Justlikemusic

Wow what a difference $40 worth of intercooler and 5 minutes worth of boost solenoid modification makes... just took it for a spin around the block. I think higher psi lower in the rev range is better because I don't like revving the crap out of the engine, but I want the boost down low. I think I'm going to try set the skyline up for responsiveness and mid-rpm power.

I have a 3" catback with K&N pod stock everything and did this mod this morning. Fitted in about 20 minutes tops. I had no plastic guard on the front of the cooler. Im sure its just me, but the boost comes on alot smoother and I think maybe higher in the RPM range now. I guess things are going to lag a tiny bit more compared to a smaller intercooler and this is more of a mod to cool the air down rather than to boost HP. Once I go do the boost solenoid mod in a minute im sure the power will change a bit. Next mods are boost gauge, RB20 10psi actuator, split aftermarket dump, hi-flow cat, CAI and SAFCII. Then that will have to do me as I want the R33 as a daily... and my EB Fairmont is the car I want to make go really fast for weekends/wednesdays =)

Just bought a 33 GTS-T and it has a 4 rib balancer and 3 rib pump pulley... it had a 4 rib belt on it with one of the tracks hanging off the back of the pulley. It was pretty chewed out but held fine. A bit of noise at idle and turning but did the job. I couldn't find a 3 rib belt to replace it with today so I just bought a 4PK950 and fitted that. On the Bosch/Gates catalog it says it takes a 3PK850/855 and these belts are nowhere near fitting this thing. Car has no stamped date on it from what I can see.... its on a sticker saying it was complianced in 2004 and its a 1994 model. Weird thing it has 128k's on the clock and has a S2 front end on it and boot lid (I think S2 has keyhole cover thingy which mine does). It drives perfectly straight and is fine but the rad support had a tap before. Anyway I think I might have a S2 engine with a S1 p/steer pump or something vice versa, since the Bosch part number for the S2 R33 is 4PK something. I would appreciate it if someone could further clarify this for me. Thanks Nathan

Throttle body cleaner will strip your paint... Id use kenco degreaser only for best results... dont get that stuff on your hands either.. I soaked my fingers in that degreaser and it looked like my hands had no meat on them and shrivelled skin for two or three days

I remember they use to be really cheap at supercheap... like $30/40 each, now they are all above $60. DIY Milo tin catch can? lol

Cheers, I had a read of that in my searches... so lock bars and qualities are different? I seen some advertised for $155 new. It looks easy enough to make one. What are people paying for these bars?

Had my R33GTST for a few days now... wondered what the shuddering was in the rear end when it goes sideways or corners hard or goes over metal sections over bridges on the freeway. So I can remove the whole HICAS setup without needing to get a lock bar? Ill do more googling in the mean time.

Front pipe RB20 turbo actuator to run 10psi Boost gaugeR34 SMIC SAFC2 Then FMIC, boost controller and 12psi... I wouldn't go pushing stock 15 year old RB25 turbochargers

I got told the front wheel drive offset is different to the rear wheel drive offset? Yet the cars are +40 and +45/50?? and 5x114.3 Tyre places said it doubles the stress put on the studs with spacers because the centre bore cant locate the rim?

Im sure I could just buy the spacers from a wheel shop... it's only 10mm. Rims have 215/45's on them so I might be able to get away with 15mm spacers if the TX5 Rims are a +45 offset. Im sure the standard wheel stud will be ok with a 10mm spacer, not too sure about 15mm though. Was actually thinking of selling the car... auto gearbox is starting to give me the .........

Well went to put the front wheel on and it won't clear the caliper... I think they are a different offset. I am working from this info: (Car is 93 TX5 Ghia V6 2.5) "TX5 from 4/92....PCD is 5/114.3, offset is 35 and centre bore is 67" another site: "TELSTAR 1988 - ON 5 X 114.3 my own measurements offset +45 to 50 center bore 70" Would a 10mm spacer get me out of trouble (yes I understand it will get me into trouble too...) I just bought these wheel nuts for $60 and now im not going to have a car to put them on. If a spacer will do the trick then I would rather do that then spend $160 on some used tyres... need rear tyres asap, especially with the weekend coming up.

