**RB2530**

Yes RB30DET with VCT head and RB25DET S2 Stock ECU and stock afm. This has been confirmed by Guilt-toy who did the dyno runs...The Z32 will not run properly with stock ECU unless you modify the output voltage to emulate the rb25 afm..Even then you are limited as the ECU has a 5.12v input ceiling.... All I'm gonna say here is work out how things work!! Then you can optimise what you have rather then spending more money...Not sure if you realise but a rule of thumb for estimating HP based on injector size at (90% duty cycle) and assuming reasonably good thermodynamic efficiency at satisfactory AFRs is = injector flow rate divided by 5 multiplied by number of cyclinders...so for stock RB25det injectors at 375cc/min >>>>>>375 /5 x 6 = 450HP...Guess what my 277rwkw is close to??? So based on this I know that all of my supporting mods are working.... As far as the stock ECU is concerned the only bad thing I have come across is the airflow cut...its a pain in the arse and I have done a lot of work around get around this...Most of what I have done is in other threads I have started..so I wont repeat it here... AND Yes yes yes I am looking forward to tunable ECU and bigger fuel system because that 277rwkW was made at only 11-12 psi and engine has been built with 20-25psi in mind...I am really ahead because I have built a very efficient setup, made decent power without having to pour shitloads of boost into it yet.. good luck my team!!

I run a decently sized exhaust, 3ltr displacement with 8.3:1 comp, bigger turbo, pod filter CAI etc etc and the stock ECU runs fine and makes 277rwkw at 12psi with 12.4 AFR....It drives like factory The good thing about afm ecus is that they measure exactly what they need to know '---air flow---'. So if you do any mods that increase airflow the ECU can adpat to this...They are very much foolproof and adapt to intake / exhaust mods.. Everyone is so quick to write off the stock ECU and go aftermarket when chances are the problem is elsewhere... I would get a hold of some Nissan consult software and diagnose the problem properly before racing off to for an ECU...

Thats the thing...The difference may be small and insignificant OR large and significant. Even if you are using the stock ECU you are not protected if you bypass the afm...I know...I have one rb25 stock piston in 50-100 pieces sitting in my desk draw because the BOV plumback hose came off the intake pipework... I think it is fair to say that the 'potential' for varying ratios is very great especially if you use two individual filters, one for the afm and one for the bypass...you are dealing with airflows at very low pressure and it wouldn't take much to change the balance significantly...My gut feel would be up to 20-50% difference over time... From a risk point of view even if the likelihood is low, the consequence is high so the risk is still unacceptable...I would only run such a setup if I had EGT or AFR monitoring running all the time. Even then I would be concerned about the tune changing suddenly... Thats just my opinion though but as always I have put up the reasons behind it...

I have thought of doing this before and in concept it will work and maybe some guys have used it as well...BUT In reality I think it is very risky due to the following... There is no way that you can be assured that you will maintain a 50/50 airflow split...I appreciate that from a tuning point of view it does not really matter if it is not exactly 50/50 airflow between afm and bypass because you just tune to to suit anyway...BUT what happens if or when the ratio between the measured flow and the non measured flow changes...This would definately happen if you were using two seperate filters...one for the afm and one for the bypass...Even is they are mounted side by side one will get dirtier quicker then the other..Also when you are tuning on a dyno you dont have road speed air entering the engine bay so your tune may instantly change as soon as you get out on the road... If you try and use the one filter connected to both the afm and bypass to get away the above issue, unless your design is very well thought out, the afm vs bypass ratio will also change with differing atmospheric conditions such as the ambient air temp, humidity etc This is due to small changes in the flow characteristics of air due to changing temp, humidity etc etc etc..A good design would achieve laminar flow within the filter in all locations which in practise would be very difficult to do especcially when you are seperating the aiflow into two individual flows... My suggestion would be dont do the afm bypass thing...

I would be careful with the paint stripper and aluminium...Some of the paint strippers I have used may attack the aluminium and dull it severley...test on a section that you can normally see!!

Bizarre!!!

Not sure about the heat shield...Cant remember cause I haven't seen a stocker for quite a while... The WG linkage will be tight and hard to move if you cant get a decent hold of it..Remember that it operates at 5-10 psi air pressure so a bit of effort will be required...do you have access to compressed air??

I am keen...count me in!!

It could be that the actuator has a problem where something inside it has broken or come away and is stopping it from opening as much as it should...I haven't heard of this happening before but there is a first time for everything...As I said before if you have compressed air available try pressuring the actuator and see how much it opens...But once again only add 15-20 psi tops otherwise you may blow apart the actuator... I once modded an external gate so that I could adjust the spring tension..It worked well but when it was wound up the spring would bottom out (fully compress) and this limited the travel of the WG and produced boost spiking...

Pull the actuator open as much as you can and make sure the linkage on the flapper shaft rotates at least 60-70deg. I think that is a good start. It may be that the flapper valve is jamming on something when it is trying to open...or there maybe something broken inside the WG actuator that is stopping it from opening...If you have access to compressed air you can try pressurising the WG actuator. Use a tyre valve or something and just give it a little bit of air...DONT GIVE IT 100psi otherwise actuator go boom!!! If you can get the WG open and wire it open and go for a drive and the turbo makes no or very small boost up to redline you have then proven that: 1. Your setup can flow enough exhaust through the WG to prevent boost spiking 2. The problem is centred around the WG and actuator and not some other bizarre condition elsewhere in the car... BTW have you done any exhaust mods recently...I have heard of cases of aftermarket dump pipes designed in such a way that the flapper gets caught on a flange.....Also if there is a divider in you dump pipe and the WG flow is blocked for whatever reason it will cause spiking... Apart from the above I am all out of suggestions..

