Justlikemusic

Ah I think BCPR6ES 1.1mm will be next once I get the spark sorted out. If I get problems again I'll regap them down until I don't. Did my research on plugs, and I think your right. Don't think the car is going to push more than 200rwkw @ 10psi with mild mods. Picked up some VS commodore coils today and all the bits I need to make it work. Will install this all tomorrow... probably make the wiring harness for it tonight to make it easier tomorrow. Just need to work out which spade bit is which on the VS coil. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/357071-spade-connector-wiring/

I have some VS commodore coils and wanted to know what the two spade connectors under the bottom of the coil feed the coil (+/- etc) and which side is which. http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Coils/Stock_Replacement/8224_-_GM_Coil_Pack,_2_Tower_Style.aspx Looking to retrofit to my RB25. I probably should have bought the VN coil pack... but I figured a coilpack is a coilpack and if this works then I can always upgrade to flash MSD units later on. Anyway the ones I got are nearly brand new so should last good. I already made the mounting bracket for them near the pod filter and will do the wiring tommorow. I have a set of Eagle 9mm leads for it and a really bad urge to throw the silicone covered OEM coilpacks in the bin asap!

I think that fixes it... I now have a 52mm alloy radiator to help.

Changed plugs to BKR7E already last week and siliconed up the coilpacks. Made a little difference but I think the coils are stuffed. I think I'll go hunt down a VN commodore coil pack today and convert it. Then later spend $200 on the MSD unit to replace the VN one.

Still working out what I am doing about the coil pack business.... it's either VN wasted spark, replacement yellow jackets or some other form of 6 single coils. I have a spare Eagle 9mm lead kit so I have the leads ready to go. Its definately a spark issue for the power loss.

The R34 coolers are proven to make decent enough hp for what I want, and I've already swapped it over. Putting the stock airbox back in sorta defeats the purpose of putting a FMIC in to free up a path for colder air. I guess the best option is to put the stock airbox back on. Or at least use the stock snorkel and make a head shield for the pod. I removed the rubber from the top of the headlight/bottom of bonnet to help it a bit maybe but still far from ideal. I'm targetting the coil pack issue first though, 0-100km/h in 9 seconds is crap, my stock EB falcon with EL motor is faster!

I think you can test resistance, id like to know too since mine suck

Thought it turns on with the A/C only For a stock looking engine bay... ideally a heat shield on the pod and the most engine bay bling I have is a 52mm alloy radiator. Don't want to get picked on and a R33 RB25 @ 10psi is enough to keep me happy as a daily for now.

Im trying to keep the R34 SMIC there but somehow get the pod drawing in cold air only. Maybe sealing it and having a 3" piping with an inline fan and pipework from the front blowing through it will help. Going to be running 10psi so doubt I will need to upgrade the intercooler. Running a big alloy 52mm radiator now so shouldn't have any problems with heat. blind_elk: Im keeping the engine fan, it's just the air con fan I wanted to hook up. We have been having 35C days here and Im sure it's going to help. It's mounted near the pod side and might blow a bit of the hot air out of the engine bay which will decrease my underbonnet temps. I thought the CAI would help with the turbo intake heat, but what the motor sees is cooled by the SMIC so it wouldn't matter as much... anyway thats what I thought. I understand the principle of a CAI setup and the need for fresh air in a N/A engine and now understand it's the same with the turbo vehicles. Also has anyone made a template of a CAI shield for an R33? I guess I'll just get my cardboard out.

When I start my car and drive it around the block... it runs wicked. Then once it warms up it dies in the arse if I put my foot down or after 3000rpm+. I put in BKR7E's and siliconed the crap out of the coilpacks twice. Grounded the ignitor and it's still doing it. I have heard it could be wiring to the coil packs, a CAS... but figure it's the coil packs. I really want to convert to wasted spark setup with the MSD VN coils because the cheapest splitfires I found used were $350-400. Otherwise it is JJR ones. At 6000rpm+ it makes power again and pulls like a train. Anyway I thought the Pod sucking in the hot air in the engine bay would be another big reason for it running crap. Car is running 7psi boost with solenoid mod. Got a 10psi wastegate coming on the weekend probably. Maybe VN coil setup too if I get enough time.

1. Im looking at connecting the thermo fan under the bonnet up to run off a relay which I can fit so the fan comes on with my accessories on ignition. Where would be the best easiest ignition wire to run the relay from? 2. I have a pod filter in the engine bay, in a turbo car is this a problem like it is in an NA car from sucking in hot air? Or does the intercooler fix that?

Going to do a wasted spark conversion soon if I dont sell the R33.... coilpacks are giving me the shits, i dont want to spend $400 to get new JJR ones, so will just run a VN coil pack setup.... then if 10psi wastegate goes ok with it ill upgrade to MSD units. Don't know why everyone isn't doing this, surely the MSD VN V6 packs have more oomph then the RB ones!

Its still a cheap china turbo

Two holes drilled into the rad support and the CA18 radiator brackets clamp up there all nicely! - sorta.... on a 38C day it hasn't let me down yet. 50mm alloy one arrives tomorrow or next day... finally.

