Mayuri Krab

Man the best I ever got from my auto turbo was ~7 seconds, I must be a really shit driver... <hangs face down in shame>

Core temp here as well. Don't really bother to check it now days, my main desktop is like several years old already so in other words it already a POS Hyundai Excel.

Got the game the Chinese communist way , going to try it out tonight.

Other difference I remember was that the SAFC 1 only has 8 points (on the rpm band) for tuning while the SAFC 2 has 12 points. There is also the AFC-neo (I think that what it is called, its pretty much a SAFC 3) that you can also look out for, it is the newest one in the product line & has a colour screen (& more tuning points again I think). As for which one to get, I would just get which ever one shows up for a good price, since they are all just a basic crude tuning device & the difference between each other won't be that noticeable IMO compared to say going to a full aftermarket ECU.

Have a look on the for sale section here, SAFCs pops up from time to time when the owner have done more mods & upgraded to a full aftermarket ECU, so they have no use for it anymore. I got mine for about $200ish off someone here 2 years ago.

Self regenerating armor & the ability to smash right into a soccer mum driving a urban tank 4x4 without me getting killed.

Hmm, taking public transport or driving around in a eco bull shit car? That's like asking would you rather eat the shit you took today or the shit you took yesterday...

You mean the little black fan in front? From my observation, it only turns on when the engine is over a certain temperature AND when the A/C is on. No idea on the other issues though, sorry.

1st, what mods do you have on the car so far? (exhaust?, intake?, inter-cooler?) If you are not going for massive power & keeping the stock turbo with a 10psi boost setting, and you are short on cash, you can just get a piggy back signal bender like a SAFC (for cheap) & tune that to get rid of the R&R problems. I've the usual bolt ons with a SAFC 2 & my car made 240rwhp last time on the dyno 1.5 years ago (was also only using R34 SMIC at the time, I have since added a proper FMIC) & I've no R&R problems when I floor it. My car is also an auto, so there would be more power loss from the transmission compared to a manual. You will probably get better results from a proper ECU (like the PFC & Nistune mentioned) but from my experience a SAFC is enough to tune out R&R problems on a lightly modified car.

So not buying a PS3 now...

Mine sits at ~82 during a normal day without A/C & will go up a couple of degrees when stuck in traffic. In a 38C+ day with A/C on, it will go over 90C when stuck in traffic but will drop back down to about 85 when moving at decent speed again. This is with a stock radiator, recently got the plastic top tank repaired & rad cap and thermostat replaced.

Hi Do you have that little yellow cap for the coolant reserver bottle & are you willing to separate it?

EDIT: forgot to check the dates...

I'm starting to wonder if some of the 0 - 100km/h times were done with 6k rpm launches...

Have you checked your rad cap yet? Mine was worn as sh*t when I noticed overheating problems (stock gauge went over 1/2 way with A/C on). But I agree with what Turael said with while you are going over the system you might as well change all the bits & pieces just to be safe considering that they are getting over 15 years old now.

Your not suppose to take what Mr Clarkson says seriously, as Richard Hammond once said in one of the newer episodes:

Fat yanks favorite hobby after big macs with cheese; suing people or suing stuff.

About freaken time!

1st easy check is the Radiator cap, just take it off & look, if the rubber appears to be cracked/worn then get a new one (0.8 bar, there is still a debate here on whether a higher pressure cap is better, I personal just stick with the stock pressure one) & see how that goes. If you are good with working on cars, the next step would be checking out the thermostat & see if it opens & closes properly. The stock Nissan one opens at ~76C if I remember right. Cleaning the radiator I would recommend a proper Radiator place to do, since its is a bit different from just plain flushing the radiator. It pays to do a bit of DIY/check yourself so you can save some $$$. If your coolant is very dilute (you mentioned), I would do a flush & refill & bleed the system just to avoid rusting in the system. Not really to do with the fact that it is a turbo car, but more with the fact that these cars are getting past 15 years (mine is 17...) & bits & pieces are starting to worn out & show their age. EDIT: BTW is the overheating/high temperature happening all the time or only when stuck in traffic or moving slowly? If it is the latter, it would indicate the clutch fan is not working as well as it should.

Could be that your water is boiling away (if there is low level of coolant mix present in the water & hence it will have lower boiling point), resulting in radiator going low on coolant & hence overheating happening. also check the other basics -is the rad cap worn? -is thermostat worn & not functioning properly? -Radiator partially blocked? (get a rad place to clean it) When I had a partial overheating problem (stock gauge is being as useless as ever), the first 2 things on that list fixed the problem.

Does the motor move even if I have the entire system off? Since mine still makes that 'gulp' sound shortly after I start the car even if I have the entire air vent system off.

Will try the wd40 tomorrow, can't believe I didn't think about that! I was even using that stuff to on Saturday cleaning off some rust in the back boot. Finally with the min & max line on the bottle, is the max for when the coolant is cold or when it is hot (engine at operating temperature?) on the old threads there seem to be a conflict of answers...

LOL what? On the subject of "I screwed up & lost something..." Has anyone seen my yellow cap for the reserve coolant bottle? I must have forgotten to tighten it up after topping it up & now it must having fallen somewhere on the road while driving!

RON = Research Octone Number Also which outlet is that? That sells the "98" with 10% ethanol? I thought in Jap land their Premium is RON 98 & regular is 95... In anycase if the car has being tuned for power then 98 (or higher RON fuel) is the only way to go.

Also every time I start the car up & drive it for the 1st time or so I can hear a "Glup" noise behind the dash (comming from the front of the car), could that be the air stuck in the cooling system? Since I can't seem to undo the bleeder bolt, I followed what someone else suggested on an old thread & parked the car on my steep car park with the front end on the high ground & let it idle with the radiator cap off till the engine was up to operating temperature (aftermarket gauge showed it was at the mid 80 degs) but no bubbles ever came out. While I was doing this, the coolant keeps on raising above the neck of the radiator & flowing out & splatting onto the clutch fan (which ended up on my face... ). Is this normal?