PIOTREK

Bushes are bush- all are of simular quality, sounds like someone is taking u for a ride bad!!! See wat just the part cost and compare. Got mine changed last week….. Paid 80bucks to get them pressed in and like whiteline bushes cost 120 buck. Add the alignment (only the Front) and its 240 job. That is the cheapest way I reckon. No point getting adjustable arms if u gonna keep the rest of the suspension stock. I went a step up and got adjustable bushed on the front (on car) and that was a little bit more. Makes a massive difference and would 100% recommend doing this. I would say fixing the caster rod bushes made the car handle 60% and got rid of my brake shudder!! Worth the investment just don’t over invest. Hope this helps

do a search, there is a company that sell the arms that give +- 4 camber on the back. Not sure about the front. i think that part number refers to the rear bushes. U also gotta factor in that u must get these pressed in, not cheap unless u r really strong Depends on how bad the camber is too. If its only a tiny bit -u can flip the tyres, but if u got alot might be worth investing. Although normally the skyline has alot worse camber on the back, so check that first!! its just the car That is normal price for the bushes, check whiteline's website.

Hey guys I have done extensive research and this weekend I’m planning on resealing my callipers. The problem that I have been having is there was a lot of brake shudder coming from the front and sometimes occasionally the car would pull the pretty hard under brakes but only at really low speeds. Eg, 20km per hour. While at high speeds its was fine. I had my suspension check out by pedders and the caster bushes where stuffed completely. I have changed them and seen a massive improvement! The shudder is completely gone!! And the only issue that still remaind open is the problem that I have under really low speed braking. It sometimes pulls left and sometimes right, so I’m kind of out of ideas. The problem is more frustrating more than anything!! About 8 months ago a opened the calliper and changed the seal in the middle of it b/w the 2 sides of the calliper. Anyone got any recommendations as what the problem may be, cause I never thought caster bushes had such a critical role in the cars alignment, so could it be something other that the callipers? I'm pretty set on getting the reseal kit but if anyone had this kind of problem i would like to hear your solutions. Cheers thanks

haha ben i thought u changed them to GTR ones lol

there is a sticky in general maintenance, they say to tape up your coils due to tiny cracks in them(electrical tape). Might be worth checking a very cheap option, at least the u can diagnose the problem this way.

well they are in!! i got them fitted today, its a new range from whiteline. This an adjustable bush, but it doesn't need to be taken off the car- on car adjustment. Car drive beatifully straight now, brakes perfectly. It amazing what bushes can do to a car. It turn is so much better and just generally feels really good. Now i worked out that i need new tyres lol they are due soonish but since i fitted caster rods, tyres are letting me down. All in all ,money well spend it think

Ok sweet as, thanks mate! This is exactly wat I'm after

Hey this is a photo of the caster rods that i have bought, are these the correct ones? I think that these are not ajustable caster rods, but just bushes

lol i would have to agree

Hey i just ordered a set of adjustable caster rods from whiteline, as mine are beyond stuffed. Now today i have gone under the car and just wanna make sure where they are meant to sit. The new ones look alot bigger than the stock ones. Here are some photo: (if this post has been covered or DIY created then please send the link, i spent the last 2 days searching ) Any help would be good, as i wanna try and do myself

i have the same question- i have done some research though 12psi is pushing it- 10psi is ok. your turbo can handle 13-14psi max before it WILL blow but they are cheap as chips now day. I reckon that a turbo back exhaust and a cooler is a must!! and if u want 12psi then get a fuel pump too. Stock setting on the ecu should be good for 10psi, but this is from research! Can anyone confirm this?

look in aus there are different standard hence in aus it not even mentioned!! It's like the warning lable on everything odds of it happening are low, but exist. Don't over stress it as both r good oils!!

i had a bov on it and it made the car run like crap, will all this have an effect?

wat about the ecu, 10psi alright? it will be running a 34 cooler, turbo back exhaust, pod and thats about it. Got any other suggestions?

SMIC- stock M...... inter cooler? Wat u want for it?

guys can u explain heatsoak concept i'm not gonna pretend that i understand it. I'm not gonna boost it past 10-12 aka 200 rwkw. So i think that an r34 cooler would be alright? a) don't wanna cut up all the crap cause makes the car look mega cheap b) the cooler look doesn't float my boat- Considering getting and aftermarket one and spraying it matt black. But i reckon that a nissan cooler should be good, like some of the aftermarket crap floating around is pretty bad. The other think i was gonna ask, how does the stock ecu handle 10psi cause i took my blow off value (lol yer i don't like the cooler look haha) cause it was backfiring, skylines are just tuned really good stock i concluded plus the stututututu was too much attention lol

wat is the benefit though? can they handle 12psi?

look give it time to wear in, its not magic fluid lol when its warm in 500km decide if it works for u then. (i also adjusted my clutch while i had my car jacked up, so that could help too) A rebuild is as long as a piece of string with sincros only 500-800bucks, depends on wat u wanna change. Sluggish- i mean the box felt to full and the gears don't go as easy, but normally u can't tell i'm just anal lol Royal purple is a very good fluid!! if your gears are crunchy use redline- but shock proof is only a cover up- doesn't fix the problem just makes the symtoms smoother. Hope this helps

Hey guys, I have done a search and nothing really has come up. I want to fit a slightly bigger cooler into my car, now I don’t want to go big aftermarket as I’m not a fan of the look. ( I am considering using a matt black spray can to help J) I would like to get some insight if a gtr cooler will be a straight fit and how much bigger/ thicker it wil be? I have also considered getting an r34 cooler too? I only really want to be pushing 10-12psi through it, but not too keen on using aftermarket one. What is the easiest/ best option. Plus I want to keep the pod, so I guess a stock cooler would make it leagal Btw its an r33t. Thanks

will this cooler fit directly onto an r33 gtst? $130?

if this doesn't then u need a rebuild simple!! i'm sure that u will see massive results just don't over fill cause the box will feel slugish and u will dirty the whole bottom of your car (person expierence )

yer thats very true, i only really created this thread for people see the photo and tell me if the white wire (turbo timer) is hooked into the right point in the circuit. First i wanna make sure all the connections are correct otherwise its a waste of money.

I'll check tonight, but using the proper measurement it's close to the full bottle, 1 gallen- 3.5l. But smurfs blood expands a grate deal so I drained about 200ml. All up I'd say 3.2-3.3 l. Some say 3L is enough, I had mixed responses when I was changing my gear box fluids too. In all honesty sounds like me i had the same situation, slightly rough gear box and wasn't sure which fluid. After the shockproof I wouldn't change to another brand! But if your box is in good nic, go purple (mine had slight crunch on cold mornings in second, now it's gone) Hope this helps

yer thats the next step, i just assumed that it was the connection near that hand brake. Since i spent all day wiring up a sound system, cbf playing with more cable lol

Mate from person experience shock proof is really good. Royal purple isn't cheap either!! Don't stress over the extra 40bucks!! As it lasts ages, at least30-40km and that's been anal! That put aside how is your box overall? If u got crunchy changes go redline, cause it won't make it worse or damage it. That nylon additives are bs cause shockproof already has that mixed into it, just in moderation! If your box is fine, use royal purple. Shock proof doesn't fix the problem, it covers it up. I mean it might wear out 6km ealier no big deal. If it needs a rebuild, pour shockproof in, or rebuild in u got the cash One word of advice, smurfs blood expands a lot under heat, so under fill rather than over fill otherwise it will leak from the breather. About 200ml under full approx 3.4 l