Justlikemusic

Had to get the car towed. It will idle, but not be put under load or it will want to backfire and stall... I cant see me doing anything other than rolling in idle in it. Will try putting standard coilpacks in during the week again, but I'm sure it's something else.... is a vacuum leak going to be so severe to make it not even idle or be able to do 10km/h? I searched the piping for leaks, maybe I should pressure test it somehow.

Well I replced the igniter first up, then I just bought a replacement AFM today, still no change. So $300 later I have two good spares at least for future problems... Going to buy coilpacks and standard loom on Tuesday and try again. Probably will just get JJR ones for $400 i think. Or yellow jackets...

I am thinking it could be the spark plugs causing some of the issue... however something is causing them to foul up. Car will idle like it has a lumpy cam and occasional backfire... I started the car without the AFM connected and it run. I had the car running with the AFM connected, then unplugged it and it stalled. I figure this means it's ok? Will be replacing plugs today and checking. I had them very clean when I started it up after I tested the coils/plugs/loom. They got dirty quick. I figured all the plugs are getting black and they are firing on all cylinders so it has to be some sensor that's screwed. Will be checking all hoses for leaks and taking a good look today before having to shell out for splitfires on tuesday.

Alot of people complain about the R33's being able to spin out easily.... I find it's pretty hard for the R33 to lose rear end grip compared to a silvia/180/R32 and drifts being hard to sustain in a lower powered R33 GTS-T. However I have noticed once the LSD kicks in properly and your laying down power on both wheels I am confident on taking the R33 sideways without much of spinning out. I guess it comes down to the driver. I have driven a TT Z32 and you can feel the weight of it. The poor 3L needs those turbos! I have alot less confidence in chucking that thing around compared to my R33... ALOT less. Weighing alot it would need full suspension, engine, hydraulic handbrake etc. And at the end of the day the VG30DETT is a prick of an engine to work on in a 300ZX engine bay. How many 33 drift cars do you see!!! They are all silvia/180/R32's! My 2c

So on a S1 Rb25DET you would bypass the ignitor and run the 6 wires directly to the VR/VS commodore coils? I did the conversion with commodore S2 coils on a S1 R33 and it has a rough idle... perhaps this is my issue. How do I know commodore coils have built in ignitors? The coil packs themselves? Or the DFI module that they sit on? Because I removed them off that plate.

Thread dig, but I have the same problem with my S1. Did you get it sorted? People have told me that I have blown my ignitor bridging wires 1/6, 2/5, 3/4.... Initially I didn't have 1 and 6 firing... but perhaps it was the pins I was using which clip into the bottom of the commodore series 2 (VR/VS/VT) coil packs. Now I have spark on all cylinders but just a Really Really rough idle. Put the original setup back in there and now it won't even idle. Turns over coughs and farts but won't idle. Going to put wasted spark setup back in there and troubleshoot from there since it was running at least.

Two bolts for shroud, two bolts for radiator top supports... bottom hose, flush coolant, remove top hose, remove radiator and replace. Took me about 20 minutes to remove the old one and replace. Looks fat and will give you so much better cooling potential. Very worthwhile upgrade in my opinion.... next is silicone hoses and better clamps. Also the radiator has nice strong alloy hose outlets, as opposed to crappy plastic ones that break in your hoses.

Put standard setup back in today and the car wont idle... cranks and sorta idles while im cranking, but as soon as I stop it idles for two seconds and stops...... I reckon the problem is the ground cable, at least that's what Im going to check next.

Nope only under boost. And I think you got it misunderstood.... the air con removal was more for the benefit of the car in general. Tyre wear, less weight on the front end, more air flow to the radiator. I never said it would make my car 'stop' over heating.

Thought MSD coils and Eagle 9mm leads would give a better spark, and cheaply cure my problem. While I've only so far used standard commodore coils... I will probably just buy some splitfires and see how they go.

VS Commodore coils into R33 RB25DET S1. I hacked the loom up so going to keep the loom I made and make a six pin plug after the ignitor. I think I might just get a set of splitfires to save my headaches of trying to diagnose why it's running like crap. For now tomorrow i will put it back like it was.

Car has spark on all six cylinders, but runs rough... unsure what would be causing this. Im wondering if the timing would be out now or something because the time on the spark.

All coils have spark but car runs like a POS... going to go buy another injector loom now and put the standard ones back in. Im thinking the problem will be timing or something... I understand what you mean with the 80% of the time bit... efi motors can be a bitch to diagnose. Was new plug and leads were good on my falcon. Coils all threw spark at the end of the leads.

