winstonusmc

I see in your mods list that you say those are R34 GTR headlights, noticed they were non-HID units. I have read you guys have to deal with the removing of HID for compliance reasons. Is this the case for your car. I never really noticed the difference in between GTR lights and mine, other than the GTR guys keep theirs cleaner.

The wires for the resistor pack go completely around the engine bay. The resistor pack on the GTR is on the driver side strut tower. The wires go into the chassis harness that takes the wires underneath the radiator support to the passenger side and connects to the plugs that sits on the passenger side strut tower. Then the wires continue back to the firewall and go over to the injector side of the engine. One complete loop. I guess Nissan wanted more resistance in the line, so they added about 3 meters of wire.

The resistor pack plug is not on the engine harness. The injector wires leave the engine harness through the plug near the factory airbox. They need to be removed from that plug. I just put the resistor pack under my airbox.

When you are using a Dyno to tune a car, you need to know at what RPM your changes need to be. Example is if there is a flat spot or a drop in power, you know at what RPM to correct it on in the map.

perform a boost leak check on this. As nothing changed except the turbo, this should not affect idle AFR at all. On the Power FC, do you have O2 control disabled? If not, it still could be a leak. Just pop a plug on the inlet of the turbo and pressurize the piping and check for leaks, could be a leaky compressor housing or some boost piping. To put this in perspective, I was tuning my MAFs this past weekend. After installing the new stretched out rubber piping for the 80mm MAFs I left the vent pipe off the valve cover by accident. At no load and 2000rpms, I was running 14.2 AFR. At idle I was running 18 AFR. Put the hose back on and the AFR steadied back to 14.5 AFR, which is what I was shooting for. End of story, so check for leaks.

I have the CV driveshaft on my GTFour. It seems the AWD Skylines use them to minimize drivetrain vibration.

Its a normal ATESSA ETS system that the GTR runs. I just dont have a torque meter. I think it is the same as the R34 GTR system, without the active rear diff. Unless you referring to the 10% forward bias that the R33/34 GTR has, then yes that is the same.

It uses the R32 transmission. I wish I could get the R33 GTR mission as it is pull type clutch, same as R34 GtFour. It has the R32 GTR Engine as well. Although I did keep the rest of the GTFour drivetrain though, including the stock 4.3 final gear using the old RB25 oilpan as they were the same minus the gears inside the diff. The rear uprights have been changed to facilitate the GTR struts, as they use the fork style lower mount. Luke, as for your questions here goes. The Rb26 is drop in. I used all the accessories from the RB25 including alternator, starter, power steering pump, A/C compressor, main pully, and all belts from the RB25. A custom A/C line had to be made to clear the front turbo inlet. As far as the mounts, used the factory R34 mounts. In my experience with RB motors, there are R33/R34 2wd mounts and R32 2wd mounts, but the AWD mounts seem to all be the same. I just used my R34 mounts as the rubber in them should be better than the R32 were. The wiring took me a while as the R32 plug design is different from the R34. I basically separated the Engine specific wiring from the RB26 harness and grafted it to the R34 harness. This allowed me to retain all ABS/ATESSA wiring. Also, I used the R34 RB25 lower harness to retain the speedometer and alternator wiring. On this note, I have a couple friends that their speedos still dont work on their R34s, but the GTFour uses a different design to allow for an easier swap. The wiring is the hardest thing in the swap, but I am not sure how the R34 GTR harness is going to swap in. Of course some mapping with a multimeter would help out. This isnt too difficult for me though as the US Marine Corp has taught me all of my wiring skills. I have done a few harnesses here in Okinawa for guys doing swaps, like an RB25 into an S14. Update: Installed my E60 MAFs yesterday. The scaling wasnt as high as I though it would be. Just some info on the fuel scaling for my current setup: SARD 700cc (light blue) injectors 64% scaling at .96ms latency E60 MAFs (RB Neo) 128% scaling Kinda suprised me about the MAFs because all the sites on the net were talking about the RB MAFs being 150% larger, but these are the numbers I calculated after a couple runs with my wideband. They should give me the metering to push up the power to a tad over 500hp, but I am only looking for 450hp or so. I really dont want to modify my airbox to run the 80mm MAFs so I am trying to source a used Apexi Super Suction kit for the 80mm MAFs, dont want to buy it new. Right now the MAFs are just hanging off the rubber piping with no filters, terrible!

On the note of the MAF, I have heard that the MAF has to be rescaled in the ECU to work correctly. I guess it has to do with the denser air affecting the sensor differently. Should perform a retune afterwards anyway. A lot of guys runnig DSMs in the US do this running the GM MAF in a blowthrough config. They also bitch about having to retune it from winter and summer because the blowthough design doesnt agree too well with temp changes. Another note about the BOV. I think the Cefies that didnt have the bypass valve might have been Auto transmissions. Besides, I dont think Nissan ever intended the Cefiro to be much more than a sporty commute car anyway.

Also the Neo R34 uses a continuosly variable cam phasing, the R33 uses on or off cam phasing. Even if you painstakingly swapped connectors, it wouldnt run the engine correctly. The Neo head is also more advanced so the timing curve wouldnt work from the R33. Check this out, top is 33 bottom is 34.

Yes Sir!! USMC like the name.

I bought my car from Sapporo for about $4000us. With all of the mods, its about $8000us total. On Goo-net, the cheapest R34 GTR was aound $30,000us for one that had been wrecked. I know the R32 GTR can be had for cheaper, but I wanted an R34 because they are still kinda rare. I was pretty lucky finding a wrecked R32 GTR to get all of the parts from.

