**RB2530**

Do you know where the boost control solenoid is?? It is mounted near the power steering fluid reservior on the LHS of the engine bay...There should be 2 small hoses going to the solenoid. I think one goes from the solenoid to the intake pipework near the airflow meter. The other goes to a T piece that is connected to the intake pipe that runs toward the throttle body and the other side of the T goes to the WG actuator..If you disconnect the T peice line at the solenoid you have effectively put a big bleed valve in and the boost should increase. Drive the car very lightly off boost and find a section of road that you can cruise at about 100...in 4th gear gradually open the throttle to see what your boost does...Do it gradually because if you dont and it is the WG actuator that is buggered you will find 15psi or more very quickly and the car will boost cut... Now if after doing this the boost doesn't change it is not the actuator. If it does change it must be the actuator...Re connect the line to the solenoid and check the actuator...make sure you reconnect all vacuum lines even if the boos increases and the car has more power. It is risky to leave lines disconnected... Also one of the first things i should have asked is how are you ready boost...from the factory gauge??If so check the gauge is reading accurately...Normally they dont after a while...

Yeah ok if you have absolutely no idea what you are doing don't do it...If you decide to, I can't stress enough dont drive it hard!! What should happen if the WG is ok is that you will get a boost spike if too much pedal...That is why I said pedal the car very lightly..This means very light throttle...If the WG spring is weak or broken, the exhaust pressure itself will force WG open and you get only a small rise in boost... You will hit air flow cut (aka boost cut) before anything significant happens if every thing else is stock...

Reasons?? Just curious thats all...

Just thought you could also disconnect your wastegate and see what difference this makes...BUT DO NOT DRIVE IT HARD!!! Take it very easy and just lightly pedal it to see if it exceeds 5psi...

If your WG spring is broken (inside actuator) that could be it...I can't remember since stock setup is a long time ago for me, but if you can access the rod coming out of the actuator make sure that you can't easily move it in and out of the actuator. If you can then the spring is broken...I don't think this a common failure though but worth checking if you can...5psi sounds like what you what get if the WG is opening too much due to a broken or very weak spring...

What size is your turbo and what type of wastegate (internal or external) and at what rpm does it acheive 5psi??

Yeah understand that although the BOV protects the compressor so based on this you would put the BOV as close to the compressor as possible..plus the air is hotter at the compressor outlet and would flow through BOV easier... I have seen BOVs fitted to I/C itself as well... I am with you, I dont think it makes a lot of difference....

I'd be interested to know why?

I run that plenum as well...At first I made up a pipe that ran from the intake pipework just before the throttle body going across the front of the motor (like in the picture) but lower, back to the compressor intake pipework...It was 1 1/4" pipe and ran just behind the cooling fan...I then changed this...Now the BOV is connected to the pipe work running to the I/C on the intake side of the engine...Much less pipework... In my opinion either way works fine, the only difference is, if the BOV is fitted to the hot side of the IC, when it opens it passes hotter air back into the intake... BUT when running pipework across the front of the engine, the pipe work heats up anyway because it is just behind the radiator so it heats the intercooled air anyway...The air in the plumback pipe is static until the BOV opens and heats up to the pipework temperature...So you dont really win either way

I just remembered about a car I saw with a similar problem..What had happened was the guy fitted the CAS back to his car without the rubber grommet....The rubber grommet actually has brass spacers in it where the CAS bolts go through. If the grommet (and therefore spacers) are not used the end of the CAS shaft will bottom out in the end of the cam shaft...this puts a big load on the CAS bearing and it will stuff the bearing and CAS in no time.. Also as previosly mentioned check all of your belts are tight...Loose belts will squeak especially when they are cold...To diagnose sqeaking belts, start the car and spray the pulleys with something called belt dressing...You can get it from Repco...If it is the belts, as soon as you spray them they go quiet...Well they do for me anyway...

Depends on how radical the tune actually is...'a few mods to me means std ECU or aftermarket ECU with close to stock tune'...Good thing about Nissan platform is it uses afm over map sensor (as you know) and therefore any changes to the basic airflow characteristics of engine (due to cam adjusment) are acounted for by ECU... And when I was thinking 'fine' I was thinking safe engine operation vs piston colliding into valve...

Unfortunately if it turns out they have moved, to get them perfect again, it will mean dyno work... But you always can just have them set at zero (no dyno work required) and your car will be fine...Adjustable cam gears change the power curve characteristics of your engine...You can tune them to give more high end power but you lose mid range and vice versa...The gains you get will depend a lot on other engine mods as well..If you do a search you will find out heaps more info on this... Main thing at the moment is to make sure they are not loose and jumping around everywhere which is a nightmare waiting to happen....Better to have them set at zero and tight rather than bent valves and a big bill....

Mate I would get it checked out...If it is a cam pulley adjustment that has come loose there is a risk that it will shear or wear the adjustment bolts. That may then lead to loss of drive on the cam shaft and that is very very bad...Piston colliding with valve territory...equivalent to broken timing belt...Dont want to scare you but also dont want to see you stuff your engine... You can easily check the cam pulley adjustment bolts on the exhaust cam by just removing the crank angle sensor but if you are not confident in doing this, get someone else to do it...You need to make sure it goes back on properly...

