**RB2530**

Yep checked mine tonight and it is on the return not the supply....

It is the fuel supply damper...pretty sure...Looks like the stock FPR but inlet and outlet are at 90 deg to each other...no other connections to it... I have R33 98 model GTSt and the damper is on the supply side... It smooths out fuel flow and may also make life a bit easier on your fuel pump...

I invented speed cameras....then joined the NSW highway patrol.... or did I really?? Nah seriously, Mechanical Engineer....$110k

I would stick with what you have at the moment and see what afm voltages you get...if they are not close to going full scale I would leave them. The reason for this is if you went for z32s and they were only measuring upto say 30-40% of full measurement scale or voltage, you are not using the full input resolution of the ECU and technically you are losing precision in your tune..The ECU uses an A-D converter to convert voltage into a digital number. Not analogue. So voltages are either rounded up or down to the nearest value. If the ECU has an input range of 0-5v and you are only using 2v of that range then between each corresponding digital value would be higher and the resulting error would be higher.. An analogy to this, If wanted to measure the length of something that was 87mm in length and you had either: 1. A 1 metre ruler with 1cm divisions or 2. A shorter ruler say 300mm long divided into 1mm increments The best option would be option 2 for measuring the 87mm. The 1m ruler would see it as (9cm) 90mm and not 87mm Hope this makes sense..

What did you get defected for?

Not sure about the RB20?? If it is like the RB25 it is CAS off, then the pulley cover off...The timing marks for the pulleys are on the pulley cover backing plate. There is one just to the right of the exhaust and one just to the left of the inlet pulley..there is also a mark on the crankshaft pulley and it is real bitch to see without taking the harmonic balancer off..It should line up with TDC and 0deg TDC timing mark on the harmonic balancer so start with engine harmonic balancer at TDC. NB that the camshafts rotate at half crank speed so there will be one TDC where the marks on the cam pulleys line up and another where they dont..If your engine starts you can assume that there will be only 1 or 2 tooth error. Now if the timing is out you need to undo the idler tensioner to put slack in the belt so you can move it...If you haven't done this before or you are not confident get someone else to do it...The consequence of getting it wrong is potentially piston into valves due to the belt coming off via broken tensioner...not good!! If you find the timing is out I would be incline to take it back to the engine builder and get him to fix it for free... Anyway hope this helps...

Its well worth checking and would explain a couple of things you mentioned...One tooth off makes a huge difference..

Do you have adjustable cam pulleys?? If so the exhaust one may have moved but it would fully retard and therefore CAS woule be more anti-clockwise to achieve 15degbtdc... Also if you have stock ECU you need to ensure that idle is around 700 rpm when setting base timing...the stock ECU pulls 10 deg of timing out just above idle for some reason even at no load...i think it is an emmisions thing....

+1 from me...

Well I feel better now...So So far we have more Newcastle people not being defected than people being defected... And I am not having a go at you callan but an exhaust that is 80mm off the ground is very noticeable and asking for attention...I appreciate that 3.5" is tight under the rear subframe but I would have thought you could of got it higher than 80mm unless you car is horribly low...Once again I am not having a go and I hope you got it sorted... I am just trying to find out what sort things the cops pick on in Newcastle...I have standard height GTSt and the stats so far suggest I will be fine (or lets say ok instead of 'fine')

I am not 100% (but 99%) on this but using the black loop does not work properly with a timing light. The timing light will fire ok but at the wrong time...This is why, The way ignition modules and ignition coils etc work is you have two windings...primary and secondary..what happens is the ecu energises the primary coil and as a result a magnetic flux builds the primary coil. The secondary (high voltage coil due to larger number of windings) is also wound in the same magnetic field ..as soon as the primary field has been developed the ecu then drops the current instantly and the magnetic field collapses...The sudden change in field induces a high voltage in the secondary and this fires the sparkplug... simple so far?? The time taken to build the magnetic field in the primary is known as the dwell...if you have ever worked on distributors and point you would undertsand this already...ie dwell angle The black loop is actually the connected to the primary winding on cyl number 1...BUT when you connect a timing light to it you are measuring when primary coil is energised and NOT when the spark is produced. The spark is delayed by the dwell time which in an EFI engine is hard coded in the software...So if you use a std inductive timing light on the black loop, you will always be wrong...You retard the CAS as a result..Let me guess?? the CAS is rotated fully clockwise.... The solution is pull coil pack no 1 off and use a short high tension lead between it and the plug. Connect your inductive timing light to thsi and you will then be measuring the actual spark... The black loop is meant to be used with a full engine diagnostic computer that triggers on the negative edge of the ecu ignition output... Hope this helps

