niran

hey everyone just have a quick question..a few days ago while i was driving i realised my indicator lights when i flick them on they seem to stay on and don’t acutally indicate on and off. I’ve read a few posts on here and done a search most people seem to have a problem with the indicator light staying on when they turn the head light on. In my case the headlights don’t affect it so it’s not a ground/shorting out problem. I listened and failed to hear that clicking noise come from under my dash.. So i pulled my relay out, before i go buy one would anyone be able to confirm with me that it is the relay that has died? Also where would be the best place to buy/find one? i was thinking Nissan themselves? Thanks, Ni

hey man i have an r32 gts-t that had an rb20 in it and ended up putting an rb25 in... Got the engineering certs done also. It took about 4 months for everything to get done, more the fact it was just waiting for the forms as there’s a bit off sending and receiving from the tech section to you, from you to the engineer and so on. when you do the conversion make sure to keep the rb26 as stock as possible, example stock exhaust.. that way there is less testing done. good luck with it man

hey bud, nah not after kw? was talking about hp.. yer i know, wanting to go a Powerfc asap

Hey everyone This is just a bit off a random question but wanted to clarify it.I have a r32 with an rb25det engine and box conversion done to it, it’s a standard rb25 s2 that went in, uses all standard parts including ecu and turbo..However it does have some light mods on the car. Mods i have: - Straight through exhaust -Pod Filter - FMIC -R32 Gtr fuel pump (has been re wired to get constant 13.8-14v) Until I save up for bigger turbo, injectors and a standalone ecu I thought I might as well use my Apexi ACVR, SAFCII to get a tune done so that I could have a bit more power out off it. I got a tune done and got 250 rwhp @ 10 psi.. I asked that what was the restriction in the car was and they said the ecu wouldn’t allow for more boost as it would start spiking and also cause the fuel to run rich, then run lean, then rich and so on.. Also they stated that my power curve wouldn’t be smooth and would have no power until higher rpm. Is this a common problem with the S2 motor/ecu? Is it due to the vct ? Another reason why i am asking this is as my friends farther made 298 @ 13 psi with everything the same as mine except spit fire coil packs (he owns a r33 s1) Thanks any help appreciated Niran

hey man, yep gave him another ring tonight.. he said it will be done by tonight, i told him i will come and pick it up instead off him posting it so it gets done quicker. haha i have been, ringing him so much nonstop Yer thats why i also went Don because a few people from here have said he does a good job, i rang him anyways he said it should be done tonight so ill try get it to the tech section by Friday so i can hopefully have yellow off asap. hey buddy um nah i haven’t received any letters yet as i have kept going 1-2 days before my yellow expires and kept getting it renewed, hopefully i will receive the engineering certs soon so i can get this yellow off

Hey every one I originally had a yellow about 4 months ago and i couldn’t get it off as my engine had oil leaks and reverse wouldn’t engage sometimes.. at the time i was in the process of buying a r33 half cut, so i thought i might as well do the conversion and go over. After finishing the car off i went to pits and they straight away said they can’t approve this and i need engineering certs. Thinking its better to do the right thing now, i put through the forms to be approved. It took about 3 weeks so then again i needed to extend my yellow (3rd time now). Afterwards i then had to find a approved engineer, as all of you who have been through this knows you get a piece off paper with the names and numbers, i chose Don Stevens.. I came to hes the day that suited him and got the whole car checked out he said everything looks fine and there isn’t any problems and said he will processes that. That was approx. 1 and a half months ago and i still have not received any letters/certs. When i rang the engineer throughout the first few weeks after looking at my car he stated that he was busy and he still hadn’t looked at processing the papers for my car. Today i had to go to pits again this time the pits complained to me that i should hand in my plates and not drive it. I said back “that’s unfair, this is not my fault and it’s my daily car”.. so in the end the pit guys had a talk about it and said they will extend it for 10 days.. Guys i need your help, is there any way i can get this yellow off or what should i do? Im starting to get sick off this, especially when I followed the rules and did the right thing yet it seems like they don’t care much. If anyone has had any experience and got something sorted to remove the yellow please let me know. Thanks guys, Niran

hey man you have a pm

wow! i am also interested, how much for your mate to make me one also. cheers, niran

