**RB2530**

It cost me about $100 in total..About $50 for the muffler (I will check invoice for type but it is straight through 2 1/4" inner with a 4" outer dia centre chamber glass packed)..I was lucky to find some 2nd hand SS mandrel bends very cheap ($20) and then a 2 bolt flange kit and gasket etc took it up to about a $100...All labour supplied by me...free....I spoke to a couple of 'exhaust Gurus' and they said dont do it..."Its not the sort of noise you can muffle...WTF?? What does the main exhaust system do??? Just on the power, bit yes the car is making about 250-260rwkW and I know I will have my doubters here but 'I use a standard ECU' with standard injectors...I run a rising rate regulator and run heaps more ignition advance than stock. I will be the first to admit that the tune would be shit and fuel is my limiting factor by far. I run a very fast acting thermocouple in my exhaust and measure EGTs regularly and never exceed 850deg C...Engine also has forged internals and I have Nissan Consult software to see what is going on... Just a note on exhaust...I once spoke to a Guru once who told the for a turbo car the best exhaust is no exhaust...Cam overlap and the fact that the turbine provides heaps of back pressure means that anything after turbo acts to impede gains...So in saying that even if you are only running 200rwkW on 3" exhaust, going for a 3.5" exhaust will still give you a gain...and then if you go for 4" exhaust even more of a gain..but probably not as much....Nothing is linear in the real world....Have you ever heard anybody say "shit I have put on a larger exhaust and lost power" Not on a turbo car...Maybe yes for a NA car... Also the bigger the exhaust, the less laggy it will be...simple reason is that increase pressure drop across turbine which puts more energy into turbine wheel...So yes the exhaust is big but will be perfect for when bigger injectors and good tuning happens..

I had been thinking about doing this for some time and eventually did..I was making a new dump pipe (3.5") and was about to start making the waste gate plumback pipe but thought I might try a screamer pipe just to see how it went... No dyno runs were done but it felt much stronger above about 4000-5000 rpm....ie when WG starts to open a fair bit...Then I did the maths and 3 1/2" pipe + 2 1/4" WG pipe is equivalent to at least a 4" dia pipe....Btw I have a 60mm external gate so it is very free flowing...So at this stage I confirmed to myself that a screamer pipe does have a performance advantage (as long as WG pipe isn't some small pissy dia)...But the noise is huge...Way too loud and sure to be pinged for it one day... Now I am not sure who else had tried this and I was told by quite a few that it wouldn't make any difference but I fitted a muffler to my screamer pipe...Now I know some are going to say that you lose the advantage of the screamer due to extra back pressure and I agree partially. You do restrict the screamer pipe a small amount but where you gain is that the WG exhaust never re-enters the exhaust..This is known to cause extra back pressure due to turbulence...This is fact...also the way I look at it, when my WG opens my exhaust system increases in size by the equivalent of 2 1/4" dia...So it is equivalent to 3 1/2" when you are just cruising and jumps up to just over 4" when you need it... Not rocket science... Now as far as what it sounds like...It is hard to describe...Definitely a lot quieter than a full on screamer pipe...It still has a rough note to it but you can only just hear it above the main exhaust...Part of the reason would be that it dumps under the drivers seat...But it is heaps quieter than a standard screamer..I would describe the sound as being a touch louder than plumback exhaust but engine sounds more like a V8 or V12.... From a RTA point of it is wrong on 2 counts...A) It still bypasses the CAT and its outlet and B) is not 1m past the last opening window...As far as B) is concerned it is not safety issue because whenever the WG opens, the car will be moving and exhaust fume will be blown away by air travelling under the car... Point A) concerns me and I my plumb it back soon... Anyway just thought I would put this out there... Any comments good or bad welcome...

For your purposes I would just treat the external WG as if it was an internal one but just make sure you use the bottom vacuum line connection...Leave the top one open and dont connect anything to it...You then just use the bleed valve as if you had an internal gate...This will work just the same.....The bleed valve wont know any difference...

Sorry mate I am relatively new to this forum and don't know what you mean by 'sik' Please explain

I've always been a fan of trying to get the spring tension such that you acheive the right boost with just a little bit of bleed, as opposed to using a light spring and bleeding off heaps of air..Bleeding of heaps of air I dont think is the way to go because there are more variations that can occur... ie bleed valve can move and will behave differently if moved to a different spot in the engine bay and runs at a heaps different temperature... Also technically the bleed valve is a boost leak so you should always seek to minimise this... You should consider a good EBC in the near future...

Just remember that it is impossible to achieve boost below the psi of what the spring is...ie if someone has put a 19psi spring in you cannot achieve 12psi...some external gates come standard with pretty big springs...they are generally colour coded to nominate the psi of the spring...

That diagram looks as if it is for an EBC set up??? I would not connect the top line because in your setup it should just be open or a breather...Take one line from your IC pipe work and connect it to the base of the WG actuator...make sure this works first and then worry about the bleed valve.. Do you know what size spring is in your wastegate?? It may be just give you the boost you want with the nedd for the bleed valve....also do you realise you can get different springs for external WGs...

