Carbon 34

black R33 GTR on beach rd. dude driving while on the phone.... white r32 GTR in front of me at maccas noarlunga, iron chef sticker,nismo and some racing sticker on the rear. bbs style meshie wheels , sounded like a bucket of bolts on idle... heat shield rattling like mad white r33 4dr , clean as in "stupid cheap" parking lot near maccas white aussie r31 turbo flogging it down my street last night ....lets say in excess of 80k sitting on rev limiter.. it's a goat path not a race course boy you can tell schools out,,, all the tools come out to show off how well they can burn out a one wheel peel.. dickheads

6x9 suck in general , but they're fine brand wise for the price I wouldn't have bought them . thats my honest opinion, no sugar coating sorry

mate that is soooooo wrong.. in breeding at it's finest

spotted this just last night he is real I tell you..lol

you don't go above 3500rpm ???? are you driving a diesel??? or your nanna to doctors ??? the N1's power curve will move up the RPM range ,making it less then fun in traffic, have you ever driven a honda VTEC below the 4k, like being chained to a house..lol no torque off boost Ben not saying it won't be fun but after living with a partial tube frame race car on the street for 11 years..... it wears on you, RX7 with 300hp 12a Bridgeport/ alloy flywheel = electric motor , hauled ass but a bit much for a daily. wish I had it now...damn it..lol and ben running too rich can kill and engine over time too, carbon build up= misfire from hot spots of carbon, broken ring when it dislodges, Pete is trying to say the same as me "think before you waste a buttload of money on a daily driver timebomb"

Looks like it has a bent fuel door, and fuel spill down the side int he first photo..lol wheels look price isn't too bad, depending on condition of insides, engine service records etc it's not a V6 but I6..lol I swear I've seen that car in my travels.. but who knows..lol

I think you overlooked something else Ben, you will need to take stock in BP..lol it's really hard to stay off the power in traffic jams, point and squirt becomes a habit..lol = chewing thru fuel overheating in traffic clutch holding up to traffic jams and the worse,, po po defecting your daily. cars are a money pit , fun..... but eat money..lol why run on the edge of the safety of the engine power in a daily driver, makes more sense to tune to 75-80% power then 100% really we do live in the 50k zone.. state cause it saves lives.. yeah right!! N1 block won't save a rod from loosing the end cap and blowing a hole thru the block. I've wasted a few engines in my day , some just off idle not on boost..hahaha destroyed the block in my EVO/ VR4 20k ENGINE

since it has one in it, it would speed up the process if it's "installed right". some plug and play some don't, depends on your features etc. but I doubt the current alarm is Oz standards for insurance reasons if not you can still get the remotes from Directed Electronics dealers, some can get expensive , did you change the battery and try it again ? most take a 12volt battery, about 2 bucks or less you can never have enough security for a Skyline !!!!!!

BAD/dirty ground on the sensor connection most likely , unless you have hacked into the ECU harness, then look at that connection for loose wires ?

Hornet alarms are from Directed Electronics USA low end versions of Python, Viper if that helps Phatt Audio concepts maybe ? in braeside but I would consider upgrading the alarm ?

what looked like Nene's Stag near the airport bout 10ish am

REMOTE STARTS ARE NOT LEGAL IN OZ ADR Rules

white r33 with a lip spoiler, bronze volks I think. RB something on the rego gray r33, dude with dreads and my r34 all at Jaycar today..lol instant carshow sorry for the rain peeps, I caused it by rinsing my car off at BP..hahahahah now its a mess again

fyi, true coax speakers have tweeters , unless you have a wizzer cone model(paper horn/cone in the middle of the woofer) but your alpines would most likely sound better, depending on the models

Not always the case, if your crossover on the tweeters is too close to a power wire it's picking up A/C ripple. alternators produce A/C before converting it to D/C a bad alternator can cause it as well put your ear near other speakers ,does the noise come from all the speakers or just tweets? makes a difference in the fix the splitter you put in can cause it as well. amp grounds, battery connections dirty, bad engine grounds, computer to close to RCA,the list is huge some easy reading for you on noise Noise prevention and on power in a car Alternators,batteries, etc and a site from the GOD of noise reduction, David Navone, I have his big book but you can find it here Tech Briefs

yeah but on large flat area's it looks and sticks better with a roller, the art ones are as good or better then the ones you buy from Dynamat a hair dryer/heat gun on low also helps to get it stuck in the cold weather. but watch your paint, heat guns will destroy it if your not careful sold some dynamat to a kid about 10 years ago, he came back with huge burnt/ paint bubbles in his restored '65 ford mustang, a portable house heater in his shed got to close and bubbled the paint on the door he was applying it too..so be warned.!!!