hey buddy thanks for that, i did what you said at the start, just made my own shroud looks good.. went to the engineering place they didn't say anything about it being a problem. thanks, niran

thanks man . its great now that vct is working. cheers for the help

hey guys i finally got the vct working.. ended up buying a bulb, soldering it to two wires, then the other side off wires put some small spade clips and plugged it into the vct socket. Took the bulb through the firewall and left it on top off my dash, took it for a drive and the bulb didn't turn on. so i changed one off the bulbs wires to 12v+ and left the other side off the wire connected to the lime green wire which connects to pin 113 on the ecu. Took it for a drive and yahoo!! bulb turns on from 1500-4800rpm then turns off. Ended up getting an ignition source and cutting off the old power wire to VCT and then soldered the new power wire.. took it for a drive and runs awesome! thanks for all your help guys. Niran

hey man i am also using rb20 mounts for everything, mine fits fine.. for the gearbox i used the rb20 mounts also however ive heard there are 3 types (A,B,C) im using the type b ones and they fit exaclty.

hey man the ecu i am using is a manual r33 s2 well thats what it says on it. i attached a photo also [ hey dude, alright i took it for a drive first with it plugged in, then i removed the connector and drove it. to me i feel no difference in acceleration so this means my vct is not opperating ? thanks, niran

hey every i have my engineering appointment soon and im a bit worried as my clutch fan does not have a shroud around it as i have an aftermarket radiator. However i do have two electric thermo fans that i brought new a while back and been meaning to install. I've seen people use mounting shrouds if that's what you would call them so that the thermo fans have an gap between the radiator itself. here is a picture so it explains it better.. does any one know where i can buy something like this locally. thanks guys, niran

hey everyone i know there is a few threads on vct not working, i have read through them all and tried the solutions however i need some more help. the car i have is a r32 gts-t with an rb25det conversion. I had it done by a mechanic and after i brought it home i thought i would just do some searching as my car felt a bit sluggish down low. going from a 2 litre to a 2.5 litre i thought there would be more response. so i searched through the forums and got the the vct issue, my first question is, is the vct meant to be always on between 1500rpm-5000rpm hence there's power at the solenoid terminals? or is it the other way around the reason im asking this is because im getting mixed answers and i cant solve the problem without knowing exactly which way its meant to be on/off. the next problem is ive never owned a r33 s2 so i dont know what vct is meant to exactly feel like or even what a r33 should drive like (engine wise). basically what happens at the moment with my car is.. say i am in second gear at 2000rpm cruising speed if i put my foot down all the way, it slowly starts moving up in the revs when i hit about 5000rpm my engine note changes and i get a sudden pull and then the car builds up speed reasonably quickly. does this mean my vct is not working? as my low end is sluggish. also i checked using a multimeter, i think ive done this right however if i haven't please let me know. i removed the connector off the solenoid and got a mutli meter, set it to dc voltage and connected the positive to one off the pins on the connector and the negative to the other pin on the connector. i then got some one to sit in my car and rev between 1500rpm-5000rpm but yet i got no voltage being displayed on my multimeter. next i thought maybe the wires weren't going all the way to the ecu and there could be a broken wire so then i pulled out the ecu found pin #113 then connected one side off the multimeter to that pin and the other side to the light green wire on the solenoid side off the connector and it beeped hence there was continuity. next i checked the other wire and found that it beeped when i touched pin # 49 (control unit power supply). so finally what does this mean as i am lost for ideas? any help appreciated thanks guys, niran

i reckon the best thing to do is test drive both cars and see what fits you more.. i was in the same head space as you when i was buying a 180sx or a r32 gts-t, after all the comparing and driving i myself found the r32 to suit me more and the feel i had for it was better.. that being said the rb20 is a low torque engine however it can take a thrashing all day long and it will still keep going, also the fact that it has solid lifters compared to the sr20 mean’s it can handle a bit off limiter, however if you buy a s14 with an sr20 you can buy rocker arm stoppers.. Both engines/cars have its up's and downs man, if you buy a r32 you can install a rb25 into it later down the track like i did... but yer as i said at the start i reckon you should take both off them for a drive and see which one you like more.

