winstonusmc

This is what an Eddi Bauer seat looks like in my R34 Coupe, should be the same as the R34 GTR

Funny thing is when I had the other cam covers on, guys would ask me how hard it was to twin turbo and ITB the RB25. I told them that it was easier than putting 25 cam covers on a 26.

R32 Nismo Turbos (14411-06U00)

I hope to make more as I am not running the stock turbos. The clutch I am looking it is the Nismo GMaxII. I know someone that installed one on their R34 GTR and they said it feels and drives like a stock clutch. I am sold on that idea.

Not really running the power yet. It is only at .65bar now. I did feel the clutch slip with this boost level, so no turning up the boost will have to wait till I upgrade the clutch. My goals are really not at the wheels though. I am really shooting for 50% more power, not necesarily a power number. I am going for feel and tuning to see what I can get. Later when the clutch is good, I am going to play around with the timing map up top to see what numbers are there. I just need access to some knock monitoring equipment. End state will be 1 bar with tune. Then I will see how much the MAFs are flowing and see how close to maxed out.

I aquired a front swaybar yesterday from an R32 GTR and ordered a rear GTR bar from Upgarage. I did some research and figured I am losing some handling ability because I am running the GTS25T bar in the back. I figure that the swaybar setup of the 2wd would need to be way different than the AWD setup. The current bars are 22mm up front and 18mm in the rear. The GTR setup is a 24mm bar upfront and 25mm in the rear. I guess the AWD needs a stiffer rear to combat the understeer. The thing is I think I need to drop the subframe a little to change the front one.

I have the HKS actuators. You loosen the jam nut and turn the shaft on the vacuum side. The HKS units are about .125bar per complete rotation. I am not sure if this is linear, it may raise more per ratation higher up.

You set the pressure with the vacuum line removed to 3 bar or 43psi. When you reattach the vacuum line, it should dip down so that its 3 bar minus manifold vacuum. Mine sits around 2.65bar at 500mmHG with an aeromotive FPR and an RB26 @ 950rpm idle.

An update on this topic. I always hate an unanswered problem when it falls by the wayside. The problem is all but gone now. I have cut almost 6 degrees out of the first 3000rpm of the timing map. I get a ping every once in a while, but its about 99% gone. Now the base timing is 15 degrees. This was adjusted in the map, not by turning the CAS. Now it spools a little better too, extra bonus. I think in the mid range, spool can be had at the sacrifice of power by retarding the timing. The trick is to find the proper medium in between spool and power. I am posting up the map to show how much timing I had to remove. Geen is stock RB26, red is my map.

I remember those days. It was the same way with me, I was just going to but the Manual transmission in and ran into a problem with the pilot bushing. Said screw it and decided to pull the engine instead.

Yesterday I drop a timing map that I thought might take care of some of the Low Gear High Load pinging that I have been experiencing. I knew that it has been caused by the higher compression so I know that base timing would be less as higher comp. motors usually have less base timing. After looking at other timing maps, like the RB25, I decided to trim 5 degrees of the entire lower section of the ignition maps. So far it has made a vast improvement to intitial take off and low load to medium load transitions. I think I may some less timing in the 2000rpm areas though, they were only trimmed about 3 degrees. So now when the car is timed, it will be to 15 degrees with a timing light, not the stock 20. All this and I didnt have to touch the cam angle sensor. This picture shows both timing Maps, Green is stock RB26 and red is my concoction. After I am done, there should be a little more red in the High Load High RPM area. The red there now is the HKS bootleg tune I got from an HKS tuned ECU that I got a while ago.

Turned up the boost a little today. I had to remove the rear turbo inlet tube to get to both of the wastegate arms. I turned them two full turns from where they were. When I first installed the HKS actuators, they were about .5 bar, now they go to about .65-.70. I didnt log it and I was just out driving and not paying too much attention. In a couple days I will turn the arms another two turns to see if it goes another .2 bar. It is going to take some motivation to turn up the boost more considering all I have to remove to adjust the arms. it Takes about an hour to do it too. Maybe it will take less because today I had to run upstares because I kept forgetting tools. I can feel it gets too rich up top or not enough timing. I got a map ready to use that has a more linear fuel curve and some expanded timing maps for the more boost I may drop in later. I really need someway to log knock, may look into the Radio Shack method.

As far as the R33s are concerned, they should be the same. The R33 model is all controlled by the part thottle vacuum from the throttle body. It should have three vacuum lines; the larger is the vent from the fuel tank, the midsize is the vacuum supply from the manifold, and the small is the partial throttle signal from the throttle body. As long as those vacuum lines are there and correctly attached, that canister should be good to go. I have the R34, which was controlled by the ECU via a solenoid. I use the R33 vacuum canister because it is more compatible with the GTR system I am running.