Yep...apologises for off topic posts..My point was just make your 'possibly illegal' pod less obvious and the legal question becomes less relevant... cheers

There is the law...and then there is reality!!! My post is not about the law but about how police perceive the law and their own powers to enforce it...It is also not illegal to wear a 'I am a bank robber' t-shirt....But if you do, and then stand outside a bank for three hours and get some attention from the cops are you at fault?? Answer is no, but are the cops gonna just say 'ok son, you are within your rights, have a nice day' ??? Just like everybody, cops stereo type people and if you have a car that screams out I am modified, you are gonna get attention from them... If you are not happy to debate finer points of the law with a Hwy Patrol officer who basically just hates hoons in the first place...swing the odds in your favour and f&*ck off all of the bling and obvious modifications. Have you heard of stealth??...Do you want to drive performance car...or do you want to just show off to everybody else???

The manifold vacuum will always drop as rpm drops...this is normal Have you done any recent mods??...Also disconnect all sensor plugs and spray with contact cleaner or CRC to make sure they are ok...Do all of the ones you can see..It wont be wasted even if you do ones that are not likely to make a difference...ie fuel injectors... Also turn on AC and see if that make any difference...if it does it is most likely a vac leak or AAC problem...(turning on AC open another solenoid next to the AAC solenoid)

So, what changes when an s2 r33 gtst reaches its operating temp? All EFI cars have a cold starting maps and as the car warms up the tuning will change...The ECU targets an idle set point but only adjust AAC valve to do this...So a vacuum leak may not make as much difference when the engine is cold so it appears to be normal but chnages when it warms up...

It sounds like a vacuum leak...The first thing I would check is your AAC valve which you have already done.... Also check your CAS is tight and hasn't rotated...Not likely but easy to check... Also check all of your intake pipe work as well...When you drive it does it still make boost normally???

Seriously, my regime is as follows: 1. If you are gonna do it...DO IT properly and dont drive your car with it half finished..ie...don't drive your car without your front bar / get that washer bottle fitted, if it doesn't fit, get a smaller one... 2. If you CAN buy it in 'Black'....Buy it in 'Black'...dont buy the bright blue or anodised red colour...Even chrome or anodised clear is better than Blue or Red...(unfortunately cops are not colour blind) 3. If you CAN'T buy it in 'Black'...PAINT it 'Black'... you own a performance car...not a mobile rainbow...If you really like lots of colours become an artist... 4. Get an Engineers Certificate...Your driving a Skyline...not a Commodore...You CAN afford it!! Shoving an engineers cert in a cops face is not the best way to make friends but it shows them that your car has already been checked for legalillty...(most of the time anyway) 5. If it looks to TOO low...Every other cop will also think it looks too low...even from 500m away 6. Dont put stickers all over your car!!! This is a good one....'No officer my car is standard....I am just minding those stickers for a friend??' 7. And last of all, dont use clear tail light lenses (for the commodore and lancer owners out there), little blue lights everywhere (let the cops think they are special cause they are the only people who are allowed to play with blue light) or super bright head light globes that shine from Sydney to Newcastle...'You are young!! You have good eyesight' Save the Zenons or whatever they are for when you are 70 and really need them!!!!

Only one intake mod eh??? Mmmm....I will choose NOS injection... :laughing-smiley-014: But I will secure it!!!

Yeah thast probably all they are but they may less prone to breaking down at high boost levels... Has anyone tried any other multi electrode plugs?? If so how did they go??

That looks good. I also had this idea of making a 4" dump pipe and plumbing the WG pipe into it but where it enters the 4"pipe continue the 2" WG pipe inside the 4"pipe up to the cat..This would ensure that the WG gas is close to the same temperature as the main exhaust and it would be travelling in the same direction therefore reducing turbulence... You will never get a plumback system to perform as well as a 'Screamer Pipe' (non plumback) unless the cross sectional area (CSA) of the overall system after plumback is greater than the CSA of the WG pipe plus the main system...

I might try and find an Aussie distributor of those plugs over here...I have seen something similar but they were not Zex...I have to do something with my plugs anyway so if I can get with a similar design I will try them...

HYPERFORMANCE™ SPARK PLUGS ZEX™ engineers realized early on that factory style spark plug designs are very prone to detonation in nitrous and forced induction engines. Factory style spark plugs tend to have a high heat range and a long ground strap. This is fine for stock combustion pressures and temperatures, but it is very dangerous in a nitrous or forced induction performance engine. Under nitrous use or boost, factory style spark plugs tend to overheat in just a few seconds. This overheating causes the spark plug ground strap and center electrode to turn into a "glow plug". This condition causes air and fuel in the combustion chamber to pre-ignite and detonate, causing engine damage. ZEX™ is the only nitrous system manufacturer with specific spark plugs manufactured for the unique requirements that nitrous and forced induction engines have. ZEX™ Hyperformance™ spark plugs have an optimal heat range and ground strap design that maximizes the safety and performance of your nitrous or forced induction engine. 82003-1 Single Plug 82003-4 Set of Four Plugs 82003-6 Set of Six Plugs Have you seen these before???

Do you have an M14 x 1.5 tap???...I am gonna put an extra plug in each cylinder...Gap one at 0.75 and one at 1.05...Best of both worlds...