gets me by... Also not sure of you noticed my idle was a bit lumpy?? It was because the higher base timing...On a cold start the engine sounds really lumpy and cool...

Anthony...thanks for the good wrap...yeah it surprised me too...Umm just to clarify it is an RB30DET with forged internals... Yeah the engine was sitting higher...38mm in fact..bit of a give away...also makes it heaps easier to adjust cam timing Not sure how this was mixed up ..maybe I was talking about the head and you may have been talking about the block?? Anyway clarified... So for any readers with an RB25DET with stock internals and stock turbo be careful...There is not a lot you can do about the airflow cut...Unfortunately you will never make your engine laggy enough to escape or get around it...Only in ways that will impede the top end efficiency!!! Defeating the whole purpose..

Make sure you have removed 3 bolts ...The CAS fits within a rubber grommet. If it hasn't been moved for a while the rubber may have stuck to the CAS...Try moving it around a bit or running the end of screw drive around the CAS where the rubber is...They are delicate but not made of glass...Main thing is is not to drop it on concrete when you get it out...and make sure you line up the slot in the end when you put it back on..

Print outs coming as soon as my gf scans them...

Well when I first got the car I did all the standard basic mods and found the air flow cut very quickly...the ECU is definately Nissan because I use the Nissan consult software...I don't think other ECUs would work with the software.... AND..Please read my previous posts carefully...the airflow cut is still there but in knowing a little bit about how it works, I have gotten around it...

Well I will check it but I doubt it has been modified...car was very stock and I mean very stock when I got it...in fact it had no mods at all...and no sign of mods that had been put back to stock..

For those interested in what the Std ECU can do, Guilt-Toy did some Dyno power runs for me today and results are as follows: Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer at TurboTechnics Cardiff... Run 1. 230rwkW at 9psi with AFR = 12.1 Run 2. 265rwkW at 11psi with AFR = 12.2 Run 3. 278 rwkW at 13 psi with AFR = 12.5 Didnt attempt any more boost...I was already happy enough!! On Run 2 and Run 3 there was a little bit of ignition breakdown due to stock plug gap (didn't have time to regap plugs) but apart from that it was all cool...No sign of airflow cut or anything else scary And also no-one heard the screamer pipe!!! Will post up charts once scanned as well as Nissan Consult data... Thanks Guilt-toy!!! Power FC master!!! and soon to be Std ECU master!!!

Nah I wouldn't say that my car is laggy at all. When I got it was stock and yes it is laggy compared to stock..The boost starts to come on relatively early (say 3000 rpm) but does not acheive its set point until above 4000rpm. Dont forget I said earlier that I retard the exhaust cam timing by about 4deg...This makes the engine less efficient in the mid rpm range and more efficient in the upper rpm range...If I run stock cam timing I can hit airflow cut easier even at lower boost so I am cheating in way. I am effectively detuning the car around 4000 rpm to get under the air flow cut... I cant wait to get aftermarket ECU so I dont have to do this...I already have some 660cc Siemens injectors and a fuel rail made up...Also have brand spankin new Z32 afm sitting on the shelf right to go...Even has the spare plug... As far as plumbing up your screamer I would be happy to do it but then my gf would then start screaming at me...I've spent so much time on my own car at the moment and not with her... I spent 10 hours doing my one. I actually got the muffler from Wallsend muffler service..He sortof knows me and knew what I was doing so if you go in there I am sure he would help you out...Just tell him the guy with the Black Skyline sent you...He also has some 2nd hand mandrel bends and heaps of other bit and pieces pretty cheap. I always go to him first for stuff..Use my photos if you want.. Btw I think I know a mate of yours...Grant with the silver GTSt 4 door. He had a drive of my car at this party we went to..He is related to my neighbour...small world...

Yep that is strange...If you just did a ring land and the motor did not stop or sieze all of a sudden I wouldn't expect any torsional bend...Maybe the workshop dropped it...

Unfortunately it is easy to bend a crankshaft esp in a straight 6...If you lunched a piston then what may have happened is that the engine locked up suddenly on cyl No5 and the rest of it didn't want to...therefore something has to give..it may be bent but also a bit twisted..Just the inertia in the flywheel is enough to twist the crank if it is locked suddenly... It will still run but the timing will be all over the shop...ie crank is bent but cam shafts are not...I say if you ever lunch an engine get a new crank if you can afford it..