This is a photo string of the evolution of the engine bay. Starting with stock (generic pic, not my bay), then the various steps including when I put the RB25 valve covers on for painting of the RB26 covers. I am trying to make it look like the car is factory stock. I even went as far as putting the R33 battery tray and windshield washer resivior, which is mostly bolt in. I just installed SARD injectors in it last week. This paired with the Nismo turbos and the RB Neo MAFS should yield and easy 450hp at about 1bar of boost. There are no function dynos here in Okinawa, let alone an AWD dyno, so it will have to be the trusty ass dyno. A couple of you all may wonder why I am on the Auissie Skyline board. There isnt much english Skyline support here in this county.

Mods: R32 GTR RB26DETT engine swap R32 GTR 5-speed transmission R32 GTR Intercooler w/ t-bolt clamps Nismo Turbos (R32 GTR) SARD 700cc Injectors Aeromotive FPR Chipped ECU with an HKS bootleg tune Zietronix wideband w/ boost sensor Nismo GTR fuel pump 270LPH w/ GTR pump control box Work Emotion CR Kai 18x8.5, 18x9.5 Wheels R33 Trunk mount battery mystery brand short shifter Razo 350g shift knob R33 GTS25T calipers w/ Dixcel front slotted rotors and EBC RedStuff pads R32 GTR Spare tire (yeah they are different) Z32 Brake Master Cylinder (1 1/16inch) Nismo Lowering springs (R33 GTR) R33 GTR front underbrace Bilstein Struts (R33 GTR w/ Z32 rear uprights) R34 GTR airbox w/ K&N Panel Filter Shaved head (0.4mm) Koyo Copper 2-core radiator Future: E60 RB25 Series II MAFs OS Giken Twin plate clutch HKS high boost actuators (.9bar min) I am currently working on tuning this thing via ROM. My goals are to have a very stock looking car with 450hp. Some background: I bought this car from Mainland Japan and had it shipped down to Okinawa. It was very stock except for a foldout TV that got removed the day I recieved the car. The drivetrain was sourced from a rusted and wrecked R32 GTR. All of the swap was done by me, including the wiring. It really helps that the Junkyards here are full of R33 stuff that bolts onto the R34 easily.

I have the R32 Nismo trbos, and this curve looks about like my 2nd gear pull. I have seen .6 bar as low as 3800rpm in 4th gear and 5th gear. Turn up the boost and get them in their effienency range, around one bar. Be careful though, stock injectors cant support 1bar from these turbos, neither the stock MAFs as well.

Yes, Chris is correct in saying that I am running Rom tuned R32 GTR ECU. The fuel that I use is the equivelant to US grade 93 Octane. I am not sure if they use a winter grade here in Okinawa, but it has been pinging for a while, maybe August. I am going to borrow a Map tracer from Casey sometime to use for other tuning purposes. I will just log the area of the map at that time that pings. Funny thing about the knock map is it looks the same as the normal map. Datascan should also tell me if it goes into the knock map anyway. I am going to just pull a bit of timing off the bottom of both Maps and see what it does.

The thing that I really worry about is the normal take off like from a stop sign. I always drop it down a gear to keep it above 2500rpms going up a hill, but my wife likes to drive it like a V8, 1200rpms chugging up a long hill. She gets mad at me when I correct her. If I drop back timing it will be in the ignition map, not on the CAS.

Anyone expriencing this? My head is shaved about .4mm and it has about 190psi in all cylinders, so I am guessing 9.5/1 compression ratio. Does good on the upper RPM range, but at initial take off or going up a hill at low RPMs, it pings a little when hot. Other background is thie injectors were just changed, happened before. Also, I have a wideband O2 sensor and it stays pretty steady at 14.7 during the pinging. It has been timed a few time since I noticed this. I am thinking two things, bad TPS or too much timing at low RPMs. I have tried to remove timing from the ignition map at low RPM but I am tuning blind as I dont have access to a map tracer. The stock advance is around 45 degrees at low load. Should be less with higher compression. I use 93 octane fuel BTW.

That line is pretty hard to get off. What I did is clamp down on the bracket that the line goes into with a pair of vice grip pliers and used a line wrench on the line itself. My R32 engine had some stuck lines too.

[email protected] I did find the VQ in nistune though I would still like an ADR file though.

got the bin thanks, but now need the adr file. I tried using the adr that nistune has, but it seems its just for the nistune software. I also tried using r33 rb25 adr and bcnr32 adr but neither work. I am trying some other means, but I still need the ER34 address file. Thanks

I am dropping a pair of Series 2 / Neo MAF sensors on my RB26 and I need the Bin and ADR from the NEO so I can snatch the VQ for the MAF off of it. I dont really have access to an ECU that is plugged into a car, I have the old R34 ECU from my car in the closet but the car is now wired up for the the RB26. So, I have seen there are a few guys on this forum that have these, but they didnt post them for download. Help me out please.

I am need of a Bin file for a Z32 ECU so I can install it in my ECR33 Skyline. Its a 95 series 1.5 I think. It is so hard to tell if things here in Japan came stock because there is so many junkyards full of random stuff. I would appreciate some help in this matter. Known of the tuning shops have any clue what to do because they always use powerFC's and stuff. My Z32 ECU is already chipped and I have an Eprom writer. I just need a good base map to start working with because I am looking at upgrading stuff soon.