hey man sorry should have said all that.. it was an r32 gts-t manual originally and we put a rb25det s2 engine and manual gearbox in(using s2 loom also). yep its the vct plug i removed. i also double checked as one off the wires when i looked at the colours and matched it up to the ecu pin out it said Variable timing control solenoid (pin #113). The other wire on that socket is a blue/white, when i looked in reference to that on the ecu pin out it says Control unit power supply (pin #49).. i also did what you said i revved it to about 5000rpm and no noises from the solenoid itself. When i checked the blue/white wire for power, i did this by attaching the positive end off the multimeter to the blue/white wire and the negative end off the mutli meter to a ground however i get no voltage.. but if i connected the negative terminal to the blue/white wire and then connect the positive side off the mutli meter to the car's positive terminal on the battery it reads 12.8 volts. Cheers, niran

hey guys i know this is an old thread but i need some help.. alright i got an engine conversion done a while back so im just going through everything in my car to make sure everything is and has been done right.. above in this topic it stated to check vct " get a 12v test light and connect it across the two terminals that plug onto the solenoid (disconnect the plug first of course) start car, rev it and off idle it should light up to indicate that the ecu is actually supplying a switching signal/power to the solenoid wiring plug."i used a multimeter instead and when i do this im not getting any voltage reading? what could be the issue? is the solenoid meant to be on at low rpm(therefore giving a 12v reading), and then solenoid is meant to turn off at higher rpm(no 12v reading)?? any help appreciated

oh ? ok so if im getting around +5 what does that come to? does that mean its running 7-8psi ?? hey man, nah its not because then if i ran it straight it wouldnt change anything. yep i tried both ways just to make sure swapped the pipes over no difference

hey every i have got an rb25 conversion done into my r32 gts-t, as most off you who own a r33 with a rb25 would know that there is a nipple on the pipe that comes off the BOV, when i read through some topics i saw that when using the stock solenoid you have a top and bottom inlet/outlet.. the top goes into the actuator side off the turbo and the bottom has a split where one goes to a vac line and the other goes to that nipple.. is this right ? however when i try this method my turbo does not go to 5psi (under 4500rpm) and then gradually goes to 7-8psi (above 4500rpm) instead it straight away goes to 1 bar plus(connected an aftermarket boost gauge to make sure as stock one reads only up to 7psi), straight away i backed off the throttle and drove it back home. so at the moment i have taken another boost source and just run in with a T piece straight to the actuator off the turbo when this is done it runs at 5 psi, which is fine.. does this mean that the nipple that is on the pipe that's from bov has been blocked off? also something that i quiet cant understand is, if i remove the vac line that is connected to the T peice the car should drop idles or try stall is this correct? however its not, i can hear and feel the air coming through that vac line and i can also even rev the car without affecting idle or engine revs. does any one know what could be the issue? thanks, Ni

hey every Alright basically ive got a r32 gts-t that had a rb20 in it however a conversion was done to an rb25 engine and gearbox, now the problems is changing the knock sensors, i have made the wirring for it with the connectors on the end however there is one knock sensor (came with engine) still in the engine itself (the one towards the front).. does any one know whats the best way to get it out.. there isnt much room to work with i am able to get to it with one hand but even if i try press both ends, wiggle it, pull it at the same time it just dosnt move. if any one has one knows off a method they used that works then please let me know, also am i ment to use any special type off tool to remove it ? thanks guys, Niran

hey man they would have however i told them that i will be having a stock exhaust with a standard catalytic converter installed. Oh really? what do you have to go through? or as in your in the shit's because off the emission test?

hey bud. yep your right i went and handed in the form to the Tech. side and the guy said the gtr rims wont be a concern as it was a "factory item" for the r32 GTR. Cheers, Niran

hey man Thanks for that, i know where your comming from, ill try get my hands on some if not i'll use thease rims and see how it goes

Hey man they didnt ask me to do an emissions test because i told them that i will be having a stock r32 exhaust with a Catalytic converter so should be fine Awesome thanks for that man yep they are defiantly in the guards reason i put them down was because they are the least widest rims i got, the other ones are 17 by 9 and 17 by 10.. Really? i dont have any stock r32 gts-t rims i have always had r32 GTR rims and was thinking well if im going to get engine approved might as well put the rims on there? or shouldn't i?