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Try here Precision Shims Australia www.precisionshims.com.au ph (03) 9723 0199 4 Fay Court Croydon Vic 3136 Then get nissan to get you a price on replacement shims.

The pump- I measured my pump gears with a micrometer and then the depth of the casing without the gears- found the surfaces weren't exactly symmetrical making it difficult to get an accurate measurement with the depth micrometer as per manual. I wouldn't machine the gears as I imagine they are case hardened, just put the gear case in a lathe (4 jaw chuck needed for non concentric inner circle), true the inner face then the outer to required tolerance to suit the gears (I used high speed steel, radiused nose sharpened on a stone rather than a replaceable tip tool for better surface finish)- I ended up taking about 0.04 off the inner face for it to run true and then 0.085 off the outside face for the clearance I needed Chase the threads for the seal bolts with a tap and clean the bolts really well. If you send me a list of the seals and bearings you want to replace I'll give you the part numbers- or nissan should have them on their computer. Dunno about the clutch plates, I'll have a look at my worn ones when I take out the transfer case in the car, but it's the friction plates that wear down- the criss cross pattern disappears and ATF can no longer be dispersed from between the faces under clamping and they slip, so I think I remember reading somewhere. You plates look OK, they're certainly the big dollar replacement part for the case (Apart from replacing the hydraulic ram- would you believe its 450 or so bucks? And the chain is about 600.....) Let me know how you go Andrew And if you find a downloadable R33 manual let me know......

You betcha i tried- took the seals to a custom seal making place and every bearing shop with no luck. Rang EFI in vic but no luck- you can probably find a seal that's close but you'd need to modify stuff.... I put the plenum and throttle bodies on a pressure testing jig I'd set up and ran 30psi with the standard seals (2 popped out) and then the XS seals (no leaks) They do have a spring in the inner lip but it's still a twin lip for both vac and boost. the main issue i had with seal places was the minimum thickness they had off the shelf was 6mm and the stock seal is 3mm thick. i reckon the XS is worth it for the hassle it saves.

i've used threadlocker 518 flange sealant- I like the threadlocker stuff as it's less messy, easier to cleanup on reassembly and never had a leak, the manual states 518 or equivalent for the top plate join. likewise i've got just the transfer case as a spare and will swap it over with the one on the car as it slips a lot, looking forward to feel the difference new clutch packs make. When you measure the clutch pack to retaining ring gap you will need to have it all assembled with the hydraulic ram installed or it won't be correct. This includes putting the assembled (but without the top chain drive hub) hub assembly with speedo drive into the case and torquing up the locknut with the driveshaft flange installed (I know I mentioned the ram previously)- I would check the differences in the R33 transfer case to the R32 for the preload factor in the R33. Don't have an R33 manual sorry. Might look one up though.... Also to correct myself, I have a 0.4 and a 0.5 shim left over for the hub bearing to top case clearance gap. I would be considering replacing this bearing (plus a few others- 2 week wait from japan for most of them) if you are doing it properly, as well as the seals- the pump might be out too, if you have a depth micrometer you can check the clearance between the gears and the case, should be .02mm to .04mm clearance. You cannot buy new gears as they no longer make them so I had to pop the case on the lathe and take a small cut off the face to reduce the clearance. Also trued up both running faces. Also get some thread sealant for the bolts that bolt the pump back on to the case as you cannot buy the replacement bolts anymore either. So Nissan told me. Even though I then got 2 in the delivery- go figure. These are seal bolts so it's important. Am more than happy to share what I've learned in the process- the manual is fairly self explanatory for most of it but don't hesitate to PM me if you need a little help

Hey mate, just finished doing my transfer case with new plates, bearings, seals etc- when measuring the gap between the top clutch plate and ring you need to have the hydraulic ram installed also as it pushes on the pack when installed. The distance should be between 0.2-0.5mm on an R32. As far as I'm aware there is a small amount of preload on the R33 transfer. Not sure what else is different. Watch that the clutch hub doesn't pop too far out (towards top of case) or the two retaining half circlips can pop out (undo the lot again to re-do)- that's why the manual suggests you put 2 small drops of retaining compound on the ring and half circlips when installing. The bottom plate in the clutch pack set up is the 5mm one. If you need slome explaining or assistance in measuring the clearance for the shim between the top bearing on the clutch hub and the top plate let me know- I have a 1mm, 5mm and 6mm shims left over. The heat pattern is also from the welding of the hub base.