S2 front end upgrade looks wicked... I had it done on mine and now I look at S1 R33's and they look old =)

I had to change the power steering pump, harmonic balancer and pulley... at the same time I removed the radiator and the air con wasnt even hooked up properly from when I bought the car. I figured that I was going to put in a 50mm radiator (which is coming Mon/Tues) so I could get it back. I guess the 20kg's worth of weight maybe not worth it considering I can just up the boost a little more. I just don't want to cain it then all of a sudden sit at a three light change intersection and have it overheat. I guess with a good cooling system its not going to do that.... will it do anything damaging over time to the car though? (extra heat from a/c condensor) - or will the radiator regulate the heat totally?

Once I get my motorbike licence I will re-install air con... but until then I need to get to work and back quickly through traffic. I really should have picked an R32 though =/

Where did I say anything about removing the rear seats? I think removing the air conditioning does alot more than just free up weight. It lets the radiator get more airflow to and through it, the engine doesn't have to spin another belt and pulley (even though it's free wheeling when the air con is off). Also heat doesn't get onto the radiator on a 38C day @ 4pm coming home from work, sitting at a light intersection when its stop and start. I assume the 15kg figure for the HICAS is complete removal and S14 subframe fitment.

I want a reliable daily that is decent on fuel. I think I can achieve this with tuning/slight mods and weight reduction. Obviously mods like going to 10psi isn't going to help with fuel consumption but you need a bit of give and take =) Mods so far have been: K&N Filter (Have to fab some sort of CAI asap for this) 3" Catback w/ cannon at rear R34 SMIC - Going to wire up a waterproof 120mm computer style fan to drop temps even more Got a 50mm alloy Radiator in the post - already flushed radiator and water pump works well Going to wire in a relay for the 12v thermofan in front of the radiator to work with a switch Removed air con system from under the bonnet By next weekend will be wasted spark setup, Eagle 9mm leads and new plugs. Mobil semi-synthetic 15W-40 Then RB20 10psi wastegate SAFCII install and dyno tune I figure that will do it until I want to put a dump and high flow cat on. Maybe should do a gearbox fluid flush also.

Well im happy to sweat in the heat if it means my engine stays happier so I have just decided to go the full hog and remove excess weight from the R33. Unforunately my Alpine deck, monoblock and sub aren't going, but I will build a lighter box and fit it next to the battery so I have some boot room. I have done some searching and the best specs I could come up with were: 15kg for HICAS 25kg for Air con 10kg Sound deadening 3" catback? decat pipe for track What are the other things people are modding which is providing a weight reduction? If 1360kg's can be into the 1290kg area with these mods Im sure there is going to be a big difference in power there.

My R33 S1 runs a 0-100 in 9 seconds when warm... total different car when I first start it up let the oil circulate and put my foot down. I siliconed up the coilpacks, spark plugs are ok but when its warm it runs like crap. The pod is sucking air in from the engine bay and perhaps this could be fixed with an AFM swap? I know the RB30's had big problems with the AFM's. Maybe it will be another thing to check once I have done the wasted spark setup/new plugs.

Interesting to know since I just bought a 50mm one. $220 delivered and was exceptional service from Ying the owner. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/All-Aluminium-Radiator-Nissan-Skyline-R33-GTS-T-50mm-/130432829421?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e5e6707ed#ht_1488wt_698 What size is the standard one? (RB20/25 is about the same I think) - I have a S13 CA18 one in there at the moment and it's doing the job ok on these 38C days we are getting here in Perth

Thanks mate but I bought one today online for $220 delivered from Melbourne. Ying at http://www.yyautoparts.com.au/is a gem... she went to Australia post with the radiator today and got a quote of $150 to express it to me, and then went to fastway afterwards, sent it and sent me the tracking number. Same day, best service ever. I got the CA18 one in there and working for now to my amazement. Radiator I bought might be a cheap china one... but everyone knocked cheap china intercoolers and they do the job alot better than OEM.A $10 CA18 radiator bought at 10:30pm Monday night from SAUWA member... damn I love car club forums.Had a crack in it but I hi-temp araldite it closed and it seems ok for now...

Cant sell it, It holds too much sentimental value now =( I seen a nice red turbo manual one on gumtree for $7.5k ono, may be able to beat him down to 6.5k. Its pretty perfect for what I want, gets me to work and back and coppers dont even look at me much. I went 0-80km/h flat stick in leedy the other night and coppers pulled behind me (and I was in a 60 zone on-ramp to the 80km farmer freeway) and then just pulled up beside me and looked then dropped back and pulled off.... i thought i would be harassed in this car! Found a CA18 one for $10... going to go pick it up in a minute. I think they will fit, just top two mountings are different. Speaker wire will fix this to get to work. Cable ties will fix this from work lol.

CA18 silvia radiator fit an RB25 R33? The silvia guys are using CA18 radiators in their RB25 conversions with the RB25 hoses (if I read correctly) Radiator went pop today and im going to wait for a 52mm alloy one from Melbourne for $220. In the mean time if I can put a CA one in that will last three days I will be stoked. Otherwise I might take my old radiator into a shop tomorrow and see the damage... seems like the top cap has leaked, or around there. They might be able to fix it for cheap? Lol @ jumping on the peak hour bus with my radiator.