Lupes

YEAR: 1988 MODEL: HR31 GTS-X BODY TYPE: Coupe COLOUR: Red

Deposit taken. Might as well delete / move this now.

As far as I know yes it's original km's. It runs well, no misfiring etc etc. It's just running standard computer so rich as f**k basically. Anyway, I've taken a deposit on this now so it's gonna be gone next week.

No interior pics unfortunately. The date says 2004 or whatever on those pictures but the engine bay is the same bar a new battery. RB20DET 5-speed gearbox. No visible damage to chassis rails, and no rust either. I think there's a small spot of surface rust at the top of the LHF guard but that's all I've seen.

CASH ONLY Make/Model: HR31 2 door coupe Year: 1986 Kilometers: 72,xxx Transmission type: RB20DET manual Engine: RB20DET silvertop Colour: Black over grey Modifications: - R32 RB20DET silvertop - T3 VL turbo - Smallish FMIC with 2.5" approx piping through standard holes - Pod filter - Central locking - Stereo - Some random 17x7 and 17x8 5 spoke wheels with crap offset Roadworthy Certificate: N/A Registered: No Accident History: None that I am aware of Asking Price: $4k slightly neg Location: Southern suburbs, Adelaide Contact Details: Message me on 0430 285 717 (Josh) Other Comments: I bought this from Victoria around a month or two ago, but it's proving to be more hassle to me than it's worth, and my reason for selling is that I need something to get around in, I don't really have time to get this on the road. I'm gonna cut to the chase. This thing would suit someone who has time for a project. I don't, I still live at home, and haven't got something else to get around in. The car is NOT registered in SA, and does need to go through Regency to be registered. It needs basically to be complianced, that is have side intrusion beams, rear lap sash seatbelts and child restraints fitted. I was quoted roughly around $1,100 for this. I've had this on a hoist at my work, and as far as I can tell, to get through Regency it will need a driveshaft seal in the diff replaced, the rear subframe bushes replaced, extension housing seal on the gearbox replaced (probably speedo drive too), a couple of rack boots, 1 tyre and to have the gearbox crossmember modified to suit the auto bolts (was converted to manual) and possibly the turbo. If I was going to keep it I would try getting through without changing it but up to you. The good stuff is that it does drive quite well, it still feels pretty tight in respect to the km's. I've replaced the rear shocks since I've owned it as well. Interior is pretty schmick, seats aren't stained, floors are clean. Top of rear seats has faded a bit though due to sun. Body wise it's average. It's fairly straight, but the previous owner has tried to cover up scratches with touch up paint which stands out like dogs balls. If it were me, I would be going for a respray just because I'm a perfectionist, but you be the judge. There is no real fading in the paint, the main issue is the scratches / touch up paint. Oh, and it's got a sunroof. I'm not here to f**k people around. I got ripped off with this, and selling it for 4k I'm already losing 2.5k. I want you to know as much about this car as I do, I don't believe in selling dodgy shit, I know what I'm selling and price it accordingly. I've got my eye on another car at the moment, and I need this to be a quick sale so I can pay off my new car. Any other questions, ring / message me. I'm not on here all the time so my mobile is the best way to contact me. 0430 285 717 - Josh

The only problems I have heard of with swapping from mineral oil to synthetic oil is that some synthetic oils contain more detergents which remove carbon deposits from within the engine, which can potentially create leaks as the deposits can act as sealants to old gaskets etc. The other thing you need to think about is viscosity of course, because most synthetic oils are low-viscosity, running thin oil in an old engine will usually result in the engine burning off the oil between changes. If the engine has been looked after previously you shouldn't have much of a problem, and I would always choose a synthetic over mineral in a rebuilt engine (with an exception to the running-in period)

A couple of my mates have Preludes and both theirs do the same, I assume it's the factory setup.

Bit of a bump. Since it hasn't been explained properly, the viscosity of the oil is one of the most important factors when deciding which oil to use. Newer engines use thinner oils because they have much smaller tolerances than older higher mileage engines. As rings, bearings, lifters etc wear these tolerances become larger, and a thicker oil can be used to take up the gap and reduce wear that would be caused if a thinner oil was used. Viscosity is a little tricky to explain, but I'll try to make it easy. For an oil to be classed as say a 5W oil, it needs to be able to flow a certain amount at a low temperature. This first number is the oil's "cold" viscosity. The standards for measuring oil viscosity are determined by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) and all engine oils use the SAE's standards for measuring viscosity. The "W" suffix simply means that the oil is suitable for use during winter, meaning the oil will not become too thick under the lower overnight temperatures (usually only oils with a cold viscosity of 20 or lower will be classed for winter use, although I have seen a few 25W oils) The second number is the oil's "hot" viscosity. This is a little harder to explain. Multigrade oils contain polymers which react under heat, and actually expand as they become hot. This is what prevents multigrade oils from becoming too thin under hot conditions. That's all well and good, but what does this second number have to do with that? If you were to warm a monograde 40 weight oil to a high temperature (I say high temp because I'm not sure myself what temperature they measure the oil viscosity at), it would be thinner than a 15 weight oil at cool temperature. So, if you were to test a 15W-40 engine oil, it would have the viscosity of a monograde 15 weight oil at it's low temperature, and when warmed up it would have the viscosity of a monograde 40 weight oil at a high temperature. Hope that makes sense.

