JimX

Oil in your intake has nothing to do with your turbo, so yes.

Lwlux, what's VPW? And does that can come with all hoses, brackets, attachments etc or did you have to go and get that all separately?

I got my Apexi pod and S-AFC from Nengun last year. Brilliant service, the pod to fit an R33 was quite rare at the time (a lot more common now), hardly anyone in Australia had them. He did a lot of hunting around until he found one, and he kept me up to date with emails etc. The parts arrived in perfect condition, and I'll definitely buy through him again when I get some spare cash together Oh, and the pod worked out to be around $90 plus postage. Compare that price to what you see on some Australian websites! I forget the price of the S-AFC, but I think it was around $550. Both were well under $700 including postage anyway.

There is no synchro on reverse on any car I know of. There are probably exceptions but I don't know of them. So it's completely normal for it to crunch unless you're completely stopped.

How do you round a thread? If you mean stripped, then you will have to buy an oversized sump plug to replace it with. To pull the old one out just get a big pair of multigrips and pull. It will come out fairly easily if it is truly stripped.

Yeah if you are going to do a full respray then I'd get a GTR copy bar. Personally I think you'd save more money by finding a car the right colour in the first place. Finding a coloured one with similar condition/mods than a white one may cost a little more but not $5k more. It's often less.

I would say that if you drove your NA, unmodified Skyline like a taxi that you could easily get by with cheap mineral oil too.

Thanks Whatsisname, you're now my third independant source confirming what a "Type M" is

I understand what you are saying, and I am still doubtful about EVERYTHING because, well, you're the only person I've heard this from and you still haven't given me any "proof" of what you're telling me. Also, I have the bigger (Type M, if you want to call it that) bar. I have heard it referred to as the "front spoiler" bar also (not to be confused with the retractable spoiler). It has a bigger intercooler area and bigger holes in the sides for the brakes. If you actually have the smaller bar with smaller fmic area and no brake vents and you think it's "better", then I seriously think you should "downgrade" it

It's not pointless, it's what my EBC is graded in

I'm still not clear on a lot of the stuff you mentioned. The "larger" rear wing - is that the same that is on all series 2's or is it something different again? If that is your pic in your icon, your front bar does not look like a GTR's, it looks like mine as seen in my icon. But it's hard to tell, have you got a bigger/clearer pic? Going off what you've said, it seems like I've also got a "Type M", except I don't have side skirts (they could have been sold by a previous owner). I don't need to examine your car, I just need to figure out what's going on If you have any VIN numbers to indicate a special "Type M" that would be good, because AFAIK all the things you listed (except the ball bearing turbo which no one seems to know anything about) are just factory options. Maybe if you get all the options fitted it suddenly turns your car into a Type M. That would make sense.

I stand corrected! I thought 1 bar was 1 atmosphere but it's not. After some research I found that one bar is 0.9872 atmospheres. So now I have no idea what a "bar" actually is. Until now I thought it was the pressure of air at sea level. 15.95 psi (or thereabouts) it is. Edit: 1 bar appears to be a million dynes/cm².

Closer to 16.2psi.

If you have a set of bathroom scales, you can easily work it out yourself. You don't have to balance it on the scales or anything like that, just pick it up and get on the scales yourself. Record the number, then put the bar down and weigh just yourself. Take your weight away from the weight of you carrying the bar, and you have the weight of the bar to within 1kg. Simple

HOTR33, you're right about sources of information. But it's the simple fact that I've got my info from 2 separate independant sources that makes me inclined to believe what I was told. Also, you saying such things as "THe Type-M has different lower body parts, Chamelion Paint, a Duel Entry" do not do your story any favours, because it is very generalised and ambiguous. You also haven't said how to identify the Type M cars. There should be some sort of VIN or other identifaction to differentiate the Type M. As I said above, I am happy to listen to any evidence you have to prove otherwise, but given everything I have seen the other story is more convincing.

Well, you said you can't beat it, that implies that it's the best Oh well, my misunderstanding. Sorry 'bout that. One of my mates says that his semi-synth is the best as well, I wasn't just talking about this thread.

I can't understand why so many people are saying semi-synths are the best oils. Fair enough they may be good value, but the fact that they're semi-synth means they are inferior to the full synths. The point of a synthetic oil is it's more tolerant to high temperatures. If you blend this with a mineral oil you lose at least some of this high temperature tolerance.