Hey here's some options- you can book a hotel near the airport (lastminute.com)for about 90- 120 for the night, cost about 10- 15 bucks in a cab though still (fri night has about $3.50-$4 flagfall plus dollar airport pickup fee), then I can give you a lift to holland park in the morning (I live quite close by and don't mind) OR I can pick you up fri night from the airport and take you to a motel nearer to Holland Park and you can cab to where you need to go in the morning- look on lastminute.com again and there's a couple of places for about 100-120 for a twin - greenslopes and carindale are close (10 bucks max in a cab) to where you need to go. Hotel Carindale has an Irish pub/nightclub so if you need to not be potentially distracted from sleep for your drive back down I'd suggest the greenslopes motel option....... Let me know what you book and feel free to text call me 0403 486 876 Andrew

Having just dealt with this issue I can recommend this product- http://www.xs-engineering.com/xsstore/pc/s...tle+shaft+seals The website doesn't work properly when ordering (can't place an order) and you can't phone the place (in the states, you get a machine)) but if you email them through the store email you'll get a reply, took about 2 weeks delivered all up and around 130 AUD. You also get to take your plenum and throttle bodies off which is lots of fun. I also have 4 good condition second hand stock seals available if needed. Sorry the pic is a bit useless

Hey dude, you sure it's Holland Downs? There's a Holland Park- about 30 mins from the airport. How many of you travelling and what time you arriving? Might be able to supply said lift, can look at hotels for ya too, what's your budget? PM me if you need

For mechanics, I take mine GTR to Brisbane tuning at wooloongabba- but there's also Godzilla motorsports (southside) or you could try Mercury Motorsports which is over your side of town.

hey Lewis, I'm in Bris (southside) and will be happy to help you out if needed with whatever- you can text me or call on 0403 486 876- Andrew

you'll need to undo the lower control arm and sway bar from the driver's side hub and the nut for the driveshaft to swing the hub out and get the driveshaft out. You should be able to pop the diff end of the driveshaft out with some levering and pulling without having to remove the diff cover. It's a tripod type CV so cut the old boot off and there's a retaining ring stopping the tripod from pulling out of the case which you need to remove. Thorough cleaning to get rid of the old grease and don't forget to slip the small end of the boot on the driveshaft before re-assembly. Be a good opportunity to do the outer one too, if it's looking close to replacement time.

Your flow is fine with standard, the benefit is not flow, but boost response- I reckon i got between 200- 500 rpm better boost response after port matching the turbo side of my ex manifolds, which makes a difference with a GTR. If your bolting higher flowing turbos on the gains will be even more valuable to combat a laggier setup. Easy to do, if your manifolds are off, use the old gaskets as templates. Just need a decent die grinder and burr, and a good care factor.

It might be the hydraulic feed to the transfer case that's dripping- you will get slow response on the gauge if there's air in the hydraulic system too. check exactly where the leak is coming from before panicking too much and post it up. If you end up needing to fix the transfer case it's easier to buy a second hand one (200-300 bucks max) than rebuild-I have just rebuilt mine with new clutches and everything- parts end up being about a grand to do the minimum required (new bearings etc) Labour would be a bit though- I'd be happy to help you out though if your stuck for a financially viable option, I now have a spare transfer case with some good condition clutches and a fair bit of info on how to work on them.

Got a quote the following part numbers? I'd be interested to know the difference - transfer case clutch packs no. 3153205U00 and 315361P400. If you can find the following I'll definitely consider buying them from you- 31346-05U00 and 31347- 05U00 (oil pump drive gears for transfer case)

The place is A&F driveshaft repair, in clarence st, coorparoo, next to the train station. I'm just down the road so if you wanted to you could drop the shaft out in my garage and check the condition of the CV joint. If it needs replacing or work the shop can do it in a day and wouldn't be more than 100 bucks worst case scenario. If your joint is OK then you can simply grab a new boot and grease for about 25 bucks and your sorted. If this sounds like a plan then give me a bell/ text on 0403 486 876 Cheers Andrew

Autobarn do gates brand fan/alt/ps belts. If you are after OE parts in Sth Bris area then nissan moorooka have a parts department on Boundary Rd in near rocklea.

sounds like a split CV boot- driveline shop will replace it.

There's a place I go to in coorparoo (down the road from me) who have done some good stuff - they built me some custom driveshafts for my T12 bluebird using Evo shafts and larger cages- was good quality, seems to know what fits GTR off the top of his head too. I'll look them up for you if you like. Where're you located? I also have spare CV internals but would have to check they'd fit the application. Are you sure you need to replace the actual joint?

Assuming you have all the right method up to the degree bit, the final torque for is 108-127 Nm (80-93 ft lb). This is on a GtiR R but assuming it's the same (torque to 59N-m, then 108-118 N-m, back them all off completely, 36-42N-m followed by final turn of 90-95 degrees). Use light engine oil for lube rather than moly lube (I've heard moly lube is effective enough to require a reduction of 10% in torque for stock head bolts)

Except for the fact there's a vacuum line (from after the throttles) to the top of the bov which would suck it open unless the spring held it shut. the factory spring tension is soft enough to allow a small leak at idle.

You bed them in properly?

hey dude, I'll make you one- stainless and tig welded if you need. cost materials only. If you're interested give me a yell on 0403 486 876, I'm, in coorparoo. Cheers Andrew

Got stock GTR dumps and front pipe if that's any help- Andrew 0403 486 876 (i'm in coorparoo)

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Precision Shims Australia- 03 9723 0199 www.precisionshims.com.au