If you are using just a manual boost controller (ie bleed valve etc) or no boost controller you connect the vacuum / boost line to the base of the WG actuator. It opens the WG when positive pressure is applied...The top connection when pressurised acts to hold the WG shut so dont use this one... Some or most electronic boost controller use both. They do this so that they can hold the WG closed for longer... The top connection also acts as a breather so make sure you dont block it off other wise the WG wont work properly....

Just a small point of correction. Stock ECU doesn't actually have a boost limit...It has an airflow limit which is slightly different. The ECU doesn't even get a boost or MAP input...It looks at the maf (mass air flow) signal instead and if this gets too high it retards timing etc etc etc. The limit is also a function of rpm. As long as your air flow meter is in good condition and there are no leaks between it and you compressor inlet (ie extra air can getting in without the air flow meter registering it) you are pretty safe...Stock turbos get unhappy running above 12psi all the time though and will eventually give up... Also the factory boost gauges are notoriously inaccurate..Get an aftermarket one... Anyway glad you were impressed in breaking the 200rwkW mark...

Maybe try disconnecting the wiring to fuel injectors (so it wont start) and turning it over and listen to see if it sounds normal. If compression is low in one or more cylinders due to blown head gasket it won't turn over at a constant speed...it will speed up when on compression stroke of bad cylinder.. Certainly not a subtitute for comp and leak down test but very easy to do and will indicate major comp loss...

I miss the days before daylight savings when the curtains didn't fade...

Stock non-rice hyundai excels...

In reality that question cannot be answered because there are quite a few different muffler designs (internal design) out there... I run a 3.5" to the cat. 3" inch cat, 3" resonator and 3" rear muffler with twin 2" outlets plus a 2 1/4" screamer** pipe off external gate going into a 2 1/4" straight through centre chamber muffler which dumps under the car just behind gear box... **I call it a 'moaner pipe'... Its very legal db until waste gate opens and then would be just slightly over but sounds like a V12... It really depends on what brand and design of muffler and resonator you use...

Where is his windscreen washer bottle....exposed pod...defect defect defect!!!

Bump

Mmmm back to it eh...Well the above quote is the point to my argument...No one would accept a 1-2mm dia hole in their induction pipework would they? Well if you use a stock GTSt BOV this is exactly what you have...its the breather hole in the misubishi BOV...

Bump

An chasing some EBC red (heard they dont make the greens anymore) front disc pads for S2 GTSt. Has anyone bought any recently at a good price??...If so who from and how much??

Try using these...

Try using these...

Just some info for everyone.. I run the same manifold and they are excellent. Mine also has the crack in the internal splitter web. It was there when I bought it (2nd hand) and I checked it (after about 25,000 kms of use) about 3-4 months ago (fitted GT3076R) and it had not grown or changed at all.. It must be a common thing with this casting as the web is very thin..the rest of the manifold is very heavy wall and I cant see how the crack on mine could grow anymore...esp in Cast Iron So what I am saying is dont worry about the crack... And no I am not a friend of "BHDave"...

Make sure you atmo BOV is not facing the nuts...Maybe it is blowing them loose...

Also make sure you tighten the nuts in a sequence. ie pull the flanges together with a light tension and then tighten each nut in about 2-3 stages...I go diagonally across the flange. Not sure what the Nissan workshop manual says about this but it would be similar...

Yes get some good studs and nuts..Dont use bolts as you put more stress in the threads in the manifold when tightening them...Studs and nuts are high tensile so more resistant to tearing so you can get more tightening torque into them.. As far as thread locker on these I never use it....I use heaps of copper based anti seize...Never had one seize but never had one loosen...It lubricates the nuts so you cab get them tighter without damaging threads Oh and never never never use brass nuts!! (I have been told to use them by Repco believe it or not). You may as well use plastic!!

From the point of view of reliability, a seperate pressure switch would get my vote. ie if one of the sensors fails you have a backup that is still working..I am going to do the same thing...Just trying to find a switch with the right pressure switching point... The only issue is running two t-pieces. I run the VVT oil feed line through a t-piece as well so I would have 3. The assembly will get quite long which is bad because you increase the mechanical stress on the fitting that screws into the engine...Not a good thing if that breaks...however your gauge and light / buzzer will come on straight away if it does...You could get tricky and wire the pressure switch into the ignition so it cuts the engine. The only trouble is you would never get your engine started because you dont get decent oil pressure at cranking speed. To fix this you need a timer that ignores the switch for a few seconds...more complications and not worth worrying about. You may do other damage as well if it shutsdown at the wrong time.....ie WOT 7000rpm My plans are to make up a 1/8" bsp manifold (1 inlet and 3-4 outlets) and mount it somewhere on the block or on the firewall feed by some good hose...