Mr. Untouchable

I'd have to say my PFC was probably the best 1500 odd bucks I've ever spent.

if i was you id have a look at the ecu. also, i wouldnt be too concerned about it running up to 13psi. you would of been better off buying a Apexi PFC than spending dollars on a EBC if it is the stock ecu, you'd be better off setting it a 10psi.

is the engine light flashing when the "noise" occurs? if its detonation, and you can hear it whilst driving, inside the car, surely the engine light will be flashing. its not something silly like being able to hear the EBC solenoid ? if its detonating, and the engine light is not flashing, maybe check the ecu and see if it has been attacked. maybe its been fiddled with is you rev limiter at 6800 or 6900 or what ever the stock limter is? what about speed limiter? i know my car a few year back on the std ecu, anything over 10 psi, Rich & retard would chime in, and it would run like a fat kid through sand.

not really buying the laggy turbo's are slower but seem faster argument. (within reason) turbz 25, i think you should just take it to a different tuner. Every tuner is different. not saying your current tuner is a bunny, but if a different tuner comes up with simular results, then you would think its maybe something in your setup. even just get a power run on another dyno and maybe get the AFR's checked again. its a shame to hear you pumped quite a lot of money into it and your still not happy. good luck with it!

regarding the "getting them cleaned and flow tested", yes yes yes. and new O-rings, top and lower are around $20-$25

I bought mine locally, in tas but only since he matched Croyden racing developments. CRD, 1670 Horsepowerinabox, 1695 (were 1650) postage on these bad boys is around 50 60 bux

R33 series 1 rb25, std bottom end and head. Apexi PFC Stryder plenum Q45 Tb 700cc injectors gizzmo thermal intake gasket Splitfire coilpacks XTR highmount manifold F46 wastegate 1 bar spring (with screamer) GT3540r, .82 rear z32 afm bcpr6es plugs, 0.8 gap Castrol Edge 10-60, kn filter, whole 5 litres in it. 600x300x78mm cheapish cooler, custom piping. 3 inch dump, 4" long by 80mm diamtre flexing section about 40cm after turbo, 3" to decat and 3 " to diff and 4" into big cannan bp98 fuel 318RWKW @ 17.6 psi

nozzz nice work torretto

meh, "sall in the tune!!

i'm installing one of these now on my 25. I'm sorta with nismoid when it comes to standard engines. (not standard power wise, as in stock plenum, T/B, radiator etc. I have altered my coolant system by fitting a forward facing plenum, and not running coolant thru the T/B. the highest point has changed and i no longer have the factory coolant bleeder. so i'm running a line from the old bleeder point nibble on the plunum (factory runners and flange) and one from the bottom radiator hose and I have a swirl pot here I may put in the top radiator hose and might run a line from that also. as for expense, you can pick up D1 or M spec breather tanks for a around 100 bux. a coolant line fitting a nipple go for round 30 bux and then its some silicone line. not too much expense really.

I maxed my stock AFM with stock turbo, about 18 months ago when I had the stock turbo I had it tuned and it maxed at around 6,000rpm, 12.8 psi 188 RWKW. maybe because i live in tassie and it was probably not much above 10 degrees lol either way, the light flashes for those 3 things, injectors, air flow metre or dectecting detonation. none are good, i'd get it tuned again also, you say fuel reg? i'd probably shit can that and fit a stock or nismo FPR. you might want to look at a new fuel pump too, maybe thats getting lazy. plus if it hasnt been replaced its been buzzing away for over 10 years, time for a newbie

engine light flashes when the injecters are close to max, AFM is maxed or its detecting alot of knocking. your probably maxing everything if they are stock injectors and AFM, and the knocking noise would be detonation. not good, Re-tune!

I think it has also had the speed limiter removed and maybe rev limiter removed? seems quick for a "stock" car. was gonna suggest a Bee R limiter mat but havent seen you in ages and maybe a dyno run to check out the AFR's. maybe take it to Andrew Kuc when he is done with all the targa cars.

old injector size / new injector size - yeah 66.5, not 75%... woops but not 50%.. so does this basically lean things up? haha i'll leave this to the tuners!

