dave32gtr

I'm not disagreeing, I did say that a rb30 head was different to a rb25 head, and I did say that if you read the forum this is from, that an rb26 head on a rb30 block was the way to go. I don't have the experiance you do, so I guess that my opinion dosen't mean as much. It just seems that no matter what you got, the grass is always greener on the other side.

Hi just thought I would post something that I found on another web site. I know that this compairs and old RB30 head to a newer rb25 head, and I know this discussion isn't about Rb25's. But I thought it was interesting. I think the grass is always greaner on the other side. How ever if you do read the whole forum they all agree that a RB30 with a 26 head is the way to go. But I still think the grass is always greaner on the other side. Quote:Originally Posted by vlthunterwhat are you saying exactly? That people hold the RB30 in too high esteam for their own good. The stock basic form engine isn't magical in its perfromance, in fact you have to start doing some serious type mods to get more than 350rwhp out of on. Take for example Tempests car. It has a full rebuilt and balanced engine, rod bolts, forged pistons, mild port work, fairly decent sized camshaft, springs, rajab intake manifold, GT30 turbocharger, manifold, external gate, CDI ignition, and it makes 380rwhp on 20psi and pump fuel. A stock RB25 with one of my kits makes 400rwhp on 18 psi with a free flowing exhaust. Do i need to say more?? The RB25 is just an all round better engine. People repeat themselves over, and over, and over, and over..... about teh lack of torque with an RB25. HAve any of you people even driven a decently modified RB25?? I highly doubt it. This is where the whole internet speculation sh1t yet again creates a "theory" that is backed up with nothing more than peoples opinions. I challenge anyone to go for a drive in a well modified example and find its faults, as they have few. Like I said, if you want to compare figures, the RB25 makes full boost 200-300rpm later than the RB30 with a GT35 turbo, and makes power for an extra 1500rpm, easily, change to some 3.7 diff gears or even 3.9's and at the same road speed, the 25 would out accelerate and outpower the 30 with the same turbo and same boost, seeing as how its making another 80 flywheel hp.

Hi thought I would put in my 2 cents worth. This is my experiance and what I was told. A colder plug has a colder spark and producers less power, however it is more conductive and therefore will ignite under more pressure. A hotter plug has a hotter spark, producers more power but is less conductive, therefore wont ignite under higher pressure. A bigger gap provides a bigger spark, which ignites the fuel better and producess more power. However a bigger gap is less likely to ignite under a higher pressure. For example, someone befor said that they put in a spark plug that was running realy smooth at idle and in the lower rev range, but was missing up high. I would say that they have a spark plug that is too hot. Ignite the spark really well with less pressure and will run better than the other plug but wont ignite as well under pressure. Therefore misses up high. Thats why alot of people with close the gap to make it easyer for the spark to ignite. I run an 8 in heat range with a 1.1 gap. When I put in a 7 with a gap of 1.1 I get better fuel economy (almost an extra 100km to the tank) and more response down low. But when I put my foot down and boost gets over 12psi it will start to miss. So the trick is to get the right heat range with the right gap for each plug. I use NGK plug and I use the V-groove. I also use the copper plugs too, I tried the iridium plug but couldn't get them to work for me. I even sent my plugs to melbourne for one of there enginers to tell me what to run, but I went back to what my tuning shop told me to run. Now I am not saying that I am right, this is just what I was told, and I thought I would add it as I thought it might give people enough of an idea on how to experiment with ther plugs and there gap and there heat range. Anyway hope this helps someone out there.

Sorry I'm a bit late on this one but here is my 2c... I have a 32 gtr with nothing much done to it. My mate has a vl commodore with a rb30et in it, and I know someone else with an rb30 with a rb20 head (in a stripped out vl that gets raced). My mates vl has more mods than mine but when we have a race and it is the same. The guy with the rb20 head is quicker than us (but has more mods) but for the money and effort I don't think it was worth it. My other friend with a gtr that has had a few mods (but still not the dollar spent on it as the vl with the rb20 head) is only just behind the vl with the rb20 head. My mates rb30 power comes on sooner, mine later (I don't care cause I don't race cars with only 3000 rpm on my tacho). For a light to medium tune I would just stick with what is in the car. I really don't think it matters, each to there own. I wouldn't worry swapping heads on a rb30 either. vl's have been doing 9 sec quarters for a very long time without swapping heads, spend the money somewhere else. I think they both the same, look how many ppl love there rb30 and how many love there rb26. Just my 2c not saying its right or wrong, I just don't think there are any great gain from one over the other. Ps sorry if it is a bit hard to read I know it jumps around a bit. If you want to know more about rb30's go to http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/

The old tune is avgas with 25% to 30% toluene Thats if you really want to use it.

