Wacky Dee

Bought a couple of these from one of the sellers on SAU about a year ago .. now the left bulb has turned from white to almost blue .. wtf ? Anyway, need to replace them but can't find anyone who stocks them in Sydney... The only seller on Ebay sells the phillips ones for $70 but I really doubt they are genuine ones as I was quoted $300 at a retail store (ordered in) for the Phillips D2R bulbs.. and anyway I'd like to replace them ASAP before I get pulled over and defected as I currently drive with one white and one BLUE headlight..

I didnt get a call but got an sms .. anyway call me if you want to come and have a look.

bump

Also I'll try to get some better shots when I wash the car - car sat outside for 2 days and looks shocking atm due to all the dirty rain.

swas for cold hard cash only ....or a very good condition corolla + cash To be fair I should point out that I've been crunching numbers all day and am about 90% certain that I won't (have to) sell the car unless someone makes an offer that's too hard to resist. Basically it boils down to the fact that selling the car right now is financially DUMB because it was bought on 5 years finance and I've had it for a bit less than 2.5 years. And anyone who has financed a car before knows the first 2 years or so you're only paying off the interest mainly. Now if I keep the car for another year or so large % of the repayments will be coming off the remaining principal so basically I'd be flushing down the toilet atleast $5-6k if I sold it now as opposed to say in 12 months (if at all). Feel free to look around, I'll bet anyone in the market for a 34 GTT will not find a better one in Sydney.

Need to free up some finances for my business. Car was bought from import dealer in 2008 for $24k and more than $10k has been spent on tasteful mods. INTERIOR: - all seats reupholstered with creme coloured leatherette with NISMO embroidery. Centre console and door inserts matching. - grey factory carpets removed and replaced with jet black carpets throughout - genuine NISMO mats front & back - all upholstering work done professionally - RaceTech gauges (blue leds) replacing the old factory ones for Voltage, Boost (PSI) and Water Temperature - GTR dash insert (charcoal) - dash cluster lights replaced with blue LEDs (matching the stereo and triple-gauges) AUDIO - front speakers and tweeters installed by FHRX studios - Dynamat in front doors - Active ported sub in the boot (120Watts from memory) strappped down securely and can be removed easily to free up space. - Kenwood CD headunit with USB input EXTERIOR - NISMO rear bar (not to be confused with the common Nissan Altia bar) *RARE* - IMPUL side skirts - factory front bar for practicality - 20% tinting all around - LED tail lights (spectacular at night) - LED boot lid lights - genuine XENON Hid lights (factory option) 3-way adjustable and HID parkers + NISMO eyelids - genuine NISMO front and side blinkers (charcoal/smoked) WHEELS AND BRAKES - 18 x 8.5" DTM wheels (charcoal with polished lip) - Maxxis flagship directional performance tyres - plenty of meat left - RDA slotted rotors - QFM HPX brake pads - wheels have some typical gutter rash (quoted $200 to fix) SUSPENSION - Bilstein (german made) suspension installed by HEASMANS with circlip grooves for height adjustability - Whiteline heavy duty sway bars - Whiteline springs (firm enough to provide good handling but not over the top) - new bump stops and all new bushes (Whiteline) - 4 wheel alignment done for performance handling EXHAUST - free flowing turbo-back system incl. - JustJap dump pipe - highflow cat - HKS Silent Power Cat-Back 3.5" system - very quiet exhaust, sounds nice in the cabin but does not attract unwanted attention ENGINE - stock turbo and all piping incl. factory intake and intercooler - Splitfire Coilpacks - 40mm dual core radiator and new fan clutch - all new belts (genuine Nissan belts) - TIMING BELT and water pump replaced first thing when the car was purchased in 2008 - factory ECU tuned to 12PSI by Japanese import specialist (260HP at the wheels) on a very safe tune (11:1 AFRs) - Greddy electronic boost controller (hi/low settings) - engine compression tested by Unigroup Engineering and came back very good on all cylinders (within 3PSI) ALARM AND IMMOBILISER - Autowatch Premium alarm and immobilizer system (Australian standards approved) - alarm system comes with built-in turbo timer which is more secure than stanadlone turbo timer - built in pager system (sends SMS if alarm triggered etc) Immobiliser can be activated via SMS etc. Can also be tracked via SIM card. - 2 x compact remotes for alarm system and central locking MISC ITEMS AND POINTS - very good japanese battery with visual indicator - engine oil replaced every 3000-5000Kms. Only MOTUL 300V and Royal Purple oil used (100% synthetic) - typical fuel economy of around 14l/100Kms with 80% stop and go traffic and 20% highway. Better economy possible with more highway driving. - LONG REGO, never a problem at rego time due to no obvious defects (ie. fmic, POD filter, loud exhaust/bov etc) - as much as I would have loved to take it to the track, this car has NEVER been tracked OR trashed (as it's my daily) - always garaged and no serious accidents (1 minor rear fender bender, which was repaired by insurance) - mature driver (30yo) - first owner in Australia. The car came completely STOCK standard from Japan (one business owner) - NO RATTLES (well one in the dash cluster but that's my fault and shall fix that) I'm available most days. Five Dock is just off Paramatta Rd (near the M4 exit). Call me to arrange an inspection. OFFERS ABOVE $21K ONLY. Please note I am seriously contemplating letting the car go so this is a genuine for sale thread however as I love this car I would like to keep it if possible. I still need to talk to my bank to see if I can get finances for my business without selling the car and if that works out, it may be off the market. I've already had a serious offer for $21,000 so annyone interested, please don't waste your or my time if you can't go higher - I won't let it go below $21k.

