doo doo

sure- pm me if you like.

What diagnoses did you get after following the troubleshooting flow chart?

Mate if you just want some flanges welded I can do that for you at home- tig welded, cost sod-all- i'm in fairfield There's an exhaust shop on Deshon street (cnr longlands st) in east brisbane that's OK too, it's close at least.

You'll need to check with Vic transport for modification guidelines regarding engine swaps to ensure you meet the necessary requirements (although this one shouldn't be a problem). If you're not already I suggest you also become a member here- www.antrx.com

If it's anything like the RB26 then if you get your front caps in the right position -they can only go on one way due to the cam seal and they'll be stamped with E1 (exhaust) or I1 (inlet) the rest follow suit with orientation and order.

Alloy or steel?

let us know if you can't open this in JPEG and i'll upload it in PDF

Do you have the troubleshooting procedure for that code error from the workshop manual?

If you've got a torque wrench then factory spec is 23-29 N-ms or 17-23 ft/lbs. If you don't then other things that have a similar tightening torque to give you an idea of how tight are the spark plugs and the oil sump plug.

You can work out the cam shaft caps order by looking at the front caps, the ones that also house the cam front seals. As you've seen they have an 'I1' for inlet and an 'E1' for exhaust, the rest follow down the head in numerical order (E2, E3 etc and I2, I3 etc) in the same orientation as the front cap (ie the number is the same way around). If you are on the inlet side with the front of the head to your left the numbers will ascend from left to right for both exhaust and inlet and they will be the right way up on both exhaust and inlet, so yes, you're on the right track- I have a head apart lon my bench at the mo so if you want some pics let me know. The buckets should all be the same thickness so no probs there. With the shims, as you've measured them (to .01mm minimum?) you'll now need assemble the cams and measure clearance between the cam and the top of the shim, only then will you know if you need to change shim sizes (when doing up the cam caps go in small increments distributed evenly down the shaft to avoid tilting it and having it 'wedge' in). If you have a workshop manual this will tell you how, you'll need 2 (quality) feeler gauges (the ones with the bent end might be more helpful) to measure this gap for every valve. If you need this process posted up let us know.

if it's your rings the I've been told the comp would come back up more than that, almost back to normal. Leak down test time for diagnoses.

Can be done without removing turbos, removing front intake of rear turbo is possibly required so the front dump can actually come out. Yes stock dumps flow power no probs but i found a better boost response even from stock turbos with better flowing dumps and front pipe and was worth the effort to have extra push between 3000 and 4000rpm.

You can and it's quite painful and can be time consuming. Have another car handy to allow you to drive to the tool shop to get the right tool you don't happen to have. I found a 13mm crescent wrench very handy, and long extension is needed for the dump to front pipe bolts. You need to get under the car as well as in through the top, take the bonnet off it makes it a bit easier.

I'm currently running a single plate organic (custom built by a racing shop in sydney) on my GTR. 400kw atw and does not slip. Been on for a year at that power level and yet to have any issues. I get them through my mechanic here in brissy, pull type on a GTR is $1350 and $1250 for a pull type. If this sort of set up interests you send me a PM and I'll see if I can organise one for you. Andrew

Where are you located?

It's the boost bleed return from the boost solenoid. Keeps the whole system enclosed, plumb it back anywhere between afm's and turbo. Or if you're running a ECB and you're not using the factory solenoid it won't matter.

Green badged piece(series 1 R33) 25's use same plug as RB26, and yes I made mine stretch over the stock rubber without too much drama, the rubber is quite soft. They're overall physically a bit bigger and I still had to use an extra piece of 3'' bend to clear the power steering res. As mentioned the advantage of the 25's is the range of resolution for tuning- the stock one's (RB26) run out of resolution around the 300rwkw mark. If you're not making more than this I wouldn't imagine there's much point going to the effort as you'll also need to retune for the different afm's. I think the nismo option is a good one as they'll fit stock with enough resolution for at least 400rwkw- it's a fairly costly option but you'd have brand new afm's which is a plus.

I wouldn't actually expect him to front up with a new or replacement bellhousing but what he has done has devalued the car even if it is welded up, and it's something that shouldn't have been done to start with if he'd had any idea what to do. The next place you go should be able to advise you on this, depends on the size and location of the hole. I would get a quote from a wreckers for replacement bellhousing (and factor in labour to change it over) so you have an idea of possible cost he has unnecessarily incurred.

I think you really need to get it out if that shop asap, if he wants to charge you for the work done up to the hole cutting bit then he should also then pay up for a replacement bell housing. I wouldn't be asking him to swap bellhousings over either. If he's not up for paying for a replacement bellhousing then I don't see why he should ask you to pay for his lack of expertise.

yeah even if "the clutch and pressure plate were grabbing" you can still take the pivot out of the clutch fork to slip off the box. Make sure you don't get a bill and I would be asking him to provide a replacement bell housing too (making sure it's a pull clutch type). post up your progress

That's quite amazing, I'm so sorry.

just had the transfer case off the R32 GTR and it's completely sealed from the gearbox. There is a hole in the back of the box but it goes into the space between the box and the transfer case where the g'box oil lubricates the driveshaft connection in to the transfer case oil pump. This space is still sealed from the transfer case itself. Here's a pic of the plate that separates the case from the box. The top hole has a seal and is for the striking rod, the one below has the oil pump for the transfer on the other side and the driveshaft from the box goes in here, the other is for the front drive shaft. hope this helps

I'll give you a hand if you want to do them yourself, back in town next week if you want to wait till then.

Yeah be happy to Jase, sorry haven't been around- I'm currently in Canada till 22nd this month- will give you a yell when I get back.

Does it also happen in 2nd gear? You won't usually produce the same condition in normal driving of backing off in 2nd but try it and see if it's the same deal. The indent on the striking rod for 2nd is the same one for 4th and reverse. If you get the same sort of result then it might be related to the ball not locking into that indent properly. You can still take the ball mechanism out (with the previously mentioned precautions as the ball is probably not stuck) check it and clean it up and then see if the problem persists.