Legumis

If I can blow air against the flow direction, whats the fix? replacement?

my r33 has a slight pop when idling, which I've made my peace with. However, while sitting outside Nando's the otherday I noticed that I can bring on a much, much worse popping situation if I pump the brakes. The more I pump the brake, the worse the popping gets to the point that I think its going to stall and I stop. The engine recovers after a few seconds to resume its "normal" idle shenannigans. While inducing this over-pop, the revs seem to sit around normal warm-idle (650rpm for me) and don't drop. Anyone know why this is? I have my suspicions about the electrical system, particularly in relation to the plugs and coils, but I'm a noob so, yeah.

State houses might as well be.

it was already there; it didn't fall from his vehicle. I'd slowed right down to about 50km/h but he would have hit it at about 70-80. It was slightly bent, like about a 70 degree angle, so it was visible from a distance. And, cos of the shape I guess, the thing just took off when he went over, caught in his slipstream, etc. I'm not fussed about who's to blame, nor do I care about the insurance since (I'm hoping) a pro repair would be less than my $500 excess. Also don't wanna lose my Rating 1 over a scratch. I'm mainly worried that the scrape will rust over or cause the surrounding paint to lift.

and just hope it ain't the ram

Had the car about 3 weeks now and hadn't got around to washing it at all. Plus, it hadn't been washed properly since import so this thing was pretty grubby. So I spent about 4 hours on Saturday washing, polishing and sealing my car. Used the Autoglym range of products to get it looking pretty damn shiny. Mirror effect and everything (See pic). Was proud. Took it out today to go to the mall with the missus. On the way back some jackface flicks a piece of sheet-metal off the road. It bounces off the car behind him before flicking into my lane hitting the front and bonnet. Put a metal-deep gouge in the paint about half the size of a 5cent piece, as well as a few other scrapes. As soon as I got home I washed off the area and repolished and sealed it. Most of the scrapes are faint to the point you'd have to know they're there to see them. But obviously the gouge isn't so easily covered. Any tips or advice as to how I can make this thing go away and get it back to nice'n'shiny? Bonnet before:

lol, I'm at the Springvale/Burwood intersection and hear this racket...though it was a Harley or something.... then this comes ripping past me (I was in the black r33) made me lol

when in safe mode (or running normal WITHOUT video drivers) you'll be defaulted to 640x480, 8-bit, which looks exactly as you described it: busted picture and large, distorted icon placement. This is normal under this situation. SFC (Sys File Checker) should have worked from the Run line but you may have to run it from CMD if and when you get the chance. That way you'll see what errors come up. When running from Run... , if an error occurs (or the command halts for any reason) you'll never see it as it blinks up so fast then closes. If the driver reinstall still doesn't fix, then you may simply have a screwed card OR the problem is unrelated. The last time one of my PC's had this type of problem (continual BSOD and reboots), the RAM was completely fragged. It showed up as errors for other systems though (first the sound got distorted, then video). I only figured out it was the RAM when my Windows reinstall went through normally (or appeared to be normal) but several files were never installed due to them being dropped by RAM. Checked the RAM, every single block was dead. How the PC even started was a mystery.

ok, I read your edit. If Windows says your video driver is toast, then it probably is. Even if it isn't actually toast, Windows thinks it is which will cause it to crash. This would explain why its able to boot in safe without crashing (Windows won't be loading the nVidia driver, just a basic one). Easy fix though. Boot in safe and uninstall the nVidia drivers. The best place to do this would be Add/Remove programs (if the drivers were installed with some sort of nVidia video management package). If nothing is in Add/Remove, fire up Device Manager and uninstall the 'Display Adapter' drivers (just right-click the device and choose Uninstall from the list). You'll probably need to reboot at this point. From here, you could probably survive a normal boot and reinstall your video drivers. I'd do it from the CD that came with the card, if you still have it, then update them first chance you get from: http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_169.21_whql.html Other than that, you could try Omega drivers. They're better on ATi cards that nVidia ones, but you'll get a little more functionality and customisation from your card (the ATi driver lets you literally set your BUS, GPU and memory speeds, for example). Omega can be downloaded from http://www.omegadrivers.net/ Also, maybe update your mainboard drivers while you're at it.

Boot it in safe mode. Click Start>Run... and type MSCONFIG Click the Startup tab and untick everything. Reboot in normal mode and see what happens. If it still fails, reboot in Safe then: Click Start>Run... and type SFC /SCANNOW Then reboot again in normal. If it still fails after this, you're *probably* ok software wise (assuming these rolled-back drivers your using aren't causing memory conflicts; I'd actually get all the latest drivers rather than use older ones). Also, if you do get a BSOD, get the error code. It would help a lot.

black wingless r34 with a big 'got rice?' sticker on the back making all sort of automatic noise up the Burwood Highway

spotting SKYGAL's R34 almost every weekday in the carpark at work Also, a white R32 GTR, a silver R34, a silver R33, and another black R33.

lol, no. But she represents the Camry-driving demographic....and she's a hopeless driver. Which should explain why I'll never get her a Skyline. It would be up a tree within a week.

