SKYLINED

whats the name of that place in Adelaide?????????

It says it coats the metal chamber in tin oxide I think tin is in the LRP and replaced lead, apparently it boosts the octane rating. Any ideas petrochemical engineers????

I had a new clutch and fly wheel put in mine, the heavy duty clutch is shit i reckon. I heard the R33 GTS and VL gearboxes are similar, anybody know 4 sure???

Spoont!!!!! oh and again!!!!! That is 1 hell of a car, whateva it is!

I got mine checked with the RAA, they did a 4 hr inspection on it. They checked almost everything on it and gave a recommendation on if to buy or not. It helped me out cause they saw stuff i didnt, and it cost $165. Bargain if u ask me, saves the nightmares of gettin a lemon HAPPY HUNTIN!

I got this from a site, hope it helps you out a bit!! (Sorry bout the large post though) We are fairly lucky that we have a wide range of Skylines available thanks to our second-hand car importing industry which has been going strong for over a decade. With so many cars on the market, there is no reason to buy a lemon. Here are some points to watch for with Skylines. · The year of manufacture can be found by looking at the front seatbelts, near the floor mounting point. There is a fabric tag with the seatbelt specifications and the year of manufacture sewn onto the webbing. · Inspect the welded seams in the front door sills just below the plastic kick plate. This is where I have seen rust start to form on Skylines, especially the R32. The R33 has an identical seam, so these will also show in years to come. · Remove the rubber around the boot rim - this is a prime rust spot in any car. While you are in there, look in the side panels and make sure they are not full of water. · Feel inside the panels in the boot where the jack is - debris found here will tell a story. · Watch for glass (broken rear window or tail lights at some point) · Inside the engine bay, look for crayon or chalk marks on components - this may indicate they have been replaced with second-hand parts. · Crawl under the car and inspect behind the front and rear bumpers for signs of collusion damage. · If you are keen, use a set of vernier callipers to measure the panel gaps especially on the doors. · Mechanical - a noisy ceramic turbo isn't a good sign - see if it has been replaced with a conventional steel type. · With the front wheels off the ground, check the play in the top end - any more than 5mm and there could be expensive repairs needed. · Watch the oil pressure when the car is hot - Keep in mind the oil pressure sender is prone to failure. After Purchase · As you may not know the history of the car, it is best to start with a full service. · Air filter - replace. · Fuel filter - replace. · Run a bottle of injector cleaner through the system with the next tank of petrol. · Oil filter - replace, and change the oil. If there is a sludge problem do a hot oil change and repeat within 1,000 km. Don't use an engine flush treatment. · Automatic transmission - have the oil changed. The transmission cooler should also be flushed. · Spark plugs - replace. Make sure they are replaced with the platinum resister type. · Timing belt - inspect and replace. Nissan specify a 100,000 km life for these. Be safe and prevent the rain of valves. · Radiator - add plenty of anti-freeze. Without the protection of anti-freeze (corrosion inhibitor) there are parts that will corrode and eventually cause you grief. Check the condition of all the hoses while you are at it. · Battery - monitor and replace if needed. Japanese car batteries are smaller than the regular sized car battery, and it may be the factory fitted battery (over five or six years old) · ECU - reset it. Make it learn our driving conditions. · Drive safe, respect the roads and enjoy the ride...

Lookin for a full exhaust system for a RB25de 2 1/4" if possible Cheers

Hmmm, ok will give that a go and c what happens Cheers Dude

Anybody know how to reset the computer?

Hey dudes, i think i win the " Slowest N/A Award " I got a 2.5 R33 Totally stock!!!!!!!!! But its got a pumping sound system and blue neon lights on the underbody, and also 4 neons in the footwells too.

get into ya fuse box, get to the radio fuse and give it a try. I think there will be power always past the ignition switch though to start. U can only try!

Are you talking about when the key is in the 1st or second position?

I dare say the radio would come on with key turned to the ignition position, try that 1 !! Hmmm, u need a multimeter or a test light. get into da fuse box and check 4 voltage switch off the ignition and see if it switches. Good luck!, extra security is always a bonus. Especially if it harms the theif in the process!

U will always get 95RON at Caltex/Ampol because they do not want up the octane due to the good cleaning effects of 95 I thought 98 would be better myself, but i aint no chemical engineer!

My insurance rating was the killer, im paying $2600 now! Compared to $3500 for a T A turbo will be mine when i get the rating down!