Just wondering who in Newcastle has been defected, what for and did you have an eng certificate?? I go into the Foreshore but rarely take my GTSt anymore...I walk the strip sometimes and some of the try hard shit I see is entertaining and good for a laugh...BUT Unfortunately there is some real f**king doofusses in there that spoil it for everybody...Just have to look at the amount of rubber left on the road in some sections..Thats why the cops are in there!! I have never been defected or pulled over...I have 12 points and have had them for years...So I really am a bit pissed off that I now have to avoid that area in my car because of the risk of some irate cop classing me as one of the dumb f**ks who hang out there... The reason I ask the first question is I am just curious how I am going to go if / when I do get pulled over...

Just had some 452s fitted last weekend... 265/40/17 on the rear....Have only done 200km on them but so far they have been awesome and are still green...Traction is way higher than what I had beforehand...255/40 Yokohama ES100s but they were very tired... Falken 452s get my vote!!...Btw I paid $290 a tyre from Tempe tires...Could have got them cheaper if I went 255 but I wanted 265...

Go the HKS cast if you can find one...With big turbo though clearance of engine mount can be an issue...The one I bought came with T04Z and modded engine mount...it was out of R33 front cut though so it will fit but need to mod the engine mount.. More work but so is changing cracked ebay ones.... Btw running rb30 bottom end fixes clearance problem...Just one more of the 10,000 benefits of the RB30DET....

I once used a 'LASER'....

I am curious about this shimming as well...would be interested in knowing where you fit the shims...

There are two types of these...Shit and Excellent.... If you use a good brand (not a $10 pair) you will have no troubles....They are made for this sort of problem...

f**k...ya got me...

Ok...Now if SAU can demonstrate a loss of credibility, reputation and resulting damages due to those comments 'and' it can also be shown that the comments are untrue you have a defamation case...hint hint moderators...

It costs $50,000 to $100,000 dollars to fabricate tooling to make a tyre...each size...every tyre sold has a component that goes towards recovering this cost... there is also a large range of rubber compounds used and these vary in price...and you guessed it, the better performing compounds are more expensive that the average performing... in reality your best going for a tyre size that an OEM such as Porsche, BMW use as stock...then there will me more options available at better pricing... There is also an unfortunate group of bling boys going around who think the bigger rim..the better...yes you fit 20' on may cars today and if it is discomfort and crap road holding iyou want, it is the way to go...also great for shortening the life of suspension components as well and maybe even the life of your car body... Now I am not sure what the consensus on tyre size would be on these forums would be but I am guessing 17" or 18"...If you think this is too small than you are more likely to enjoy forums that I dont...

Clear tail lights also add about an extra 2psi as long as they are tuned and highflowed....

Please have a read of some of my posts..It is all in there...The only fudge iwith the ignition is increasing base timing by a fair bit...very effective CAI and high flowing exhaust allows heaps of ig advance which all rb engines respond very well to...You adjust idle rpm so that stock ECU runs idle at 5deg tdc adn not 15deg...Therefore you can run additional 10deg advance without affecting idle quality...

AFM is maxing out at 6000rpm... see charts below plus dyno charts. these are reposts.. we only did three WOT runs...note that I had ignition issues due to 1.0mm gap. didn't have time to regap..I have no idea what the partial afrs are...I monitor EGTs full time using a fast acting thermocouple fitted in the exhaust manifold so i am not concerned about lean afrs I run standard base fuel pressure but use a non stock fp regulator...type and brand is my secret for the moment... Power_and_AFR.pdf Power_and_boost.pdf data_scan_277rwkW_run.pdf

This is getting so f**king tiring!! It is not a theory...It is fact and a f**king 1st hand experience as well as being based on research and testing I have done. ...My experience is with GTST ECU and not GTR...What you did with your GTR who knows...maybe you had an air leak just after the afms somewhere or one of your afms was buggered...who knows??? I have proven to myself (and a couple of others on this forum who have driven my car) what the stock ECU can do..from now on I will keep it to myself...your loss!!

Please read my post..I am using rb25 afm...No point in using z32 with stock ECU...The limit is actually one within the ECU. The ECU has an A-D convertor that reads the afm voltage and converts it into a number. The largest voltage it can read is 5.12v...So using the z32 is a waste of time with stock rb25 ECU and fuel system... Both afms run a 0-6v resolution but at full scale the z32 is actually flowing an extra 50%...