SLYDA

Ive got a 3037 on mine nismo_freak has a 3037 on his, mines running 18PSI and his was at 17PSI.. both seem to run fine with no issues.

Ive got 740cc's in my RB25.. there fine on idle.

Bought the bottom XForce Cat, car makes 353.08HP at the wheels.. Seems alright... has to be better than stock!

Id say a HKS GT3037 with a 0.68 rear full bolt on kit, however i just checked the price landed in aus and there now $5G :S so pass on that one!. least i know ill probably get what i paid for mine back when i go to sell it in a couple of months!

the mechanic believed someone had flogged the hell outta it (drifting) had SAU stickers on it when i bought it too :S. haha

Actually i think i made a mistake, i think its actually on 18PSI. I will have them in my hand friday, however i have to find a scanner :S.. aparantally i have like 6 pages of data. It also seems that i have quite a major vibration (have always felt it) at higher RPMS which has been deemed to be the diff and the vibration can be seen on the back hubs.. would this be affecting power?

Agreed, however i wouldnt use a device that "lies" to the factory ECU to trick it. PowerFC is the easiest most tunable option.

Hmm... Money... haha im so broke right now, theres $14-15K just in parts in that list including the tune and a few other supporting mods, its all pretty much been done in the last 6 - 8 months whilst its been off the road and thats not including installation as ive done everything but the clutch myself. I get my license back in 3 weeks! so looking foward to taking it for a drive.

Im not sure to tell you the truth. I bought it from some online store as it looked half decent in the pics and I liked the collector design.

from what i believe 4500RPM Nizmo_freeks makes full power by 3750RPM however that was at 17PSI. one of the cooler pipes has been reduced in diamater by having a fan blade smashing into it by approx 1/3 (top pipe going across the fan). Would this constitute a significant restriction of flow? I was actually planning on replacing them with a stanless set as they where chrome plated and its starting to peel off anyway. After replacing the pipe would I need to retune the car? Thats the only thing i could see being a problem as everything else is brand new. As for unbolting the exhaust, it has a brand new Blitz 3" Front Pipe, Brand new High Flow Cat, a 3.5" exhaust with no mid muffler and only the Canon on the rear so i dont think that would be the problem but an idea ill mention tommorow. Im hoping its still on the dyno as they were meant to be checking the cold start tommorow and it was tuned this afternoon.

Hey Everyone, Ive pretty much finished my R33 Build today with the completion of a tune on a DynaPack Hub Dyno, it didnt make as much power as I hoped (was wanting 300RWKW) but the results were 353.08RWHP/263.29RWKW on 19.7PSI with 450NM Torque by 5100RPM tuned on BP Ultimate. The set up is as follows: HKS 3037 Pro S with a 0.68 Rear (full bolt on kit) HKS Induction Piping HKS Split Dump Blitz 3" Front Pipe X-Force 560CFM Highflow Cat 3" Straight Through Exhaust Low Mount Stainless Manifold Hybrid Front Mount Intercooler Turbosmart Stage 3 Plumb Back BOV Apexi Power FC Apexi Power FC Boost Control Kit 740cc Nismo Injectors Z32 Air Flow Meter Exedy Cushioned Brass Button Clutch Walbro 255L/h Fuel Pump with 14.4V Relay Feed Aus Spec Tein Super Street Coilovers Tein EDFC (Electronic Dampening Controller) I've included some pics of the car under the bonnet and inside the cabin, the cars still at the mechanic/tuner as one of the rims got bucked and has been sent off for repair but ill post dyno sheets once I have got them (should be Friday) and the pic of under the engine bay was before the Suspension Install ill take another one once the strut brace has been fitted once it arrives.

RHD Japan is a really good site with thousands of items for Skylines, also JPS Trading also have a huge range of 2nd hand new HKS turbos and other gear and new items!

My GT3037 Pro S clears the strut tower by about 5mm.. thats low mount.

oh ok.. i guess its all up to the tuner and what he thinks is safe really.

how did you find the X-Force one? i have one sitting in its box to put in.?