You could weld onto the factory manifold with success but you would need to get it done by someone who knows what they are doing...They need to bring the manifold up to a certain temp in a kiln and cool it properly after welding...you average exhaust workshop would have no idea..if they knew their stuff they wouldn't attempt...you need a workshop who is pressure welding certified. If it is done properly though risk cracking is very low...

I have had a chinese low mount manifold crack...Then I had a custom fab lowmount steel manifold crack..I drew the conclusion that any low mount pipe manifold for the RB25 is likely to crack... Reasons why: The RB25 lowmount manifold is long and thin. The pipes run along the manifold and of course expand with heat. The flange also gets hot but not nearly as hot as the pipes...therefore pipes will try and expand a lot more than flange..they run in same axis as the flange so they develop a shit load of stress because that have nowhere to go...high stress in steel means crack...especially if is goes through hundreds of cold hot cold cycles... Any high mount manifold is a completely different story...The pipes run out from the flange...When they get longer due to thermal expansion they are not constrained by the flange nearly as much...so not nearly as much stress and less chance of cracking... hope this makes sense

At constant boost presssure, air flow into the engine will increase with increasing engine rpm...The reason I refer to boost pressure is that the control regime for the turbo is based on boost pressure and not airflow..ie a boost pressure feedback regime is used as opposed to airflow feedback to control WG Anyway what I am saying is that Nissan's ECU airflow cut is only active at around 4000rpm... It is definitely not active above 6500rpm because this is the region where I get a constant 5.12V airflow signal right up to rev limit...I am actually saturating the air flow input (more commonly referred to by some as maxing out)...5.12V corresponds to the maximum voltage that the Nissan ECU's A-D convertor will register....Now at this point in time the ECU is on its air flow upper limit but the engine is still pulling hard...ie no ignition cut or anything...Therefore airflow cut in the 6500-7000rpm range is not active and my guess is that it is active around 4000rpm only... All that said I look forward to the day I dont have to play tricks and games with the stock ECU and make some real kW

The straps are called Panduit straps...They are the same straps that they use for CV boots sometimes.... Not that you would but they would be nearly good enough for IC piping..I have a tool that tensions them as well...Tool is worth about $300 though... They are awesome and I have never had one let go...

I have an interesting theory on the air flow cut...That is that the air flow cut only operates at around 4000rpm...so if the airflow is under the threshold at 4000 rpm (or whatever the rpm setpoint is), but then increases after that, the ECU doesn't react. ie the airflow cut is only actively monitoring airflow at one point in the rev range... So if you had a boost vs rpm curve where the boost is under the airflow cut limit at 4000 rpm but then increases after 4000 rpm you effectively bypass the airflow cut...I discovered this accidently one time when I had a boost spiking problem. I was using a cheapshit chinese t3/t4 and the hole in the turbine housing for the WG was too small...This was causing the boost to keep increasing becuase the WG could not bleed off enough exhaust...(Now I use a genuine Garrett GT3076R) Now what I found was that when the boost would spike up to about 1.3 bar in the 6000-7000 rpm range and I would still not hit airflow cut??...When I fixed the boost spike problem and ended up with a lot flatter boost control I would hit airflow cut quite severley (at about 4000rpm lose 100% power) even at 1.1 bar...As soon as dropped off the boost to 0.9bar there was no problem at 4000rpm or any other rpm point. In thinking about the airflow cut and what it is meant to achieve, I thought this makes sense...The standard ECU is designed with safety feartures to protect against detonating the engine due to bad fuel and or other component failures...A very common mode of failure is WG actuator failing to open due to disconnection of hose, damage to the hose or WG jamming closed...With standard turbo setup full boost is achieved at say 3000rpm and can really spike up to high boosts very quickly. The air flow cut 'I think' is designed to protect the engine should this factory boost control fail. I dont think it is a protection against people putting doing heaps of mods...As soon as obvious mods are done the factory warranty is voided and it is no longer Nissans problem... So based on this a smaller turbo is more likely to create an airflow cut problem than a bigger turbo would. Ie Turbo lag from large turbo helps you get past or underneath the airflow cut at 4000rpm... ie smaller turbos make peak boost right at the point where air flow is active and large turbos dont... Now what I have done is use about 4deg retard on exhaust to change the spool characteric of the turbo...ie taken out a bit of mid range efficiency so that the airflow at 4000rpm doesn;t exceed the airflow cut parameter. Then above 4000rpm it all starts to work..

And yes it does sound louder because I am sitting right in top of the muffler....I had to put it on the right side of the car due to space limitations...