doo doo

Possibly interested in the autronic, if it's still available could you send me a list of the sensors it comes with and what sort of map sensor too please, cheers

Yeah I could do that for you, won't charge too much either. Give me a yell if you're interested. Andrew- 0403 486 876.

Ooops, yes.

Hi Yogi I'm making 530 rwhp with 044 pump and 700cc injectors and 18psi, motec M600. If I want more I will need to upgrade both injectors and pump.

Have you loosened the pivot bolt for the PS unit? From memory it's 14mm and it goes through the space in the pulley itself, so you might need to rotate the pulley to line it up.

This is pretty common as the bolt hole for the smallest 6mm bolt is quite large- you just need to make sure you have enough sealant in that area and that the pump is positioned correctly for the hole to not overlap the water passage. I also had this problem but now rectified have had no issues.

Pitman puller, If you can get one in the right size. Gear puller will most likely require removal of cooler, radiator and condensor to fit. Or if you remove these you could have room to drill and tap 2 new holes.

Hey Mattis you're in caboolture- I've got cobalt drill set so if you're stuck let me know and I'll pop up and help you out.

Yeah i wasn't sure but studs do have an internal hex drive too, but it's 5 or 6mm. If they're head bolts (then the head is still on) then I might also add that you shouldn't remove each one one at a time, but back them off half a turn each in the reverse order of the tightening sequence. This way you won't potentially warp the alloy head (likewise with studs anyway). In the case of them being bolts you could try a rattle gun. If you need oversize you could also try imperial for a small increment of size increase (eg 7/16ths is about 11.1mm) and smack in in with a hammer as suggested, you won't be using the bolt again so don't worry too much. If you drill the top off the bolt off this will also work. If it is a bolt and not a stud. Maybe post a pic so it's clear.

Have you tried two nuts? Screw them tightly them together on the stud and unscrew using the bottom nut. You shouldn't be torquing the studs in by the way, just nippng them down slightly with the allen key is sufficient. Make sure you have clean clean threads (use a cleaning tap and make sure there's absolutely no crap in the hole, an air gun with a tube reaching down to the bottom of the hole will do this) before reinstalling studs. If you're not already doing this of course.

give me a call on 0403 486 876, Andrew

+1 taking it too your nearest suspension shop, rattle gun take 10 seconds- you shouldn't take the nut off without compressing the springs in case the stored spring energy which is now suddenly released imbeds the strut top into your skull.

I might be able to help with the pipework, how long would you need it for?

So you're trying to take the top nut off without compressing the springs?

No probs, got a whole heap of stainless sheet sitting here looking to be made into something

I'll do one for you Jase

i guess if your running in RWD and the attessa system isn't operating then it shouldn't matter if there isn't fluid in it.

Are they just leaking out the o-rings? Have you had them checked by an injector place/tune shop to see if the injectors are actually stuffed? Very easy to have non standard injectors, but you do need tuning options if you go larger than stock. (you can get 700cc sards for 200 each brand new btw-so I wouldn't be looking at the nissan special price option.) If you want to replace with stockers then look around the sau parts recyclers (like nisswreck) or for sale forums and you might find some. Make sure they're cleaned and flow checked, also get new rubbers. Are you looking to make more power in the future?

How much 'rear end' are you wanting to change? The WRX runs mcpherson strut suspension in the rear and s14/skylines all run double wishbone/four bar link suspension in the rear. These are really not interchangeable (do a google search on each one) The nissan pulsar GTiR actually runs something very similar to the WRX in the rear end, but i imagine STi gear would be a lot simpler to fit, not sure of the strength of the GTiR gear. (dare I say it's bound to be stronger than standard wrx gear?) If it's just CV's and driveshafts you want to beef up then you could ask a driveshaft fabrication place to do some custom items for you, much easier to fit back into place. I did this with my custom AWD Bluebird (which ran a very similar rear end to yours) and they ended up using Lancer Evo driveshafts and custom cups/cages, and were very strong. (And 400 bucks. And direct replacement fit.) Don't know about the diff, but you might also look into seeing if an evo diff could be fitted also, I understand Evo drivelines are pretty tough, and I only imagine that it would be easier than fitting skyline gear as it has a much more similar suspension platform. You might still be able to fit parts of the skyline platform to your rex, might not be the easiest option though. Hope this is helpful.

The pump does turn off once it's reached a certain pressure in bleed mode (about 10 on the in- dash gauge in my car). It will start again once the pressure has dropped. It will also shut itself off after about 10 seconds (I think) of continual running to protect itself from burning out as it's not meant to run continuously. However, my 4WD light doesn't come on in bleed mode (R32 GTR) so check your attessa computer (in the boot parcel shelf?) to see if it's flashing any codes.

I have done this swap before without removing the turbos but you need to remove the front inlet snout of the rear turbo and the heat shield off the front turbo. Got some pics here with the head and turbos sitting on my bench. It's a really tight fit between the comp housing and dump but with some maneuvering it's possible. If it's too tight you can undo the nuts (but not completely) for the rear turbo to give it some room to move but it shouldn't need to come off. (putting aftermarket dumps back on is easier). Hope this is helpful.

I have a set in exactly the same condition, if interested give me a yell.

pm'd

Know a guy in Albany Ck, used to own Brisbane Tuning and Turbo, now retired but works out of home garage, knows skyline V well. Let me know if you'd like contact details. There's also Mercury Motorsport in Newmarket and I'm sure a few more will be recommended.

Long breaker bar with long pipe over it to lengthen it more- have the car in 4th gear and someone with their foot on the brake while you lever it.