sorry didn't see the question before .. it's out of a 34 GTR dash cluster (vspec I think). I bought the whole cluster removed the silver panel and stuck it onto mine Tacky I know .. was going for a slightly diff look. Might just repaint it charcoal as well as the centre console bits that are tungsten right now.

hahaha +2 I was totally expecting some bright blue or red colour. now if you only stop midgets from jumping around your front seats in their dirty little working boots it might actually improve overall.. nah but seriously wash that front seat and the mats, looks like you work in the mines or something

wreckers

so by cutting up the top cover you're essentially allowing hot engine air to come in and not just cold outside air through the snorkel ? I seriously can't see the point of this. Then again maybe the air from the front section near the headlight isn't that hot

You will need to source a new climate control unit as well as the brackets that hold the entire thing in there. As for gauges ..forget the wiring, just get aftermarket 52mm gauges, they fit perfectly behind the triple gauge factory holder (once you've removed the factory gauges).

I used all of the above methods and can still see fine fracture marks and what looks like dried mosture on the INSIDE .. so nothing will fix them up from the outside. But they're not yellow at all ..just slightly faded in corners.

$200 active sub from jaycar .. 2cm thick mdf board and some straps from bunnings = enough doof doof for me. Who needs boot space

3-4k for a decent respray (outside only ..no engine bay)

sorry mate didn't mean to offend .. just judging it based on aestethic appeal. I used cheap gauges ($150 for the 3) and just wanted something that looked more modern that the crappy original ones. You have obviously gone in the other direction completely - ie. quality and usability over plain old 'looks'.

yeah proseat iirc ..there's another one as well, theyre just as good

had it done by a trimmer (front seats and inserts front and back) Did the backseats myself to save a bit of dough.. It's those leatherette (read vinyl) covers they had group buys for on SAU and they're always on ebay as well.

I agree on the silver gear/audio surrround .. did those before the interior (and dash) just couldn't be farked doing it again (redid the colour about 5 times until I found one I liked)

as has been mentioned already ..copper grease on the anti squeal shims. When I went from factory pads to QFM HP-X they were driving me insane .. as soon as they'd warm up, squealing everywhere..

yeah ok shocking was a bit harsh .. just looks a bit out of place as it loses the stock look. I'd prefer those cup mounts on a flat dash or pillar mount pods rather than 3 big clock-like gauges sticking out like that, but that's me. Just being pedantic .. I'm sure functionality wise it's way better / easier to read those gauges. As for the 2 tone .. yeah it's not everyones cup a tea Had to do it though because it was all scratched up after numerous audio installs etc. Here's a better shot though

that looks shocking ..sorry. 52mm ones fit perfectly inside the factory holder ..after lots of tinkering and trying to come up with a way to hold them in place I finally figured out that blu tack was the easiest solution (no movememnt and they're held solidly in place without any brackets)

forget the bleed valves they're hopeless and messy .... just take an empty coke bottle, cut the bottom off of it and lodge it firmly into the radiator opening. Poor coolant in and let the engine run for 10-20 minutes. You'll see a shitload of air come out as the coolan circulates through the engine and pushes the air out. As for draining the old coolant ... just drain from the radiator or bottom hose (with car not running of course) ...dilute with demnieralized/distilled water as many times as you can until you see clear water coming out only. Then add your coolant concentrate.

hm this is probably stupid .. but I haven't had my dose of stupid things to say today so here goes.. Are you sure the tyres are on the correct way ? The KU36 have an inside and outside wall and I'm thinking if you put them on the wrong way around ... I only mention this because I just read another guy's thread where he wasn't sure if he put his KU36s on the correct way.

my 34 has a notchy shifter (1st 2nd only) when cold and I've put that redline stuff (shockproof/smurfs blood) and I'm not sure it has improved anything... If you intend to be keeping the car for a while I'd say save up some dough and get the gearbox and synchros reconditioned for teh win.

I've lived in Sydney for 15 years and still haven't been to Taronga Zoo. Something about animals in captivity just doesn't do it for me..