NewKleer

most nissan cars from 91 to 96-2000ish (depend on model) have a consult connector which is a 14 pin grey socket normally found in the fuse box inside cabin (drivers right kickpanel, or somewhere around steering column) it only has the one consult port. it was originally made for diagnostic operations with a handheld computer that nissan workshops have.

yep ur first on the list any time sat up til 5:30pm is fine (st george footy game on tv then!) if anyone has specific lengths they want for either cord i can do whatever

Sold: 13 ALL SOLD hope to get custom pcb made then perhaps, and have a diy kit available for those who want to make it themselves. Sold: BLK R33 GTST (interface + datascan, pickup) Abo Bob (interface + datascan, sent via express post) skyQUEST (interface + datascan, pickup) Neo_R34 (interface + datascan, sent via express post) bless_you (interface + datascan, sent via express post) zei20l (interface, pickup (snsw)) RedDrifter (interface + datascan, sent via express post) DumHed (test interface, pickup (snsw)) VaSX (test interface + parts for 2nd, pickup (ns.com)) JSL (interface + datascan, pickup) sewid (interface + datascan, sent via express post) d00dz (interface, sent via registered post) Mr GTS4 (interface + datascan, sent via express post) Interested: lbfalcon Kit: elbee111 Adski ------ Peter

yer, theres no doubt they one are of the main reasons behind the current knowledge of it today... they quoted everywhere cause they manage to keep the documents hosted (and updated) whereas a lot of the jap sites come and go. they devote a lot of their spare time to helping others out, so you cant really knock them at all. their circuit isnt too bad, similar to what i ended up going with, and given that once u know what needs to be done, theres only so many ways u can do it, and the simplest is often the best. eg u know u need a 153.6khz clock, so simplest solution is either a counter ic (16 pin, but cheaper) and crystal that divides down to it, or use a microcontroller (smaller, 8 pin, but costs more). however a few things they have in it could be slightly problematic (mainly the TX circuit with potentially too much current to sink for the ecu, the clock signal connecting to raw 12v from car, the low led resistor values, and potential if theyre using 100ma vreg for circuit to draw more than that). having said that, everyone recommends them, and for good reason

plms have done a bit of work on circuits and that, but to think they came up with it all is naive. plenty of different japanese guys, along with the old nissan tech egroup did a lot of the work into this. ive been making some consult interfaces for guys on silviansw for a while in my spare time, got some more parts today so ill be able to make a few more. ive put a thread up here for it. however these blazt ones are good due to not having any circuit in middle of cable, but having smd circuit in the connector. but is there a discount for multiple purchases? cause it looks like thats the normal price? (or more...) ive got connector + 5 pins, $20

Update: in case you dont make it to post #2, im all out of consult interfaces, and have no more planned. hope to get custom pcb made then perhaps, and have a diy kit available for those who want to make it themselves. -------- Been making some consult interfaces for guys on silviansw, now theyre available to SAU. See second post in this thread for status on the current number available/pending. For those who dont know, on stock ecu's that support consult (1991+ nissan cars up till late 90s), you can obtain heaps of stuff from them, such as error codes, sensor readouts, perform active tests (turn off cylinders), and heaps of other stuff. note: these dont work for aftermarket ecu's like powerfc Best software out is $25: http://home.iprimus.com.au/tkolo/datascan.htm some good free alternatives, including scantech nissan, free conzult and calumsult has worked in all cars that support consult thus far (only one s14 had trouble, and wouldnt work with datascan, only scantech) $75, preferably pickup (blacktown area of sydney) so i can show working etc, but otherwise post is ok. cable is long enough to keep the interface in glove box (about 180cm, cable from box to laptop is about 60cm). box size is 65 x 38 x 27mm. requires laptop with serial port (usb serial adaptors are like $15 from ebay). datascan software is +$25 which is passed onto TomR33 of these forums (guy who wrote it) any questions feel free to ask. Peter

i havent either, but wasnt expecting till early next week (given monday was public holiday, so sending out on sat would be like sending out on tues)

did u turn the contrast pot up? read that somewhere in this thread or sydneykids one

as some people have stated, i think the issue is more to do with the engine than the gearbox (just they might get the feedback from engine strain thru gearbox) the main issue is that oil pressure is dependant on rpm - ull get roughly same oil pressure at 1400rpm with no load as u get with load. low load with low oil pressure isnt too much, but low oil pressure with high load and the engine may not be able to get sufficient oil to deal with the higher strain on certain parts of the engine i think the biggest misconception that leads people to shift early is fuel consumption. what isnt as obvious is that if ur cruising, it doesnt make much difference to fuel consumption whether u are in 5 gear with 40% throttle, or 4th gear with 15% throttle - u have to have roughly the same power to keep u at a given speed. fuel consumption isnt just dependant on revs, but most obviously air flow - u might actually get worse fuel consumption given that the engine isnt at its optimal rpm (highest torque removing boost factors) - ur engine needs a bit more air/throttle to get a given amount of power in a higher gear than a lower gear as it isnt running as efficiently.

ive got a head in the shed (rhymes!), rb20...ill check tomorrow

dont rely on this, as the kit probably (almost definitely) doesnt use just the 2 or 3 pins rs232 often uses, but all of them. if they only needed 9 pins or less theyd use the db9 in first place

nah leave it there - supposed to use socket so u can remove it, but if u try to remove it (unless chip is busted u wont need to) then u might damage it (cause u have to heat up all the pins at once continually to remove it often) as for the ic - get a flat surface like a bench or side of bench and press all pins in slightly on either side to make it fit

perhaps nothing wrong with the r33 (aside from being auto and not complied), but you do have a problem answering questions (better to answer here rather than pm) is compliance included in the price?

excellent

see this thread quink : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...07&page=1&pp=25 want to repeat what tommyk said - thanks shan

just deposited 127.70 then for above items, reference NEWKLEER SAU JAYCA unsure whether it will arrive by tomorrow (im anz)

let us know how close you are to groups of 5 for the items. DFA - 52.80 HandController - 39.60 Cable - 6.60 Book 18.70 postage 10 =127.7 ill confirm closer to when uve got a group of 5 ready, but i dont see why i wont get the above Peter

depends what you're after...i dont want to sell all the lifters cause i might need a few for my car now. if i keep the lifters i dont want much for the rest, maybe $40? really only got it for the lifters, supposedly the head itself is in good condition but i havent looked at it personally. not that i dont want to sell it, but if you're after the head or cams then you might save yourself trouble by something locally? (postage is bound to cost a lot to melb)

just putting ad in for anyone needing anything in future: ive got a bare rb20 head (with valves only) + both cams, a few lifters (ie, not the whole set, can only help if ur after a few here and there), cam brackets, rocker covers (probably missing bolts) in blacktown area of sydney

here's another r31, but perhaps slightly more obvious than a typical sleeper http://www.autotrader.com.au/photodisplay....r=N15618796_31D guess it depends if its rb30det or rb30et whether it's worth it or not

one problem i nearly always faced was not knowing which forum to post in. for example, a radiator question, id think it goes in maintaince, but it wasnt specific to forced induction, it wasnt really "general" maintanence i dont really have any solution for this, but this seems to be one of the only forums i dont always know where the right place to post is.

pm the thread starter then

what purpose is there for denying a pm receipt though? just because its an option doesnt mean it has to be used - many other sites have mandatory pm read notifications and none of those ever have issues with people wanting to hide the fact theyve read a pm

turn the option off for registered users to be able to deny pm receipts - most people cant be bothered to send the receipt, which makes them useless. unless ur some kind of dodgy trader theres no reason to need to deny them, right?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/pr...do=edittimeslip