How did you go???

By the sounds of it you had a boost creep issue even before you fitted the Atomic boost tap (what ever that is..never heard of one)...Earthing the factory solenoid should get a constant 7-10 psi depending on mods..exhaust, intake filter etc... Fitting the boost tap (I assume this is just a bleed valve) will not fix boost creep...It can only make it worse.. Most common reason for boost creep is waste gate too small or restricted or waste gate not able to open fully...If you are using an internal gate check the actuator linkage and make sure it is not fouling on anything... What I suggest is take off the bleed valve and unearth the soleniod so that you get minimum boost...then find out why the boost is spiking (check actuator). Fix this and only then play with the bleed valve...

I can't make any comment about your running rich problem but the engine cutting out sounds very much like boost (airflow in a Nissan) cut. I assume you are running stock ECU and stock turbo..There is heaps of info on this so do a search...

My 2c is make sure you use the right tools...Good quality spanners that are the right size...This goes for all occasions but especially with exhaust nuts because they can be pretty tight. Always use a ring spanner of you can.. If you cuts corners with cheap spanners or the wrong size it is pretty much a given you will take the corners off nuts turn a 2 hour job into a 2 week one... good luck..

Yep I sure am saying that..If you run a bleed valve and the solenoid you can increase the boost with the bleed valve and the when the solenoid opens you will bleed even more air of so you will get a second stage.. The GTST solenoid is binary meaning that it is either on or off (not like in an EBC where the solenoid is pulse widht modulated). When it is off (below) 4500rpm it doesn't allow any air through. When it is on it opens and lets a small amount of air to flow through it so it is acting like a bleed valve...The ait flows though an orifice in the solenoid that is roughly only 0.5mm dia.....not sure of the exact number but it is small.. The reason that the two stages are not so far apart is when you use a bleed valve you drop the pressure in the feedback line and therefore the not as much air will flow through the solenoid when it opens Oh and a hint with the bleed valve is make sure you place it somewhere where it wont get too hot...Many bleed valves when they get hot will bleed different amounts of air depending on whether they are hot or cold...So put it some where in the engine bay where it gets air flow and away from the exhaust etc..Otherwise you be constantly adjusting it.... Hope this makes sense..

You can do it either way.. It is really quite simple...The more air you bleed away from the WG actuator the less it will open and therefore the more boost you will have...If you run a bleed valve + leave the solenoid you will still have two stages of boost...the second stage occurs at 4500rpm when the soleniod opens.. The more you open the bleed valve, the difference in the two stages will actually reduce... If you want to get away from the 2 stage boost I would disconnect the solenoid instead of wiring it to ground permanently...

Couldn't find any 98RON in Newcastle this morning....Shell have not had V-power for at least 6-8 weeks up here...BP are now all out...Some servos up here don't even stock 98RON at all... Anyone know anyone who has access to toluene???

Try unplugging two of your coil packs...get that 200SX performance as well as the sound...

Many many thanks for that...I knew there would be something...I might try and fabricate some sort of a grounding bar with the OFC cable soldered to it so it stays neat and tidy... Any idea who retails that Chemtron battery grease?? I tried a couple of local Auto elecs whose only reply was....Huh??? They are still trying to work out all that new fangled EFI shit...

It would depend on what the fault is I think...I do know that if you disconnect the knock sensors the ECU detects this and automatically pulls timing out over the whole rpm range..So if knock sensor is open circuit, the same thing would happen...and open circuit sensor would be the most common failure mode..

I am soon to be changing the spark plugs in my RB25-30DET and read something somewhere about using conductive grease (electrical) underneath the coil packs where they make contact with the cradles and where cradles make contact with the head..The aim of this is to ensure that a strong ground or earth is made..To me this makes sense... I also though of using it on the contact at the top of the plug BUT...if the grease melts or runs down the plug insulator,,,NOT GOOD Does anyone use this grease and if so where do you get it from?? BTW the white grease that Jaycar sell is thermal conducting and not necessarily electrical conducting.. I have done a search and couldn't find much info at all. Apologies in advance if there is a thread already but I obviously couldn't find it....

R33 ECU is behind LHS kick panel under glove box...To reset the ECU just disconnect battery and press brake pedal for a few seconds...Nothing special about the brake pedal apart from the fact that it turns on the brake lights and this pulls any residual wiring system voltage to 0V...head lights on may do the same thing... This is what i done in the past...I am sure there are different ways... I dont think you need to disconnect ECU....

Yep they come with a solenoid that opens at 4500rpm...When is opens it bleeds enough air to add extra 2-3psi of boost...it feeds back into air intake just after afm so that the air calculation is not stuffed up...From memory stock boost is 5 psi below 4500rpm and jumps to 7or8 psi above 4500rpm...Most people just remove it or permanently short the terminal to ground which holds it open all the time...Its really basic and I dont know why Nissan bothered with it...but anway they did... I ended up replacing mine with a hydraulic needle control valve (now have EBC)...Its was better than a standard bleed valve because it passed all bled air back into intake...whereas normal bleed valves bleed air to atmosphere and are therefore technically illegal...

Umm fuse box is on the RHS....on mine anyway...RHS looking from back of car towards front... Yeah if you are not sure get someone else to look at it..But alway ask them to explain to you what they did/do... I am always one for learning....I am in NSW so I can't recommend anyone for you to go to but I am sure someone can that is more local to you..Good luck...