My wife drives a camry so...... +1 for the Camry hate

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/98-Ron-t211031.html

Anyone know of a place in VIC that will do this sort of thing? Toshi, get a franchise happening!! Drive-in, remap, drive-out faster.

yeah, I can't remember if the headlamp fuses are in the boot or engine bay either, but there is a fuse for the left unit and a fuse for the right unit. Can't remember if there is yet another fuse to take care of the hi-beam and low-beam specifically though. Check the engine bay fuse box (near the right headlight unit) or the boot fuse box (next to the battery). Both covers for the fuse boxes *should* be in english (they are on my 33, the drivers one isn't though)

ok, so it turns out both parklight bulbs were blown. Thats fine. Just had a 3" exhaust put on (up to and including a 3" hi-flow cat). Car seems to feel 'nicer', smoother. hard to describe but i'm sure you've all been there, etc. Only problem now is its backfiring. It only happens if I'm revving hard (something around the 5k - 6krpm range) and only as I clutch-in. Also, there is a faintest puff of blue/grey smoke coming out every now and then on idle (and presumably while driving). How do I fix this? Or is it the new steel just breaking itself in (but wtf! smoke?!)? I have new sparks to put in but I'll need to clean out the coilpack area (full of dust and crap) but can't get onto that until the weekend at least. Would an ECU reset help things out now or is that still unneccessary?

the hose seems pretty pliable but I think its been cut once before. There is a stand-off on the intake that looks like it would hold this hose clear but there isn't enough slack to get it up there. probably worth getting it replaced.

noticed this hose seems to be partially disconnected, or at least not as well connected as its other end. Is it ok the way it is or is it likely to come off under pressure?

I have the same idle-popping issue. Regarding plugs, I've read that the amount of resistance with power getting to the plug can change the ideal gap for your engine. So I guess a lengthy trial-and-error testing period is going to be the best way to get things the way you like them.

yeah, I checked there too but all I found was that the venting tube running off the battery had been snapped off (recently by the looks of it). *looks in immobiliser installer's direction*. A bit of glue should fix that though. I think I'll work backwards from the lamps. It possible that both bulbs just happen to be blown.

oh, I forgot to mention this in regards to the misfire (and in hindsight it would probably be very relevant). I didn't know which fuel to chuck in the tank so I basically filled it up with that Vortex stuff from Caltex. Is it possible I need to do something to the car (like reset the ECU) so it gets used to the new petrol? If an ECU reset is needed, what should I do to prevent buggering up the alarm/immobiliser? Like I said, the car was running smooth as anything when I checked it out. Its only been since I've been driving it that this misfire seems to have started.

So I get my R33 gtst home from the dealer and start to find a few things wrong that weren't noticeable before. This is most likely because I'm very noob when it comes to cars. That being said, I got the Skyline under the pretence that I'll be using it to 'learn' about engines and junk (this was really the only "legal" way I could get my wife to agree to the purchase). Anyway, I was wondering if I could get some input from Skyline community about A: what is causing the following problems and B: what I'll need to do to fix it. Issue 1: Engine misfiring at idle. The first issue is the missing. When the car is started cold and is left idling, I can hear a miss or two if I stand by the exhaust. This miss seems to get worse the longer the car is driven, to a point. I've looked about the forums already for some info and I guess that the spark-plugs and/or coils may need to be replaced. What tools will I need to remove the spark plugs (someone indicated in another post that may be different sizes of plug tools) and from where can I purchase them? (fyi - I've got the gear to get TO the coils/plugs, just nothing to remove the actual plugs with). If new coils are needed, where can I get a new set who's cost won't make the wife roll her eyes? Issue 2: park lamps are a no-go Completely do not work. Neither of them. I suspect the fuse, but I can't for the life of me find the park-lamp fuse at all. The translations of the internal fuse-box don't explicitly give me the info I need. The fuses in the engine bay seem to affect the individual left/right headlamp units anyway, not the park-lamps themselves. I'll need to know where this fuse or power/grounding lead is so I can check it. There are a few others but they're small jobs and I'll try fixing them myself before hassling the forums. Soz for the long post. Feel free to hand-ball me to an existing tread that I may have missed, though I've checked a lot of them already Hope someone can help.

I'm getting my R33 from Shane, picking it up on Saturday now. He didn't seem that stand-offish when I was on the lot, but I called him in advance then hassled him when he got on-site so he didn't get the chance Got the car on the road for a few hundred bucks over the ticket price and he did all the running around for me (took it in for the checks, took it into VicRoads for rego, etc). If you can engage the guy, he'll look after you, imo.