Lol yeah, my girl has tried to get me to get me to sell mine, but I am staying strong to the cause!! I still have it, it sits at my parents in there shed. It will come back out one day, bigger and stronger than befor!! Saw my first 35 yesterday in bris, number plate 1 gtr. They look better in real life. I wasn't sold on the look of them in pic's and on youtube, but in the flesh they look good! I like it, I like it alot! If I get told to sell the 32 cause we need something a little bigger, I think I might get a 35 lol... I wish lol...

Yeah i went to Chris's wedding last year. I am getting Married too this year, and will be looking to get some GTR's together for the day, but I will put a post up when it gets a bit closer to the date. Everyone is getting old and doing all that silly stuff like getting married and having kids lol.

I tried to upload a pic of my car not sure if it worked, guess i will find out when I post this. Yeah I do remember the starlet. I even remember racing him . Graham has just bought a nissan stager, one of the new ones with a v6 in it.

Yes it is gunmetal gray (yah someone remembers me lol). I was friends with Graham (who had the blue bird turbo), Kim and Gav (who had the pular gtir that Ragolie's blew up, more than once). I know a few ppl saw me race Stew (I think that was his name) in a black torana when I first got my car. Plus I put my car in a dyno comp in Kunda park and got second by 6 hp(although I got ripped off cause they where doing my car in 5 gear hittimg speed limiter till i pointed it out, so they did it in 4th, but they did the v8 car that beat me in 3rd gear). There was a few more times I raced ppl, but these where the times were there was the most ppl there. And yeah I have seen a midnight blue one, but it was a while ago. I don't come out much anymore so I am a bit out of the loop.

Lol new people!! I have had my 32 GTR since Jan 2000, and use to cruise the coast in it, and befor that I had a white four door r31. And yes i think it is still gay, I don't really go for a lap/look anymore because of the cops.

Quadrant suspentions import Biltiens. They are ment to be one of the best in Australia for setting up Skylines with Bilstiens. I would atleast talk to them. They set up alot of the cars for the targa Tasmania. http://www.quadrantsuspensions.com.au/

It all comes down to flavour of the month. The media focus on a dramatic traffic accident (eg: dickhead crashing an import at high speed); bleeding hearts do gooders complain that the police are not doing their jobs; Cops host massive defect checks and target every import until their quota's are met in order to respond to the outburst with facts and figures. It's hard not to hate the cops because they are the ones pulling you over for nothing, but they are not all that is to blame. I just stay smart and stay low. I take my bike out when I want to go for a thrash, and I cruise around discretely in my Skyline to show that I am still alive. I agree the police aren't totally to blam. My sister use to work for the council and I know that they targeted the "hoons". I find it a little amussing that they targeted the hoons on the sunny coast. They brought up cops from Bris to try and stop everyone from crusing. So then less people did go crusing less, and what do you know, violence and drunkin behaviour in Mooloolaba goes up. Now they are trying to get ride of all the night clubs in Mooloolaba. So soon there will be more house parties. Yah bring on the 300+ people parties that get out of hand and trash the street!! I think it would have been easyer to just let us sit in the car park with our cars. But the council dosen't appear to be very smart here. We even put in a proposal a few years ago to use the runway at the airport after 10pm (as planes didn't land there after 9pm). They could have even made money off it, but they didn't want to be seen promoting hoons.

Hi thought I would put in my 2 cents worth. This is my experiance and what I was told. A colder plug has a colder spark and producers less power, however it is more conductive and therefore will ignite under more pressure. A hotter plug has a hotter spark, producers more power but is less conductive, therefore wont ignite under higher pressure. A bigger gap provides a bigger spark, which ignites the fuel better and producess more power. However a bigger gap is less likely to ignite under a higher pressure. For example, someone befor said that they put in a spark plug that was running realy smooth at idle and in the lower rev range, but was missing up high. I would say that they have a spark plug that is too hot. Ignite the spark really well with less pressure and will run better than the other plug but wont ignite as well under pressure. Therefore misses up high. Thats why alot of people with close the gap to make it easyer for the spark to ignite. I run an 8 in heat range with a 1.1 gap. When I put in a 7 with a gap of 1.1 I get better fuel economy (almost an extra 100km to the tank) and more response down low. But when I put my foot down and boost gets over 12psi it will start to miss. So the trick is to get the right heat range with the right gap for each plug. I use NGK plug and I use the V-groove. I also use the copper plugs too, I tried the iridium plug but couldn't get them to work for me. I even sent my plugs to melbourne for one of there enginers to tell me what to run, but I went back to what my tuning shop told me to run. Now I am not saying that I am right, this is just what I was told, and I thought I would add it as I thought it might give people enough of an idea on how to experiment with ther plugs and there gap and there heat range. Anyway hope this helps someone out there.

