doo doo

speedo drive comes off the transfer case not the box, I assume they're the same for all 32's also.

The 'speed warning' unit which looks like a fuse is interchangeable between speedos so you can keep your original cluster. Still don't know if it supplies speed info for ECU or if it's just a limiter warning or power steering/hicas input. If it's jiggered it might be doing something funny to your attessa at 100kph, but check the speedo cable first. After the G sensor of course

bump

Certainly!

Yeah it looks like the ECU gets the vehicle speed from the speedo (for speed limiter etc) but it also looks like the ECU only supplies the ETS (attessa) with throttle signal and engine RPM, I guess the ABS sensors would be providing the speed for the ETS computer. If you end up needing another speedo with speed sensor let me know, i've a spare.

Stock ones shouldn't be ground down, you take away the .02mm hardened layer (at least this is for RB shims, which are direct bucket and shim actuation) My stock shims on the RB had mushrooming after about 120,000 kays. You would have to check with someone about the SR having the different valve actuation design, different shims.

Your gonna love the price form nissan, plus they are case hardened to .02mm and can't be ground down at all. Call precision shims australia (precisionshims.com.au) 03 9723 0199 as he has shims ready to go, in increments of .02 and case hardened to .2mm so you can rub them back to required tolerance- if my memory srerves me correctly- if you call he'll sort you out for info. Plus they're a much more realistic price.

Correct

Yeah I got a spare plate thing, don't know how I ended up with it- you can have it for nada if you want to come ands pick it up. In Fairfield, give me a yell on 0403 486 876

Hi all As stated above, asking 900 bucks brand new, never been used, no longer needed. Bris northside.

Hi all, As stated above, asking 900 bucks. Is brand new, never been used and no longer needed. Located in Bris but will post at buyers expense.

the gauge going up to 10 in your driving scenario is not normal, some engagement of the system is though. I would also be checking the G sensor for being loose or previously modified in anyway. The AWD doesn't 'slip' as the wheels are going the same speed, only time there's a difference in speed is when you have wheelspin, so you don't need to worry that it's wearing out the system. I would imagine that any noise associated with it's operation is old bearings taking the load of the hydraulic action against the transfer case clutch pack when system engages, or possibly the hydraulic pump itself (which shouldn't be that loud anyway)

Are you in Brisbane? Would you like a hand checking it out?

Nissan special power steering fluid is what the manual says. There's a fluids link at the top of this section that has more info (page 2 has a post near the bottom discussing the different viscosity required for attessa)

power steering fluid.

PM sent

The same bolt on the R32 is torqued to 88-108Nm, but uses the same bolt inner and outer whereas the R33 uses two on the inner.

Good quality 12 point socket will be smaller outer diameter and should fit.

Vacuum lines for clutch master cylinder and brake booster.

Factory settings for factory nuts- Head to manifold- 18-24 Nm Manifold to turbo and turbo to dump- 23-29 Nm Don't forget to use an anti seize heat resistant compound.

Take off the idle control unit and tubing first

I would also add don't forget to fishmouth the tube where the sleeve is welded in so you don't get a heat affected zone all in one tension/compression plane. If 4130 is welded stress relieving would be beneficial, even for 3mm thick tube IMO (plus using 4130 filler rod or oxweld #32 rod)

My view on threads is that machined threads are quite a bad design- they are weak as they act as a stress raiser. Rolled threads (ie, male rose joints) are much stronger as the metal (usually heat treated) is compressed and the groove is not a sharp cut. In a suspension application that you want to not have fail this is somewhere I would only use quality rolled threads in this application. I would make an exception if the part was lathe cut on a large diameter (larger than any available die) with enough thread engagement to spread the load, and with the design of the part putting the thread outside the main load-bearing diameter. Also if you use 4130, 4140 or 4340 they are harder steels and much more notch sensitive, you need to take even more care to eliminate stress raisers from the design. I've heard mostly that stainless on teflon lined bearings are best for auto application- also heard that with the teflon ones it's preferable not to use rubber seals. I think you'll find that most race car series rod ends are imperial in measurement. Here's a (place down the road from me) website- www.sesgroup.com.au - there's a list of what sort of load rating each size has. (the race car series are stainless on teflon, and male threaded)

Just out of curiosity, why do you think a female thread is better? Is there a supplier for race quality spherical rod ends in mackay?

I posted a crank through aussie post, it's about 21 kgs when wrapped- the very nice guy at the post office made an exception for me, don't see why it shouldn't be the same for anyone else.