Dicer

The VN has 16% more torque according to the factory specs. The R33 is a similar weight (likely lighter) with similar rated torque and power levels. As per what I originally responded to, I am still yet to see how a VN is considerably faster than an N/A R33. I have a VR and I'm aware of the early power delivery in the RPM range of VN-VS commodores. If anything, straight line speed should be similar. Taking a corner will be a different matter I'm sure, but to suggest a Commodore is considerably faster than a similar Skyline is inaccurate.

R33 Auto GTS25 (N/A) 1350KG, 140KW VN Commodore 1310-1490KG, 125KW How is the VN considerably faster?

Updated pics, make an offer

Bump.

2000 GT-V R34 Skyline (series 2) White N/A coupe 76,500KM's GT-V model extras include some GT-T series features: - Upgraded brakes - 17" GT-T Rims - GT-T Suspension This is a late model Series 2 with the colour coded steering wheel and shift knob, updated electric mirror button, front bar etc. Standard features: - RB25DE engine (147KW) - Viscous LSD - Electric windows - Electric mirrors - Electric fold in mirrors - Climate control - Tiptronic with gear up/down buttons on the steering wheel too - Dual / SRS air bags - ABS - Manual seat adjustment including height - Steering wheel height adjustment I imported the car in Jan 2007 through iron chef imports. It was auction grade 4b with 63,000 KM's. Over the past year and a half I've added approx 15,000 KM's which were mostly highway, some city driving. City driving will net you up to 400KM while highway or combination city/hwy driving will get you minimum of 500KM's per tank of petrol. I have always used BP 98 RON fuel. I have a USB consult cable which you can use to monitor engine stats, check for engine codes. This has been an extremely reliable car. There is some light but noticable wear on the top of the steering wheel. There is more noticable wear on the gear knob which has peeled a bit. Other than that, seats, original floor mats and the car in general is in fantastic condition. The car is 100% stock aside from the a JVC DVD/CD/MP3 player (also have the original Nissan CD player head unit) and nismo B pillar carbon fibre covers. I have the original japanese manual and some japanese paperwork. Only the first service is listed in the papers but there's a 45,000KM service sticker in the car so KM's definitely appear genuine. The car is located in Sunbury Victoria 3429 but I can arrange to bring it into the city for inspection / sale. Asking $17,200 ono

It should be an option (configurable). I have an M80 on my R34 so might be slightly different but for me it works as follows: Unlock via remote: Don't open any door, the car will re-lock itself. Unlock via remote: Open a door but don't start ignition, the car will re-arm the immobiliser but NOT re-lock the doors.

Lately when driving my R34 N/A coupe I've noticed that where my left leg rests the carpet feels warm - even when not using the heater / climate control. This is under the head unit and it gets hot on both sides (i.e. where the front passengers right leg rests too). It is isolated to under the head unit, but in front of where the transmission controls are. Could it be the transmission?

I bought mine from Nissan Australia, cost a few bucks.

Awesome price for an 04 black premium - how many KM's ?

still for sale.

Dropped price to $6,500.

1993 Nissan Silvia 2.0L Turbo - Great condition 109,500 KM's Automatic transmision. Clean interior, very responsive engine - very stock car. - Great daily driver avg 450-500km's per tank of petrol combined fwy / city driving. - Serviced Early Jan 2009. RWC provided with sale. - Club K's S13 Silvia with HICAS and the usual options e.g. climate control, electric windows and electric fold in mirrors. - Sony MP3 CD player, alarm, brand new rear tyres. Overall in pretty good condition, the only real problem is clear coat fade on the right front fender (see pic) and air con recently stopped being cold which might just be a fuse as it went from really cold to nothing in a day. Located in Avondale Heights 3034 but I drive to the cbd for work sometimes, can arrange for it to be looked at there. Asking for $6,800 but feel free to make an offer. 0421973613 - Michael.

Here's my 34 - decals and cd player are the only mods, otherwise 100% stock.

GT-V (which is N/A) has same suspension as GT-T, otherwise standard GT has the softer suspension (and also smaller rims, and probably other differences).

Oh..forgot about this thread. I'm not sure if R33 is the same, anybody know?

So I hadn't been down in a while thought I should go get the line washed and waxed. Turns out the place has been sold and now is a 'Magic' car wash. I can go into detail as to why I won't go back there but more importantly what's happened to the real Final Inspection, does anyone know whether they've moved or plan to open up at a new location? Rather disappointing...

I did actually see more R35's on the road in Singapore than in Tokyo on a recent trip.

Ahh somebody tell A & NZ banking that we're basically already getting those exchange rates (the USD has a bit more to lose to get there). per 1 AUD: 64.67 YEN and 0.66 USD (According to google exchange rate function)

I'm after a seat belt for my R34 coupe drivers side because mine is starting to fray. Must be in good condition. Cheers.

Thanks. Too bad this session is booked out, I had a day off too http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...da-t239026.html

Any information on what this involves ? Requirements and costs ?

I've been able to answer my own question (yes I should have tried before posting). But for any other noobs like myself, you don't take the whole door panel off for the elec window wire area. It pops up and to the right (for the drivers side door). I had a couple of loose wires which are now sorted, electric windows fully operational again

My R34 has just started having a FUN power window issue. The passenger side window (2DR) will not wind down from its own switch or from the drivers side. From the passenger side switch if I try to wind it up (while already all the way up) the window jiggles a bit, so up direction seems fine. I started removing the screws to open the door, but the screw in the little holder on the door seems to be cross threaded and won't come out no matter how much I unscrew it. I've read the service manual but there isn't a description on opening the door panel. Any tips where to go from here ?

Those that got their license between 1st July 2007 and 30th June 2008 will have green P's and are not bound by the 125kw/tonne rule but the newer 'no turbo unless it's a diesel etc' rules. Just an added way of making things so much easier to follow...

It took 2 days to get mine to Melbourne from Bris with Kiwi from the day it cleared customs. The depot wasn't near and would have been a pain for me to get to, so I just got my compliancer to organise it heh.