tricstar

No its got a Hypertune intake so no bleed there, I plumbed one in on the turbo feed line, because the TO4 is high mount, I wanted to be able to bleed that line as it is nearly the same height as the top of the radiator. i'm happy now I can see flow through these lines. what do you think about the thermostat and opening temps?

:banana: well now it does to everyone for your advise.. I left the car running for more than 10 minutes with the A/C on full, and watching the engine temp on my computer plugged into the motec, and it wasn't until it hit around 85degrees that I got air and then coolant out of the bleed, obviously thats when the thermostat is opening, ( higher than I thought ) judging by that, with the 65mm ARC radiator, some days the thermostat would hardly even open? is that an issue? should I look at putting a lower temp thermo in?

alright for those playing along at home, here are my findings from some tests I just carried out.. not sure if they tell us anything? Firstly this morning when i took one of the turbo water lines off, coolant poured out?? anyway went ahead with the hose in the radiator and coolant came out both sides of the turbo.? Put my finger over the return and it still flowed out the feed. Now where am I at ? I'm going to warm it up now to get thermostat open then in theory shouldn't I be able to bleed the turbo line through the bleed valve I've put in which sits on a 180mm riser? I realise the water for the turbo is just there for when the engine is shut down to take away the heat soak from the bearings, my turbo guy said without it, it will reduce the life of the turbo. Have my tests eliminated blockages and am I right to think that once the thermostat is open it should pump out my bleed valve?

Costs nothing to be civil, but that seems to get missed on the internet.. lets no turn this into a bitch match. I'll try all of the above before I go pulling stuff apart. It did have an oil only turbo on it before ( Turbonetics GTK850) since changed to TO4Z, pretty sure that hasn't had water for a while now either, still fine, just smells warm when you shut it down, want to sort it before I kill the bearings. also I had the radiator cap off yesterday when the water was warm and there didn't seem to be flow in the radiator ? not obvious anyway?

yeah did give it a couple of rev's.. And I remember now when I first installed the lines and started the car with the line off to check for flow and coolant definately pumped out..?

omg fss, ok I should have said "flow" not pressure.. and the turbo feed should definately have flow when the engine is running. Well it did when I put it in. Obviously there is going to be a difference in heat between top and bottom hoses, but I would have thought if there was 80 degree water going through it, it would be hotter. anyway seen as we all know very little and you know all, why is there no water going through my turbo now, when there was previously??

yep all new hoses, I did the water lines to/from the turbo, took the feed from same place as stock feed, under the intake towards the back, and returned to factory spot, top rad hose on engine? did this about 18 months ago and there was good flow when I tested it, think I've answered my own question there.. must be thermostat or pump !?

engine about 20k old, so is 65mm ARC radiator, yeah start with thermostat then water pump... cheers Blake, nah I'm in Perth, but thanks

No, I just check some engine logging and driving around even with a few squirts it's around 82 deg. and at idle 80' ?? if it was a stuffed thermostat or pump you would of thought temps would be higher? however I would like to rule out thermostat, so I will take it out and check it. How do I rule out water pump?

This is following on from my turbo no water issue.. so I pulled both hoses off turbo and started the car, no water came out of either? after a bit of thinking I put this down to cold engine and thermastat not being open, I also thought maybe a blockage, but I blew in one pipe and coolant came out the other? I then put a bleed valve inline on one of the turbo water lines, and after taking the car for a drive to warm up and then cracking the bleed, still no water comes out ?? also after a bit of a drive, the top radiator hose is too hot to touch but I can hold the bottom one ?? The odd thing is I'm sure this has been like this for a while (couple of months) and haven't noticed the water temp gauge read any different( standard GTR gauges) and thats including doing some race events etc What is going on with my water pump? or what could it be?

Cool I have one of his Torque Split converters in my car, I'll send him a message ..

sorry to butt in, but what is this "Paul's Engine Monitor" and where can I get one??

Hi Trev. It actually didn't look to bad. Still meat on both sides of all three plates. Only 1mm - 2mm, not sure what is acceptable ? The carbon one is so different.

Well done on the videos Matt Just changed clutch and gearbox today what a day.

yeah brakes are good, especially coming down the hill at 230kmph, its a good test for them, they get freakn hot,, more than just over heating ? didn't glaze them up on sunday ?

Looking and sound good up until that point /-; thought I might have heard a bit of swearing, but no, very composed.. Also hoping it isn't a biggie nice pics, good work mate

Lucky we've got Chris flying the Skyline flag up the front, keeping the Evos honest.. Should be a fun arvo, plenty of RB's if the usual crowd are running

Mate if they want they will find something to sticker for... Just drive sensibly and keep your nose clean, also if you hang with a bunch of hoons, i'd say your chance of getting stickered is greatly increased. I've been driving a R33 GTR stroked, big single, big cams etc etc on the street for the past 2 years no dramas. Wouldn't worry ( read ) to much about it,

thanks Disco that does help, sounds like I need a cooling system header tank in one of the turbo lines,( turbo does seem to the highest point ) shouldn't really matter which side of the turbo its on should it ? as once the motor is switched off it'll work out its own direction? also how big a tank 500ml-1L ? Motor has been running for about 20k km's, recently used a different turbo to manifold gasket which lifted the turbo about 5mm, must have been just enough to change the flow. thanks again disco

yeah thats it, 46 Grogan rd, near international airport..

maybe I should unbolt the other line off the turbo, turn the engine over a couple of times and see if water flows thru to rule that out..

haha I took the photo with my laptop to save having to load pictures from camera, and some how its mirror imaged or something ..

Are there any golden rules with the water feed and return, lately I've thought the engine smells warm after shut down,( turbo really) when you come back 5-10 minutes later.. recently I replaced the braided line water feed with a hard pipe take off from turbo, due to what I thought was a damaged braided line due to heat. As you might be able to see I've had to bend the hard down a bit to fit it between engine and turbo, Is that going effect the feed considering its just gravite feed once engine is shut down, or is it more syfin? (Spelling?) whats got me wondering is when I took the braided line off to replace with hard pipe, the turbo was bone dry, and I just checked it now ( unscrewed hard pipe) it wasn't dry but coolant didn't pour out everywhere?

Just took my entry down today for the arvo session, and there are still spots left, but not many I would think, especially since the NoLimits Event on the 19th has bee cancelled.. PS why has the youtube clip I had embeded now become a full screen shot, since the website was updated?? can anyone in admin. put it back the way it was?

don't know about the first gear test ( never heard of that ) but if you want to test clutch and check if it is slipping, 4th gear under load... eg. drive in 4th on freeway and push it onto boost, if its going to slip thats the most likely.