Didn't know where to ask to borrow RB coils from and from all the reading I did I knew this was the problem. Was going to buy coils used and swap them over but thought I might as well just convert to wasted spark since the VR/VS coils are bigger and probably better than the skyline units.

Well I did ask in another thread, but this is critical to getting my car running and today I spent 1hr 40 minutes on two busses and walked 2km to get to work. The two pin plug on the RB25 near the ignitor has one white wire which is the coil +, it also has another Black/Pink wire which seems like it is in the coil pack loom. With a wasted spark setup this is obviously connecting cylinders 1 and 6 together... what does this wire do, and will it hurt it having it connected to both 1 and 6 coil power sense wires? Cylinders 2 and 5, 3 and 4 both had spark... and the car ran on four cylinders.. I will have to swap the coils around today and test to see whether it was the coil pack being faulty but I doubt it. I have also gotten better connectors which plug into the coilpacks snugly today too. Please I need some help with this one To repay I'll write a guide on MSD Commodore coils into R33 RB25DET S1.

Only going to be able to test the coil tomorrow. I'm hoping it's just a faulty coil... but I'd say it's going to be the spade connector fitting inside the coil. Perhaps the best way about doing this would be to measure the VN spade size and more importantly length and then just cut a piece of sheetmetal to size to fit.

So on the RB25DET R33 where does the Black/Pink wire which comes off the two pin plug go? I am getting no spark on the coil for cylinders 1 and 6.

I've stuck a VS commodore wasted spark setup there now, so going to have to custom make a heat shield/air box. I really like the look of the stock snorkel and I will probably incorporate this into my design. It's weird I always put pod filters on my cars, but my falcon just run like a pig on takeoff with the pod. Stuck the stock airbox back on and boom! wicked launches from the lights again.

Cool, I got the VS commodore coils in there today and my radiator all hooked up.... coils running pretty crap but next on the list is some cheap rims, 10psi and a date at collie =) Did you end up getting an RB20 for the VL?

Well I wired the coils and grounded them like you have in the pic. It's all fitted and it runs! Runs like crap but it starts at least... im sure the issue is with the spade connectors into the bottom of one of the coils. They sorta have to be jammed up in there and held in place while the glue sets. Needed a break, going to go at it again... will get pics up at work tomorrow. Would resetting the ECU be a good idea while doing this also? Also would running a relay from the main + terminal in the engine bay give the coils more power? Using the white wire to trigger the relay on? I assue this is just an accessories wire? (no multimeter on me here at the moment) And in regard to an RB25DET/R33 setup: The RB25DET/R33 setup has a two pin connector (Positive and Black/Pink wire) which connects to coil pack #6 and I6 coilpack trigger outlet on the loom. The only grounds in the setup were the three grounds from the coilpacks to the body - perhaps I will run these to a better ground also. I grounded the ignitor to the head where the standard coilpack loom grounded.

Air con was already not connected... I had to replace the power steering pump and harmonic balancer so I removed the rest of it. I knew I have to do the timing belt in the future too so re-install wouldn't be a problem. Half the air con hoses weren't even there when I bought the car. Plus I get regas for a $35 carton.

I have a GT3271 internal gate here in really good nick. Paid $100 for it... too bad I can't use it on the R33.... can you put a different compressor housing and wheel on it and do you guys stock these bits and pieces or is that a turbotech jobbie? Sorry for hijack -.-

Guys at work give me crap about driving a RICER. With new ones, then yes, they are great value for money for what you get compared to newer performance cars. However they are still big pieces of crap which weigh too much! I think I've really found the car of my choice in the R33 GTS-T. Braking and handling is beautiful and only upgrades I'd want is about 400hp, manual, seats/harness and suspension. I just finished rebuilding a EB Falcon with EL internals ready to turbo... bought an R33 and realized I was wasting my time with the EB... now dunno what to do with the EB... thinking about taking it to the motorplex to do burnouts with until the engine dies.

Im going to have to modify standard spades it seems because they dont fit.... tried wedging them in good too any wont go. So looking at the coilpack this way up.... (IMAGE1 - Coilpack) This is how it's wired? IMAGE2 (PAINT ONE) On the MSD site they say you don't have to ground the coilpack... it will be grounded to the body via metal mounting brackets on mine, I assume this will be sufficient.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/178522-vn-series-2-coilpacks-in-rb20det/page__p__3256226__hl__wasted__fromsearch__1#entry3256226 I think I got it sorted...... !!!