Bump. $750 ono.

Generally it's easier with the wheel off. Use a vernier caliper to measure, anything else is generally too inaccurate when you're checking rotor thickness.

Yeah it's good, it's where we get all out minimum thicknesses from at work when servicing cars etc. Generally speaking, most rotors can wear about 2mm from new before they're stuffed.

Minimum up front is 28mm, and minimum for the rear is 16mm. http://www.dba.com.au/2006/PDF_CATALOGUE/C...ue_01102008.pdf

Surely there would be a workshop around somewhere with a brake lathe. If not a brake-specific shop then a K-Mart Tyre and Auto or something like that. I don't live in Wollongong so can't help too much there. Machining is always a good idea when you change brake pads. It gives your pads a smooth even surface to bed into, instead of trying to bed them into grooves in the rotor created by your previous pads. Usually you won't get any warranty with your pads if you don't machine your rotors

Yeah nah, reducing width will increase stretch, not profile. Whoever told you that doesn't know what they are talking about. Agreed with others though, go for a 215/45 next time around. Or if you want a bit more stretch, 205/50. Stretched tyres are more inclined to understeer though. The sidewall needs to be able to flex to some extent to allow the tyre to maintain grip. Ideally I'd say next time around go back to 215/45 and run 15mm spacers instead of 25mm.

Bump. Make an offer, want them gone ASAP.

Located in South Australia.

I have thought using 5-stud hubs up front, but I would prefer to keep the car using 1 stud pattern, and not really keen on getting new 5-stud axles made up. The main question I would like to know is whether early R32 GTS-t's which used the 280x26 rotor are 2-pot or 4-pot. If they're 2-pot I'll just look for some R33 GTS calipers.

Hey fellas. Looking into brake upgrades for my R31, and I have read and heard lots of conflicting information. Over at the R31 Skyline Club, we have this table: My original plan was to use a early R32 GTS-t caliper with the later R33 GTS rotor. As far as I'm aware, this is not a problem. The reason I would prefer to use the R33 GTS rotor is because it is 4-stud as standard, which means no re-drilling, which means it's engineerable. I'm trying to keep as legal as possible, I want my car engineered as it's going to be my daily. Now, I have heard that the early R32 GTS-t calipers which suit the 280mm rotor aren't 4-pot? Is this correct? I was under the impression all R32 GTS-t calipers were 4-pot. Any help would be greatly appriciated. Cheers.

Maybe they're Volk's, I'm not sure, this is just what they were sold to me as Bump. Negotiable on price.

Got a set of Work wheels I'm parting with, as stated they are VS-Edition 3-piece. Fronts are 17x8 (unsure of offset) with two new 215/45 Maxxis tyres fitted about a month ago. Rears are 17x9 +44 I'm pretty sure, with 255/40 Bridgestone Potenza GIII's, around 50% tread left. They are multi-stud 4 and 5 x 114.3. Bit of rash here and there, nothing major. Reason for sale is because the previous owner lied to me about offsets, and I'm not too fond of running spacers. Asking $800 for the set. Contact by PM or reply in here. Cheers.

Good to hear mate.

No worries. That's what we do at work whenever we do new pads. Might not be the problem but definitely possible if you did it with a pry bar hehe.

How did you push the pistons back in the calipers? You should always open the bleed nipple and clamp the brake line when pushing the pistons back. This way fluid from inside the caliper comes out of the bleed nipple and doesn't go back through the lines, as having fluid being pushed back into the master can ruin seals inside it. Sounds like the master could be gone.

Chasing a pair of early R32 GTS-t 4 piston brake calipers to suit a 280x26mm rotor. I'm in SA, so really only keen on local stuff, but might buy interstate if the price is right.

Ok cool, cheers for that Didn't expect a power gain. I was thinking maybe the opposite could happen because of the size of the cannon itself.