20 PSI it is... think i might wait till i build a new motor before going to 25+. I was just trying to learn from other peoples experience before costing myself huge amounts over a stupid mistake. The tuner said he flow tests the fuel system before tuning it so we will see how it goes. Im starting to think the 400HP at the wheels mark is going to be a little unrealistic just yet.

hehe, i broke like a few of the stock ones getting them out.. Learnt my lesson and made SURE my 740's went in very very carefully!.. One thing dude if ur pulling them out make sure u replace the seals.. Nothing worse than pinching an old one puttin em back in and it filling a cylinder with fuel.

Have u replaced the O2 Sensor?

I get my license back in 3 weeks! Havnt had one in 3 years ... I know a couple other guys with Liners who would be keen to meet up in the next few weeks!. My 33's going in for a tune and stuff on Monday so im keen to meet up with anyone after the 14 October!

Hi, Just wondering if you guys think 20-25PSI boost is too much for a stock RB25? At the moment i have the following: HKS3037 Pro S 0.68 Rear. Apexi Power FC Apexi PFC Boost Control Kit Hybrid Front Mount Z32 AFM TurboSmart Stage 3 Plumb Back BOV HKS Induction Piping HKS Dump Blitz 3" front Pipe XForce 3" Highflow Cat Straight Through 3" Exhaust Exedy HDCB Clutch 740cc Nismo Injectors HPI Stainless Low Mount Manifold Walbro 255L/h In Tank Fuel Pump with Direct Feed Relay Setup (14.4V 2 pump) (Splitfire Coils) ??? Planning on purchasing but in 2 minds, i think ill wait till i get any breakdown on the dyno Anyone got any idea of a power figure they think ill make? I compression tested the motor dry and got 141 -142 on all cylinders as well so i think its a decent motor.. Runs well just rich as anything (the highflow cat will be put in once they have a decent basemap that wont kill it) Thanks!

thanks for replying ... it was actually the Ignition fusable link in the fuse holder in the boot. I got home today and had no voltage anywhere (no dash lights, no accessories, no B+ on the ignition. Im guessing the fuasble didnt fully blow? and was allowing a very very small amount of current through till it completley failed which completley got me as i was seeing voltage still on ignition and other points i tested last night. I have a Viper 5701 the car alarm installer has made a few mistakes i have corrected ie, connecting the (+) door trigger wire to a (-) trigger system, connecting the back up battery module to the (-) input instead. connecting the bonnet to the boot sensor and the boot to the bonnet. Anyway ive double checked all the connections. Tested everything was connected correctally and when i activate the remote stat and hit the arm key the car keeps running? Its meant too shut down. It has a turbo timer function which is not enabled) and the car has a specific manual shut down process. (foot on break pull park brake up, take foot off brake hit remote start button get out and arm the system. Any ideas? coz its got me..

Hi, My R33 wont start, Crank, Windows wont go down, Head unit wont turn on and Tein EDFC comes up with ERR/ERR trying to set the dampning which is on the same circuit as the headunit. Was fixing a few faults with my car alarm last night as i couldnt program the alarm as it had been hooked up for a positive door switch system. I reversed it and connected it too the (-) input. Anyway all tested ok everything was fine. I then noticed that the starter wire for the alarm was not connected to B+ so i hooked it up too the back of the main power wire for ignition as per Viper 5701 Manual. WHen i was soldering this wire i accidentally shorted it from the power wire to the chasis of the car for a split second. I taped up the connections, didnt think much of anything till I tried to program the alarm, went to lock the doors but had the door motors go crazy, I tried starting it but it wouldnt crank (and i couldnt hear the relay switch either) I thought it was a flat battery however have charged it overnight and is now showing full, i did keep cranking it previously to work out what the fault was with the remote start prior to finding that disconnected wire and did notice that it seemed slightly flat. When i go to start it i get the engine light and the one under flashing, My PowerFC lights up and handcontroller starts up giving Battery Voltage at 12.6v. There seems to be voltage just no current to drive anything? (the door locks will still lock if using the passenger lock switch inside the door, however when trying to arm the alarm they wont, just makes some weird noises and once again chirps but seems like theres no current there once again. After i have tried to crank it 2 lights come up and flash together one is the engine light and theres another one below it i cant remember. Does anyone have any ideas?

try the commodore wreckers in southport. ... hahaha

Looking for a set of brembo F40 brakes front and rear for a R33 GTST - want direct bolt on kit. PM if you have what im looking for with a price and we will go from there!

intrested... any room to play on price??? just a bit over my budget.