NewKleer

13s on the highway sounds reasonably definite a o2 sensor problem, unless ur car is running really shit (if it seems fine then its probably the o2 sensor), in which case it could be anything to do with air/fuel my car has been getting 15-17s around town, but got 9.5 on a trip to wollongong and back.

thats what happened the first time i was pulled over for no reason (other time there was a reason) - think its just to check anything outstanding, then he came back with rbt (didnt check the car) and after i blew 0.00 (presumably) i was on my way

had it been a p-plater commodore i think the response would have been similar. theyre beating the p-platers gong, not import drivers so much imo.

the model of the honda would be less important as it wasnt the one to crash - if it had been u probably would have had more info.

also ur o2 sensor may be dead

replace ur 25HP NOS shot with a 50HP Turbo Air shot today! unlucky that the highest bidder has -1 rep and probably wont pay

after more reading, the earlier versions of the interface dont work due to too low a resistor value (r1) which is now gone to 6.8k from 4.7k in the latest schematic from plms

thanks - will make me sleep a bit easier at least, but thats no consolation for you. unfortunately with a imperfect head (lifter noise), i couldnt bear anything happening to the bottom end (esp due to it being in a silvia, i cant do an rb30 conv without considerable trouble), so i hope its nothing to do with that. i read elsewhere that the VVT/VCT on the s14's over makes a weird rattling type noise, any chance it could be a similar thing on the rb25?

any idea if the components/layout match the schematic (http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/images_if/...ult_if_rev3.pdf) or if theyve changed at all? particularly whether the voltage reg, 78L05 (rated for 100ma) holds its cool or not (theres 7805 rated at 1A which is an alternative) was asking moreso about those who made it themselves (as theyd know the answers to most of the questions by others making them themselves...) for things like what pcb they used

the r34 might be using the later consult 2 protocol, so may be incompatible ive ordered the parts to try this myself. have any of the guys who said they are giving it a go themselves, got one working? what did u do for the pcb? (is there like a prototype pcb like disck smith have that u can get it on easily (without need for custom pcb)?

in azureus there is an option to supply ur real ip in the config->server section. check ur client for a similar option, and then supply it ur real ip, and see if that helps.

yeah i am. it wouldnt be a problem with the tracker, that nat thing on the tracker is just disabling a nat test it could do (so it doesnt let people with nats connect), nothing more

for green u need someone else to connect to you, which may take a while from when u first jump on. anyway if ur a seed, then other users with a NAT, if they want the files, will fix their end, so that u can connect to them. only if two users are yellow lighting that they wont be able to connect to each other. check ur options of ur bt client, and make sure its actually using the ports u have opened. i use azureus

just took car for a drive then, and yes i cant hear the noise once car has been running for about 5-10 mins. does the noise go away for you when the car is warm plynx?

do you also have loud lifters? (ive got like 1 exhaust and 2 intake making noise) maybe resonance attributed to them? (although it sounded like it was coming generally from top middle of motor, rather than towards the sides a bit more with the lifters.) if u dont have noisy lifters at all then perhaps something else. has ur car overheated before?

attachment working for me now. ive got most of the manuals (only missing r32 and s14) so ill jump on and help out btw a lot of you dont have ur ports open. if ur using the default settings, u need to open port 6881 on ur router/firewall and forward it to ur ip. otherwise u cant connect to any other users with ports closed. if everyone had ports closed u wouldnt be able to connect to anyone at all.

u mean the lifter noise? i have lifter noise when cold (and still noticable when warm) but its different, and lifter noise is over whole rev range (eg idle too) whereas this is very narrow band. i should give the car a good drive so i can better determine if it goes away when warm. got the oil/filter changed yesterday, with any luck that may have fixed it, but thats more of a hope then a possibility i think

actually it has overheated once, after losing about a 1/3 of the coolant due to leaking radiator the sound is rather minor, certainly not overly noticable, maybe just a tad louder than lifters (about 3 of em are noisy). it seems to only make noise at a given, narrow rpm band (like 2000-2100 rpm, and tends to move up slightly on the revs for each gear i think. normally need to be passing fences or something reflective to hear it most of the time noticable on backoff, eg if going in 2nd at 3krpm then letting the clutch off ill hear it momentarily as it passes thru its "noise band". how loud was yours?

same here

car came up with no faults on consult at nissan today, which is weird given the wires missing...although the good bit was that consult seemed to work ok (meaning i didnt botch anything in hooking it up thanks for the site, i actually hooked up 2 lots of wires to the consult lines, one to normal connector, and one which is spare atm, and im going to look into making a pc-consult interface myself (dont have the money to buy a premade one atm) as my leds dont seem to work, i may as well get soemthing i can directly talk to the ecu with to help with any problems in future.

yeh my ecu definitely doesnt have an led on the back. the sdu faq says that this is the case (1 led, 2 leds, or no leds) just doesnt really explain how u do the diagnostic stuff without it. i tried hooking up a multimeter to measure voltage on 33 wrt the ecu earth (60) but no voltage was ever measured (ie the lamp would have never turned on). hopefully consult at nissan tomorrow can work this time, now that ive hooked up the consult lines. also put in all the needed wires into the harness - just a matter of finding out where to get the wires to connect to those now

are u using torrentspy to make the torrent? u should be able to drag a whole folder, or multiple individual files to the exe and then itll create the torrent with all the individual files in it perhaps u could ask silviansw about hosting it there? http://www.silviansw.com/tracker/

also, you have made an iso or something? it would be far better to just have all the individual files in the torrent, that way the other people that already have them can help seed...

i managed to pick up a harness from an auto elec that was working on my brothers car last night, pretty lucky coincidence he came around i cut the harness to start with to work out how to get them out, then it was just a matter of using a pin. about a quarter didnt come out, but i already had more than enough by then. ive removed and wired up the consult port to some of the wires ready to insert. my main problem at this stage is fuel consumption, its pretty bad. i think its been permanently in "default" or limp home mode, if theres a mode that just doesnt use the o2 sensor (replaced it and nothing improved) but still allows free reving and seems to drive fine. want to do whatever i can to get it out of that mode and back into semi-"normal" mode whilst i have time to get other stuff fixed. 56 - this is the output signal, dont think its TPS, thats number 48. no idea if its meant for anything, perhaps auto c/u? ill try hooking a led up to the 33 - exhaust temp led, as i dont know that i actually have a led on the back of ecu, either that or it never got into diag mode or anything that would use it, despite my attempts. 44 - neutral switch, would this be a manual thing or just auto?

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