grey R32 GTR at BP car wash, in the rain last night, beach rd white r33 same road about 730

The build/photos is being compiled to Audiocontrols website in USA first , but hope to finish it for Autosalon in a few months. body kit etc still needs some paint I'd be game to judge the shows in SA , more then qualified after more then 20 years in the industry in USA ..lol

fader from front to rear ? faded to the back not front wrong wires used? factory amps? bypass ? bad crossover wires ? bad RCA or high level signals swap the RCA from the sub to the front inputs and see if you have a signal, but be sure to shut off the deck sub out... if it has a crossover built in. and dont crank it up you just want a sound from them. could be a lot of things have you tried to "pop" the speakers from the amp to the doors with a 1.5 volt battery ?, amp not connected? even with a crossover they will pop when you hit a battery to the wires, with a crossover once the capacitor charges you need to short it out to hear the pop again. PM me for exact details if you don't understand . try not to use anything more then 1.5 volt battery. or it could damage the speakers I'm assuming your positive you have front speakers in the car ? I've heard that one before.. and found they didn't have any installed..lol

art supply store has hard rubber ones in the size needed, or wooden ones for under 20 bucks for a decent one cheaper then mailing one two ways

Yes, I have one 3.5" mounted in my roof where the old sunroof switches lived. doesn't stick down, next to the digital boost gauge also have the ability to switch on my other two 8" to the reverse camera as well, thru a video distribution amp/switcher gotta have a way to display it ?

lol gotta teach em young these days hey Andrew..hahaha don't forget the photos

Oh and if anyone is bored tonight, Car toys has a huge sale on for VIP's and a PROMO MODEL contest starts at 6:30 and runs till 9:30 , auction,door prizes etc I know they don't sponsor SAU but it's a Model search plug..lol Photo shoot with models for members, FREE to enter on the website??? if anyone goes they must post photos , and not on farkbook either...lol TONIGHT’S AGENDA 6:30 - 8:00 Mega Melt Down Sale - for One Night Only All the big brands reduced and clearance stock must go! - Help us choose the face for Car Toys 2010 Vote for your favourite model - Early Bird Door Prize - Register interest in out CRUISIN program to be in the draw 7:30 - 8:00 Photo Shoot with the Top Ten Finalists of the “Search for a Promo Model” We’ll take the photo and send it directly to your email! For Car Toys Members only - join for free if your not yet a member, just ask our models how! 8:00 - 9:30 Main Event - First heat of the “Search for a Promo Girl” Competition - Auction - Final Stage of the Promo Model Search - Introducing a new program for Car Enthusiasts “CRUISIN - a sport, not a game” - Door Prize Draw

Nice wheels,,lol

FYI...That Jensen Amp only puts out 60 watts x4 @4ohms not 600w rms and 90watts at 2ohms CEA Power Ratings Power Output: 60 watts RMS X 4 channels into 4-ohms @ < 1% THD+N Frequency Response: 10Hz to 100Hz (-3dB) Signal to Noise Ratio: 100dBA below reference (Reference: 1 watt, 4-ohms) Additional Power Output: 90 watts RMS X 4 channels into 2-ohms @ < 1% THD+N; 180 watts RMS X 2 channels (bridged stereo) into 4-ohms @ < 1% THD+N Dynamic Power: 600 watts x 2 (bridged stereo) into 4-ohms @ < 1%THD+N Dimensions: 280mm X 65mm X 365mm\ so your actually slightly underdriving the 6x9's at full volume and creating distortion on the top end of the power scale at your crossover freq. if you look at the manual if provides the graphs of distortion and watts at each freq. to setup amp gains on a basic level you can read this Soundstream site to make them sound better ? a baffle/sealed enclosure under them with polyfill , setup with the right xover point, don't use the OEM grills for the car create a spacer plate to aim the sound better, using a RTA or laptop with mic you can even use your iphone with free RTA software, bit crude but better then nothing hope this helps a bit cheers