How much money do you want to spend? Cause that is going to determin everything. Do some research and find the best mechanic on a r33 skyline in your area (make sure they have done it befor). Don't worry how much they charge, because you will get it back in knowledge about your car. Then talk to them till they are sick of you, and then ask some more questions. Although it is good to go in with some knowledge so you have some idea whats going on. So I would read as much as you can this forum. I do find the info on this forum is in general better than other forums. Then work out a plan with your mechanic on how to get the best out of your car with what you can afford.

Here is something you guys should know (but prob don't wanna hear). I know of 2 well known tuning work shops (who I wont mention as I like my fingers and toes) who when they take a car to do an install (be it a new turbo timer or a full engine build), use to take a copy of the key. Then rig up the car alarm so that it would lock the car, but not immobilize the engine. Take note of the nuber plate, where its from, and if they can where the owner works. Then at a later date go and find the car, open the door, alarm goes off, put the key in, and drive off. Within 48hrs the car would be in bits and/or on a boat overseas. One of the guys ended up going to jail for it. So every time anyone has my car for any period of time I check my security measures (I don't care who they are I still check them).

I agree, don't worry about replacing your pipe work. I run 1.3 bar (not all the time though) and over the last 3 years I have blowen a pipe off probably 3 times. Just put a screw driver in your car to put it back on. If it is a problem it is easy to replace later anyway. As for intercoolers, mine is 600 x 300 x 90 I can't say that I have realy noticed much lag from going bigger. I can't say I really saw any real gains from it either, but I did it for looks. I would go with what VB said, get the one that fits the easiest. Blowing a pipe of is not really a problem because your car will run rich if you do, which means your not going to damage anything. Save your money it's probably not going to be a problem anyway.

I've had a set of DTM wheels for 5 yrs now. There not bad the only thing that i don't like about them is I have seen quiet a few cars now with the same wheels as me. Other than that they have lasted ok. The clear on the rim is lifting a little but I would expect that from a cheap wheel. I think there pretty strong I have split the side wall on 2 (different occasions) pirelli p-zero rossos from doing over 200km on rough roads (don't like the tyre at all), and the rims are still good. So yeah if that is your budget than I would say get them. That said, I think it is worth it so save a little longer and get the wheel you want.

Of all I have read on this site I am yet to see anyone who has used a holinger gear box. Is there any reason for this? Has anyone used one?

Hey what is your budget? I like JE or cosworth pistons, and maybe JUN or Tomie rods?

Yeah I agree it's overkill. I will stick with a single plate as long as I can. For one it's cheaper to replace when you where it out, and I am led to believe that multi-plate clutchs are harder on gear boxs. That said I have never had one so I am only going off what I have been told. Also did you know that Tony Regoli in his wrx back in 2002 when he was the fastest in the world ran a single plate. Just food for thought.

One of my friends had a Trust gear set in his 32. He use to race the car. He liked the gear set, said it took him a while to get use to it, but the harder you changed gears the better it was. Don't know what it would be like for a street car though.

Just thougt I would find out who has broken a gear box. What happened (striped 3rd). How much horse power did you have. What sort of box did you have (32, 33, 34, stock, aftermarket), etc.

Hey I know this is off the topic a little. My car use to crunch first at the lights and if you where a little miss timed with the clutch on the gaer change it would crunch. I got my clutch changed because all of a sudden I had a large vibration. I had cracked my flywheel. After replacing it I never crunched again. I think I am lucky my flywheel didn't let go when it finally decided to go. The only thing holding it together was the ring gear. So now I am alway carful when my car starts to crunch.

This wont help at all but. I did have my car stop making boost for anout 5 min once. Don't know what happened. Then it just cam back befor i got to where I was going. That was about 5 years ago, and it has never done it again.