HOTR33, I've got 2 sources that contradict what you say. That being Geoff Risbey and Import Motortrader. Maybe you should email both those people evidence of your "Type M". When they believe you and update their sites/mailing lists then I'll believe you too. Until then, I'm going to assume your info is incorrect.

Gotta be the linkages, if it's still in gear. The collar is engaged and driving the car so the box itself isn't dead, but you can't get out of gear because the linkages have snapped.

YZF-R1 Maniac, yeah I love it Not the fastest bike by a long shot, but it does me fine for commuting and weekend scratching. HOTR33, I can't figure out how you can say that Type M R33's have a hi-flowed turbo since all R33 GTS-t's are Type M. I don't know who your information source is but it's wrong. Click on the link I posted above for more info. As I said, what you said may apply to R32's but given the power output of both normal and Type M R32 GTS-t is the same, I highly doubt it. Geoff Risbey from Prestige Motorsport will back me up on everything I've said.

The problem with iridiums is they are prone to early failure despite their suggested 100k km lifetime. I've had one die on my motorcycle after only 15000km. Like, totally die, no spark at all. I bought a replacement, and asked the shop guy if this was common with iridiums, and he said yes it happens all the time because the electrode is so small. Carbon buildup kills them. The more you get to thrash your engine the longer they will last though because carbon builds up most in stop-start traffic. He said the platinums are much more durable in this regard. Also, I don't think you can re-gap the Iridiums. You can't lever off the central electrode anyway. You could tap down the external electrode but if you went too far it would be a bitch to pull back. I've left mine at the factory settings for both car and bike. I am not keen to go back to copper because with the iridiums I get better economy on the bike (consistently 10-15km more per tank, which is a lot when you only do 200km on a tankful) than out of the Denso copper plugs it had from new. I can only presume the same would apply on the car, so I will go for platinums if these iridiums give me any more trouble.

HOTR33, what you said on the most part applies to the R32, but not the R33. But afaik, there were no hi-flowed ball bearing turbos or different gear ratios, I'm pretty sure they were all the same on all turbo Skylines of each particular model (ie, all turbos on turbo models were the same for all R32's, R33's, etc *). The R32 GTS-t and GTS-t Type M have the exact same power which seems to support this argument. What's a "Duel Entry"? *Edit: excluding GTRs of course

The confusing thing about it all is that often the lower front bar and side skirts are referred to as "Type M" bar/skirts, but they were both options only. Therefore you could buy a new R33 Type M with a small front bar and no side skirts, and you could also buy a Type S (non turbo) with them on. Most people seemed to have opted for the lower front bar and side skirts only with the turbo versions (ie, people with more money to burn) so that the side skirts and lower bar are usually synonymous with "Type M". Sometimes the above also applies to the higher rear spoiler, though more often it's just referred to as the "series 2" spoiler. Which is also still confusing because it was also an option on the series 1. The turbo and upgraded brakes seem to be the only definitive "Type M" items on the GTS-t because they were standard and not options for the Type S. The confusion with the R33's seems to have stemmed from the fact that not all R32 GTS-t's were "Type M". There was some equipment differences in the bodykit and brakes, and many people think it carried over to the R33 series but it didn't. You can find more info on the names of each model variant and which equipment was standard or optional on all models from the Motor Traders Network, but even then it's missing some details like the sideskirts and retractable front spoiler options. Is the above enough to confuse the hell out of you?

Soulja, why are you here? You don't own a Skyline, you don't intend on owning one, you don't even seem to LIKE them, and you never have anything useful to say. And you then start throwing around meaningless phrases like "32 psi is possible" like you know what you're on about when you don't. So why exactly do you post in these forums? Btw what do you do for a living so that you can afford a 500hp car when you're only 17?

Overnight parking is safer than all-day parking at a train station on a weekday. 99% of the people parked at a train station will not be back until well after 3pm. So the thief gets in nice and early - say, half hour after the car is parked (that way the owner is almost certainly on a train into the city). He then has 6 hours or more to work on any security device the car has. Not that he needs that much time. My solution is to not take public transport anymore. I ride a motorcycle to work. If your car is parked somewhere overnight or on a weekend, the owner's arrival is much less predictable, therefore your car is generally safer (unless the thief has been tracking your movements and knows where you'll be at specific times).