That looks like the 95 model. It has the Series 1.5 stuff, like the bumper. I had a 95 without airbags though. I think it was an option as I have seen the series 1 R33s with dual airbags. The dash trim is definately series 1 though as its not raised around the clock.

Not really sure what that flange is, but its not an RB20/25 or even an RB26. This is an RB20/25: Kinda layed out like this / / / / \ \ RB26 is / / \ / / \ Quick google search revealed its RB30 Check this RB30ET Gasket:

The TTP max is for the max pulse width that the computer will allow at any given RPM. This prevents overfueling at any given RPM. The AF_LIMIT in Rom Editor is the "boost cut" for a lot of the Nissan ECUs. It is the TP the ECU will shut down fuel, like a boost cut, but based on load. A lot of Chipped ECUs just max this value out to prevent any cut from happening and my RB26 ECU doesnt even have it. Chances are if you are hitting the fuel cut on a stock setup, it is time to up your MAF because the TP limit is usually set at where the MAF is getting to its limit. BTW, this is a hella old thread.

It looks like pin 3 is the power in. It doesnt matter what injector goes to what though, just as long as power in is pin three. The diagram is as you were looking into the back of the harness side not the resistor side.

Trying to decide what to do about suspension setups. Right now I am running Billsteins and Nismo springs designed for the R33 GTR, but that was just to get me by. Next thing will be R34 GTR coilovers of some sort, but I dont know what. Obviously will be used from Upgarage but I dont know what. And then I am think about poly bushings, but I dont know where to get AWD stuff for the fron. I am also wanting to get wider wheels for the front as my wheels are staggered (yuck for AWD). After all this I need a way to adjust camber. I just need a setup for what little touge we have on our tiny island. I am thinking Tein flex with 275 rubber all around. What camber settings?

The funny thing is with the correct injector MAF combination, the fuel could correct itself enough to actually drive a little bit. Now the timing throughout the MAP will be totally wrong, the fuel AFRs shouldnt be too off to not run at all. Now being that the RB20 MAFs are about 150% flow capacity of the stock RB26 MAFs, then the 800CC injectors are 56% which is close enough to 66% to get the fueling close enough to run. Now remember that the timing curve will be way off. I remember back in the day before PowerFCs and ROM tuning was readily available, guys used to drop a Z32 MAF and 720cc injectors in an SR with the stock ECU and actually drive it around like that because the two would sort of compinsate for each other. But the thing still ran like ass because the timing curve was off. All this aside, avoid driving this beast before you get that PowerFC unlocked.

The computer can be rescaled via changing the ROM chip on them. The ECU can be "chipped" by someone or even you if you want. I am running twin RB25 NEO E60 MAFs on my RB26 right now with a chipped R32 GTR ECU. The reason why it seams that it is working now is that at low load, the engine is in closed loop fueling. The AFR is being calculated off of the O2 sensor, not the MAF. Of course once you try to take the RPM above 3000rpm, it will go very lean and could cause damage.

Check your timing. I had a couple degrees off and it affected my spool on my Nismo turbos by about 800rpm. Never hurts to check since its quick.

The easiest way to tell is the redline. The RB26 of the GTR is 8000rpm.

I always thought it would look cool if the center of the spoiler was left on and the sides were removed.

I dont think there are "RB20" AWD gearboxes. They just stuck GTR transmissions in them. From the looks of the R32 GTS4 and the GTR, the main difference between the two driveline wise was the engine. This and the brakes and fenders was the only really big performance differences. Maybe some chassis stiffening too. Now the R33/34 AWD models are little more different. They both came with the non-turbo rear subframe assembly, meaning no HICAS and 3x2 bolt axles. The R33 had four lug hubs (main reason I chose the R34) and both had the crappy GTS25 brakes. From the looks of my R34 setup up front, it looks more like the R33 GTR subframe as it uses the older steering rack.

Some updates: I have been working on my airbox for the past week. I was going to run the Apexi Super Suction for the larger MAFs, but I really dont want to spend the money. I bought myself an early Christmas present, a Dremel rotory tool. It was really so I could cut up my airbox to fit the larger MAFs to it. I cut the flange off of the old airbox from the Neo motor and sort of glued it to the GTR box with a little if cutting and sanding. I think it will work out OK and should not really be visible when installed. The bottom MAF will only need the hole widened. I had a slight boost leak that I remedied after tuning for the MAFs, so I will have to rescale again now the boost leak is gone. Next, I am going to look for a clutch. I want the Nismo twin that has the red cover made by Exedy, I have been told it has a stock pedal feel.