50% correction you say? rb25det stock injectors are 370cc, you have 555's, the correction "should" be 75% yes? 740's 50%?

hey guys, just thought i'd post up my solution incase someone runs into the same drama. I feel like a bit of a dead shit, I went and saw a mate who is a engine builder, and first thing he said was, the intake surface is not sqaure, bring it in and he'd machine it. Sure enough, got home and put a straight edge on it, about as straight as a boomerang.. well its barely noticeable but obviously enough to create drama's. maybe worse when paired with a thermal fibre gasket. cheers

^^^ yes, wouldnt hurt to get the manifold machined. If i were you send GCG a email or give them a call, explain your situation. they would have the gear/know how and have the correct gear to machine it

Awesome, thanks dude. Just what I was looking for. just gotta track some down cheers

ok just found the sealant I used for the coolant tube/coolant solenoid and a few other things. Its Loctite Blue Maxx 587 oem grade "sensor safe", "Profesional quality", "RTV Silicone" "Gasket maker", TEMP range -60 to +260 C but it says not recomended for head gaskets and exhausts (duh) and also says any parts in contact with fuel... the the fact that its no good with fuel is a bit of a worry. any other sealant suggestions?

hey Anthony, there was no real reason, I was chasing a gasket down and when I went to order one ( I was at Revoluton racegear) he said he had one on the shelf.. I had read about the gizzmo gaskets else where and had heard people have had good results with them. So I thought meh what the hell just spent over a grand to do the plenum conversion whats another 100 bux to try make it more effecient. that was all good then but I didnt know it was to be a leaky peice of crap lol you say use a stock gasket with sealant, ok what sealant? brand etc.. cheers

thanks for that wheezy, i'm tossing up wether to take the shine off the gasket with some 1200 or 1500 paper, maybe help the sealant stick a bit better. Hey Adriano, thanks for the input. To answer your question, I just couldnt tell. I suspected the gasket but I also suspected coolant tube/coolant solenoid as it sits so close. And you know what water is like its runs along things and it can be tricky to pin point the leakage point. And it was pretty major so i gave up knowing that it was going to have to come off to be fixed propley anyways. i'm thinking some 1200 grade and some celley's Blue max sealer around the water ports..? or maybe some heavy duty loctite stuff? advice welcomed! cheers

hi there, sorry to start new thread, had a search but didnt find the answer/solution i'm looking for! now I have been adding a few upgrades to my car (33 gtst) over the last few months. I have fitted a new turbo and manifold setup (XTR/CGC manifoild, GT3540r with a 46mm gate & screamer) and new custom dump. I have also fitted a Stryder intake manifold, q45 TB and a bigger set of injectors. the plenum is much like the hypertune items, but uses factory runners like the plazaman jobbies and has the velocity tubes inside also. now with this plenum I installed a GIZZMO racing thermal manifold gasket, its a sort of fibre sheet stuff say 5mm thick. supposed to stop heat transfer from the head/motor to the plenum now i turned it over for the first time today since november, unplugged the CAS, to get the oil up, plugged the CAS in and it ran, like total crap. i have 680cc RB25 red top hi Flowed injectors, which I dialed in (PFC) at 54% and added +11 in the latency's but i noticed i have water leaking everywhere under the plenum... pissing down. now I used blue max silicone water sealer when I fitted the coolant lines/coolant solenoid to the new plenum. but water seemed to be leaking from everywhere under than manifold flange. Note also the oil is now milky under my oil filler cap. Ive never ever had trace's of water in the oil previously so after tossing up wether to burn the bastard of a car or diagnose the leak i have pulled the plenum back off and all the water line under the plenum looks fine, no clamps where left off on any of the hoses, the seal from the coolant tube/water solenoid looked fine. all i can put it down to is water leaking past manifold to head gasket and i assume thats also how water got into the oil in the head. thinking maybe i should use some sort of sealer, but sealer on the gasket seems ghetto? please help tuners, builders and or guru's!!

Gtrs always have it over GTS-t's looks wise thanks to there fat quarter panels and front guards. the poor old gtst's need some fake fattening up. a good choice of kit, and some good offset does a good job with a nice low stance. but even tho i couldnt really afford a GTR when I bought my gtst, i do like driving the underdog.. when your cruising about, people just assume that coz its no "godzilla" its just slow crap. the monaro/FPV bunch and golden examples. i'm not saying that GTR's are not superior in pretty much every way possible, i just love driving a underdog. the look on that ol fat bastards face driving a "aussie legend" looking at those R888's poking out past the qtrs on the GTST is priceless. ya gonna hear spool , gate and thats it... GAME OVER and around a dry track.. other than the start line, the gtr has no real advantage. a well setup RWD is no slower

sounds like pipe work to me. check you havent split any silicone and just double and triple check every clamping point from the compressor housing to the throttle body.

# 1 - hand over the cash and/or pink slips. # 2 - turn the NOZ on. # 3 - get your motec system exhaust warmed right up. # 4 - waight for the "go" sign. # 5 - boost her up and dump the clutch, no granny shifting tho, double clutch like you should. # 6 - keep and eye on that floor pan incase the screws come loose and your checker plate falls out. # 7 - watch the moniter for things like DAMGER TO MANIFOLD # 8 - about now hit the NOOZZZ # 9 - try not to fry your piston rings or me and the mad scientist will have to tear about the motor and replace the piston ring you fried. about now watch for cops good luck busta.... word