Got some from Ben at Barbagallo Tyres for $60... needed them asap =( Richards Tyrepower wanted $70. Thanks for your help guys. Will need some for the Telstar probably so I'll keep Taleb in mind.

Thanks mate ill try get there before work now

Where is the cheapest place to buy 12x1.25 nuts - need long skinny ones (allen key type) as I want to put the starcorp 3 piece 17's I have on my 93 telstar tx5 v6 onto my R33. Just bought the R33 yesterday so driving around on bald tyres has to be rectified asap because I dont want a yellow sticker. I work in Malaga and can swing past Balcatta easily at 8am in the morning. Not looking to spend alot, since I can just get $150 worth of used tyres on the stock rims put on.

I just got a GTS-T 2 days ago with 127k's on it... I thought it was horrible being auto but it's good in peak hour traffic everyday... it has a catback 3" with rice cannon out the back and Apexi pod filter. Turbo timer and rest is stock. I was thinking of going with an R34 SMIC, SAFC2, RB20 actuator for 10psi and later on a 3" dump and hi flow cat as these mods aren't very expensive... but not really sure of the difference this is going to make to the car and whether I will still be satisfied. (I have an EB falcon project car with an EL engine ready to take a T04)... I'd really like alot more torque off the line, seems like the engine is really relying on the turbo to do anything. Can't even spin the wheels off the line.

Thanks for the help. Might just leave it until I can afford a larger turbo. I pretty much have 10% more than the amount for everything I need including pricing on a cheap used turbo, but a $1000 new one is out of my range right at the moment. I really don't want to go with a chinese turbo for $500 because I have read many hours on the net of them being crap and falling apart. However at the same time have seen so many setups with the Monsta turbos which are chinese too, all the same I guess. I know the Chinese have different metal gradings, and standards etc, but in subwoofers that doesn't matter as much as it does with a turbo bolted to my precious engine!

I think the reason for wanting to go that way was quick spool and I make more use of the falcon's low down torque than I do revs. Also it has a T3 flange so after I spent the time making the manifold and running IC piping and such I could upgrade to a larger one. Wouldn't the wastegate correctly sized vent that exhaust pressure away from the turbo though? That's why I asked the question in regards to the compressor housing and how it relates to cfm/intake amount. Cheapest turbo I could find for this sucker would be about $500 used for a Garrett or cheap China.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/16408415/How-to-...lt-on-a-RB25DET Timing belt!!! Costly service... get it done. At the same time might as well do cams and adjustable cam sprockets

Lies, it's perfect for my falcon lol .82/1.06 (or around that) is what the turbo 4L guys are using... on a 2.5L a .82 would be laggy even... but the nissan motors rev nicely so would make good high hp

I think I might have worked it out myself... the smaller turbo on a larger motor will just have to work harder to produce X amount of boost for that engine. And the turbo is rated on HP. So in theory with a large enough wastegate it shouldn't be an exhaust restriction running a smaller turbo, and running 4psi boost should be safe... but then at higher revs out of the map, the boost will go down? ugh, wanting to put an RB20 turbo onto a falcon 4L since it's T3 flanged and $100. Will upgrade it later after I spend the rest of the money getting the rest of the kit.

Anyone know what the maximum flow in CFM the standard turbo (RB20/RB25 T3) is?

Why are you guys still going to the pits? Don't you know private workshops do pit inspections now? I had my car passed with alot of stuff not even working like horn window squirters and other things lol... "we like to help people out". Do some research and never go to a DPI site EVER AGAIN. It's so easy to get a car over the pits now it's not funny... might be different for a modified car as my car is N/A modded so you can't even tell the difference from standard from the engine bay really. Just looks nicely dressed up.

Decat with fake cat shroud ftw.

I just paid $375 for mine.... good card. Well worth the money. I got the one with the Zalman fan/heatsink OC'd.

Agreed.