tricstar

Can't believe no one has said it yet, but give Jim a call. He does good rebuilds on some twins. And will point you in the right direction. (Jim Berry that is )

cool, can you also have a look and see if they blocked off the line from reservoir in the boot or just the line from solenoid to diff?I should do a DIY when I do the swap for future reference.

OK I've got the Non V-spec diff and axles, now I have a few questions about what to do regarding the hydraulics and electrics? My thinking is, just block off the hydraulics from the pump under the car and rip everything from there to the diff out.. I'm thinking I shouldn't need to cut or disconnect any wiring (except the obvious between pump and diff) as the new diff will be locked before any signal is sent.? Being that the A-LSD is on the same circuit as the AWD I don't want to hack it and then get faults with the AWD ? How do others do it ? What have you blocked off, cut etc?? (Nismoid)?

can't of been too bad, there were alot of really really good times... What tyres are running?

how'd it go guys ? wow, some fast times up the top of list the winner with a 56 second LONG track... Gav with 63 very respectable,. You getting the gremlins sorted Paul ? honda civic 68 sec

thought I'd put out there uncase someone has one sitting in the shed... I don't actually need the diff insides just the casing and the shafts

thanks Cory, just rang JPC, they sold 3 in the last few days, more coming in a couple of weeks.. BUT they want $850 for standard diff with axles?? would you call that appropriate Ash??

spoke to a mate in the know last night and the R32 GTR diff and axles is a touch shorter... so I'm after a R33 GTR non-Vspec diff and axles, anyone ??

That's awesome. Thanks Nismoid. Just to clarify is the r32 diff and shafts compatable. Only ask because there is a whole rear diff and shafts for sale ATM with a 1.5 Nismo in it.

but from what I have read, I need to change the whole diff housing as there is no after market diff centre to fit into the Active-LSD housing?

ok due to the head fxxk of the A-LSD, I've decided to change to a mechanical LSD, so do I just need the standard diff housing? can it be an R32 GTR one ( my car is R33 GTR ), is there any difference? also will the drive shafts and tail shaft bolt staight up to the standard diff?

mate your changing the oil not the clutch? Torque specs??

mate, all your gonna get is lot opinions ( I use this, its the best etc ), depends a lot on what you use the car for ? I've spoken at length to a guy that builds and rebuilds these box for a living, and he basically said this.. if you are just driving around the streets with abit of hard driving here and there, then by all means pay the extra and get the expensive stuff and only change once a year or there abouts..or if your doing a fair bit of track and sprints then any oil the right weight will do the job, just change it after every couple of events..thats what my gearbox guy says anyway. and he said make sure you don't go too thick in the gearbox, something around 75-80.. It's going to be pretty much the same with the diffs. just make sure you get the right weight .

I have done a lot of searching, and there is quite a bit of info about the Attesa E-TS pro and a bit about the A-LSD, but I still can't find what I'm after.. this is in a R33 GTR Vspec.. they both share a fuse in the boot, and when I follow the process outlined in the manual to put the car in RWD ( lets not get into the pro's and con's of that ) it turns the attesa off but also takes out the A-LSD, both run off the computer in the boot. Does anyone know if there is a way separating E-TS from the A-LSD ?? I've been looking at a lot of wiring diagrams, but its beyond me can someone with a bit of smarts have a look at the wiring diagram and tell me if its doable ..

I'm not doing this one, will have a look at some of the Hill Climbs etc coming up in the series tho good luck guys

ok Peeps I have 2 tickets to the paddock tommorrow, not needed anymore, they cost me $30 each free to good home.. Call or text me this arvo if ya keen 0411861466 cheers Richard

Clutches don't slip if in good condition and nothing wrong, shouldn't matter if its cold or not ( unless its a full carbon, but thats another story ) Load it up in 4th and see if it slips again, could answer your question. also change fluid ( make sure you use the right weight oil ) Car is 15+ years old, could just be normal wear on box..

That is very impressive !! will have serious look at them next time round !

Let me consult my diary, hopefully I can do some of them, will report back

Service ? as in change oil and filter ?? do it your self.. Or I have used most of the above with good and bad results over the years ( do it all myself now, rather me stuff up and learn something, rather than someones apprentice ) AutoWorkshop/TokyoMotorSport would get my vote, very reasonably priced and thorough.

I'll start off with my usual disclaimer, " I'm no Mechanic but " It is my understanding that when you are sitting still with the car running in neutral with your foot off the clutch ( I'll avoid the press-depress issue ) the input shaft is obviously turning at the same speed as the flywheel and so is other stuff in the box, so I'd take on board what turboedsloth says I'm pretty sure he rebuilds gearboxes does sound a bit raspy to be throw-out bearing,,,, could wrong,, either way its box out

Yeah did a bit of searching last night and from what I can tell the lower temp thermostat is shit, no real benefit at all and on the down side, takes longer to get up to operating temp So yeah I'll be sticking with standard..

Just read this whole thing, quite entertaining I've had a good look at Gav's GTX setup and no matter how much black paint you spray around on all that pipe work, when a cop opens your bonnet ( which is what you are worried about ) he is going to sticker your car just as quick as if you had high mount single I think with your original guide lines, that rules out the GTX, or dare I say it, you might as well go single

yep.... got ya, I did that directly after installing turbo water lines and refilling rad. when I first did them.. now after having the lines apart again I should do again thanks heaps

It comes from the metal pipe that runs under the intake , which also looks like it feeds from the block just below the head towards the back under the intake, if that makes any sense?